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Re: Correct order for reloading
Here is the order I use:
Deprime with dedicated depriming die
Tumble
Primer uniformer to clean/uniform primer pockets
lube
size
neck uniform if new brass
trim to length, chamfer and debur
tumble
prime
charge & seat bullet
No matter which sequence you use, trimming has to occur after sizing.
Here is the order I use:
Deprime with dedicated depriming die
Tumble
Primer uniformer to clean/uniform primer pockets
lube
size
neck uniform if new brass
trim to length, chamfer and debur
tumble
prime
charge & seat bullet
No matter which sequence you use, trimming has to occur after sizing.
Re: Correct order for reloading
Clean, inspect, lube, resize, clean primer pockets, trim if needed, chamfer, clean lube off, prime, powder, seat.
Clean, inspect, lube, resize, clean primer pockets, trim if needed, chamfer, clean lube off, prime, powder, seat.
Re: Correct order for reloading
I:
1) Deprime with Neil Jones hand decapper
2) Tumble with SS Media, separate media with separator, and dry
3) Anneal
4) Lube and neck size half way to the final neck size. Generally, I lube one case while I am neck sizing the previous case. I use imperial lube.
5) FL size cases
6) Remove lube with rubbing alcohol and microfibre cloth
7) Trim
8) Hand prime
9) Charge
10) Seat
I can move the trim around. It is usually before I prime, but sometimes before I prime. I could see trimming prior to sizing, but I think the key is that you are consistent. You need to either trim before sizing every time or trim after sizing every time.
After you size, the amount to be trimmed changes, which is why you need to be consistent either before or after sizing.
I:
1) Deprime with Neil Jones hand decapper
2) Tumble with SS Media, separate media with separator, and dry
3) Anneal
4) Lube and neck size half way to the final neck size. Generally, I lube one case while I am neck sizing the previous case. I use imperial lube.
5) FL size cases
6) Remove lube with rubbing alcohol and microfibre cloth
7) Trim
8) Hand prime
9) Charge
10) Seat
I can move the trim around. It is usually before I prime, but sometimes before I prime. I could see trimming prior to sizing, but I think the key is that you are consistent. You need to either trim before sizing every time or trim after sizing every time.
After you size, the amount to be trimmed changes, which is why you need to be consistent either before or after sizing.
Re: Correct order for reloading
Some here are much more careful; it also depends how much you shoot. For me, roughly 200 cases last me a season (.308W). I therefore prepare 200 cases once a year (did them over Xmas actually) - these are fired to match the chamber, then neck-sized with a collet die. Trimmed to uniform length and chamfered. Primer pockets are all reamed - this year I also chamfered the edge for ease of future primer seating. This brass is processed and lasts me 6 - 7 reloads (= over 1000 rounds total) in my chamber, then I have to fullsize again. I then anneal and repeat the entire procedure again, only once with each brass batch. That way I get approximately 2.500 rounds out of 200 carefully prepared cases. After that, the season is up and I start anew with a new box of brass
On the typical reloading cycle, I only clean the outside with a rug, neck size and deprime, then tumble, clean the pockets, hand prime, charge and seat.
Some here are much more careful; it also depends how much you shoot. For me, roughly 200 cases last me a season (.308W). I therefore prepare 200 cases once a year (did them over Xmas actually) - these are fired to match the chamber, then neck-sized with a collet die. Trimmed to uniform length and chamfered. Primer pockets are all reamed - this year I also chamfered the edge for ease of future primer seating. This brass is processed and lasts me 6 - 7 reloads (= over 1000 rounds total) in my chamber, then I have to fullsize again. I then anneal and repeat the entire procedure again, only once with each brass batch. That way I get approximately 2.500 rounds out of 200 carefully prepared cases. After that, the season is up and I start anew with a new box of brass
On the typical reloading cycle, I only clean the outside with a rug, neck size and deprime, then tumble, clean the pockets, hand prime, charge and seat.
Re: Correct order for reloading
I am pretty simple compared to most.
1. Tumble
2. Lube with imperial sizing wax
3. FL size and de-prime
4. Clean primer pockets (every other time)
5. Trim, chamfer, debur if needed
6. Charge
7. Seat
I am pretty simple compared to most.
1. Tumble
2. Lube with imperial sizing wax
3. FL size and de-prime
4. Clean primer pockets (every other time)
5. Trim, chamfer, debur if needed
6. Charge
7. Seat
Re: Correct order for reloading
I try not to duplicate steps, back track, or handle brass too many times for time savings. Here's what I've ended up with after a tweek or two. I generally do brass in lots of 500 and a few extra cases for about an hour or two a night. I load Sierra's in 500 so I end up with 4 or 5 extra rounds depending on what's in the box.
Monday
1. Corn cob tumble (cleans the brass for the dies, may be two or three batches)
Monday or Tuesday
2. Lube (spray lube in a gallon bag about 100 per bag)
3. FL size and Deprime
Tuesday and Wednesday (most of the time in the living room infront of the TV)
4. Decrimp primer pocket (if needed, depends if it's the first reload)
5. Trim (RCBS 3 way head) (Any other brass prep gets added here, if needed for example deburr flash holes for 1K line brass)
Wednesday or Thursday
6. Ultrasonic clean (to remove lube and clean brass, 4 or 5 batches in night)
7. Shake dry in towel then air dry over night (or two if I'm feeling lazy)
8. Prime and store until time to load.
I load a hundred a night after work the next week or so. Gives me 500 rounds in about two weeks of an hour or two a night.
