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6.5 Creedmoor

Emulating factory ammo is likely not the best approach. For seating depth you should start with the specs your reloading data lists. Consider getting a Hornady tool that will measure maximum cartridge length in the chamber, so you can load precise lengths and controlling the jump of the bullet to the rifling, or as normally referred to as jump to lands.
Berger and Hornady ELD bullets can often like a jump of .040 give or take to the lands. So if your max chamber length, max cartridge length at which point the bullet is touching the lands is 2.875 (for instance) you might start loading for a .040 jump, which would be a COL of 2.835. Then you might reduce by .005” until you find your best seating depth.
Then there is BTO measurement which is a much more accurate and precise measurement related to length and much more precise related to chamber size, and seating depths.

You will find a wealth of information here and likely better described and communicated than I am able.
I appreciate your info. You gave me my next step.
 
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Hello. I've been shooting CCI 200 larger rifle primers and am just about out. I have a bunch of CCI 250 large rifle magnum primers. Anyone have any experience switching to magnum primers?

Thanks
John


Yeah I've tested that in some loads but not my 6.5cm but I very much doubt it will change anything for you. It could give you a little more speed and pressure, so if you are on the edge of high pressure, back off before you try it. If your load is medium to mild, you should be fine and I doubt it will change anything at all
 
Anyone have experience running 120-130gr bullets with a 7.5 twist?
Yes. I run the 130eldm in my match rifle 7.5 twist and it’s been fantastic for almost 2,500 rounds now. Always hover in the very low 2,900fps zone.
 
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After reading a lot of posts here and other forums.... when it comes to reloading 6.5 Creedmoor, the most common powder agreed upon is 4350, about equal between Hodgdon and IMR brands...
That being said, I'm going to buy a pound and give it a try.... I like to get close to 2700 fps with a 140gr Hornady ELD-M. I'll ladder from 39.7gr to 40.4gr in .10gr steps.
Hodgdon load data says 40.0Cgr gets 2660 fps.
Chrono: Labradar
Ballistics: Kestrel 5700 Elite
Gun: Bergara HMR Pro 6.5 Creedmoor, 24" 1:8 twist,
Optics: Vortex PST Gen 2 5-25 ffp, zero 200yrd .75 tmoa
Cartridge: Lapua brass, Federal 210 primer, trim 1.917, oal 2.792
I'll post back on how the 4350 performs in this rifle..

texashaag

My current powder in use is Staball 6.5 42.7gr consistent hits at 1000 yards on 10" gong
Texashaag
I have that exact rifle and run the 140eldm with H4350 as well but, I am using Starline brass. My set up starts hitting pressure on the case and stiff bolt lift around 41.2, but it is also poking in the upper 2780ish on the FPS as well. That barrel/chamber on the Bergaras seem to be pretty tight and fast. As others have been saying drop down a bit and run a ladder test and see where your rifle combo hits pressure. Don't get to caught up the weeds to much on that combo, the 140 eldms shoot well.
 
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Yes. I run the 130eldm in my match rifle 7.5 twist and it’s been fantastic for almost 2,500 rounds now. Always hover in the very low 2,900fps zone.
Cool. Been seeing a few 7.5tw barrels for sale. Looking at building my first 6.5. Thinking Ill be running 130s and 140s at the heaviest.
 
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In my 6.5 gasser I'm running 43gr of N555 for 2700 fps. Just another alternative.
How you liking the N555? I just picked up an 8# jug and have not shot it yet. Any ideas for starting load? Will be shooting 140 Eld and 143 Eld x. Thanks
 
This is probably already been posted, but...... can anyone confirm that Hornaday uses H4350 and approximate 41.5 g in their factory 140 EDM loads?
I just heard this recently and was wondering if it was true.
 
