Can You Guys Critique My Build Before I click Order?

Crazy1323

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Hey guys, I am fairly new to precision rifles. I have two factory Rem 700's that I have done the basic stuff to (stock, trigger, etc). I am now looking to do my first custom build. Can you guys make sure that there isn't something major that I am missing? The purpose of this rifle will be a long range target/hunting rifle. For hunting it will be shot off the back of a UTV/Truck at hogs on a family farm, so weight isn't a huge concern since I won't be carrying it through the woods. For target shooting, I have several steel targets ranging from 4" to 24", I have the room to get about 2,000 yards on my own land about and hour from my house and the local range has a 600 yd range. Right now I do not compete, but might want to some day.

OK, here are the build specs. Are there any blaring mistakes or faux pas that I have made?

  • North West Precision Action w/ 338 Lapua Bolt Face
  • Bartlein Heavy Varmint finished at 26" (to be fluted)
  • Manners MCS-TA with DBM chassis
  • Jewell Trigger
  • AAC Titan Ti Suppressor (Purchased back in January)
  • Nightforce NXS 8-32 (I know the 5.5-22 has more elevation, but I have bad eyes and need the magnification)
  • Barrel to be installed, chambered, fluted, and threaded by Long Rifles, Inc. (Open to other quality smiths that don't take 1 year)
  • Chambered in 338 Lapua Mag with chamber cut for 300gr Sierra's at mag length


Thanks a lot,

Paul
 

29aholic

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If anything I think maybe a 30+" barrel if you plan to range out to 2000. You'll probably want a quality break for times you aren't using the can.
 

ZLBubba

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The 338LM is an expensive beast to feed and shoot. Have you thought about the 300 Norma? Great bullets, cheaper to shoot, less recoil, slightly less range.

I'd personally go with a different stock, but that's all personal preference. I'm a much bigger fan of the T2A or the T4A, depending on whether you like a hook on your stock. Other than that, you should be good to go.
 

Crazy1323

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If anything I think maybe a 30+" barrel if you plan to range out to 2000. You'll probably want a quality break for times you aren't using the can.

I have thought about a longer barrel, I think a 26" (maybe 27") barrel is about the longest that can fit in my safe unfortunately. I have thought about a Badger FTE, but I cannot see why I wouldn't be using the can. Then I'd have to deal with zeroing with and without. I try to always shoot all my weapons suppressed since it is so much more pleasant and less-fatiguing.

The 338LM is an expensive beast to feed and shoot. Have you thought about the 300 Norma? Great bullets, cheaper to shoot, less recoil, slightly less range.

I'd personally go with a different stock, but that's all personal preference. I'm a much bigger fan of the T2A or the T4A, depending on whether you like a hook on your stock. Other than that, you should be good to go.

Thanks, I have shot a 338 Lapua a few times and didn't mind the recoil. Also, I reload and already have nice Redding 338 dies. A friend with an MRAD got them for me if I would reload some rounds for him. Another buddy has a Savage 338. I think I want to do 338 so we can share components/ammo. The three of us shoot together pretty often.

The reason that I went with the T over the T2/4 is that I have never shot a rifle with a pistol grip other than AR's. I guess I was just sticking with what I know. Does the pistol grip make that big of a difference?
 

strike33

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The more vertical pistol grips are more natural and give a better trigger finger placement. Manners will send you a loaner stock to checkout. The T5 is another great all purpose design
 

CBeck

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I wanna see pics of the hogs shot with it when it's done
 

ZLBubba

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I have thought about a longer barrel, I think a 26" (maybe 27") barrel is about the longest that can fit in my safe unfortunately. I have thought about a Badger FTE, but I cannot see why I wouldn't be using the can. Then I'd have to deal with zeroing with and without. I try to always shoot all my weapons suppressed since it is so much more pleasant and less-fatiguing.



Thanks, I have shot a 338 Lapua a few times and didn't mind the recoil. Also, I reload and already have nice Redding 338 dies. A friend with an MRAD got them for me if I would reload some rounds for him. Another buddy has a Savage 338. I think I want to do 338 so we can share components/ammo. The three of us shoot together pretty often.

