Anyone ever go the Form 1 suppressor route?

[darkfader]

I had one take 5 months. Lol. Had my US representative get involved and had the stamp about 8 days later. Otherwise, my fastest was 11 days after prints were delivered and my average has been about 14 days.
I haven’t tried any shrimp gang stuff as I read they required some different spacer material and I didn’t want to deal with that.

 

[Jagade]

I use WTT ala white trash tactical

 

[swamper2]

So after all this build info are there any prints on a good build for a 22-250

 

[swamper2]

1.5” or 1.625” OD tube with 8” diameter titanium tube

3” blast chamber

8-9 Dino precision if you do a 1.625” tube or sauce co cones if 1.5” (sauce co sounds better to me with 5.56 and .308). I would do all steel cones.

All cones static spaced with a 0.5” skirt or progressively spaced. 8 cones if static. You can fit 9 if you progressively spaced them.

About 0.5” distal chamber

Back bored end cap

Rearden atlas mount

Any rearden muzzle device. I’d go with their two port brake

If you want a dedicated .22 cal can, bore with a 9/32” drill bit and clip the cones 0.125” wide by 0.150” deep.

If you want a .30 cal, drill with a 3/8” bit and clip 0.188” wide by 0.2” deep.

Try to align all the clips as best you can when assembling.

What does clip the cone mean

 

[BuildingConceptsllc]

What does clip the cone mean

It means to make a notch in the top of the cone. It's referred to as "clipping". All production cans have this feature on their baffles.

 

[swamper2]

It means to make a notch in the top of the cone. It's referred to as "clipping". All production cans have this feature on their baffles.

To balance the gas pressure?

 

[swamper2]

Those little notches are called clips. They act to disrupt laminar flow of the gas through the apertures in the cones. Laminar flow is the tendency of a fluid to stick together when exiting an aperture. Think of water flowing out a garden hose. It sticks together as one steady stream. Now think about when you block part of the hose off with your finger. The stream turns into a spray.

It’s a similar concept with the clips except that the notch directs part of the gas to shoot upward at an angle into the main jet of gas and disrupt its path through the holes. This causes the gas to kind of swirl around in the chambers created by the baffles for a while (like a few nanoseconds) allowing them to cool and slow down before exiting the distal hole in the silencer.

You one smart guy. Must be a professor. Thank you for the well explained function.

 

[Average guy]

I just got my approval back. After a computer snafu on their end it was 9 1/2 months. Going with parts from solvent traps .com.

 

[oso1]

Did you buy the parts already ?

 

[Average guy]

The are currently in route. I’m copying a build that @geno C did awhile back. He had great results that I’m hoping to duplicate.

 

[warnera1102]

I built a progressive can with dino and supers, it's stupid quiet on my 300 blackout pistol and the loudest noise is the action when shooting subs. I typically run it in my 6.5g and 223

 

[swamper2]

I built a progressive can with dino and supers, it's stupid quiet on my 300 blackout pistol and the loudest noise is the action when shooting subs. I typically run it in my 6.5g and 223

who sells dino and supers

 

[swamper2]

Dino precision 50 degree cups

Pure performance armory super duper cups

Perfect. Thanks again

 

[HPIguy]

I did a mix of Pure Performance Armory 60deg (50s were sold out everywhere at the time) and White Trash Tactical step cones progressively spaced in my .30cal can. Maverick Precision Raven Ti 1.5" x 8" tube. Had a SOT 02/07 properly machine all the internals once I drilled the end cap thus making it a suppressor. Silencerco ASR Bravo mounting system. Performance is on par with commercial cans with supers, I'm very happy with it. Form 1 took less than 21 days if memory serves. You won't save any money if you do it right out of good materials, but you will save time.

 

[762 ULTRAMAGA]

I've been looking at these from Wyoming Arms https://wyomingarms.com/product/solvent-trap-titanium/
Lightweight and small. And they sell the "baffle strike kit" to help with completing the Form 1

My first can was a 4" 30 cal,
It's not even worth the cost of the stamp

 

[joetuono]

I built a progressive can with dino and supers, it's stupid quiet on my 300 blackout pistol and the loudest noise is the action when shooting subs. I typically run it in my 6.5g and 223

What size hole did you drill in the cups?

 

[bllistc]

What size hole did you drill in the cups?

Looks like 3/8” or .375 based on the cups he used. You generally want about 0.60” larger than the diameter of the largest bullet you’re shouting through it.

 

[joetuono]

Looks like 3/8” or .375 based on the cups he used. You generally want about 0.60” larger than the diameter of the largest bullet you’re shouting through it.

Thanks for posting the chart!

 

[E. Bryant]

A 3/8" bit works fine for 30 cal. If the hole ends up a bit larger, no problem. Don't get wound around the axle on bore size. I can fit a 0.413" pin in my TBAC Ultra 338, and it's quiet with subsonic 300 AAC.

