months ago a hider here said he was modding his aac mounts so they lock up tighter so there is little to no poi shift. are you still around?
Suppressors AAC miter mount mod for better POI shift
- Thread starter fastford
- Start date
Re: AAC miter mount mod for better POI shift
See or search "AAC 7.62 SDN-6 Wiggleage", or similar.
However, never did this on a miter-style mount.
See or search "AAC 7.62 SDN-6 Wiggleage", or similar.
However, never did this on a miter-style mount.
Re: AAC miter mount mod for better POI shift
This?
"First post and all, but...
This is EASY to fix. I fit all my mounts to my M4-2000 and
SDN-6.
For the 5/8-24 Blackout:
1) Cram a 3/8" wooden dowel in from the prong end.
2) Chuck other end of dowel into low speed drill press.
3) Beveled surface facing up @ you just downrange from teeth
or just behind threads is surface to be ground.
4) Use fine or medium EZLap, magnifying glasses, and a
sharpee to carefully grind back that edge.
5) Grind, check fit , grind 'till she locks up @ your desired
torque or tightness - I'm low round count per session,
not worried about can getting stuck on gun, and set mine up
fairly tight.
If your can is already loose, and you're already close to the next tooth, this takes 2 mins. If you need to advance 3/4 of the notch, then it takes some time.
Works GREAT for me. Accuracy improved, my POI shifts are nil,
and it turns a rattling "suboptimal accessory" into what it should have been in the first place.
BayouRobert"
This?
"First post and all, but...
This is EASY to fix. I fit all my mounts to my M4-2000 and
SDN-6.
For the 5/8-24 Blackout:
1) Cram a 3/8" wooden dowel in from the prong end.
2) Chuck other end of dowel into low speed drill press.
3) Beveled surface facing up @ you just downrange from teeth
or just behind threads is surface to be ground.
4) Use fine or medium EZLap, magnifying glasses, and a
sharpee to carefully grind back that edge.
5) Grind, check fit , grind 'till she locks up @ your desired
torque or tightness - I'm low round count per session,
not worried about can getting stuck on gun, and set mine up
fairly tight.
If your can is already loose, and you're already close to the next tooth, this takes 2 mins. If you need to advance 3/4 of the notch, then it takes some time.
Works GREAT for me. Accuracy improved, my POI shifts are nil,
and it turns a rattling "suboptimal accessory" into what it should have been in the first place.
BayouRobert"
Re: AAC miter mount mod for better POI shift
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2669308
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2669308
Re: AAC miter mount mod for better POI shift
lol oops. I was reading it and didn't refresh this one before I posted!
lol oops. I was reading it and didn't refresh this one before I posted!
Re: AAC miter mount mod for better POI shift
yep thats it!
now if we can get BayouRobert to take some pics doing it! )
yep thats it!
now if we can get BayouRobert to take some pics doing it! )
Re: AAC miter mount mod for better POI shift
So the problem isn't really with the teeth on the mount, it's an issue with how far down the can threads onto the mount. And by polishing that forward beveled edge, you allow the can to thread down onto the mount a little farther, so that it locks up solid on that next tooth.
I get it!
So the problem isn't really with the teeth on the mount, it's an issue with how far down the can threads onto the mount. And by polishing that forward beveled edge, you allow the can to thread down onto the mount a little farther, so that it locks up solid on that next tooth.
I get it!
Re: AAC miter mount mod for better POI shift
Now you got it...don't know how to post pic or video but set up with a drill press, as above, and it will be pretty straightforward.
Go real slow and remove the thinnest bit of material as you get close to jumping that next tooth. You want to set it up TIGHT,
because even though the opposing surfaces of the Blackout and
M4-2000 are nice hard steel, it will loosen ever so slightly with on/off, on/off, etc (especially if you're a bit OCD about cleaning carbon buildup off after shooting).
When testing fit of suppressor to blackout you'll need to hold the blackout in a crescent wrench, vise, or screw it onto your barrel so you can really put some torque on the suppressor to get it to just jump that next tooth.
Now you got it...don't know how to post pic or video but set up with a drill press, as above, and it will be pretty straightforward.
Go real slow and remove the thinnest bit of material as you get close to jumping that next tooth. You want to set it up TIGHT,
because even though the opposing surfaces of the Blackout and
M4-2000 are nice hard steel, it will loosen ever so slightly with on/off, on/off, etc (especially if you're a bit OCD about cleaning carbon buildup off after shooting).
When testing fit of suppressor to blackout you'll need to hold the blackout in a crescent wrench, vise, or screw it onto your barrel so you can really put some torque on the suppressor to get it to just jump that next tooth.