The reason that I went with the T over the T2/4 is that I have never shot a rifle with a pistol grip other than AR's. I guess I was just sticking with what I know. Does the pistol grip make that big of a difference?

It's all in your shooting style. There is no "best stock", only what you feel most comfortable with and what you shoot best with.
 

Armored Transport

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Longer barrel and if you have to lock it up put the action in a folding stock. You have to go longer on the barrel....Get a removeable single shot follower so you can load those 300g long for the best ELR fun.
 

29aholic

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From what I understand about ELR (out past 1000) and even to 1000 the trick is to keep the bullet supersonic as long as possible. For that reason you would probably want to remove the can.
 

Crazy1323

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That is good to know. I guess that makes sense as the gas has already done its work by the time it reaches the suppressor.
Thanks

Yep, normally you see a small increase in MV with a suppressor since the gases net force on the bullet is still forward


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fdkay

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    Thanks, I've never heard that before. What is the reasoning?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    boring and rifling the barrel puts stress on the barrel, button rifling even more so (the metal is displaced, not cut out) then lapping is completed.
    The quality shops checks for trueness before shipping the barrels.
    Once you start removing metal from the outside of the barrel (flutes), it changes the way the barrel is stressed and MIGHT cause the barrel to "bend".
    It would be like tillering when making a longbow. You remove some of the material and it reacts by bending away from the place that you removed the material.
     

    garandman

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    Nov 17, 2009
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    I wouldn't flute. Period.

    You cannot make a barrel stiffer by removing steel. Think of a barrel 1" dia, with .338 bore, with 0.25" deep flutes. An extreme example, but the overall pint is proven.


    ANY steel removed reduces rigidity. And possibly affects barrel integrity and consistency in resonance.
     

    garandman

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    338 Norma actually works better for 300gr boolits, as you don't have to compress the powder loads, and they also fit in standard CIP mags.
     

    JGB02

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    Hey guys, I am fairly new to precision rifles. I have two factory Rem 700's that I have done the basic stuff to (stock, trigger, etc). I am now looking to do my first custom build. Can you guys make sure that there isn't something major that I am missing? The purpose of this rifle will be a long range target/hunting rifle. For hunting it will be shot off the back of a UTV/Truck at hogs on a family farm, so weight isn't a huge concern since I won't be carrying it through the woods. For target shooting, I have several steel targets ranging from 4" to 24", I have the room to get about 2,000 yards on my own land about and hour from my house and the local range has a 600 yd range. Right now I do not compete, but might want to some day.

    OK, here are the build specs. Are there any blaring mistakes or faux pas that I have made?

    • North West Precision Action w/ 338 Lapua Bolt Face
    • Bartlein Heavy Varmint finished at 26" (to be fluted)
    • Manners MCS-TA with DBM chassis
    • Jewell Trigger
    • AAC Titan Ti Suppressor (Purchased back in January)
    • Nightforce NXS 8-32 (I know the 5.5-22 has more elevation, but I have bad eyes and need the magnification)
    • Barrel to be installed, chambered, fluted, and threaded by Long Rifles, Inc. (Open to other quality smiths that don't take 1 year)
    • Chambered in 338 Lapua Mag with chamber cut for 300gr Sierra's at mag length


    Thanks a lot,

    Paul


    Paul,

    I suggest you get a manners T3 instead of the T (unless you already have the stock). Like you, I enjoy the traditional feeling stock. The T3 has a beefed up section in the recoil lug area, which you will want for a 338 LM, and it has a wider forearm, which is better suited for heavy contour barrels.

    Unless you already have the action from NW action works, I would skip getting the R700 and get a Stiller Tac 338 instead. It will already be trued up with all the bells and whistles installed. Bugholes.com usually has them in stock.

    I would not flute the barrel, as this is not a rifle that requires weight savings. If you like the look of a fluted barrel, then by all means...

    For a scope I would go with the Bushnell 4.5-30X50 over the Nightforce.

    Everything else looks pretty good.

    GAP and Short Action Customs do great work also. If you send them the parts, you probably won't have to wait too long.
     

    dreamlander

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    I would strongly suggest a different scope. Something with a lower min power for hunting and you will want more elevation in the turret if you are going to shoot at something at 2000 yards. You will need about 95 moa to get to 2000 yds. You will need a 60 moa cant mount to get there with your scope and this will give you about a 1000 yd zero at the scope's lowest point. Bad scope choice, believe me.
     

