I was thinking that would be such a fast way to switch out barrels. Does anyone use that method for fast barrel change? Im thinking 30 to 40 torque. I was also think it could be done right at range just brace rifle with legs and spin off.
Barrel flats, any one use them?
- Thread starter Schw15
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If I had a mill I’d 100% mill some flats in my barrel.
In the meantime I made this portable barrel Vice with a carbon fiber handle I rolled up.
In the meantime I made this portable barrel Vice with a carbon fiber handle I rolled up.
On my Nuke no because I have to pull the extractor to use the action wrench.
If you’re able to easily slip in action wrench yes.
I’m tempted to just use less torque and reef on it a bit in the chassis but am a bit leery on that with my 338 barrel.
I kinda regret trading in my old action wrench for the new one.
I never tighten up my barrels to 100 ft pounds so I was probably ok with the old one.
Ran flats at the muzzle for a spell...shoulders and 45ft lbs...
Easy enough to swap barrels out without removing the action in a MPA Comp chassis if you allowed clearance under the scope for the barrel shank. Same process may work on a number of other chassis, but can only speak on the MPA. When I moved away from the MPA back to traditional stocks I stopped using the flats because it took removing the action out of the stock anyhow to remove the barrel.
Easy enough to swap barrels out without removing the action in a MPA Comp chassis if you allowed clearance under the scope for the barrel shank. Same process may work on a number of other chassis, but can only speak on the MPA. When I moved away from the MPA back to traditional stocks I stopped using the flats because it took removing the action out of the stock anyhow to remove the barrel.
Thats a pretty nice fixture you made without a mill. Looks professionally made. Im sure anyone with a mill would cut the flats for a 6 pack. I know i would.
I have 3 barrels with flats for my Tikka. I swap barrels with a crows foot and a torque wrench, 40 ft/lbs does the trick. It is currently in a MDT ACC.
Just yesterday I picked my rifle up from the smith having had flats machines into my barrels.
It's also a Tikka, have a 24" CTR barrel and a 19" CTR barrel I hope to use interchangeably.
Went with 17mm flats at the muzzle end.
Not sure what I'll use for torque but even 30NM is very secure, takes a fair ol whack to loosen the barrel.
Hoping to test it out in a few days.
It's also a Tikka, have a 24" CTR barrel and a 19" CTR barrel I hope to use interchangeably.
Went with 17mm flats at the muzzle end.
Not sure what I'll use for torque but even 30NM is very secure, takes a fair ol whack to loosen the barrel.
Hoping to test it out in a few days.
Was thinking of doing wrench flats on my tikka instead of the switch lug I was planning on. How much torque is safe to put on wrench flats out on the muzzle? Can you put the wrench flats in front of the chamber instead where the barrel is heavier or will that create an issue? I’d rather this than use a barrel vise because reasons. If the flats will work, and it won’t hurt the barrel to put that amount of torque on it with the flats, that what I’d like to do.
I've put flats on my Tikka barrels, and haven't had any issues.
Was torquing to around 40 ftlb, which isn't crazy but some Google searches suggested it was enough.
To do anymore torque than that really need a rear action wrench or put the action in a vice.
An ex member here (Rubenski) did the same thing to his Tikka and said it worked just fine.
Reubenski wiped his threads off this site for job reasons (we think), but here’s an idea he helped start. The vise guy no longer makes that portable barrel vise, but if you have barrel flats you don’t need it. For more torque see the lower leg techniques (one is with an internal wrench).
www.snipershide.com
And damnit I miss Reubenski. I found myself eventually coming to the same gear conclusions that he did, after making a bunch of mistakes, of course.
For those interested in field swapping barrels...The Ross Vise
*** Special thanks to hide member reubenski who's setup with barrel flats inspired this rabbit hole. *** The last couple of years I've moved to a modular rifle system that uses Bighorn actions and a pile of interchangeable barrels in various chamberings and states of wear. The weak link in all...
www.snipershide.com
And damnit I miss Reubenski. I found myself eventually coming to the same gear conclusions that he did, after making a bunch of mistakes, of course.
Here is the post where he rigs up an internal action wrench to use while standing.
www.snipershide.com
Again, on the barrel end you’d obviously be using the barrel flats and not his portable vise.
For those interested in field swapping barrels...The Ross Vise
*** Special thanks to hide member reubenski who's setup with barrel flats inspired this rabbit hole. *** The last couple of years I've moved to a modular rifle system that uses Bighorn actions and a pile of interchangeable barrels in various chamberings and states of wear. The weak link in all...
www.snipershide.com
Again, on the barrel end you’d obviously be using the barrel flats and not his portable vise.
Here is a vid of Ted putting a barrel on an Archimedes using barrel flats and wrench out in the field. I think Ted is a VERY interesting person! haha
I have one barrel with flats. I torqued it with an action wrench. Now I have a crows foot. The next time I switch, I will give the crows foot a try. Definitely not going to 90 pounds. Good to know what others are doing.
Crows foot on a torque wrench if what I do.
I usually change the barrel Jacob style (rifle on bipod fully assembled) but if you want to torque it real tight I don't think you can rely on Jacobs method, will need to hold the action more securely.
I use AI's Borka's little wrench and snug it up without ever having RTZ issues. I wish I had Rubenski's posts to reference because I believe I came to the same conclusion as him: Anything over 40 ft.lbs. is good to go, but you have to be consistent in whatever force you decide on.
I didn't have issues going hand tight only (no idea on the force), but use the wrench for consistency and reliability.
I didn't have issues going hand tight only (no idea on the force), but use the wrench for consistency and reliability.
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AI has a wrench for that? It’s just a regular wrench, right, and not a crow’s foot torque wrench? If you have a pic that’d be great.
I just use a Japanese adjustable wrench as it has zero play. Hate those sloppy adjustables.
Btw I like your avatar lol
Glad you asked... apparently it was a Borka wrench. It has the holes to be used as a crow's foot, but long enough handle that you can ensure the barrel is snug by hand. I can try and grab a pic later.
