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6.5 Creedmoor

With factory ammo groups like this. Why would one even reload? PS I'm still planning to reload, just testing bullets. I'm a sh*t shoot too, (2) 3 shot strings and 100yrds
 

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Yep, LRP primers have been hard to find.

One viable work-around is to switch to SRP brass like Lapua, Peterson, both top-notch quality, or Starline (an econo brand), and then prime with CCI450’s, which is their small rifle magnum primer. They seem to be in stock most of the time.

Just fair warning that some bolts/firing pin holes have too much gap, and are not SRP friendly and you may see pierced primers. Then you need to get your bolt bushed. I had no issues using SRP brass so far, and never needed to get a bolt bushed, but maybe i was just lucky. Lapua SRP brass lasts 20-25 reloads, making them cheaper per shot.

Maybe try to get one or two boxes of Berger factory match ammo, which uses Lapua SRP brass.

One way to beat the hoarders: Shoot what they don’t shoot.
I did need a new bolt and firing pin as either they've upgraded it or I had some erosion, but Lapua SRP is working well now with CCI 450's. Question: Do you know what the difference would be between the CCI 450 and CCI BR4 ?? I'll be testing it out but curious if anyone else has tested the difference.
 
So I'm attempting to disassemble my Bergara B14 HMR bolt to remove the extra grease in the assembly. I noticed these flat spots on the bolt shroud. They are 180 degrees apart at 3 and 9 o'clock. Does this seems normal? Also, does anyone know if there is a "proper" way to remove the firing in from the cocked chamber indicator? It seems the firing pin just threads in, but it seems like there is quite a bit of resistance and I rather not snap it off. Thanks for any insight

Just wanted to update... BPI sent me out a the new MIM shroud. I was looking at trying the Crossroads Precision SS shroud, but I'm running with the updated factory for now. Thanks BPI, much appreciated!
 

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Hi all,

Just getting into reloading and have a bit of a conundrum. My barrel has a short throat and wondering if I should take any precautions on loading for it.

Setup is a Tikka with a PVA prefit. I've been shooting it awhile and have just over 1000rds on it. Since I had it put on it's had a "tight chamber". Factory 130 Berger FGMM has a very tight bolt close and Hornady 140 match has the same to a lesser extent. Both loads shot very well though.

I've recently got a reloading setup and have figured out where my lands are to develop my first loads. Turns out my throat is short. To seat 130 OTM Hybrids where they just touch the lands, I'm seating them shorter than the factory loads and just getting the bearing surface of the bullet into the neck/shoulder junction. Its a bit late to have the barrel sent back and corrected so I'm a bit stuck.

Looking for some guiding advice for a new reloader on this.
 
Hi all,

Just getting into reloading and have a bit of a conundrum. My barrel has a short throat and wondering if I should take any precautions on loading for it.

Setup is a Tikka with a PVA prefit. I've been shooting it awhile and have just over 1000rds on it. Since I had it put on it's had a "tight chamber". Factory 130 Berger FGMM has a very tight bolt close and Hornady 140 match has the same to a lesser extent. Both loads shot very well though.

I've recently got a reloading setup and have figured out where my lands are to develop my first loads. Turns out my throat is short. To seat 130 OTM Hybrids where they just touch the lands, I'm seating them shorter than the factory loads and just getting the bearing surface of the bullet into the neck/shoulder junction. Its a bit late to have the barrel sent back and corrected so I'm a bit stuck.

Looking for some guiding advice for a new reloader on this.
You seem to be getting good accuracy and you are not stating you have over pressure issues so I would not worry about it.

The nice thing about reloading is being able to customize to the rifle. I would work up a load with factory OAL that shoots well.

If you can't get what you want, then tell us your load and ask for advice.

It would not be hard to change the throat with a reamer, but I would hold off.
 
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You seem to be getting good accuracy and you are not stating you have over pressure issues so I would not worry about it.

The nice thing about reloading is being able to customize to the rifle. I would work up a load with factory OAL that shoots well.

If you can't get what you want, then tell us your load and ask for advice.

It would not be hard to change the throat with a reamer, but I would hold off.
Thanks for the thoughts. I'll work up a load as normal then and watch for pressure signs. Figured I ask the question before running into a dangerous situation.

