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Accuracy International AT-X

Thanks Jorge, so a straight works if no bridge. When you tried did a larger profile was that also with internal weights?

I’d plan for a straight profile no internal weights and likely use external if needed for balance. Thoughts?

Negative. No internal weights. And will not be trying them. Barrel is heavy enough, along with bipod, to hold it down.

External weights are easy button.

If you’re not looking for something super heavy, and your rifle is 18lbs without any weights, I’d just add 2-3lbs of external weights and call it good.

My comp rifle is 22lbs I believe. 2lbs of that is in the elite iron bipod.
 
Negative. No internal weights. And will not be trying them. Barrel is heavy enough, along with bipod, to hold it down.

External weights are easy button.

If you’re not looking for something super heavy, and your rifle is 18lbs without any weights, I’d just add 2-3lbs of external weights and call it good.

My comp rifle is 22lbs I believe. 2lbs of that is in the elite iron bipod.
That’s what I needed bro. Thanks!
 
So, like some others, I've been having the bolt ride over the rounds with various magazines. With all the magazines, the bolt barely touches the mag follower. I think some of our mag catches must be a tad short. I tried Bravo6niner's solution in post 2337 of loosening the bolt catch assembly, inserting small shim strips and retightening the assembly. Looks like a good temporary fix, as all my rounds load fine now.
 
So, like some others, I've been having the bolt ride over the rounds with various magazines. With all the magazines, the bolt barely touches the mag follower. I think some of our mag catches must be a tad short. I tried Bravo6niner's solution in post 2337 of loosening the bolt catch assembly, inserting small shim strips and retightening the assembly. Looks like a good temporary fix, as all my rounds load fine now.

I had the same issue on my AX and AXMC running a short action adapter. I had to adjust the feed lips a bit.
 
So, like some others, I've been having the bolt ride over the rounds with various magazines. With all the magazines, the bolt barely touches the mag follower. I think some of our mag catches must be a tad short. I tried Bravo6niner's solution in post 2337 of loosening the bolt catch assembly, inserting small shim strips and retightening the assembly. Looks like a good temporary fix, as all my rounds load fine now.
Which gen do you have ? Gen1 or Gen2 ?
 
The next production run will start delivering later in March and will run through April and May. After that the next AT-X rifle with the new rear end will start delivering in July 2022. It will also be possible to purchase the new rear as an aftermarket accessory which can replace the current rear with the Allen screws, around the May/June timeframe.
We do not give any preference to our distributors regarding deliveries.
ETA on hinges?

It is less than ideal to have no hinge, Allen head cheek piece. Have to wrench on cheek piece to remove bolt
 
Euro has the long ones in stock.
asdf.JPG
 
Since the manual does not have torque specs, before I disassembled the AT-X I made witness marks on everything I could. On reassembly I double confirmed torque with Fix-It Sticks AND a Craftsman Torque wrench. I went to the range this afternoon, and the first five rounds printed ~1/2” group with no shift in zero from disassembling the rifle. I debated posting this, but I figured the torque specs could help others. I do not work for AI, and these are just what my rifle toque values were. Anything that does not have witness marks was torqued to hand tight + 1/4 turn.

16AEE06C-3E03-4086-8B43-65B7B6B55EED.jpeg


Stock to Rear interface
5mm
50 in lbs (no witness marks)

Stock to Chassis interface
4mm
45inlbs

Stock
5mm
50inlbs

Grip
3/16”
40inlbs (no witness marks)

Mag Catch
3mm
25 inlbs (no witness marks)

Bag rider
4mm
15inlbs

LOP /Comb Height
3mm
25inlbs

Lower Chassis screws
4mm
30 inlbs (no witness marks)

Flush cup
4mm & 2.5mm
10inlbs

Rear Action Screws
4mm
25inlbs

Front Action Screw
3mm
25inlbs

Trigger hanger
4mm
30inlbs

Keyslot
4mm
35inlbs
 
Man that looks sexy! @blbennett1288 🔥

I need to find some weights for mine. Everybody seems to be out of stock. 😞
Dependabilt weights are in stock


If you have to have the WIN-TAC weights, I’d call whoever you ordered it from and tell them that you would like some weights. They typically have them in stock and only sell them to people who purchased the rifle from them.
 