 

[chase723]

Got my approved email today for form 1 efile
Filed 10/7/21
Fingerprints received 10/15
Approved 10/25.
now to drill and play

That is f’n fast

 

[Northfl]

That is f’n fast

I agree. May have been a fluke. No telling though. Know several that have had fast turn around here lately

 

[chase723]

I hope it’s not a fluke. I submitted 3 last week. Lol. I presume you used the eform system. Did you use a trust or yourself as the submitter? Did you use an already previously approved model to avoid having to go through the “pending research” phase?

When I submitted my first 3 a few years ago with a trust it was 6 weeks with design submission/verification etc. I reused one of my old designs and models for these 3 since it is already pre approved and they state that it will speed up the approval process. Hopefully it’ll still be 6 weeks or so…but the 10 days after submitting fingerprints in your case would just be awesome.

 

[oso1]

Choose N/A from the drop down menu for model and you avoid "pending research" you can still put any model you choose if you want to. The longest I have ever had to wait was 5 1/2 weeks because I chose my own model, now I just choose N/A and approvals are usually 3 weeks, sometimes quicker.

 

[MadDuner]

I got to re-submit mine on 10/21 because I originally submitted earlier from an iPad and missed something on both of them. They accepted my $200 each, but I did not digitally “sign” the application. My fingerprints went in 11/1. I’m really hoping to hear back soon!

 

[warnera1102]

What 22 can are you looking at? Im thinking about the XRT

 

[Northfl]

Think i am going to go with the solvent traps direct form 1 route again. Pretty impressed with my other one

 

[oso1]

You may want to remove that post, it is not legal to add parts to a finished suppressor unless you are SOT

 

[chase723]

You may want to remove that post, it is not legal to add parts to a finished suppressor unless you are SOT

Unless he submitted the paperwork to the ATF that it’s complete (which you are not required to do) then technically, and legally, his Form 1 build is still under construction. Once you have your stamp, you are allowed to trial components so long as they are part of the approved design for fit and function. If they are not part of the original design, then you are correct, only an SOT can do that.

 

[oso1]

No, technically once he put a bullet through his form 1 suppressor it is complete. Also you do not have to inform the ATF your suppressor is complete, and you cannot experiment until you are satisfied, or as you stated "under construction" You get one shot to build it, if you don't like it, send to a 07/02 SOT like Eccomachine, or if you want to recore it yourself, you must pay another $200 and file for another stamp.

I really don't care what anyone does personally, just informing in case he does not know the law, could be putting his right to own a firearm in jeopardy.

 

[MadDuner]

More information and better understandings of current law is always good!

 

[chase723]

There’s

No, technically once he put a bullet through his form 1 suppressor it is complete. Also you do not have to inform the ATF your suppressor is complete, and you cannot experiment until you are satisfied, or as you stated "under construction" You get one shot to build it, if you don't like it, send to a 07/02 SOT like Eccomachine, or if you want to recore it yourself, you must pay another $200 and file for another stamp.

I really don't care what anyone does personally, just informing in case he does not know the law, could be putting his right to own a firearm in jeopardy.

Do you have a citation/reference to support this? Only reason I ask is because it’s contrary to what I have been told directly by the ATF. They have an old Q&A about silencer repairs from 2008 but it’s primarily about cans that are Form 4s. I asked them about tube and baffle replacement in the event of a baffle strike for a Form 1 can and was told if the serialized portion of the tube isn’t damaged you can shorten the tube the amount necessary to rethread it to accept an end cap and that because I was the authorized manufacturer I could replace /repair the baffle. I also asked them if I could place a couple baffles and shoot through it to test and make sure I wasn’t getting a baffle strike (so I didn’t destroy my tube if my concentricity was super fucked up) and they said yes. The emphasis was on not adding additional components to a design (I.e. more baffles than in the plan) and not completely replacing a tube. Maybe whomever I talked to didn’t have their regulatory understanding correct…

 

[The38Super]

Unless he submitted the paperwork to the ATF that it’s complete (which you are not required to do) then technically, and legally, his Form 1 build is still under construction. Once you have your stamp, you are allowed to trial components so long as they are part of the approved design for fit and function. If they are not part of the original design, then you are correct, only an SOT can do that.

You can swap cones from one approved suppressor to another, without an SOT.

 

[AMGtuned]

@TheGerman this is a totally viable option.

Host/Caliber will play a role in choosing your guts. I did a 6.5" can for my 10.5" rifle to mitigate flash for night coy dogs, and obviously reduce overall sound level. Couldn't be happier. PM me, or ill check this thread, but I'd be happy to help with any research

 

[oso1]

Reference is the laws on the ATF website, go read them. I stand by what I said before, as a form 1 it does not give you the ability to experiment, replace baffles/cones. You may remove material but you cannot add or replace once the suppressor is complete. Complete is once you send a round through it. Also a plan/drawing is not required, so deviating from a design is a non issue. When submitting your form 1 for a silencer, the only info required
1--maker
2--address
3--length
4--caliber
5--serial #

All other info on the application is the same as buying a firearm.