This is probably already been posted, but...... can anyone confirm that Hornaday uses H4350 and approximate 41.5 g in their factory 140 EDM loads?
I just heard this recently and was wondering if it was true.
They absolutely used to. I don't know about now or when/if they changed it but it used to say so right on the side of the box
 
After reading a lot of posts here and other forums.... when it comes to reloading 6.5 Creedmoor, the most common powder agreed upon is 4350, about equal between Hodgdon and IMR brands...
That being said, I'm going to buy a pound and give it a try.... I like to get close to 2700 fps with a 140gr Hornady ELD-M. I'll ladder from 39.7gr to 40.4gr in .10gr steps.
Hodgdon load data says 40.0Cgr gets 2660 fps.
Chrono: Labradar
Ballistics: Kestrel 5700 Elite
Gun: Bergara HMR Pro 6.5 Creedmoor, 24" 1:8 twist,
Optics: Vortex PST Gen 2 5-25 ffp, zero 200yrd .75 tmoa
Cartridge: Lapua brass, Federal 210 primer, trim 1.917, oal 2.792
I'll post back on how the 4350 performs in this rifle..

texashaag

My current powder in use is Staball 6.5 42.7gr consistent hits at 1000 yards on 10" gong

I bought some Accurate 4350 but only because I almost gave up on 6.5 Staball
I haven't had enough time to read every post to this thread but glad to see a few folks using 6.5 Staball...

I almost gave all of mine away due to continuous poor results but it seems like most barrels have liked the hotter loads with this stuff. With that in mind I bumped the charges up to 42.0-43.0gr in .2gr increments.

I found a node at 42.2-42.4gr behind 143 gr Hornady ELD-X bullets using 24" Proof carbon fiber barrel. Didn't get chrono data this time around but once I pick the tenths of grains apart in between and on each side of this new sweet spot I will have that data too next time.

Just wanted to post this in case anyone is getting as frustrated as I was at 6.5 Staball or their Carbon fiber barrels too :)

brass: Hornady (3x fired & annealed) - neck sized only
primer: CCI large rifle magnum
powder: 42.2-42.4gr 6.5 Staball
bullet: 143 gr ELD-X
Base to Ogive: 2.165

action: Falkor Defense Rem 700 SA
barrel: Proof CF 24" 1:7.5 - 4 groove
trigger: TriggerTech 2 stage flat
chasis: MDT ACC
glass: Leupold Mark 5HD 7-35 - PR2 MOA reticle
Banish 30 suppressor

Hello. I've been shooting CCI 200 larger rifle primers and am just about out. I have a bunch of CCI 250 large rifle magnum primers. Anyone have any experience switching to magnum primers?

Thanks
John

Just used some today with really good results!
 
Hey everyone fairly new to reloading and my gun has really liked 40.2 gr h4350 with 140g smk. I don’t have access to a chronograph ( will be getting one in the next few months) and was wondering a roundabout fps this load would give me out of a 24 inch barrel
 
Hey everyone fairly new to reloading and my gun has really liked 40.2 gr h4350 with 140g smk. I don’t have access to a chronograph ( will be getting one in the next few months) and was wondering a roundabout fps this load would give me out of a 24 inch barrel
What brass? With Hornady, probably high 25s to low 26s, With Lapua or Alpha, probably high 26s.

Also, if you have ballistic AE, it’s very easy to calculate velocities based on your elevation required at a given distance.

John
 
I have never used a neck sizer die, I've always done full length.... How is the bushing size determined? I know it is to uniform neck tension... The seem to come in .001 increments... bullet diameter is .264 6.5 creedmoor. Where to start?

texashaag
 
I have never used a neck sizer die, I've always done full length.... How is the bushing size determined? I know it is to uniform neck tension... The seem to come in .001 increments... bullet diameter is .264 6.5 creedmoor. Where to start?

texashaag
For me, I do not believe just neck sizing is the way to go. There is a ton of info out there and some from professional competition shooters. I would do a lot of research before I went that route. That is my opinion, for what it’s worth.
 
It seems that with the 6.5 CM 123 gr ELD M’s that PP 2000 MR should work. Does anyone have any data or experience regarding such?

Thanks!
 
I have never used a neck sizer die, I've always done full length.... How is the bushing size determined? I know it is to uniform neck tension... The seem to come in .001 increments... bullet diameter is .264 6.5 creedmoor. Where to start?

texashaag
IF you read , the most normal way is to measure a loaded round neck OD's. There are usually .002 difference between the OD at the top of the case neck and at the bottom. Take the loaded round's OD measurements and subtract .002 and that will get you started. Some , suggest start with .001 and .003 or .004 when you get several firings on the brass.
Conventional neck and FL dies with the expender balls will require more often case trimming, but , that's another story.
 
It seems that with the 6.5 CM 123 gr ELD M’s that PP 2000 MR should work. Does anyone have any data or experience regarding such?

