- Thread starter black5.3
- Start date
Are these modifications necessary? I've been researching this annealer and it seems gtg.
I don't know if necessary is the right word, but the regulator and volt meter sure make it a lot easier to keep repeatable results over the long term. Getting the flame and time consistent from session to session is much easier when you can check the PSI and voltage number and just run it. I'd do them over again if I was starting fresh.
For me the $15 to swap in an articulated arm versus the very basic torch holder setup the unit ships with was a no-brainer.
Thanks for the info.
I've seen the part but I don't see a video online of how the torch is adjusted with the new arm. I think this may be my Father's Day gift
I've seen the part but I don't see a video online of how the torch is adjusted with the new arm. I think this may be my Father's Day gift
Once you have the arm in hand it's fairly obvious how it works and it should take maybe 2 minutes to attache and adjust. Here are pics of mine for reference. Yes my reloading area was messy when I took these.
Well I just ordered mine. Time to start the mods.
I would say the regulator was a huge mod because without it I didnt get consistent flame. You would get it all dialed in then after 50pcs or so your flame wouldnt be the same. After installing the regulator you can set your PSI and it stays there, creating a very consistent flame through the annealing process.
The articulating arm was huge, made adjusting the torch position a breeze. Lastly, the torch upgrade itself lowered my annealing times. I have like 3 torches now but one of them is leaps and bounds above the rest.
The articulating arm was huge, made adjusting the torch position a breeze. Lastly, the torch upgrade itself lowered my annealing times. I have like 3 torches now but one of them is leaps and bounds above the rest.
So which torch would you recommend after your testing?
As Padom has already started in post #s 3 ,26 and 40 Bernzomatic TS839T for which as of this morning harryepstein.com had one left .
Any thoughts on this torch... as the TS839t seems to be unavailable with my search. Also, hoping to not spend 80 bucks on a regulator.
https://www.amazon.com/Bernzomatic-...-Attachment/dp/B0019CQL60/ref=dp_ob_title_def
thanks,
https://www.amazon.com/Bernzomatic-...-Attachment/dp/B0019CQL60/ref=dp_ob_title_def
thanks,
Just thought I'd share if you're having trouble with the case not continually turning on the bottom blue wheel. I got mine last week and set it up. I noticed the cases weren't spinning much on the bottom wheel and emailed Jeff at annealeeze.
He said to clean the bottom wheel with alcohol, carb or brake cleaner with a cotton swab or patch. That should help with the spinning issue.
He said to clean the bottom wheel with alcohol, carb or brake cleaner with a cotton swab or patch. That should help with the spinning issue.
Do said wheels have painters tape on them, or something else? Appreciate the tip.
Mine will get dusty from all the corn cob tumbling media. I just lick my finger and hold it against the spinning wheel to wipe off any dust. Seems to work fine.
I added a pwm to mine without cutting any wires just made a stand sits rite in top . That as well as the goss regulator make for great consistency. Just a note on the goss ep70g regulator. It comes with a 9/16 - 8 left hand thread output. I removed the fitting from the regulator allowing the use of any 1/4 npt fitting. THIS WILL MAKE LIFE MUCH EASIER. Works great extremely consistent and still under 400$ invested
I ended up getting 2 small 1 gallon propane tanks off Amazon cheap then got them filled which was like $5 to fill.
I just got an Annealeez (second generation?) and have been having an interesting time with it. I have several 20lb propane tanks laying around and wanted to make that adaptation, so I bought the Goss regulator and low pressure dial, drilled out the hose connecting pieces and started experimenting. I just couldn't get more than a tiny nubbin of flame coming out of the original torch head at peak pressure on the regulator. I just happened to have a TS8000 torch and thought I'd give it a try. On regular 1lb propane tanks at high pressure, the TS8000 makes a raging monster flame. However, when I hooked it up to the regulator and set it about 3-6 psi, it actually works really well. Very soft pure blue flame, no flickering and it looks like very even heating with no focused hot inner flame at all. I wonder if this torch replaces the swirl flame model that seems to not be around any more. I have employed a magic arm mount with clamp as the self igniting TS8000 is quite a bit larger than the UL2817 torch head supplied with the Annealeez.
