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Suppressors Best way to clean heavily fouled TBAC can ?

#101
LR1845 said:
Did you put the cans directly in the US?
Did it effect your coating at all?
Click to expand...
If you scroll up you can see how I set up the sonic cleaner. Three silencers and two AR-15 BCGs in a glass pan filled with Break Through. A gallon of tap water in the sonic cleaner outside of the pan. No damage to the silencer sprayed on finishes. The phosphate finish on one BCG and OPS Inc can (not pictured) are chaukie. I don't think they are damaged either, just absolutely spotless and oil free. The first silencer in the picture series is a TBAC U7.

I soaked a silencer plugged at one end for 4 days, two hours in the ultra sonic cleaner is about the same, if not better.
 
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#102
Well. Riding around in a vehicle for a few weeks sitting breech down in CLR seemed to really soften up the fouling. Rinsed with hot water got a lot of junk out. Then hit with the bore tech washer kit and got a pile out. Check out that giant chunk that came out.

Think it’s 95 percent clean. Will repeat the CLR soak maybe get the unltrasonic out of the box I never used yet.

I think the bore tech needs to have the jets angled to get down in the k baffles more

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#103
Finally got a bad weather day to finish this thing. Been riding around in the back of my car in CLR. Cerakote a little more matte but who cares. I’m certified in Krylon anyway.

Tried hot water and banging on sink. Surprised all the stuff that came out

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Think the power washer attachment should get it perfect.

I think boiling in water or whatver the max allowable temp is would really soften the fouling up also
 
#104
I have found that shorter soaks ~10 or so hours combined with multiple hot water rinses worked better than just plain old clr soak.

^^ a lot of that will probably loosen up after a few shots too.
 
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#105
What I've been doing is soak them when I get home from work until I wake up the next day, hot water rinse, bake @250 to completely dry it out, beat the piss out of it with a wooden dowel, then toss it in the CLR again when I leave for work. Twice a day same cycle for a week or so seems to get most of the big chunks out.

However, I'm very tempted to look into the ultrasonic breakthrough thing. CLR bath alone never gets it down to bare metal.
 
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#106
Not for nothing but DMSO doesn't create lead acetate or lead lactate, both of which are toxic and will enter ground water if dumped on the ground. CLR creates lead lactate, if you dump it in your septic system it will end up in your drinking water.
 
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#109
carbonbased said:
Got a brand name? Save me from ARF! 😢
Click to expand...
Breakthrough
Just bought some.
www.breakthroughclean.com

Suppressor Cleaner - Solvents & Cleaners

Breakthrough Clean Technologies' suppressor cleaner offers multifaceted advantages for firearm enthusiasts. Primarily, it ensures consistent performance by eliminating carbon buildup, preserving the suppressor's efficiency, and extending its lifespan. The cleaner effectively removes fouling...
www.breakthroughclean.com www.breakthroughclean.com
 
#110
Ledzep said:
What I've been doing is soak them when I get home from work until I wake up the next day, hot water rinse, bake @250 to completely dry it out, beat the piss out of it with a wooden dowel, then toss it in the CLR again when I leave for work. Twice a day same cycle for a week or so seems to get most of the big chunks out.

However, I'm very tempted to look into the ultrasonic breakthrough thing. CLR bath alone never gets it down to bare metal.
Click to expand...
Mine were bare metal like they looked when they were new. Exept the erosion on the first baffle. Usung simple greennin the US cleaner. I used a soft hammer for the same effect is yhr wooden dowel. When I started with the soft hammer during hot water rinse was when stuff really stared chunking out.
 
#114
FWIW, I tested both named brand CLR and the Zep version a few years back and found that the named brand CLR has acetic acid in it and thus reacts with lead and forms lead acetate. Acetic Acid is was not on the MSDS for CLR, but it was definitely there. Not so with the ZEP. So, I use the Zep version because it is safer, cheaper and just as effective.
 
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#115
1) Get a big glass jar, big enough that your suppressor will fit in it.
2) Go to the grocery store and buy white vinegar.
3) Go to a pharmacy and buy and equal amount of hydrogen peroxide (equal to the amount of vinegar)
4) Fille the glass jar with a 50/50 solution.
5) Submerge your suppressor in it and let it soak for three or four hours. Could be longer, depends on how much carbon buildup you have.
6) Wear chemical resistant gloves like Nitrile.
7) Using metal tongs, remove the suppressor and let the liquid drain back into the glass jar.
8) Rinse the suppressor in water.
9) It will likely be as clean as the day you bought it.
10) Seal the lid on the glass jar. You can reuse the liquid several times. I typically take it to a disposal site because it is so inexspensive.