Thanks!
I found scant information and have SWAGged a range of charges to look at. For 123 gr ELD I am thinking of between 42 and 44 as a range. Working up from 42 to 44 in .2 gr increments.
Sounds reasonable? Using Lapua brass. Will have to wait until I can get my hands on large rifle primers to test this out.
 
I found scant information and have SWAGged a range of charges to look at. For 123 gr ELD I am thinking of between 42 and 44 as a range. Working up from 42 to 44 in .2 gr increments.
Sounds reasonable? Using Lapua brass. Will have to wait until I can get my hands on large rifle primers to test this out.
2000MR is pretty close to Varget in burn rate. Given 2000MR’s burn rate, 42gr to start seems pretty hot. I’ve used Varget behind 123s and it does very well but anything more than 40gr and I’m starting to see excess pressure signs. That clocks in the mid 2900s from a 24” barrel. If I were gonna work up with 2000MR, I’d probably start around 38gr.

John
 
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2000MR is pretty close to Varget in burn rate. Given 2000MR’s burn rate, 42gr to start seems pretty hot. I’ve used Varget behind 123s and it does very well but anything more than 40gr and I’m starting to see excess pressure signs. That clocks in the mid 2900s from a 24” barrel. If I were gonna work up with 2000MR, I’d probably start around 38gr.

John
I will keep your advice in mind, but I also will point out that it’s not only about burn rate but density as well. In data presented where both Varget and 2000 mr are both presented, Varget’s charge is normally a couple/few grains under 2000 Mr at similar muzzle speeds.
I will, however, take extra precautions and begin lower, move slower as a result of your caution. Only a fool would ignore caution. I have been reloading since the mid 70’s and have never blown up a gun, and do not intend to start now lol

However, should anyone else have experience with this combo I would certainly love to hear from you.

With much respect, thanks!
 
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2000MR is pretty close to Varget in burn rate. Given 2000MR’s burn rate, 42gr to start seems pretty hot. I’ve used Varget behind 123s and it does very well but anything more than 40gr and I’m starting to see excess pressure signs. That clocks in the mid 2900s from a 24” barrel. If I were gonna work up with 2000MR, I’d probably start around 38gr.

John
A lite update: I found some data for 120 gr Barnes and PP 2000 MR at 37.3 to 41.4 grains. I think I will run with that. Assuming I ever find some large rifle primers.
 
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For me, I do not believe just neck sizing is the way to go. There is a ton of info out there and some from professional competition shooters. I would do a lot of research before I went that route. That is my opinion, for what it’s worth.

So the recommendation these days is to full length size every round for 6.5 from a bolt gun?

Sorry, I haven't touched my 6.5 setup in probably 3-4 years and I recall reading a bunch back then that neck sizing fire formed brass and only bumping the shoulder was the preferred method for a bolt action.

Any good place to start for FL sizing wisdom these day? Also is the Berger 130gr hybrid the new hotness over the Hornady 140gr?
 
So the recommendation these days is to full length size every round for 6.5 from a bolt gun?

Sorry, I haven't touched my 6.5 setup in probably 3-4 years and I recall reading a bunch back then that neck sizing fire formed brass and only bumping the shoulder was the preferred method for a bolt action.

Any good place to start for FL sizing wisdom these day? Also is the Berger 130gr hybrid the new hotness over the Hornady 140gr?
Best place to start is to find out what the pros do. I follow a couple of them on YouTube as well as online. If they FL size, I do to. Back when it became popular to neck size only I never jumped in there. I had extremely small growth in my 30-06 cartridges years ago so felt no need to change what was working for me.
 
So the recommendation these days is to full length size every round for 6.5 from a bolt gun?

Sorry, I haven't touched my 6.5 setup in probably 3-4 years and I recall reading a bunch back then that neck sizing fire formed brass and only bumping the shoulder was the preferred method for a bolt action.

Any good place to start for FL sizing wisdom these day? Also is the Berger 130gr hybrid the new hotness over the Hornady 140gr?
I FL size 6.5 only. Mighty Armory die’s are excellent if you don’t want to use a bushing die & mandrel set up.
For the later I use a Redding type S FL bushing die & then a 21st Century mandrel to set neck tension. If you want specific bushing and mandrel sizes LMK & I’ll check when I get home.