I've seen some suggestions to use a throat reamer however I'm not sure what dimension I should be shooting for. I suppose I'd need to decide how much jump I'd want and consider magazine length but I'm trying to just get my feet wet first.
 
Thanks for the thoughts. I'll work up a load as normal then and watch for pressure signs. Figured I ask the question before running into a dangerous situation.

I've seen some suggestions to use a throat reamer however I'm not sure what dimension I should be shooting for. I suppose I'd need to decide how much jump I'd want and consider magazine length but I'm trying to just get my feet wet first.
Make sure you don’t have carbon build up causing a measuring issue, also compare shoulder length to factory. Are you neck turning too? I would also contact the barrel maker and just see what they say won’t hurt.
 
Thanks for the thoughts. I'll work up a load as normal then and watch for pressure signs. Figured I ask the question before running into a dangerous situation.

I've seen some suggestions to use a throat reamer however I'm not sure what dimension I should be shooting for. I suppose I'd need to decide how much jump I'd want and consider magazine length but I'm trying to just get my feet wet first.
Since throat erosion is a real thing, why not wait until accuracy drops, then cut a new throat?

At least then you are not risking anything if it goes sideways.
 
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Make sure you don’t have carbon build up causing a measuring issue, also compare shoulder length to factory. Are you neck turning too? I would also contact the barrel maker and just see what they say won’t hurt.
I keep a pretty clean throat to avoid a carbon ring and was using sharpie on the bullet to find the lands.

How would I compare shoulder length to factory? Pulling a factory round seems like the only way right? Still when I sharpie a factory round you can see the lands on the bullet. Even without the sharpie you can see the lands leaving marks on the bullet.

Good idea, I'll reach out to PVA. Just figured I've dealt with it this long probably wouldn't get much support from them (which is what I would expect).
 
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Hm I like that suggestion. I really don't want to start cutting steel unless it's absolutely needed since it shoots well already.
Hm I like that suggestion. I really don't want to start cutting steel unless it's absolutely needed since it shoots well already.
Sorry I was talking about case base to ogive measurement of your loads to a factory load to compare. I am still in learning mode so I may be all wet.



 
Sorry I was talking about case base to ogive measurement of your loads to a factory load to compare. I am still in learning mode so I may be all wet.



Ah gotcha. I compared a factory loads (130 FGMM) to mine when set to just touch the lands and got around a .020 difference between CBTOs with the factory load being longer. I'll have to double check when I get back to my computer with the spreadsheets.
 
Quick update. Got back to my computer and the difference between a factory 130 FGMM CBTO and just touching the lands is 0.074. Which really seems excessive.
 
Quick update. Got back to my computer and the difference between a factory 130 FGMM CBTO and just touching the lands is 0.074. Which really seems excessive.
From my understanding most start testing this way. Using preformed brass and (bumping the shoulder back .002-.003”then finding what powder charge has the most consistent groups.
then

Touching lands then back away .003”.
Then in .002” or .003” increments keep backing away from the lands to find a node where the riffle shoots constant groups in three jumps in a row.) all same powder load and bullets.
-.003 so so group
-.006 “. “
-.009 “. “
-.012 “ great group
-.015”. Great group
-.018” Great group
-.021” ok group
-.024”. ok group
So .-012” to -.018 is your rifles node

There are some great shooters that explain this way better than me… check out Erik Cortina or F-Class Dave both Champions in long range shooting
 
Please understand that every rifle is different and factory ammo varies.
Most of all I am just learning all of this. Consistency in every step is the key factor always.
But power, bullets and cases are stay the same lot numbers if anything changes it may require finding a new node again.

Best of luck
 
From my understanding most start testing this way. Using preformed brass and (bumping the shoulder back .002-.003”then finding what powder charge has the most consistent groups.
then

Touching lands then back away .003”.
Then in .002” or .003” increments keep backing away from the lands to find a node where the riffle shoots constant groups in three jumps in a row.) all same powder load and bullets.
-.003 so so group
-.006 “. “
-.009 “. “
-.012 “ great group
-.015”. Great group
-.018” Great group
-.021” ok group
-.024”. ok group
So .-012” to -.018 is your rifles node

There are some great shooters that explain this way better than me… check out Erik Cortina or F-Class Dave both Champions in long range shooting

Please understand that every rifle is different and factory ammo varies.
Most of all I am just learning all of this. Consistency in every step is the key factor always.
But power, bullets and cases are stay the same lot numbers if anything changes it may require finding a new node again.

