I was thinking that would be such a fast way to switch out barrels. Does anyone use that method for fast barrel change? Im thinking 30 to 40 torque. I was also think it could be done right at range just brace rifle with legs and spin off.
Barrel flats, any one use them?
- Thread starter Schw15
- Start date
If I had a mill I’d 100% mill some flats in my barrel.
In the meantime I made this portable barrel Vice with a carbon fiber handle I rolled up.
In the meantime I made this portable barrel Vice with a carbon fiber handle I rolled up.
On my Nuke no because I have to pull the extractor to use the action wrench.
If you’re able to easily slip in action wrench yes.
I’m tempted to just use less torque and reef on it a bit in the chassis but am a bit leery on that with my 338 barrel.
I kinda regret trading in my old action wrench for the new one.
I never tighten up my barrels to 100 ft pounds so I was probably ok with the old one.
Ran flats at the muzzle for a spell...shoulders and 45ft lbs...
Easy enough to swap barrels out without removing the action in a MPA Comp chassis if you allowed clearance under the scope for the barrel shank. Same process may work on a number of other chassis, but can only speak on the MPA. When I moved away from the MPA back to traditional stocks I stopped using the flats because it took removing the action out of the stock anyhow to remove the barrel.
Easy enough to swap barrels out without removing the action in a MPA Comp chassis if you allowed clearance under the scope for the barrel shank. Same process may work on a number of other chassis, but can only speak on the MPA. When I moved away from the MPA back to traditional stocks I stopped using the flats because it took removing the action out of the stock anyhow to remove the barrel.
Thats a pretty nice fixture you made without a mill. Looks professionally made. Im sure anyone with a mill would cut the flats for a 6 pack. I know i would.
I have 3 barrels with flats for my Tikka. I swap barrels with a crows foot and a torque wrench, 40 ft/lbs does the trick. It is currently in a MDT ACC.
Just yesterday I picked my rifle up from the smith having had flats machines into my barrels.
It's also a Tikka, have a 24" CTR barrel and a 19" CTR barrel I hope to use interchangeably.
Went with 17mm flats at the muzzle end.
Not sure what I'll use for torque but even 30NM is very secure, takes a fair ol whack to loosen the barrel.
Hoping to test it out in a few days.
It's also a Tikka, have a 24" CTR barrel and a 19" CTR barrel I hope to use interchangeably.
Went with 17mm flats at the muzzle end.
Not sure what I'll use for torque but even 30NM is very secure, takes a fair ol whack to loosen the barrel.
Hoping to test it out in a few days.
Was thinking of doing wrench flats on my tikka instead of the switch lug I was planning on. How much torque is safe to put on wrench flats out on the muzzle? Can you put the wrench flats in front of the chamber instead where the barrel is heavier or will that create an issue? I’d rather this than use a barrel vise because reasons. If the flats will work, and it won’t hurt the barrel to put that amount of torque on it with the flats, that what I’d like to do.
I've put flats on my Tikka barrels, and haven't had any issues.
Was torquing to around 40 ftlb, which isn't crazy but some Google searches suggested it was enough.
To do anymore torque than that really need a rear action wrench or put the action in a vice.
An ex member here (Rubenski) did the same thing to his Tikka and said it worked just fine.