WARNING - over time, it will eat off a finish. I do not give a shit and if it does bother me I will just rattle can it.
WARNING WARNING WARNING do not get the liquid on your skin. It will absolutely dissolve the lead in the suppressor. This is why I said gloves, also do not use it in some kind of vibrating cleaner unless you are sure the container is non reactive.
 
#116
ut755ln said:
1) Get a big glass jar, big enough that your suppressor will fit in it.
2) Go to the grocery store and buy white vinegar.
3) Go to a pharmacy and buy and equal amount of hydrogen peroxide (equal to the amount of vinegar)
4) Fille the glass jar with a 50/50 solution.
5) Submerge your suppressor in it and let it soak for three or four hours. Could be longer, depends on how much carbon buildup you have.
6) Wear chemical resistant gloves like Nitrile.
7) Using metal tongs, remove the suppressor and let the liquid drain back into the glass jar.
8) Rinse the suppressor in water.
9) It will likely be as clean as the day you bought it.
10) Seal the lid on the glass jar. You can reuse the liquid several times. I typically take it to a disposal site because it is so inexspensive.

WARNING - over time, it will eat off a finish. I do not give a shit and if it does bother me I will just rattle can it.
WARNING WARNING WARNING do not get the liquid on your skin. It will absolutely dissolve the lead in the suppressor. This is why I said gloves, also do not use it in some kind of vibrating cleaner unless you are sure the container is non reactive.
Click to expand...
I'll give this a go, sounds like the cheapest simplest solution! AND.......I'll wear gloves like you wise individuals.
 
#117
ut755ln said:
1) Get a big glass jar, big enough that your suppressor will fit in it.
2) Go to the grocery store and buy white vinegar.
3) Go to a pharmacy and buy and equal amount of hydrogen peroxide (equal to the amount of vinegar)
4) Fille the glass jar with a 50/50 solution.
5) Submerge your suppressor in it and let it soak for three or four hours. Could be longer, depends on how much carbon buildup you have.
6) Wear chemical resistant gloves like Nitrile.
7) Using metal tongs, remove the suppressor and let the liquid drain back into the glass jar.
8) Rinse the suppressor in water.
9) It will likely be as clean as the day you bought it.
10) Seal the lid on the glass jar. You can reuse the liquid several times. I typically take it to a disposal site because it is so inexspensive.

WARNING - over time, it will eat off a finish. I do not give a shit and if it does bother me I will just rattle can it.
WARNING WARNING WARNING do not get the liquid on your skin. It will absolutely dissolve the lead in the suppressor. This is why I said gloves, also do not use it in some kind of vibrating cleaner unless you are sure the container is non reactive.
Click to expand...

The byproduct is lead acetate. Peroxide Vinegar is harmful to aluminum and carbon steel.
 
#118
Cascade Hemi said:
The byproduct is lead acetate. Peroxide Vinegar is harmful to aluminum and carbon steel.
Click to expand...
I had to look, none of my suppressors are made of aluminum or carbon steel.

As an aside, when I worked in shipping we used a solution like this to clean internal tanks on a vessel. The boats effectively had tanks below deck that are made of raw iron and they are coated on the inside. Over time, the coating starts to wear away and the tanks begin to rust. We would pump it into the tanks and let it sit for a couple of days and it would eat away the old coating and rust and leave behind white metal. We then recoat the tanks and are good to go for another six to eight years. I never noticed aggressive pitting in the metal and we measure the thickness of the tanks in order to keep certification.
 
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#119
ut755ln said:
I had to look, none of my suppressors are made of aluminum or carbon steel.

As an aside, when I worked in shipping we used a solution like this to clean internal tanks on a vessel. The boats effectively had tanks below deck that are made of raw iron and they are coated on the inside. Over time, the coating starts to wear away and the tanks begin to rust. We would pump it into the tanks and let it sit for a couple of days and it would eat away the old coating and rust and leave behind white metal. We then recoat the tanks and are good to go for another six to eight years. I never noticed aggressive pitting in the metal and we measure the thickness of the tanks in order to keep certification.
Click to expand...

