Chronos
- Thread starter DPcarolina
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A sporter is a nice budget option and the best thing under 300. If you were going to spend 400 on a v3 I would save an extra 150 bucks and get the labradar.
so many ?s / variables. How many rifles you plan on using it with? Do you care about poi shift with something strapped to barrel or do you prefer to have nothing on barrel? If you don't like stuff on barrel then are you going to rig every gun for the under mount magneto? I like my labradar mainly because I can use it with any rig and I get data and actual groups on paper. But to each their own.
Correction on my statement.. meant I hated the LabRadar at first. Not the sensor.. the sensor is a God Send.
LabRadar.. Crowded range, brakes, and cans? Sure.
Let me preface by saying I am not sponsored or promised anything by making this post. I picked up a LabRadar a few months ago and started to quickly see how finicky it was based on MY usage. Yes, I am well aware a majority of LR owners DO NOT have issues. I don't have private property to shoot...
www.snipershide.com
Get both.
I started out with the MS V3, then got on the LR bandwagon. For load dev I take the LR. For matches I pack my MS because out of the case, it all fits in a padded soft tripod case (4" dia x 16") which takes up minimal room in my pack. If I need to verify speed for dope, I am no longer worried about POI shift for 5 rounds.
Have not used my MS for a year now. I keep thinking of selling it and probably should.
I started out with the MS V3, then got on the LR bandwagon. For load dev I take the LR. For matches I pack my MS because out of the case, it all fits in a padded soft tripod case (4" dia x 16") which takes up minimal room in my pack. If I need to verify speed for dope, I am no longer worried about POI shift for 5 rounds.
Have not used my MS for a year now. I keep thinking of selling it and probably should.
Whatever you get, stay away from the old chrony. I swear, that damn thing only works half the time.
I wanted to use the Magnetospeed but my brothers unit and my nephews unit *both* change my POI drastically. Try one before you buy one.
VooDoo
VooDoo
or just get a labradar and not worry about getting added equipment. 
I’ll be trying out my new rifle and my new Wiser mount tomorrow.
I have had both sold the Magnetospeed and now use the Labradar exclusively. It took a few range sessions to get it dial in but now no problems. I haven't found it fragile or finicky, just take good care of it.
I’ve just been going through this same decision. For me there is really no difference in price for the basic unit because I am not going to get the Magnetospeed without a mount so both units are around the same price. That being said I was not going to get the labradar without something solid to mount it on and I did not already own a tripod. I shoot on unlevel ground where it is almost always windy. I also only really plan on using the chrono for load development for the most part with braked rifles and hopefully soon suppressed.
Well I have now purchased a solid tripod because I needed one for shooting but still have been unable to decide between the two chronographs. I want to go with the labradar but am worried about it being finicky reading shot to shot. Some people say it’s not an issue others say it is. If it wasn’t for that one issue I think the labradar wins hands down in my book but I only have experience with mangneto speed and it did what it was supposed to do right off the bat, no issues and very simple in my opinion.
Well I have now purchased a solid tripod because I needed one for shooting but still have been unable to decide between the two chronographs. I want to go with the labradar but am worried about it being finicky reading shot to shot. Some people say it’s not an issue others say it is. If it wasn’t for that one issue I think the labradar wins hands down in my book but I only have experience with mangneto speed and it did what it was supposed to do right off the bat, no issues and very simple in my opinion.
Personally I would try and find a Magnetospeed V3 in the PX. I got mine for $325 shipped and it was like new. I havnt used the Labradar but the Magnetospeed has been excellent for what I use it for.
I am having set-up issues getting to know Labradar, main question is what first range measurement is optimal?
Not sure, I shoot across a big ditch and at 50 yards there is a sort of berm so I set it for v10, v20, v30, v40, v50 but to tell you the truth Ive never bothered looking at those numbers. I just care about the muzzle velocity which is v0 and you dont have to set that.
As mentioned above, v0 (muzzle) is what is important unless you just want to know what the bullet is doing down range. Ballistic calculators use muzzle velocity.
Thanks, I’ve had it out threee times now, with little success working solo, am going out tomorrow with brother and that will help.
Bottom line is LabRadar has a learning curve. What I get from the unit, and the simplicity with which I get it, is definitely worth the initial frustration. I haven't missed a reading in months.
Its little "aiming notch" is not up to par with the capability of the unit. I cut a 3-4" piece of the barrel of a thin ballpoint pen and use it for a "sight" by taping it tightly to the notch. I back away from the unit so I'm looking at a very narrow "view" of my actual target, and that has given me very reliable readings.