I'm really just getting started with this tool, but the TS8000 is the only torch head I've tried that I can employ with the Goss pressure regulator. The 2817 torch head works great with the 20lb tank and a simple adapter hose, but lacks the precise pressure controls I was hoping to employ via the Goss. I have not taken a drill bit to my current UL2817 as it is a replacement for one I destroyed attempting to improve gas flow. Luckily, they aren't expensive. Perhaps there's a mod for the UL2817 that would make it function in the 0-15psi (or even 0-75psi) range as others have suggested, but I've not found it yet.
I've been enjoying tinkering with the Annealeez. In addition to the 20lb tank explorations, I've added a volt meter as well as the mentioned magic arm and clamp, which are both useful mods. Also, I've found passing the extension hose through the front panel looks like a nice idea at a distance, but makes it difficult to adjust the torch in certain positions. My original power source went out but Jeff kindly supplied me with another. While I was waiting for the replacement, I discovered that certain older hard drives in my collection use a similar 12v power supply, so I was able to keep working with the tool. So far, I've neither ruined too much brass nor burned down the house, so it could be far worse...
I've just started reading this forum and find it quite informative. Thanks for reading my contribution.
I'm really just getting started with this tool, but the TS8000 is the only torch head I've tried that I can employ with the Goss pressure regulator. The 2817 torch head works great with the 20lb tank and a simple adapter hose, but lacks the precise pressure controls I was hoping to employ via the Goss. I have not taken a drill bit to my current UL2817 as it is a replacement for one I destroyed attempting to improve gas flow. Luckily, they aren't expensive. Perhaps there's a mod for the UL2817 that would make it function in the 0-15psi (or even 0-75psi) range as others have suggested, but I've not found it yet.
I've been enjoying tinkering with the Annealeez. In addition to the 20lb tank explorations, I've added a volt meter as well as the mentioned magic arm and clamp, which are both useful mods. Also, I've found passing the extension hose through the front panel looks like a nice idea at a distance, but makes it difficult to adjust the torch in certain positions. My original power source went out but Jeff kindly supplied me with another. While I was waiting for the replacement, I discovered that certain older hard drives in my collection use a similar 12v power supply, so I was able to keep working with the tool. So far, I've neither ruined too much brass nor burned down the house, so it could be far worse...
I've just started reading this forum and find it quite informative. Thanks for reading my contribution.
Is there is a trick to remove the existing gauge and fittings? Before I totally reef on them, I wanted to check to see if there is a trick. I’m sure there is a sealant, can I hear it up as if it was red picture? Any advise would be helpful.
Thank you
Thank you
I ended up applying a little heat to the fitting I was trying to remove. The gauge came off without much more than firm pressure on a big wrench. The little hose adapter was somewhat tighter but I used a little torch to carefully apply some heat and eventually it came out. The tricky part is holding the regulator body and not damaging it. I have some lead jaws for my bench vise that did the job, but regular soft jaws weren't firm enough.
I just wanted to say thanks to everyone on this thread. I am a bit of a lurker and decided to get into handloading recently. I am currently accumulating equipment and was having a hard time deciding on what to do regarding case annealing. With the help of this thread (particularly the improvements described here) I feel that a modified Annealeez is right for me. I just ordered one and will be making many of the mods listed here.
@padom can you suggest a new torch for this setup? getting ready to finally pull the trigger. Also the 15PSI gauge is out, but im guessing any decent 15psi gauge is fine.
https://www.amazon.com/2-1-Oil-Fill...8&qid=1545959694&sr=8-6&keywords=15+psi+gauge
that work for the gauge?
https://www.amazon.com/2-1-Oil-Fill...8&qid=1545959694&sr=8-6&keywords=15+psi+gauge
that work for the gauge?
Others were mentioning new torches being essentially more effecient. No issue running the one that i have now, just want to know if there is a decent one that is cheap to replace it. If not im not worried and will continue to use the torch from 1980 lol. The stock torch on mine stopped working i believe the filter go clogged, swapped it with the torch on my dads hand me down torch kit from 1980 and right back to working like a charm.
Correct, the new torches we tested are WAY more efficient and effective than the torch that comes with it. They are hotter with a better flame design which means more consistent heat control to the case and less time in the flame.
