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Care And Feeding Of A GAP 6.5 SAUM.....

According to the drawings of your print the max length of your chamber is 2.025". If you are trimming to the stated 2.025" stated in the thread then your brass has no place to flow, thus causing your problem and the Nosler/Norma will only make this worse since it's so soft. Have you measured the chamber? What is the length of your fired brass? I always trim .007" shorter than my chamber measures to allow for growth. I think the older longer throated reamer was @ 2.045" if I'm not mistaken. Just my .02 and worth looking into and would be interested in your findings.
Sully
 
Thank you for this post!

No neck turn didn't really work out with my 0.298" neck reamer, but neck turning was worth it. I have a batch of 80 I did then annealed, looking forward to loading those up with 140 Berger Hunting VLDs.
 
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Thank you for this post!

No neck turn didn't really work out with my 0.298" neck reamer, but neck turning was worth it. I have a batch of 80 I did then annealed, looking forward to loading those up with 140 Berger Hunting VLDs.

Why not? What problems did you have?
 
My neck tension was all screwed up. I neck turned the OD to 0.292". Before the OD was 0.297" (after firing). I need to order the bushing die set up like in this thread to do it right. Instead I'm going to order a reamer and use our lathe to ream the inside of the neck then run them through the FL die.

Anyone has dies in stock? Still waiting on mine.
 
I've been using a friends dies at his house and feel bad about bugging him all the time while I do my load development, lol
 
Try Precision Reloading, I picked up my 3 die comp set there it you have to call because they don't update their site very often
 
If I buy a redding comp bullet seating die will I just need to replace the seating stem with a 6.5 stem? If so, there appears to be two different vld seating stems for the 6.5. On precision reloading website there is one for 6.5 grendel 6.5x47 lapua and 6.5 swede there is also one for 260 260 Imp. and 6.5 creedmore. These are both for the redding competition seaters. Which one would be best to get?
 
If I buy a redding comp bullet seating die will I just need to replace the seating stem with a 6.5 stem? If so, there appears to be two different vld seating stems for the 6.5. On precision reloading website there is one for 6.5 grendel 6.5x47 lapua and 6.5 swede there is also one for 260 260 Imp. and 6.5 creedmore. These are both for the redding competition seaters. Which one would be best to get?

I use the part#55746 it's the one for 260 and I have no issues.
 
Thank you for the reply, neither one is in stock at precision reloading but brownells has the other (part #55726) in stock. Im not exactly sure what the difference is yet.
 
If I buy a redding comp bullet seating die will I just need to replace the seating stem with a 6.5 stem? If so, there appears to be two different vld seating stems for the 6.5. On precision reloading website there is one for 6.5 grendel 6.5x47 lapua and 6.5 swede there is also one for 260 260 Imp. and 6.5 creedmore. These are both for the redding competition seaters. Which one would be best to get?

This is incorrect. You cannot put a 6.5 VLD seat stem in a 7 comp die sleeve (actually you could but it wouldn't work very well). Most everybody is using the 7 VLD seat stem in the 7 rsuam comp seat die for the 6.5 rsuam.

Aeon1 posted in the other 6.5 GAP 4S thread that swapping seater stems won't work.
 
Redding #36280 7mm SAUM Type-S Match Die Set with a 7mm VLD seating stem part #55748.
 
I started with new Remington 300 brass, and after necking down, turned necks to .015. After the initial firing, I'm using a .291 bushing with a .293 loaded diameter. Neck tension seems good (130 gr. VLD's), and after finding a sweet spot for seating depth, groups are looking good. Incidentally, while the 300 Rem stuff finished under length, most are needing some trimming after the 4th loading. This Xtreme Hunter is my first exposure to an "other than off the shelf" rifle, and I'm really liking it.
 
Redding #36280 7mm SAUM Type-S Match Die Set with a 7mm VLD seating stem part #55748.

I'm glad I came back to refresh this thread and read the info, I only loaded up some dummies for my smith and had no issues with the 6.5 insert, but after reading I double checked the fitment your spot on. Got the 55748 on order today THANKS!
Sully
 
I started with new Remington 300 brass, and after necking down, turned necks to .015. After the initial firing, I'm using a .291 bushing with a .293 loaded diameter. Neck tension seems good (130 gr. VLD's), and after finding a sweet spot for seating depth, groups are looking good. Incidentally, while the 300 Rem stuff finished under length, most are needing some trimming after the 4th loading. This Xtreme Hunter is my first exposure to an "other than off the shelf" rifle, and I'm really liking it.