I wouldn’t call the 130 Hybrid the new hotness, but it’s been a very easy to tune bullet for me. Can get the 130 hyb’s 2900+ so for targets -1000+ they’re great. If there’s going to be targets 1200+ I’ll load 135 Atips, 144 Bergers. Those are my preference. Plenty of other good bullets to pick from & availability is improving.

Just recently heard Jake Vibbert on the Rifles Only podcast saying he likes running 153gr A-tips in his 6.5 Creedmoor and runs them slow, like 2700. Certainly can’t argue with his results.
Sure got me thinking a bit.
 
So the recommendation these days is to full length size every round for 6.5 from a bolt gun?

Sorry, I haven't touched my 6.5 setup in probably 3-4 years and I recall reading a bunch back then that neck sizing fire formed brass and only bumping the shoulder was the preferred method for a bolt action.

Any good place to start for FL sizing wisdom these day? Also is the Berger 130gr hybrid the new hotness over the Hornady 140gr?
For sizing dies, Whidden Gun Works is a good place to start. He has a great article on Bushing vs Non-Bushing dies along with a lot of additional information on choosing bushings and die setup.

Forster Dies is another good place to find a non-bushing die. They will custom hone your die to a specific neck size for a small fee.

The Hornady Custom Grade or Match Grade dies are surprisingly good for a 6.5 Creedmoor as well.

The Berger 130gr Hybrids are hot because they have been available recently as are the Hornady 140gr BTHP Match bullets. But they are good bullets and will shoot well in most guns.
 
The Hornady Custom Grade or Match Grade dies are surprisingly good for a 6.5 Creedmoor as well.

The Berger 130gr Hybrids are hot because they have been available recently as are the Hornady 140gr BTHP Match bullets. But they are good bullets and will shoot well in most guns.
I got a set of the Hornady custom along with the micrometer seating attachment to try with my 224 and was extremely surprised by the concentricity and overall accuracy, specially at that price. The micrometer was a bit touchy and a tad inconsistent but overall very nice.
 
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I have been using hBn on my bullets a few years now, and I must say that my experience convinces me to make it a permanent part of my process.
I began using it with my 224 Valkyrie loads and experienced nothing but positives. The biggest impact was the effect on barrel cleaning. I would have very little carbon and copper buildup to clean. As a result my cleanings became very mild and less frequent.
Another aspect, which so far is only subjective, is that I am fairly certain wear is significantly reduced.
Anyone else here use that? I am going to be applying it to my Creedmoor process as well.
 
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I got a set of the Hornady custom along with the micrometer seating attachment to try with my 224 and was extremely surprised by the concentricity and overall accuracy, specially at that price. The micrometer was a bit touchy and a tad inconsistent but overall very nice.
What I have done with my Hornady seating die is divide the top into 8 segments with permanent marker with one of the segments highlighted.
Its around .056" per revolution so each segment is about .007" I put a reference line on the step below (main body of die) and also wrote .007" there to remind me how much each segment is. A crude but cheap way to make semi-accurate adjustments to seating depth with a standard die.
 
What I have done with my Hornady seating die is divide the top into 8 segments with permanent marker with one of the segments highlighted.
Its around .056" per revolution so each segment is about .007" I put a reference line on the step below (main body of die) and also wrote .007" there to remind me how much each segment is. A crude but cheap way to make semi-accurate adjustments to seating depth with a standard die.
Awesome! I have thought about doing something such as that. Since it is working for you, I will give it a go. I was also thinking about marking the threads so that I can adjust that way to “zero” the entire thing so that the zero reference mark would be facing me.
 
T3x Lite w/ original barrel cut to 19.25". New starline brass 1x resized w/ CCI primers & H4350. Measured w/ a magnetospeed sporter attached to a suppressor w/ sensitivity on Hi 2.

Went through a ladder with some 140s and 143s today just to get an idea of what velocity I'm getting. 32 degrees out. 70 in the house and I brought rounds out 3 at a time and shot them in different orders each time. Just trying to see if I get pressure signs anywhere. Loaded as long as they'd fit in my CTR magazine. I have all the measurements written down and how far off the lands they are in a different book. I loaded these a year ago and never got around to shooting them. Will post headstamp pics later and see if anyone has an opinion on pressure signs. Maybe a minor swipe at 43+ but I get that fairly often from this gun so hard to say.