So both the swirl and newer model we have been using are no longer made. Looks like the new replacement is the TS99. I would buy one of those and see hot it is. Someones gotta be the pioneer. lol. I still have all 3 of mine. The original, the swirl and the TS839T which is the best.
So both the swirl and newer model we have been using are no longer made. Looks like the new replacement is the TS99. I would buy one of those and see hot it is. Someones gotta be the pioneer. lol. I still have all 3 of mine. The original, the swirl and the TS839T which is the best.
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so what you're saying is you have 66% more then you need while us new guys have 0%! ordered the TS99T oddly enough home depot had the best price but wont be here till late january. I will time some 308 and 223 with the stock torch head and the ts99t and see if there is a difference.
Also for the PWM is it self explanatory how to rig it up?
No, Im saying I have the original torch, the 2nd one we all tried then 1 of the best one. So I have exactly 1 of 1.
I dont remember the wiring its been so long but yea I think I soldered on the motor wire and used the switch and display it came wired up with.
Worthington, Goss and TurboTorch make similar propane torches to the Bernzomatic torches. Unfortunately, a lot of the mfgs have updated their torches to the new models with built in igniters which may or may not be too bulky for the Annealeez machines. You can get a Goss similar to the 839 at Amazon for $65+.
Goss GHT-100 Torch
Or a TurboTorch for ~$59.00
TurboTorch STK-9
Goss GHT-100 Torch
Or a TurboTorch for ~$59.00
TurboTorch STK-9
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Quick update on my Annealeez mods as well as a question for those who have experience with this annealer
I received the 2nd (current) gen model a few weeks back. This is my first annealer. I did most of the mods from this thread. I installed the PWM motor controller directly into the main chassis by cutting a square hole for the control unit/display and an extra hole for the on/off toggle button (2nd gen case does not have on/off switch). I was confused by one video on YouTube about the PWM installation as that video had it somehow piggy backed onto the stock controller. That video didn't show all of the wiring so I am not sure what was going on there. For me it was clear that you don't need any of the old controller hardware at all. I removed the old controller and potentiometer (which was the wrong value) and used everything that came with the eBay controller (controller, on/off switch and potentiometer). Just wire up the pig tails from the power and motor and off you go! The upgraded motor controller works great and I love it. Perfect for repeatability.
I also have the external gas regulator and associated adapters to run off a 20 lb tank. I am using the stock hose that came with the unit, so I had to remove the schrader valve from the new adapter that was screwed into the regulator as well as one end of the hose. At the moment all I have is the stock torch head. As reported by others, with the schrader valves in place, I couldn't get any flow, but even with them removed, flow seems pretty restricted. Someone above talks about 6 psi working for them. I don't even think mine can maintain a flame at that low of pressure. I am running at least 20+ psi at the moment. Cranking up the pressure does not have large changes on the flame size. Any comments on that? I am looking to try out the Goss torch head mentioned directly above. I have that on order.
I also am using the magic arm. I am not yet sure I like it. First, given the layout of the front of the 2nd generation unit, real estate is limited on the bottom right, so it gets crowded with the controller display, switch, speed knob and inevitably the magic arm. While I can get the magic arm situated, it seems a bit finicky with respect to keeping it tight enough so that it doesn't accidently move. It's doable, but I wonder if there is still yet a better solution. The magic arm probably has more range of freedom than it needs, which makes it harder than it needs to be. Multiple places it needs to be "tight". I am wondering if there is something available that is similar to how the torch adjustment is done on the "Bench Source" annealing machine. That is a single rod with a single threaded method to clamp and tighten. That is a more elegant and simple solution.
While over all I am VERY happy with what I have now, I do have one issue I need to resolve. I have noticed that during rotation of the bottom wheel that I will have some spots in which the brass stops rotating for .5 to 1 second and then rotates again. Initially I think part of it was some rough edges (probably laser cut) on the adjustable paddle that helps hold the brass up against the wheel. I polished the edge until I could feel no rough spots and in general polished the entire face that touches the brass with a Scotchbright pad. That improved the situation, but didn't remove all of the slippage. It happens on almost all brass (currently 6.5CM and 308 is all I have tried). I expect it is poor friction on the wheel. Any suggestions on how to solve this? I expect there is some process/treatment to "freshen up" the "tack" of wheel.