Best of luck
I understand how to work up a load, my question was more centered on loading with a short throat in mind. Are there any safety concerns, things I should watch out for, how does seating the bullet deep affect the internal ballistics of the setup, etc? That sort of thing.
 
I understand how to work up a load, my question was more centered on loading with a short throat in mind. Are there any safety concerns, things I should watch out for, how does seating the bullet deep affect the internal ballistics of the setup, etc? That sort of thing.
Seating deeper raises pressure. Back off your powder charge if needed.
 
I understand how to work up a load, my question was more centered on loading with a short throat in mind. Are there any safety concerns, things I should watch out for, how does seating the bullet deep affect the internal ballistics of the setup, etc? That sort of thing.
When you seat longer, closer to the lands when the bullet is fired it is still in the case and builds up pressure. If you load them short there is more bullet jump. It leaves the case before pressure builds. If you load close to the lands you need to back off on your powder charge.
 
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In my state, "nonlead" ammunition is required for hunting. I have little experience with nonlead bullets and it turns out they are not as forgiving as lead core bullets. After 60 rounds of load development, I was ready to throw in the towel. The best I was getting was just over an inch with big velocity spreads. With some guidance from the bullet manufacturer, I finally found a load that shot under an inch at 100 yards with a reasonable ES (below). Big thank you to Justin Evans at Lehigh Defense for the help.

22" Bartlein #4, 1:8" twist @ 80 rounds:
130 gr Lehigh Defense Controlled Chaos ("nonlead" monolithic copper bullet)
CCI 200
Lapua LRP Brass (1x fired)
+/-0.050" jump
2.777" OAL
41.5 gr H4350
Ave MV: 2,777
ES: 6
SD: 2.6
Note: this is close to a compressed load.

Ballistic-X-Export-2022-10-14 16_07_42.024062.jpg


A few other things learned about copper bullets in the process:
  • They foul your bore very quickly. I had to clean out the copper after every 20 rounds to maintain accuracy.
  • They require more neck tension than lead core bullets
  • They are very long for their weight
  • It is not a given that nice factory ammo will shoot well in your barrel
In addition to the load above, I tried Staball, seating depths from 0 to 60 thou off, 127 gr LRX bullets, factory ammo.
 
18” Rock Creek by PVA. MV is 2723 FPS. 3 shot groups are one ragged hole.

42.6 of H4350
CCI 450
Peterson SRP
Sierra 130 TGK Gamechanger

.060 off jam
COAL 2.800
 
Unfortunately my Bartlein 26" barrel with H4350 and Hornady 140gn ELDM hates them and they shoot like crap. On the other hand it loves the 147gn and H4350.
 
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Unfortunately my Bartlein 26" barrel with H4350 and Hornady 140gn ELDM hates them and they shoot like crap. On the other hand it loves the 147gn and H4350.
have you had any issues with the 147 ELD-M blowing up? Sounded like they shot good for you?
 
So this was interesting... cold bore + 2 groups.

22" supressed Proof carbon prefit, 1/8
Lapua SRP Brass, cci 450
43gr of Varget
85gr Hammer Hunter
2.640" COAL
3290FPS
20221025_133331.jpg
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have you had any issues with the 147 ELD-M blowing up? Sounded like they shot good for you?
No. No issues. I duplicated the load 4 times and shoots 1 hole every time. I will have to load up those 140gn ELDM with RL16 and see if I have any better luck.
 
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Is that your varmint load?
Not sure. I was going to try the 124gr Hammer Hunters and just ordered the 85s because I thought that it would be fun to see how fast I could push them. I didn't think they would shoot this good or go that fast.

I think it would work really well on hogs and deer. It's a monolithic bullet, so it's going to pentrate pretty well I would imagine.