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Dependabilt weights are in stock


If you have to have the WIN-TAC weights, I’d call whoever you ordered it from and tell them that you would like some weights. They typically have them in stock and only sell them to people who purchased the rifle from them.
Yeah been looking at the dependa ones. I have those for my AX and like them. I didn’t get my ATX from a vendor. Had a buddy that got the first run and then didn’t want it. I’ll call MH and EO tomorrow though. Thanks.
 
Finally had it show up today in time for some range time this weekend.

I’m not entirely sure if this mount is going to work out, but we’ll see. The cheekpiece is currently bottomed out with the 4601, so I’d suspect the 4602 might be necessary, especially if I can add the fore end bridge.


B9B4CBC0-A2B6-4CA5-B02D-A6EBAC110433.jpeg
 
I’m not entirely sure if this mount is going to work out, but we’ll see. The cheekpiece is currently bottomed out with the 4601, so I’d suspect the 4602 might be necessary, especially if I can add the fore end bridge.
You guys may be getting NV bridges for a different reason, but for me the utility is to be able to attach a top rail (for NV clip-ons). In which case one also needs the tall action rail and a 1.5” mount to line up with most clip-ons. That should alleviate any cheekpiece height issues, but it does raise the optical axis height quite a bit (ala AX and AXMC/SR).
 
You guys may be getting NV bridges for a different reason, but for me the utility is to be able to attach a top rail (for NV clip-ons). In which case one also needs the tall action rail and a 1.5” mount to line up with most clip-ons. That should alleviate any cheekpiece height issues, but it does raise the optical axis height quite a bit (ala AX and AXMC/SR).
At least it isn’t as high as the Cadex duel stike chassis. 🤣 it’s like installing your optic at the top of a ladder
 
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You guys may be getting NV bridges for a different reason, but for me the utility is to be able to attach a top rail (for NV clip-ons). In which case one also needs the tall action rail and a 1.5” mount to line up with most clip-ons. That should alleviate any cheekpiece height issues, but it does raise the optical axis height quite a bit (ala AX and AXMC/SR).
Well, yeah, there's that discussion, too.

The usage of NV/thermal clip-ons here is pretty much non-existent, being in Canada, so it would be for purely aesthetic purposes.

At least it isn’t as high as the Cadex duel stike chassis. 🤣 it’s like installing your optic at the top of a ladder
Need a neck extension for one of those monstrosities.
 
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At least it isn’t as high as the Cadex duel stike chassis. 🤣 it’s like installing your optic at the top of a ladder
That’s true, though it looks kinda odd without the picatinny rail up front. Which is of course out of stock everywhere.
 

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Never been so organised for a rifle. Shout out to Sporting Services UK for delivering the goods to Australia faster than our domestic services over here ATM….and the HRD kits are literally half the price too. (And rare over here) Can’t wait for the AT-X with a couple of extra barrels (6BR and 308) cheers.
 
Did up a mag extension conversion tonite. Functions well so far. 12rds fit nice with a touch of room to spare. Used an altus +2 extension
How much of a pain in the ass was it cutting off the bottom plate? Makes me a little nervous cutting off the bottom of a perfectly good magazine. Hahha
 
How much of a pain in the ass was it cutting off the bottom plate? Makes me a little nervous cutting off the bottom of a perfectly good magazine. Hahha

IMG_8123.jpg



5 min of Dremel work and you're done. And u dont cut the bottom off, u basically cut out a hole a little bit bigger than the last follower spring leaf and put it back inside and make sure the spring goes down through the hole.
 
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I just cut the welds and took the whole plate off. Cut some slots to bend out two new tabs and then trimmed everything up flush. Doing it this way leaves everything inside the mag body flush and smooth. After doing this one I think if I made a couple jigs you could modify a mag in 10 minutes
 
I just cut the welds and took the whole plate off. Cut some slots to bend out two new tabs and then trimmed everything up flush. Doing it this way leaves everything inside the mag body flush and smooth. After doing this one I think if I made a couple jigs you could modify a mag in 10 minutes
Make a “how to” video on YouTube. 😂😂😂
 
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