I received the 2nd (current) gen model a few weeks back. This is my first annealer. I did most of the mods from this thread. I installed the PWM motor controller directly into the main chassis by cutting a square hole for the control unit/display and an extra hole for the on/off toggle button (2nd gen case does not have on/off switch). I was confused by one video on YouTube about the PWM installation as that video had it somehow piggy backed onto the stock controller. That video didn't show all of the wiring so I am not sure what was going on there. For me it was clear that you don't need any of the old controller hardware at all. I removed the old controller and potentiometer (which was the wrong value) and used everything that came with the eBay controller (controller, on/off switch and potentiometer). Just wire up the pig tails from the power and motor and off you go! The upgraded motor controller works great and I love it. Perfect for repeatability.
I also have the external gas regulator and associated adapters to run off a 20 lb tank. I am using the stock hose that came with the unit, so I had to remove the schrader valve from the new adapter that was screwed into the regulator as well as one end of the hose. At the moment all I have is the stock torch head. As reported by others, with the schrader valves in place, I couldn't get any flow, but even with them removed, flow seems pretty restricted. Someone above talks about 6 psi working for them. I don't even think mine can maintain a flame at that low of pressure. I am running at least 20+ psi at the moment. Cranking up the pressure does not have large changes on the flame size. Any comments on that? I am looking to try out the Goss torch head mentioned directly above. I have that on order.
I also am using the magic arm. I am not yet sure I like it. First, given the layout of the front of the 2nd generation unit, real estate is limited on the bottom right, so it gets crowded with the controller display, switch, speed knob and inevitably the magic arm. While I can get the magic arm situated, it seems a bit finicky with respect to keeping it tight enough so that it doesn't accidently move. It's doable, but I wonder if there is still yet a better solution. The magic arm probably has more range of freedom than it needs, which makes it harder than it needs to be. Multiple places it needs to be "tight". I am wondering if there is something available that is similar to how the torch adjustment is done on the "Bench Source" annealing machine. That is a single rod with a single threaded method to clamp and tighten. That is a more elegant and simple solution.
While over all I am VERY happy with what I have now, I do have one issue I need to resolve. I have noticed that during rotation of the bottom wheel that I will have some spots in which the brass stops rotating for .5 to 1 second and then rotates again. Initially I think part of it was some rough edges (probably laser cut) on the adjustable paddle that helps hold the brass up against the wheel. I polished the edge until I could feel no rough spots and in general polished the entire face that touches the brass with a Scotchbright pad. That improved the situation, but didn't remove all of the slippage. It happens on almost all brass (currently 6.5CM and 308 is all I have tried). I expect it is poor friction on the wheel. Any suggestions on how to solve this? I expect there is some process/treatment to "freshen up" the "tack" of wheel.
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Do you have all of yoir balves all the way open when adjusting the regulator? I leave all of mine open and adjust the regulator to control the intensity of the flame. And when im done i just cut off the valve that controls gas flow from the tank and let the flame burn out. I also had to bend the metal tray that is directly beside the case as it is turning on the wheel. My 30-06 cases were kinda wedging in there and not rotating smoothly. It did not affect the function of the annealer on smaller brass.
So I have a ball valve just after the regulator and one on the torch head. I keep both wide open and just use the regulator to... regulate! I turn mine off just as you do. That is a good idea about bending that plate. the brass rests against it and the wheel. I can imagine you want more weight on the wheel side so that there is more friction (and consistent rotation). I "think" I read somewhere (can't remember where) about how to clean and/or surface the wheels to ensure good contact. I forgot to mention that my brass is very clean via wet tumbler.
So what did you do for those cases that don't spin for a bit. It "looks" like painters tape on the wheel, would really like to know what to do to keep them rotating. I have not had the issues with the disposable propane tanks and contaminants coming out of the torch.
Keep the blue wheel clean, wipe it down periodically with a damp rag or whatever. Keep the metal lip that the cases rotate against clean also. That works for me.
