Rifle Scopes Any cons to Leupold and Redfield twist and lock type rings and bases?

MG-70

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Jan 6, 2009
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I'm thinking of keeping it simple on a Rem 700 30-06 sporter setup, and was wondering whether there were any cons to the old school twist-in rings and bases?

I'm thinking a stainless one piece steel base, haven't decided on optics, but probably a 4-12X Leupold or Nikon.

Anyone know the amount of cant in the Leupold "long range" bases?

I've seen an ad for a used set where the seller states "ring a bit loose", or something to that affect. Is it normal for the rings to loosen up on the bases and is there a fix for that?

Thanks for any and all helpful info.
 
I have used them in the past on a .308 hunting set-up without a problem. It was abused a fare bit as late hunting seasons in the mtns make for slick conditions, hence falls, somewhat regularly. It never lost zero even with a couple rough drops. That said, i am going to try the Talley lightweight one piece set-ups on my new '06 hunter for next year. Seen regularly on rifles on here that are used almost year round for some kind of hunting an havent heard them complain. Figure they might work for a simple fella like me plus they are fair priced. No idea on the cant as i was only building up a huntig rig for out to 300 yds.
 
If you are talking about a dual dovetail set up, I think they are great on spotter rifles. I personally don't care for the older front dovetail with rear windage screw type.

Cons on the dual dovetail are probably mostly related to ring spacing. If you have a short tube scope, you may not be able to position the scope exactly where you want it for best eye relief. Longer scopes are usually fine. One word of caution on the installation: Make sure the two rings are set up exactly in line with each other. You should either use a one piece aluminum bar or the two piece style with the flat ends toward center. That way, you can tell that they are parallel, not just pointing in the same direction. Obviously, turn them in with the bar or a wrench, not the scope. When you are satisfied that the rings are aligned, lay the scope in there gently and make sure the gap is nice and even before putting the tops on the rings.

As far as loosening, I've noticed that if the rings are installed and removed several times, the dovetail loosens up. I probably wouldn't re-use them more than 2-3 times. On the initial installation, they are quite tight and I've never had one loosen just from shooting.

Hope this helps.
 
Thank you both for the feedback.

MJY65, actually, I was thinking about the ones with the windage screws on the rear base. Are there any special concerns about those?

The Talley's are nice, I have to admit, but I'm looking for steel rings.

Thanks again!
 
If you want a good value in steel base and rings go Warne. They will take a bit to set up, but they are solid and made in the US.

If going for the Leupold just as a classic set, get the dual dovetail. The rear windage deal is fine if you have a receiver that is not tapped correctly, as you can set the scope correctly to be parallel with the bore. If you do not set that rear windage correctly, zero will be fine at 100, but will walk right or left as you move out further.

The long range base is 15 moa.
 
MJY65, actually, I was thinking about the ones with the windage screws on the rear base. Are there any special concerns about those?

Actually, I have had poor luck with those. It's tough to keep the windage screws from loosening under recoil. Also, as you adjust the windage screw, you are applying force to the scope tube to turn the front dovetail.
 
Thanks guys! You're right, I was going for the classic look, but for the sake of practicality I may just use some steel bases by Warne or Leupold and one of the sets of Warne rings I already have lying around (I'm a fan of them too). If I decide to drop the action in a nice shiny wood stock down the road, I may get some dual twist-in bases and rings just for S&G.

Thanks and a good week to all!
 
You are mounting the scope wrong.

Your method uses the thin aluminum tube which can bend or worse break the scope.

Actually, it's not my method. It's the one described in the instructional video from Leupold. After he has the ring caps torqued down, he describes using the windage screws to get the gross adjustment while bore sighting.

I agree with you. This places stress on the scope. I haven't used this type of rings in 20 years, but was just trying to point out a potential problem to the OP.
 
+1 on what has been said regarding the windage adjustable mounts. I've had weird side to side shifts with them no matter how much I tighten the rear screws or loctite them. It's minimal though but I have gotten it and its not wind.

dfoosking uses the same method I use with them only I mechanically center the scopes windage and check it looking through the bore at 25 yards or so to get it right. Even with a 1" bar the ring seems to tighten with counter clockwise tension when you crank down on them so I do it with the bar in and then I lap it after they're tight.

With the slop in tolerances on R700's I never use anything but a one piece base of some sort on R700's so I can bed it easily. Two piece bases can be bedded but it can be a pain.

Check out the DNZ mounts as well, they are rock solid and one piece. I've put those mounts through hell.
 
I don't like them because they are essentially a one-use proposition. The rings are held steady by the friction of the ring against the base; you are deforming and even loosing a small amount of metal when you twist the ring into position. I guess they hold fine. I won't use them because of the friction fit. I've mounted a Redfield (double dove tail/windage adjustment screw on rear ring) system for a friend. I don't know where he scavenged them from, but I could turn the front and rear scope ring into place without the aid of lever or scope body. The rings and base had obviously been moved from rifle to rifle for a number of years, and the result was a loose, sloppy fit where the dovetails had been turned into the bases.