I can't seem to get a good load for the 124gr bullets. Going to try RL16 next and a bit more jump.
 
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I took a break from reloading for a few years while I moved and am in the process of setting up my new reloading room. I can't believe how much has changed. The reason I'm cluttering up this thread is I plan on ordering a new barrel in 6.5CM that I will definitely be using for load development. Any particular recommendations on twist, length, etc... since this thread began (58 pages ago!!)? Goal is to shoot out to 1000yds with confidence. Setup will be an AI AT with good glass. Just trying to decide between different pre-fit barrel options. Thank you all. First post DONE!

Chris
 
I took a break from reloading for a few years while I moved and am in the process of setting up my new reloading room. I can't believe how much has changed. The reason I'm cluttering up this thread is I plan on ordering a new barrel in 6.5CM that I will definitely be using for load development. Any particular recommendations on twist, length, etc... since this thread began (58 pages ago!!)? Goal is to shoot out to 1000yds with confidence. Setup will be an AI AT with good glass. Just trying to decide between different pre-fit barrel options. Thank you all. First post DONE!

Chris
26” 1:8 twist is what see most often.

Fairly universal load for 6.5 creed:
140 gr ELDM 40-60 thou off lands
41.5 gr H4350 (or whatever gets to around 2780ish)
Lapua brass
 
What loads are people using in MPA rifles? More specifically what are your Berger 140 hybrid target loads?
 
When you seat longer, closer to the lands when the bullet is fired it is still in the case and builds up pressure. If you load them short there is more bullet jump. It leaves the case before pressure builds. If you load close to the lands you need to back off on your powder charge.
Seating deeper increases pressure because it reduces case volume, gordons reloading tool can be used to display this
 
Scored some 140 Hybrids locally and decided to try the Satterlee method but I'm having trouble figuring out where I should investigate further. They are about .090 off the lands at 2.855, about as long as I can go with the Pmags though. Velocity is all taken from a labradar and using a griffin paladin suppressor. No pressure signs whatsoever not even a stiff bolt lift or ejector mark.
65 creed 140 hybrid rl26.png
 
Scored some 140 Hybrids locally and decided to try the Satterlee method but I'm having trouble figuring out where I should investigate further. They are about .090 off the lands at 2.855, about as long as I can go with the Pmags though. Velocity is all taken from a labradar and using a griffin paladin suppressor. No pressure signs whatsoever not even a stiff bolt lift or ejector mark.View attachment 8016526
You’re gonna die
 
That is some smoking velocity.
Scored some 140 Hybrids locally and decided to try the Satterlee method but I'm having trouble figuring out where I should investigate further. They are about .090 off the lands at 2.855, about as long as I can go with the Pmags though. Velocity is all taken from a labradar and using a griffin paladin suppressor. No pressure signs whatsoever not even a stiff bolt lift or ejector mark.View attachment 8016526
Slow that thing down.
 
That is some smoking velocity.

Slow that thing down.
I've been this fast with 2 different rifles, both 26" chambered by PVA, one a Rock Creek 1/8, and this osprey 1/7.5. Nucleus gen 1 and a zeus qc. Had 800 rounds on the nuke when I sold it, nearing 500 so far on this zeus.
 
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Scored some 140 Hybrids locally and decided to try the Satterlee method but I'm having trouble figuring out where I should investigate further. They are about .090 off the lands at 2.855, about as long as I can go with the Pmags though. Velocity is all taken from a labradar and using a griffin paladin suppressor. No pressure signs whatsoever not even a stiff bolt lift or ejector mark.View attachment 8016526
Well....you are shooting a 6.5 creedmoor not a 6.5 PRC. Try slowing down between the 2700-2800 mark. You want good consistent case fill , if you are crunching powder which most likely im guessing you are, then you are going to get erratic crazy numbers.
 
What kind of velocity should I expect with a 22" barrel shooting 130s? Thinking about a shorter gun for PRS.
 
Looking for suggestions:

Alpha SRP brass
Cci 450 primers
H4350
140 ELDm
26”bartlein

I use the Redding type s FL sizer
21st century expanding mandrel
Sinclair/Wilson micrometer seater