    7magsavage

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    My .02:

    1) 338 will not be able to compete in lots of the long range tactical matches, since the matches are usually caliber restricted to a max of 300WM and or 3100-3200fps.
    2) 338 is a bit overkill for piggies
    3) I would buy an ATACR before the bench rest model, especially if you are going to be banging around in the back of truck/ATV.
    Again, just my .02.
     

    trigger29

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    338 Norma actually works better for 300gr boolits, as you don't have to compress the powder loads, and they also fit in standard CIP mags.
    If I would change one thing about your build, I'd run a Seekins DBM, which allows a 3.900 COAL. Then you can throat the chamber to seat the bullet out of the powder column and have plenty of room to fit them in the magazine. This is the route I went on mine. I used a Defiance action ordered for that DBM with the magazine cut out for it, and the bolt stop for the long magazine already done.
     

    Rockfish Dave

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    • North West Precision Action w/ 338 Lapua Bolt Face
    • Bartlein Heavy Varmint finished at 26" (to be fluted)
    • Manners MCS-TA with DBM chassis
    • Jewell Trigger
    • AAC Titan Ti Suppressor (Purchased back in January)
    • Nightforce NXS 8-32 (I know the 5.5-22 has more elevation, but I have bad eyes and need the magnification)
    • Barrel to be installed, chambered, fluted, and threaded by Long Rifles, Inc. (Open to other quality smiths that don't take 1 year)
    • Chambered in 338 Lapua Mag with chamber cut for 300gr Sierra's at mag length

    A couple of suggestions and a thought:

    1) Bartlien offers in house chambering and threading services and the turn around time is fast! The two barrels that they did for me are the best shooters I have.
    2) Consider CIP length bottom metal and magazines. Will allow for longer COAL. I'm not sure if the mini chassis will accommodate the the Seekins bottom metal and magazines but if so it will allow for even longer COAL.
    3) Consider one of the TF line of folding stocks from Manners. I have a TF4 and a TF1. The TF1 feels perfect. It makes storage and transportation much easier in my experience.
    4) There is no such thing as "over kill" when it comes to piggies. Have fun!
     
    Last edited:

    RobertB

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    No, a seekins bottom metal will NOT work in a mini chassis because a mini chassis is bottom metal as well.

    The OP mentions a NXS nightforce _Not a benchrest model

    You wont need that extreme of a cant with that scope. Remember that the reticle has 20 MOA in it (If your going the MOA model-mil will have just as much holdover) so you will NOT need a 1000 yd zero.

    Good luck OP, sounds like you got most of it figured out. I too would go with a longer bbl and beefier stock for ELR work and as already mentioned only a very few places offer matches that allow that type of a weapon. YOur on the right track if you want a ELR rifle. Since it is a custom though you need to get what YOU want.

    And where are you out of? Getting behind some stocks might be the best thing you can do. And no, a suppressor wont take away your MV
     

    dreamlander

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    The 8-32 NXS has 65 moa of travel. Yes, you can add the 20 moa of reticle and get by with a 40 moa cant mount. If the idea is an ELR setup I think there are better options.
     

    briang7511

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    +1 to dreamlander, you will need as much elevation as you can get. my 5.5x22x56 nxs with 20moa base has 72moa of vert travel. I can reach a mile with my 300wm but no more unless I use the reticle. When you are at the bottom of the reticle and try to hold over for changing winds its not as easy as being centered in the reticle. Going to be tough to hit a 24in plate at 2k with the bottom of a reticle.
     

    Rockfish Dave

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    No, a seekins bottom metal will NOT work in a mini chassis because a mini chassis is bottom metal as well.

    The Manners mini chassis comes in two flavors: MCS-BDL Mini Chassis and MCS-DBM Mini Chassis

    MCS-BDL Mini Chassis has a chassis and the end user can use any bottom metal that the inlet supports.

    MCS-DBM Mini Chassis has the bottom metal incorporated as part of the chassis.

    Here is a link so you don't call someone out while putting bad info again (at least on this subject). MCS BDL and DBM Mini Chassis « Manners Composite Stocks