Brake Install, Bad Work. Pics.

[thespecialist]

I've rechambered a lot of AAC Nitrided barrels and they do fine. But they will also scratch easily which should tell you something. As a machinist, I can tell you that nitride being to tough to machine is a myth this industry has created to boost sales.

Oh I'm well aware that it can be machined, just not sure on the ins and outs of doing so. You just have to get through the hardened material and then it's business as usual correct? I'll be honest and say that I've never touched a lathe and I'm not going to claim I know jack about machining anything like this. As far as scratching easily, I have no idea. I Duracoated mine immediately after I got the barreled action back.

My biggest concern with the local smith was when I told him it was nitrided he asked me "what the hell does that mean". I was just envisioning him snapping a reamer off in my new barrel and screwing it up.

 

[Turd in the Pool]

It is pretty tough even with large, expensive equipment to get flush fitting shafts aligned when threads are cut by two different machine shops but he should have been able to get them within tenths and then lightly cleaned it up. He should have stayed off the barrel at a minimum on the finish pass.

The machines have very little to do with it. Most bbls have runout. Most brakes don't. The only way to get them to mate is to duplicate the bbl runout on the brake which requires a second setup after threading. I'd bet he just turned it close on a live center and obviously he hit it with a file. A few more min. with the file and some abrasive paper would have made a perfect fit and finish. Eyesight may be a factor in his case but I'm guessing he figured the finish would cover it.

 

[nic_bravo_whiskey]

The machines have very little to do with it. Most bbls have runout. Most brakes don't. The only way to get them to mate is to duplicate the bbl runout on the brake which requires a second setup after threading. I'd bet he just turned it close on a live center and obviously he hit it with a file. A few more min. with the file and some abrasive paper would have made a perfect fit and finish. Eyesight may be a factor in his case but I'm guessing he figured the finish would cover it.

I specifically told him that I wanted it to follow the taper of the barrel. I wanted it to look like it was the barrel, like how they should be installed. After he tried to sell be one of his breaks, that are uglier than sin, he said he could do it. And he said he has done a ton of these.

At the end of the day, it's just bad work.

 

[Cncjerry]

Just for grins before you move on, take a straightedge and lay it up against that barrel to where it touches the end of the new muzzle, after the brake and take another picture. After looking at it again, you might be able to get someone to fix it really nicely just by matching the original barrel taper and cutting it continuos down to the new muzzle. I can't tell for sure without seeing a straight edge on it. It's starting to look like the brake is larger diameter than the original muzzle diameter. Lastly, with a couple of coats of paint with wet sanding between it can be made perfect.

Do you have a micrometer or caliper? If so, measure the two ends of the brake as well as the end of the muzzle and back a few inches. Just curious now.

 

[nic_bravo_whiskey]

Just for grins before you move on, take a straightedge and lay it up against that barrel to where it touches the end of the new muzzle, after the brake and take another picture. After looking at it again, you might be able to get someone to fix it really nicely just by matching the original barrel taper and cutting it continuos down to the new muzzle. I can't tell for sure without seeing a straight edge on it. It's starting to look like the brake is larger diameter than the original muzzle diameter. Lastly, with a couple of coats of paint with wet sanding between it can be made perfect.

Do you have a micrometer or caliper? If so, measure the two ends of the brake as well as the end of the muzzle and back a few inches. Just curious now.

I'll do this.

 

[Delta4-3]

Oh I'm well aware that it can be machined, just not sure on the ins and outs of doing so. You just have to get through the hardened material and then it's business as usual correct? I'll be honest and say that I've never touched a lathe and I'm not going to claim I know jack about machining anything like this. As far as scratching easily, I have no idea. I Duracoated mine immediately after I got the barreled action back.

My biggest concern with the local smith was when I told him it was nitrided he asked me "what the hell does that mean". I was just envisioning him snapping a reamer off in my new barrel and screwing it up.

Yes sir. Sometimes hard doesn't mean it won't cut well with HSS or carbide, and this is the case with nitride. AAC had green mountain make some of their .300BLK barrels at a cost of $50ish. That makes you wonder if they are REALLY nitriding them? They literally scratched like spray pant. Freedom group just bought Montana Rifleman though, and their barrels are right there with kreiger and hart, but cheaper, so I would assume they are using those now. All of their "Nitrided" barrels I fitted, I cut with a HSS PTG reamer, and they cut like butter.

You couldn't be more right in recommending that it just be sent to LRI. That's a good path to guaranteed success.

 

[Wheres-Waldo]

If the transition really bothers you all that much (and your barrel has a taper) just set the brake back a bit.

Honestly though, if it shoots, I would put some paint on it and go to work.