That's good news to hear, I've been turning necks and necking up and down brass for a while now and it pays off in accuracy for me for sure. This is my first wildcat though so there are some things for me to pick up, and to make it even more interesting this build is being made a switch barrel on a Bighorn TL2 AW cut so I will be doing 6.5 SAUM Accurate mags and 260 AW mags. My biggest undertaking yet! Should be interesting...
Sully
 
My Surgeon XL will be ready to be picked up this weekend, Yahoo!

The throating with 140 Hybrids will be set for 3.010-15 OACL and the barrel 29" so I'm hoping for some higher fps at medium pressures even though I'm using Norma brass, we'll see. Next week I'll do some barrel break-in and fireform 25 pieces of brass then do a ladder test.

I wish I had 6.5SAUM dies and H-1000. Going to have to use Retumbo for now.
 
I wish I had 6.5SAUM dies

FYI as far as I know no one is making a true 6.5 SAUM die set yet. Most everyone is using a Redding #36280 7mm SAUM Type-S Match Die Set with a 7mm VLD seating stem part #55748. This is what Copper Creek has been selling along with a couple of bushings and I believe a 6.5mm carbide expander.
 
I'm assuming the dies Copper Creek custom ordered are "100% 6.5SAUM" or else I'm buying those parts for the Redding 7SAUM I'm borrowing. My original plan was to send some fired brass off and have Neil Jones make some dies which I still might do.
 
I'm getting 3250fps with the 130's. I have eight firings on one box of 50 brass with good tight tight primer pockets.

I shot my first reloads of my own today. I followed Pat's instructions. Using the Gap load with 130's VLD's 215m primers the best I can get out of my X-Hunter is 3140 fps.
The Copper Creek loaded ammo is 3114. I just got my Oehler 35P chronograph back from getting it tuned up so I feel that is correct. Not sure how you guys are getting 3250 fps without going above the 63 grs of H1000.
Not happy with the grouping so I'll start playing with the oal and see if I can improve it.
 
I shot my first reloads of my own today. I followed Pat's instructions. Using the Gap load with 130's VLD's 215m primers the best I can get out of my X-Hunter is 3140 fps.
The Copper Creek loaded ammo is 3114. I just got my Oehler 35P chronograph back from getting it tuned up so I feel that is correct. Not sure how you guys are getting 3250 fps without going above the 63 grs of H1000.
Not happy with the grouping so I'll start playing with the oal and see if I can improve it.
Remmy brass or Norma? Is this a GAP rifle?
 
Well your FPS isn't to far off but I would think that your groups shouldn't be bad, how did the CC ammo shoot? How many rounds down the pipe?I'm sure it is just a tuning thing as with any new barrel to find out what IT really likes.
 
You never mentioned, how did the CC shoot? I will be shooting 139 & 140's in mine, I also am interested in how this round is going to preform in 10 shot strings. Good luck and keep posting your progress, allot of folks have drank the Kool-Aid and money invested!
 
CC grouped about the same. oal on those were also 2.900 vel was less vel spreads were higher then my hand loads.
 
I'm assuming the dies Copper Creek custom ordered are "100% 6.5SAUM" or else I'm buying those parts for the Redding 7SAUM I'm borrowing. My original plan was to send some fired brass off and have Neil Jones make some dies which I still might do.

Redding does not make a dedicated 6.5 SAUM comp die set at this time. I have talked to them. They have made a custom 6.5 SAUM standard die set in the past for someone. The picture of Copper Creek's Redding die set clearly shows the Redding part number that is a 7mm SAUM set. They add a VLD seat stem, bushing, an expander and their own label.

To add: When this first came out I emailed Josh @ CC and asked if this was a dedicated 6.5 SAUM set or a 7 SAUM set (I already owned a 7mm set). He said it was indeed a 7mm set with the additional parts to make it work so I need not purchase another set. He was upfront and honest about it so I'm sure he'll tell you the same if asked.
 

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Redding does not make a dedicated 6.5 SAUM comp die set at this time. I have talked to them. They have made a custom 6.5 SAUM standard die set in the past for someone. The picture of Copper Creek's Redding die set clearly shows the Redding part number that is a 7mm SAUM set. They add a VLD seat stem, bushing, an expander and their own label.

To add: When this first came out I emailed Josh @ CC and asked if this was a dedicated 6.5 SAUM set or a 7 SAUM set (I already owned a 7mm set). He said it was indeed a 7mm set with the additional parts to make it work so I need not purchase another set. He was upfront and honest about it so I'm sure he'll tell you the same if asked.

Thanks for the heads up.

I'll be sending some cases off to Neil next week then.
 
What is the difference between the those s die set and a type s match die set? I have managed to find a set of the regular type s, will these work?
 
Redding does not make a dedicated 6.5 SAUM comp die set at this time. I have talked to them. They have made a custom 6.5 SAUM standard die set in the past for someone. The picture of Copper Creek's Redding die set clearly shows the Redding part number that is a 7mm SAUM set. They add a VLD seat stem, bushing, an expander and their own label.