 

[AMGtuned]

Reference is the laws on the ATF website, go read them. I stand by what I said before, as a form 1 it does not give you the ability to experiment, replace baffles/cones. You may remove material but you cannot add or replace once the suppressor is complete. Complete is once you send a round through it. Also a plan/drawing is not required, so deviating from a design is a non issue. When submitting your form 1 for a silencer, the only info required
1--maker
2--address
3--length
4--caliber
5--serial #

All other info on the application is the same as buying a firearm.

While you ARE correct:

If I had 2 approved .30cal form 1 suppressors; I could, if so inclined, move parts from one to another. There would have to be NO remaining parts, and BOTH cans would have to still be functional with their registered caliber.

 

[oso1]

Good to see you over here @AMGtuned, yes you are correct, I never debated what you are saying.

 

[AMGtuned]

Good to see you over here @AMGtuned, yes you are correct, I never debated what you are saying.

Thanks dude. This place really accelerated my passion for shooting. There were a couple threads about QB kits, and F4 times; and I began thinking, I can do that.

Anyway; I had seen it come up prior in the thread, just thought I'd throw it out there. Happy Shooting

 

[The38Super]

Good to see you over here @AMGtuned, yes you are correct, I never debated what you are saying.

Hey, I said the same thing, just not as articulately.

 

[XikoPlavi]

I seriously need a suppressor but man this make my head hurt. I’m too busy to build one. Just don’t think I have it in me. I’ve know nothing of how to get one the normal way. So, how do you go the form4 route. Websites to learn about that? I wonder what my FFL dealer would say…lol.

 

[AMGtuned]

I seriously need a suppressor but man this make my head hurt. I’m too busy to build one. Just don’t think I have it in me. I’ve know nothing of how to get one the normal way. So, how do you go the form4 route. Websites to learn about that? I wonder what my FFL dealer would say…lol.

Your local SOT/FFL would be the best route. But, believe it or not, the ATF has a lot of info regarding. Both F1 and F4 are quite easy processes; one just tends to take a lite more time than the other

 

[chase723]

I would also say don’t be intimidated by the Form 1. There’s plenty of info out there and for something that works pretty well, it’s both expedient and affordable.

 

[The38Super]

I seriously need a suppressor but man this make my head hurt. I’m too busy to build one. Just don’t think I have it in me. I’ve know nothing of how to get one the normal way. So, how do you go the form4 route. Websites to learn about that? I wonder what my FFL dealer would say…lol.

Silencershop is probably the least painful way to buy a Form 4
https://www.silencershop.com/how-to-buy-a-silencer

 

[XikoPlavi]

I would also say don’t be intimidated by the Form 1. There’s plenty of info out there and for something that works pretty well, it’s both expedient and affordable.

Yeah that’s cool. I know a guy I could talk to about it but I’m not gonna lie. I’m a computer IT guy my whole life and am handy to do projects but I’d be more willing to venture into doing one if I could do it with someone who already has locally. Thanks for the replies

 

[XikoPlavi]

Thanks for the replies everyone. Can you still submit a form4 via a trust or is that just for form1?

 

[XikoPlavi]

Honestly I hate a muzzle break but have no choice for now. I’ve wanted to get one of these for a while, and just take the path of least resistance. It’s time to bite the bullet and go for it

 

[XikoPlavi]

Well, I read up on it all and after I did I found out that Delaware (you know the shitstained so called leaders state) they are banned and not legal. Weird b/c most firearms laws in Delaware are pretty open. Just makes me realize I need to leave this state but not easy to do. Used to be such a great state. Burns me up right there. POS LIBERALS

 

[Judcargile]

I did one and had to rely on solvent trap parts because I do not own the tooling or have the training to tackle that job. It took a very, very long time for me to source the parts, because the high quality supplies are always in high demand. I was lucky to have finished because the suppliers have been getting shut down left and right.

I spent way more time and money than had I just but off of the shelf and have no desire to ever attempt it again.

The new E file on Form 1 is pretty quick and if you can get or make nice parts, you can absolutely make one as good or better than anything in production.

 

[oso1]

I have built multiple in just the last year alone, if you know where to buy from, parts are not hard to get. In fact in just the past year the form 1 parts have progressed more than ever, it is so far ahead of where the form 1 world used to be. There are many innovative companies producing high quality parts,. Building a can better than off the shelf is reality and can be done with a as little as a hand drill and a file. There are jigs available to hold cups/cones to make it dummy proof, you can drill a hole centered with a hand drill. I personally use better tooling but many are using basic tools most already own.

 

[northern50]

Yes. JR Machine pro is your best source of parts. All made here in Wi, no chinesium cones.

 

[BuildingConceptsllc]

Yes. JR Machine pro is your best source of parts. All made here in Wi, no chinesium cones.

Except they are out of everything they make. Any other places to get good parts to make a can that you can use different baffle styles in the same can?