Thanks everyone for the tips. I had mentioned earlier that I read "somewhere" about how to clean the wheel. So... it was actually in this thread on this page. Look above for the post by TX_Punisher. He mentions getting instructions from the Annealeez manufacture to use a solvent like alcohol, carb or brake cleaner. I have plenty of that as well as just a clean damp cloth mentioned above. I will try these in order this weekend as well as continue to play around with my "test" brass. Part of this is also getting familiar with using Templiaq.
I also struggle with where to paint it on. Most say inside the neck, which makes a ton of sense as it should be measuring the temperature of the brass vs. the flame itself, but so far it's not super easy to monitor inside the neck. While others (including some manufactures of annealing machines) say to paint on the outside of the neck/shoulder itself. If on the outside, it is much easier to monitor. If on the outside, I suspect what you really look for is the boundary between melted and unmelted to define how far down the case the annealing goes. While I think inside the neck is likely technically more correct, I suspect in the end, either method will work fine assuming you know what to look for with respect to over signs of annealing.
I also struggle with where to paint it on. Most say inside the neck, which makes a ton of sense as it should be measuring the temperature of the brass vs. the flame itself, but so far it's not super easy to monitor inside the neck. While others (including some manufactures of annealing machines) say to paint on the outside of the neck/shoulder itself. If on the outside, it is much easier to monitor. If on the outside, I suspect what you really look for is the boundary between melted and unmelted to define how far down the case the annealing goes. While I think inside the neck is likely technically more correct, I suspect in the end, either method will work fine assuming you know what to look for with respect to over signs of annealing.
Quick update...
I tried the Goss GHT-100 torch that was listed a few posts above. It is a VERY nice torch head, but I don't think it's a good fit for this application. It has a few things going against it. The torch head itself is nearly 9" long (which is roughly twice as long as the head that comes with the unit). The flame from it is very nice, but nearly six inches long itself and very hot even at low settings. I am able to get a nice flame even at 4 PSI. I ran some tests by hand holding the torch and given how hot the flame was, I found it was harder to get a repeatable and consistent results. It's hard to aim and heats a wider area, not to mention it would be a nightmare to mount.
On a related note, given I can run this at 4 PSI via the regulator setup, I don't have a restriction in my hose setup. It must be the jet nozzle in the stock torch head. I am likely to stop fiddling with spending money on trying to find a better torch head. I was able to get good results with the stock torch head and will focus on just that. This Goss head will find use otherwise as it is nice and well built.
I also cleaned the lower wheel surface with a wipe of alcohol and cases are rotating just fine now.
I tried the Goss GHT-100 torch that was listed a few posts above. It is a VERY nice torch head, but I don't think it's a good fit for this application. It has a few things going against it. The torch head itself is nearly 9" long (which is roughly twice as long as the head that comes with the unit). The flame from it is very nice, but nearly six inches long itself and very hot even at low settings. I am able to get a nice flame even at 4 PSI. I ran some tests by hand holding the torch and given how hot the flame was, I found it was harder to get a repeatable and consistent results. It's hard to aim and heats a wider area, not to mention it would be a nightmare to mount.
On a related note, given I can run this at 4 PSI via the regulator setup, I don't have a restriction in my hose setup. It must be the jet nozzle in the stock torch head. I am likely to stop fiddling with spending money on trying to find a better torch head. I was able to get good results with the stock torch head and will focus on just that. This Goss head will find use otherwise as it is nice and well built.
I also cleaned the lower wheel surface with a wipe of alcohol and cases are rotating just fine now.
Just ordered my Annealeez today, and after reading this thread, I would like the convenience of having mine running off a 20lb propane tank. But I need some guidance.
I see people talking about this Goss regulator, seems kinda spendy for $80.
Is there any reason I couldn't use the below item?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GR9T2H3/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A2KBKE1A991P4A&psc=1
And hook it up to the annealeez with these two fittings?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008E5CMMM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQN4IS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
Also as far as torches go, has anyone tried this yet?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019CQL60/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
I only plan on annealing 1 caliber for now, so I'm thinking of holding off on the articulating arm and potentiometer upgrades as I don't anticipate making adjustments once it's dialed in.
Am I understanding these modifications correctly?