One thing that's interesting is that the 143s are slightly faster than the 140s. Guessing that has to do w/ bullet shape and bearing surface? 147s are also faster but it was 15 degrees warmer when I shot those.

140 Hybrid Target
H43506.5 CMCharge
36​
37​
38​
39​
40​
40.5​
41​
41.5​
42​
42.5​
43​
43.5​
140 HybridBook Velocity2378 @36.5
2634​
Berger34-40.3Chrono Velocity
2298​
2354​
2435​
2450​
2509​
2529​
2556​
2605​
2634​
2657​


140 Elite Hunter
H43506.5 CMCharge
38​
39​
40​
40.5​
41​
41.5​
42​
42.5​
43​
43.5​
140 Elite HunterBook Velocity
2471​
2731​
Berger38 to 42.3Chrono Velocity
2290​
2344​
2408​
2460​
2479​
2512​
2570​
2598​
2633​
2649​

143 ELD-X
H43506.5 CMCharge
36​
37​
38​
39​
40​
40.5​
41​
41.5​
42​
42.5​
43​
43.5​
143 ELD-XBook Velocity
2400​
2500​
2600​
2650​
2700​
HornadyChrono Velocity
2344​
2405​
2444​
2511​
2503​
2557​
2563​
2629​
2651​
2662​


Older data for reference
156 EOL shot at 42 degrees
H43506.5 CMCharge
37​
38​
39​
40​
40.5​
41​
41.5​
42​
42.5​
156 EOLBook Velocity2405 @36.52627 @ 40.3
Berger34-40.3Chrono Velocity
2265​
2282​
2354​
2449​
2447​
2473​
2500​
2536​
2576​

147 ELD-M w/ CCI Primers at 47 degrees
H43506.5 CMCharge
36​
37​
38​
39​
40​
40.5​
41​
41.5​
42​
42.5​
43​
CCI147 ELD-MBook Velocity
2400​
2500​
2550​
2600​
Hornady34-40.3Chrono Velocity
2252​
2291​
2321​
2455​
2495​
2491​
2548​
2553​
2583​
2616​
2629​


147 ELD-M w/ WIN Primers at 47 degrees
H43506.5 CMCharge
36​
37​
38​
39​
40​
40.5​
41​
41.5​
42​
42.5​
43​
WIN147 ELD-MBook Velocity
2400​
2500​
2550​
2600​
Hornady34-40.3Chrono Velocity
2254​
2323​
2370​
2430​
2510​
2534​
2558​
2590​
2621​
2658​
2637​
Finished up verifying some velocities today w/ 42.2 gr of H4350. CCI and Winchester primers w/ 140 EH and 143 ELD-X. Still a bit slow but it'll work for me.


RY3JNPWh.jpg
 
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Finished up verifying some velocities today w/ 42.2 gr of H4350. CCI and Winchester primers w/ 140 EH and 143 ELD-X. Still a bit slow but it'll work for me.


RY3JNPWh.jpg
I don’t think your speeds are horrible, more about what you should expect. I have a load right now in my 18” with dominus on there and definitely a well broken in barrel. With the 143eldx and 43g of h4350 I’m 2,670. This is my settled on hunting load now as I did play around with the 127 Barnes lrx which I still have plenty of for the future. That 143 load above though is so dam good that I’m sticking with it.
 
Finished up verifying some velocities today w/ 42.2 gr of H4350. CCI and Winchester primers w/ 140 EH and 143 ELD-X. Still a bit slow but it'll work for me.


RY3JNPWh.jpg
Those speeds are right at what my RPR with a 24 inch barrel gets with the ELD-X’s. My experience, is that the last few feet of velocity is rarely needed. However, not leaning too hard on the 6.5 leads to very long barrel life. I know, barrels are like tires, use them up and get a new one, but barrels are likes tires, they are not cheap. (Just dropped $250.00 on three bicycle tries and two tubes, so don’t tell me tires are cheap)

Most deer and even larger game and steel silhouettes, have a really hard time telling the difference between 2650FPS and 2575FPS, the windage down range is minuscule. However, your rifle and your wallet sure can. Think about it. Have an MPA, with 2250 rounds down the barrel, shooting 130’s with 44 grains of Superformance. Still putting the shots into sub half inch groups and hitting targets out to 1100 yards (Both in front of witnesses)