I have an APA Little B*ard brake on my 6.5 CM, which has a lot of back blast (to the sides, not up/down). I mitigate this by placing the unit way back and close to the rifle - almost touching the scope turret - so the blast doesn't affect the unit. I use trigger level 3 for the "main rifle." I mount the unit on the square plate sold by LabRadar; I gather data shooting from a solid bench. A buddy of mine mounts his on a large tripod which allows him to put the unit directly over the barrel, avoiding side blast from the brake. Users must be aware that putting a LabRadar within a foot to the side of a side-directing brake is likely to damage the unit if the unit isn't blown right off the bench.
For .223 with no brake, I use trigger level 1 and put the unit about 6-12" to the right of and even with the muzzle (shooting from bench).
For .22, I have to use the extra-cost microphone, which must be placed less than an inch in front of the muzzle - so close that I have to insure that I don't shoot the thing. Trigger level 1, "Handgun" (not "Rifle") settings.
I do use the iPhone app with it. The one caveat is the bluetooth connection drops for any number of reasons, so I make it a habit to bring up the app's device manager and force a reconnect every time before I arm the unit. Again, it can be argued that's kludgy - actually, no argument, it IS kludgy - but again, it's worth it.
Finally, I can't vouch for or advise on using a LabRadar on close or cluttered ranges. I suspect, based on my experience, that it would have to be very carefully aimed and puttered with.
Its little "aiming notch" is not up to par with the capability of the unit. I cut a 3-4" piece of the barrel of a thin ballpoint pen and use it for a "sight" by taping it tightly to the notch. I back away from the unit so I'm looking at a very narrow "view" of my actual target, and that has given me very reliable readings.
I have an APA Little B*ard brake on my 6.5 CM, which has a lot of back blast (to the sides, not up/down). I mitigate this by placing the unit way back and close to the rifle - almost touching the scope turret - so the blast doesn't affect the unit. I use trigger level 3 for the "main rifle." I mount the unit on the square plate sold by LabRadar; I gather data shooting from a solid bench. A buddy of mine mounts his on a large tripod which allows him to put the unit directly over the barrel, avoiding side blast from the brake. Users must be aware that putting a LabRadar within a foot to the side of a side-directing brake is likely to damage the unit if the unit isn't blown right off the bench.
For .223 with no brake, I use trigger level 1 and put the unit about 6-12" to the right of and even with the muzzle (shooting from bench).
For .22, I have to use the extra-cost microphone, which must be placed less than an inch in front of the muzzle - so close that I have to insure that I don't shoot the thing. Trigger level 1, "Handgun" (not "Rifle") settings.
I do use the iPhone app with it. The one caveat is the bluetooth connection drops for any number of reasons, so I make it a habit to bring up the app's device manager and force a reconnect every time before I arm the unit. Again, it can be argued that's kludgy - actually, no argument, it IS kludgy - but again, it's worth it.
Finally, I can't vouch for or advise on using a LabRadar on close or cluttered ranges. I suspect, based on my experience, that it would have to be very carefully aimed and puttered with.
ALSO - If you go with a LR, buy a simple USB battery pack. I picked one up from Amazon for a touch less than LR sells theirs. Well worth it. I've done 3 range trips now on a single charge. I also picked up a mini tripod for $12 that works perfect for holding the LR on the bench or prone. As noted, be aware of backblast from brakes and get the external sensor that 021411 linked to above to pick up shots rather than the microphone.
Muzzle velocity is what you want, but verify dope with a V10+ reading. I've picked up powder blast/gas (5100 fps) and have read about the LR picking up the gas not the bullet and skew the readings.
Muzzle velocity is what you want, but verify dope with a V10+ reading. I've picked up powder blast/gas (5100 fps) and have read about the LR picking up the gas not the bullet and skew the readings.
I use a magnetospeed sportier and I don’t mind the poi shift. I shoot suppressed so poi shift is just something I document and get used to. I do all my chronograph work at 100 yds anyway. I did just pick up the XFR adapter and I highly recommend it. It allows you to plug your chrono into your phone and it makes the shorter 100 times better IMO. I haven’t been able to justify the $$ of the lab radar, the magnetospeed works for me.
Got my sporter working with my Wiser mount.
I used one of my old ADM mount to clamp the rod to the rail.
Working really damn well.
I used one of my old ADM mount to clamp the rod to the rail.
Working really damn well.
So on their website they claim to make one for the sporter, you don’t think that works very well or did you not get that version?
Their system works but the clamp offset either collided with my bipod ( with a custom mount I made) or put the bayonet in the gas ports of my brake.
With a normal bipod position it’s a non issue.