Someone please school me.
I see people talking about this Goss regulator, seems kinda spendy for $80.
Is there any reason I couldn't use the below item?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GR9T2H3/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A2KBKE1A991P4A&psc=1
And hook it up to the annealeez with these two fittings?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008E5CMMM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQN4IS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
Also as far as torches go, has anyone tried this yet?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019CQL60/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
I only plan on annealing 1 caliber for now, so I'm thinking of holding off on the articulating arm and potentiometer upgrades as I don't anticipate making adjustments once it's dialed in.
Am I understanding these modifications correctly?
Someone please school me.
I took a quick look at your combo of regulator, hose, adapter, etc. I "think" that would work. Not sure I understand the 60 PSI gauge with a 0-30 PSI regulation range. Maybe it is to handle pressure spikes when the valve is opened (which I am not seeing with my tank). I think the idea of swapping out the gauge with one that has a lower range was to allow better accuracy on adjustment. As to the torch, my only comment is that it is roughly 12" long so it may be unwieldy to mount and use. I expect that with a long torch head it will put a good bit of leverage on the mounting system and try to rotate it out of position and potentially create flame pointing issues. But i guess that depends upon how tight you torque down the stock mounting setup.
Thanks for looking at that.
I placed an order for that stuff today, also got my shipping notification for the annealeez, it will be here on Friday, which is unexpected since I placed the order Monday and their website says 4-5 week lead time.
I should have a chance to see if that hookup I bought works this weekend, but I'll be waiting on my tempilaq to show up next week before I start to anneal.
I'll be sure to update on how the gas hook up works out.
I was able to get the system running with the parts I listed above off a 20lb tank. I did experience issues trying to control the flame however. I had to replace the needle orifice thing at the bottom of the torch head with one from another torch I had laying around to get enough flow with the torch head that came with the Annealeez.
The torch I linked above is really nice but the flame is much too large for this setup. The torch that came with the unit made an ideal flame but didn't allow for much in the way of adjustment with the setup, and the flame seemed weaker versus hooked up directly to a small cylinder. The regulator adjusted pressure great up to 40lbs, but between 20-40lbs but the flame wouldn't change within this range, and below 20lbs it was much too weak.
I'll have to do some more tinkering or try another torch. Tempilaq should be getting delivered today, so I should be able to get this thing dialed in.
The torch I linked above is really nice but the flame is much too large for this setup. The torch that came with the unit made an ideal flame but didn't allow for much in the way of adjustment with the setup, and the flame seemed weaker versus hooked up directly to a small cylinder. The regulator adjusted pressure great up to 40lbs, but between 20-40lbs but the flame wouldn't change within this range, and below 20lbs it was much too weak.
I'll have to do some more tinkering or try another torch. Tempilaq should be getting delivered today, so I should be able to get this thing dialed in.
I put together an alternative torch holder setup. It may not be for everyone as it is not 100% off the shelf and requires some manual crafting. The root of this is that the stock setup is fine, but not easy to adjust. The Magic Arm setup is highly adjustable, but (in my opinion) bulky and unwieldy to use. It works, but it could be better. As I mentioned in an earlier post, I like the style of torch holder used on the “Bench Source” machine. It uses rods with adjustable clamps. So I started to dig to see how to replicate something similar to the Bench Source setup.
The core of this is a 15mm rod support/rigging system that is apparently common for professional camera systems. It’s a Lego like adjustable framework for mounting stuff. What I am using is a single 2.5” rod that is attached directly to the Annealeez via a ¼-20 bolt matched with 90 degree clamp that connects the torch to the rod. In many ways it replicates the stock setup, but is much easier to use and adjust via the superior adjustment system.
The main issue is that the clamp is designed to use a 15mm rod and the torch neck is 7/16”. So some type of sleeve is required to use expand the torch neck diameter to 15mm. I played a bit with trying to craft one with easy to obtain material (such as a section of copper pipe, brass shim stock, etc. with the goal of providing an easy DIY solution. But it was proving to be difficult to get it to work. Plus, I have a lathe so it’s hard to screw around with a less than optimal solution knowing I can just machine a sleeve that fits perfectly.