To add: When this first came out I emailed Josh @ CC and asked if this was a dedicated 6.5 SAUM set or a 7 SAUM set (I already owned a 7mm set). He said it was indeed a 7mm set with the additional parts to make it work so I need not purchase another set. He was upfront and honest about it so I'm sure he'll tell you the same if asked.

My dies from CC didn't come with the expander... :(
 
Question for you reloading gurus out there. I don't have much H1000 powder and wanted to find a fire form load with H4350 and 140gr Amax. Does anyone have any suggestions on a safe starting point? Anyone have quickload that would be willing to help me out?
 
You are correct^^^^^ but I think only the micro top seaters allow to change out the plugs correct?
 
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Because the Reamer change seems to have a lot of guy’s concerned I thought I would measure different bullets to the lands in both chambers for everyone so everyone can understand the need for the change.
Measurements are COAL to the lands
Case: Rem 6.5 SAUM 4S

Old Reamer Most rifles built had this chamber through July of 2013

140 Berger Hybrid 2.960
140 JLK 2.965
130 JLK 2.965
130 Berger VLD 2.910
140 AMAX 2.880

New Reamer after July or 2013

140 Berger Hybrid 2.920
140 JLK 2.925
130 JLK 2.925
130 Berger VLD 2.860
140 AMAX 2.830

Basically a .040 - .050 depending on type of bullet
 
Little question like that: when you trim with the wilson trimmer, what case holder you use?
 
Little question like that: when you trim with the wilson trimmer, what case holder you use?

I have just tried a un-fired Norma 6.5 Saum case in a Wilson new WSM case holder and it's a perfect fit.
 
Because the Reamer change seems to have a lot of guy’s concerned I thought I would measure different bullets to the lands in both chambers for everyone so everyone can understand the need for the change.
Measurements are COAL to the lands
Case: Rem 6.5 SAUM 4S

Old Reamer Most rifles built had this chamber through July of 2013

140 Berger Hybrid 2.960
140 JLK 2.965
130 JLK 2.965
130 Berger VLD 2.910
140 AMAX 2.880

New Reamer after July or 2013

140 Berger Hybrid 2.920
140 JLK 2.925
130 JLK 2.925
130 Berger VLD 2.860
140 AMAX 2.830

Basically a .040 - .050 depending on type of bullet

Thanks for that info George as this also coincides with the shorter trim length's for the new reamer's. Have you got any info on the 139gr Scenars?
 
Men, I need some help.

I am trying to neck some rem 300 saum brass to 6.5 saum. I have a set of redding custom 6.5 saum dies and a set of redding 7mm saum dies. I thought I could just run the brass through the 7mm dies and then neck to 6.5. No can do the 300 brass collapses
at the neck junction. What do I have to do.

Thanks,

Jim
 
Men, I need some help.

I am trying to neck some rem 300 saum brass to 6.5 saum. I have a set of redding custom 6.5 saum dies and a set of redding 7mm saum dies. I thought I could just run the brass through the 7mm dies and then neck to 6.5. No can do the 300 brass collapses
at the neck junction. What do I have to do.

Thanks,

Jim

Try applying Imperial die wax on the whole outside of the case. Are these bushing dies? I didn't have a single problem necking down with my Norma 300SAUM in a Redding 7S bushing die using a .315 then to a .291 bushing. Maybe your cases were over annealed at the factory???
 
Steve,

That's what I'm thinking over annealed. How do I rectify. I have 150 300 saum from Norma and running them thru just the 6.5 works excellent. I use Anderol Synthetic Lubricant for sizing.
Thanks for info.

Jim
 
Jde mind did the same I had to bevel the outside of my brass it would hang up when neck sizing to 7m size I borrowed the bushing can't remover the size but it need to be a .002 bigger.
 
Ugh. Just primed some brass from CC with Tula LRM primers and the bottom of the primer is sticking out from the base, it's not flat. That's trouble, right?
 
Are you seating primers from your press or with a hand priming tool?
If you don't have a sinclair, 21st century or k&m hand priming tool it is a great investment for consistent primer seating depth.

With a high primer seat your round may be hard to chamber or bolt will not close at all
 
Ugh. Just primed some brass from CC with Tula LRM primers and the bottom of the primer is sticking out from the base, it's not flat. That's trouble, right?

Mine did the same thing. 50 from CC and 50 Norma virgin brass. About twenty required excessive force to seat and 5 required me to pop the primer out and slightly bevel the primer pocket with the Wilson tool. It went in normally after beveling. I will do the bevel on all of the virgin brass next time.

Tim