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What he said and to add: boyd's stocks are great but usually require inletting from the liner to op-rod guide for mags to seat fully and ensure proper functioning
Should have straightened the recoil lug before bedding...second photo shows out of alignment recoil lug although it would be easier to see looking from the rear of the action...like my photo
Your recoil lug isn't straight. I've had the same problem. Here's a recoil lug that isn't straight: The recoil lug isn't straight and fitting flush in the recoil lug recess of the stock instead the barreled action is resting on a 'point' of the recoil lug.
Thought I'd pass this along. I've been using various blems for years and they are great: http://www.midwayusa.com/find?usersearchquery=blemished&itemsperpage=96&searchscope=all
I don't use new brass as all my rifles have favored/prove accurate with 1X fired LC. I used to track each piece but found it unnecessary and for the past few years I just load and shoot...have become a lot better at inspection of fired cases too
In a new barrel/new rifle I use once fired LC MG cases with a start charge of the powder I have the least of with the cheapest bullets I have on hand. I use it to get on paper and break in but its more important to me to have the brass for the next trip when accuracy testing actually begins...
I like them for the simplicity and speed they provide when firing at more challenging unspecified distances. For my scopes without them and boringly firing from the defined 600yd line, 500yd line, 400yd line...I just use High-power established MOA come ups converted to scopes 1/8 or 1/4...
I just load my ammo for my AR pattern rifles to mag length...an AR is useless to me if I can't load the ammo into magazines. If I want the fattest part of the ogive closer to the lands I trim the meplat. My OAL tool is a stoney point which Hornady bought out and re-branded but both the .223 and...
I use one as well and what I do is point the muzzle straight up I usually prop the rifle in a corner and insert the tool and slide until the bullets gets stuck in the lands. Not stuck hard enough that I need to knock it out through the barrel though. Stuck enough that a tap on the stock with my...
By all means get some cerrosafe and post the results of your chamber cast and the dimensions of your fired brass then come back and call me a tard until then your words have no meaning
Might need to cerrosafe your chamber and measure the casting then bump the shoulders back on your brass before you gall the lugs Cerrosafe Chamber Casting Alloy 1/2 lb
Even in fire-formed and neck sized brass there is still several thousandths clearance entirely around the cartridge. The brass expands to chamber dimensions when fired due to heat but when it cools it contracts as that is the only way it can be extracted
Well we know it will cant at least two thousandths. Ammunition needs at a minimum two thou clearance all the way around in order to chamber. Before someone adds that they only neck size yadda yadda let's remember that brass expands to chamber dimensions only briefly then contracts several thou...
I just don't see the point. Get the bolt face all trued up then chamber a round with the ejector and spring installed in the bolt...everything was squared up and now a round is chambered with a lot of spring pressure exerted on one side of the case head...all the truing and straightness in the...
What amazes me the most about Federal brass and reloading is the amount of folks who read about/heard about it being soft but never even tried it for themselves. It has worked as good for me as most others have. I once chalked it up to being soft when my primer pockets wouldn't hold primers but...