Acid is used to remove rust, which is what vinegar peroxide is. Coincidentally, CLR also contains acid. It is why the byproduct of "the dip" is lead acetate.
 
#120
kurtispalu said:
On our really dirty R&D and Demo cans I use CLR plus a peristaltic pump (https://a.co/d/cQ8vFbe). Have the pump pull from the bottom of the container and back into the blast chamber. This doubles the amount of carbon we get out of a 4 hour soak. If you have a spot that isn't getting clean you can also use tubing to have the pump push CLR into that specific chamber
Click to expand...
You guys still cleaning your cans that way with CLR? I’m getting frustrated with a can (not yours) and I’m looking at the best and least involved way to get the fucker clean. Big carbon chunks are falling down the bore and getting caught in the action after 1488 rds.

Grrrrrrrr

Tried three rounds of Breakthrough Clean (24hrs per soak, then chlorinated brake cleaner, now what’s left of my Borerech C4 and Rimfire blend cleaners (just getting rid of them…although I think the C4 might’ve worked last time…that was involved too).

Still 1 oz over cleaned weight.

Pulled out the CLR jug in case the Boretech solution doesn’t work. I have low hopes. If CLR doesn’t work, then #2 diesel and acetone are next. Someone here said that really works.

I like the set it/forget it nature of the pump idea.

So frustrated that I might book a trip to Hawaii and scale Mauna Loa in a space suit in order to pour some molten rock down the fucker, then roll over it with a steamroller, then toss the bastard into the sea 🌊
 
Last edited:
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#121
The diesel/acetone post:

www.snipershide.com

Looking to purchase my first and last suppressor

My center-fire cans I drop in a mason jar full of boretech C4 You know, I just remembered that the last time I managed to open up my two Banish cans I think I used C4 and CLR. (Not together) This last go around I tried just CLR as I’m out of C4 and no bueno on the open-o. Hmmmmm
www.snipershide.com www.snipershide.com
 
#122
carbonbased said:
You guys still cleaning your cans that way with CLR? I’m getting frustrated with a can (not yours) and I’m looking at the best and least involved way to get the fucker clean. Big carbon chunks are falling down the bore and getting caught in the action after 1488 rds.

Grrrrrrrr

Tried three rounds of Breakthrough Clean (24hrs per soak, then chlorinated brake cleaner, now what’s left of my Borerech C4 and Rimfire blend cleaners (just getting rid of them…although I think the C4 might’ve worked last time…that was involved too).

Still 1 oz over cleaned weight.

Pulled out the CLR jug in case the Boretech solution doesn’t work. I have low hopes. If CLR doesn’t work, then #2 diesel and acetone are next. Someone here said that really works.

I like the set it/forget it nature of the pump idea.

So frustrated that I might book a trip to Hawaii and scale Mauna Loa in a space suit in order to pour some molten rock down the fucker, then roll over it with a steamroller, then toss the bastard into the sea 🌊
Click to expand...
Buy the full strength CLR (yellow bottle iirc) and not the gray one.

Use an ultrasound cleaner to knock everything out.
 
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#123
NiteQwill said:
Buy the full strength CLR (yellow bottle iirc) and not the gray one.

Use an ultrasound cleaner to knock everything out.
Click to expand...
I have the full-strength ZEP CLR. I know the different CLR makers have different chemicals in them, as I discovered and wrote up somewhere on the Hide. Maybe I’ll buy the CLR brand next time, but it’s a lot more expensive.

But yeah, I’ll be buying a darn ultrasonic if this doesn’t work out.

I thought this Breakthrough stuff ($40 a bottle!) was some magic thing.

Also discovered that even though the active ingredient is DMSO and that I used the right glove (butyl rubber), the stuff started to dissolve the expensive gloves!

There’s unlisted ingredients in the stuff, as the DSMO is only 5-10% of it, if I’m reading the SDS correctly. Some of those unlisted “trade secret” ingredients must be bad for butyl rubber. Sigh.
 
#124
Did this to my 338 Gen 2 a couple months back after sending in my Ultra 9 to be cleaned and 30P1 to be recored, CLR soak for 24 hours and pressure washed it. Didn't use the Boretech wand, just a simple pressure washer gun I use to wash my cars with. Did run my borescope down the suppressor and it does get the vast majority of the carbon out, down to the metal.