I ended up creating a Delrin sleeve that is 7/16” ID and 15mm OD with a shoulder on one end. The tip of the torch can be unscrewed and the sleeve slipped on. The stock torch head is a “swan neck” style, so to move around the bend I cut a lengthwise slot into the sleeve using a Dremel. This gives it enough flexibility to slip over the bend, but to snap back into shape for snug fit.
Below are the links to the rod and clamp on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V9IZP3O
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0785GB54V
Below are some photos of the parts individually and as installed. Note, I was tweaking the sleeve as I went, so one photo doesn’t show the slot cut in the sleeve, while one photo does. The 90 degree clamp has some level of offset so depending upon how you mount it, you can move the torch closer or further away. You can also have the torch over or under the rod. If you find a straight neck torch, then this could allow for easy flame distance adjustment in/out. But for me, the flame distance with the stock torch worked out very well as it replicates the stock distance. The clamp uses a lever arm/wingnut style adjustment, so it’s very easy to loosen, adjust and tighten. Once tight it is solid.
2.5" 15mm rod with 1/4-20 thread...
Delrin sleeve (slot not cut yet in this photo)...
Sleeve and Clamp...
Sleeve (with slot cut into it) and clamp on torch neck (Note, Torch tip was unscrewed from neck to allow sleeve installation and clamp is not fully on the sleeve)...
Installed on my Annealeez...
At this point I think I am done tweaking my Annealeez. I feel like it does what I need with the digital motor controller, external 20lb tank/regulator setup and this new torch arm. Lastly, as you can see in the photos, I have the v2 (or current) style Annealeez. I see no reason this shouldn’t work on the older version especially as it is much less bulky than the Magic Arm.
The core of this is a 15mm rod support/rigging system that is apparently common for professional camera systems. It’s a Lego like adjustable framework for mounting stuff. What I am using is a single 2.5” rod that is attached directly to the Annealeez via a ¼-20 bolt matched with 90 degree clamp that connects the torch to the rod. In many ways it replicates the stock setup, but is much easier to use and adjust via the superior adjustment system.
The main issue is that the clamp is designed to use a 15mm rod and the torch neck is 7/16”. So some type of sleeve is required to use expand the torch neck diameter to 15mm. I played a bit with trying to craft one with easy to obtain material (such as a section of copper pipe, brass shim stock, etc. with the goal of providing an easy DIY solution. But it was proving to be difficult to get it to work. Plus, I have a lathe so it’s hard to screw around with a less than optimal solution knowing I can just machine a sleeve that fits perfectly.
I ended up creating a Delrin sleeve that is 7/16” ID and 15mm OD with a shoulder on one end. The tip of the torch can be unscrewed and the sleeve slipped on. The stock torch head is a “swan neck” style, so to move around the bend I cut a lengthwise slot into the sleeve using a Dremel. This gives it enough flexibility to slip over the bend, but to snap back into shape for snug fit.
Below are the links to the rod and clamp on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V9IZP3O
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0785GB54V
Below are some photos of the parts individually and as installed. Note, I was tweaking the sleeve as I went, so one photo doesn’t show the slot cut in the sleeve, while one photo does. The 90 degree clamp has some level of offset so depending upon how you mount it, you can move the torch closer or further away. You can also have the torch over or under the rod. If you find a straight neck torch, then this could allow for easy flame distance adjustment in/out. But for me, the flame distance with the stock torch worked out very well as it replicates the stock distance. The clamp uses a lever arm/wingnut style adjustment, so it’s very easy to loosen, adjust and tighten. Once tight it is solid.
2.5" 15mm rod with 1/4-20 thread...
Delrin sleeve (slot not cut yet in this photo)...
Sleeve and Clamp...
Sleeve (with slot cut into it) and clamp on torch neck (Note, Torch tip was unscrewed from neck to allow sleeve installation and clamp is not fully on the sleeve)...
Installed on my Annealeez...
At this point I think I am done tweaking my Annealeez. I feel like it does what I need with the digital motor controller, external 20lb tank/regulator setup and this new torch arm. Lastly, as you can see in the photos, I have the v2 (or current) style Annealeez. I see no reason this shouldn’t work on the older version especially as it is much less bulky than the Magic Arm.
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