1746734127204.jpeg
1746734104854.jpeg


TBAC cleaned Ultra 9 on the left, Recored 30P1 on the right. It's a huge difference IMO

1746734306220.jpeg
 
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#125
Bacarrat said:
Did this to my 338 Gen 2 a couple months back after sending in my Ultra 9 to be cleaned and 30P1 to be recored, CLR soak for 24 hours and pressure washed it. Didn't use the Boretech wand, just a simple pressure washer gun I use to wash my cars with. Did run my borescope down the suppressor and it does get the vast majority of the carbon out, down to the metal.

View attachment 8682529View attachment 8682528

TBAC cleaned Ultra 9 on the left, Recored 30P1 on the right. It's a huge difference IMO

View attachment 8682532
Click to expand...
Yeah, previous cleans I’ve used CLR. Wasn’t easy but at least it worked. Took a long time soaking (days and days) and multiple times too. Was hoping this breakthrough stuff would be faster. Nope.

Gotta watch out soaking stainless for a long time, however, like the SR lock (I think parts of that are SS, right?)
 
#127
Bacarrat said:
If anything went wrong, I was going to blame TBAC, they were the ones to tell me to do it. lol
Click to expand...
When I use CLR, I pour it right up to the direct threads or tri-lug of my cans (Banish and Rugged). I do have a Dominus SR in hand and a Magnus SR on backorder, so I am looking forward to sending them in. This cleaning cans shit is getting old.
 
#128
I used an US also, but beating on it with a soft hammer and rinsing it out with hot water in the sink breaks up chunks and breaks loose chunkcs for me.

The only time I had carbon coming back down and causing troubles. I was using a powder that was dumping a lot of unburned powder 8nto the can.
 
#129
I dont know why some people are saying, that CLR will kill your barrel, if you clean it with it.
I would say that is BS, i have cleaned with it a long time, and doing a test, that put a stainless and black steel screws
in to a cup, that is filled with CLR.
I have not found any corrode of those screws.
And i would say, that CLR is maybe the best, like BEST carbon killer there is, like in any products you can find from
gun industy, the CLR is better than any of those.
I did find the CLR from YT and Cortina page, hi has used CLR a years, but at your own risk, since it is not a gun cleaning
stuff, even it does work in this too, but not made for it.
I use denatured alcohol patch after the barrel cleaning, just in case.
So i say CLR for anything that you have a carbon residue.
A Finnish suppressor manufacturer Ase Utra had calculated the amount of carbon residue the suppressor get´s it inside.
And they had amount, that every one 100 rounds that has been shot a caliber like 308win, it is a 1 gram in every 100 shot´s.
1 g, =15.432 gr.
 
#130
viking78 said:
I dont know why some people are saying, that CLR will kill your barrel, if you clean it with it.
I would say that is BS, i have cleaned with it a long time, and doing a test, that put a stainless and black steel screws
in to a cup, that is filled with CLR.
I have not found any corrode of those screws.
And i would say, that CLR is maybe the best, like BEST carbon killer there is, like in any products you can find from
gun industy, the CLR is better than any of those.
I did find the CLR from YT and Cortina page, hi has used CLR a years, but at your own risk, since it is not a gun cleaning
stuff, even it does work in this too, but not made for it.
I use denatured alcohol patch after the barrel cleaning, just in case.
So i say CLR for anything that you have a carbon residue.
A Finnish suppressor manufacturer Ase Utra had calculated the amount of carbon residue the suppressor get´s it inside.
And they had amount, that every one 100 rounds that has been shot a caliber like 308win, it is a 1 gram in every 100 shot´s.
1 g, =15.432 gr.
Click to expand...
I get it. It’s sort of unsettled science at this point…different manufacturers make different formulations of CLR, so saying CLR is safe…well, what brand of CLR are we talking about? Edit: And what kind of steel? I guess there’s a difference in reactions between 300 vs 400 series SS.

Frank Bartlein did a test and let CLR sit on some barrel steel for days. It etched it. I also remember a TBAC tech saying CLR ate through SS, so use a plastic bucket when cleaning suppressors because of that. He knew that because he cleaned a LOT of suppressors with CLR and I think it had eaten through a SS tub.

Obviously it takes some time for (some formulations of?) CLR to attack steel, but I guess it happens. Maybe a regular person would never see damage? Lots of unknowns.
 
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