If I pick up wet brass and it needs stainless tumbling, I borrow a tumbler and use a universal deprimer before tumbling. This may take an extra day or so and replaces step 1.
I try not to duplicate steps, back track, or handle brass too many times for time savings. Here's what I've ended up with after a tweek or two. I generally do brass in lots of 500 and a few extra cases for about an hour or two a night. I load Sierra's in 500 so I end up with 4 or 5 extra rounds depending on what's in the box.
Monday
1. Corn cob tumble (cleans the brass for the dies, may be two or three batches)
Monday or Tuesday
2. Lube (spray lube in a gallon bag about 100 per bag)
3. FL size and Deprime
Tuesday and Wednesday (most of the time in the living room infront of the TV)
4. Decrimp primer pocket (if needed, depends if it's the first reload)
5. Trim (RCBS 3 way head) (Any other brass prep gets added here, if needed for example deburr flash holes for 1K line brass)
Wednesday or Thursday
6. Ultrasonic clean (to remove lube and clean brass, 4 or 5 batches in night)
7. Shake dry in towel then air dry over night (or two if I'm feeling lazy)
8. Prime and store until time to load.
I load a hundred a night after work the next week or so. Gives me 500 rounds in about two weeks of an hour or two a night.
If I pick up wet brass and it needs stainless tumbling, I borrow a tumbler and use a universal deprimer before tumbling. This may take an extra day or so and replaces step 1.
Re: Correct order for reloading
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BirdEyes</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Here is the order
No matter which sequence you use, trimming has to occur after sizing. </div></div>
Yes.
Sizing first makes the pilot fit the neck better on a hand crank trimmer and gives a more consistent length.
If you use a Giraud, the case needs to be sized first so the shoulder will seat correctly in the shell holder.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BirdEyes</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Here is the order
No matter which sequence you use, trimming has to occur after sizing. </div></div>
Yes.
Sizing first makes the pilot fit the neck better on a hand crank trimmer and gives a more consistent length.
If you use a Giraud, the case needs to be sized first so the shoulder will seat correctly in the shell holder.
Re: Correct order for reloading
I trim after I size for two reasons. 1) I have found I get maximum case growth after sizing. It looks like when I push the case into the die, the excess brass seems to move forward to the neck. 2) I can get my case neck dinged up so that it is out of round (a lot of the time, the ejector forces the neck into the side of the action as I am extracting).
An out of round neck is not good for sizing. But for most cases, I don't know that it matters. The reason that I am pointing this out is that I am trying to move to progressive reloading, which means I will have to trim before sizing. I don't feel bad about that, but I know that I will have to identify out of round necks and run them through a mandrel before trimming.
Given the fact that a sizing die is not designed to change the shoulder-to-case mouth dimension, I don't think it will make much of a difference in the Giraud as long as it is done consistently (i.e., always before sizing or always after sizing).
I trim after I size for two reasons. 1) I have found I get maximum case growth after sizing. It looks like when I push the case into the die, the excess brass seems to move forward to the neck. 2) I can get my case neck dinged up so that it is out of round (a lot of the time, the ejector forces the neck into the side of the action as I am extracting).
An out of round neck is not good for sizing. But for most cases, I don't know that it matters. The reason that I am pointing this out is that I am trying to move to progressive reloading, which means I will have to trim before sizing. I don't feel bad about that, but I know that I will have to identify out of round necks and run them through a mandrel before trimming.
Given the fact that a sizing die is not designed to change the shoulder-to-case mouth dimension, I don't think it will make much of a difference in the Giraud as long as it is done consistently (i.e., always before sizing or always after sizing).
Re: Correct order for reloading
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Carter Mayfield</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Given the fact that a sizing die is not designed to change the shoulder-to-case mouth dimension, <span style="color: #FF0000">I don't think it will make much of a difference in the Giraud as long as it is done consistently</span> (i.e., always before sizing or always after sizing). </div></div>
It makes a big difference with my Giraud trimmer.
My brass will not fit in the shell holder before it is sized.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Carter Mayfield</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Given the fact that a sizing die is not designed to change the shoulder-to-case mouth dimension, <span style="color: #FF0000">I don't think it will make much of a difference in the Giraud as long as it is done consistently</span> (i.e., always before sizing or always after sizing). </div></div>
It makes a big difference with my Giraud trimmer.
My brass will not fit in the shell holder before it is sized.
Re: Correct order for reloading
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Carter Mayfield</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The reason that I am pointing this out is that I am trying to move to progressive reloading, which means I will have to trim before sizing. I don't feel bad about that, but I know that I will have to identify out of round necks and run them through a mandrel before trimming.
Given the fact that a sizing die is not designed to change the shoulder-to-case mouth dimension, I don't think it will make much of a difference in the Giraud as long as it is done consistently (i.e., always before sizing or always after sizing). </div></div>
A couple of points. Moving to a progressive does not make mandatory trimming before sizing. Many loading high accuracy ammo process the brass using a separate toolhead and never size at one station while seating a bullet at another. Aside from that even the Dillon 1200B trimmer cuts as the case is sized, not before.
One of the reasons to trim every time especially with a device such as Giraud's trimmer from an accuracy perspecive is to ensure that all brass is the same size. Consistency is the name of the game in reloading and shooting for the most accurate results. As pointed out, attempting to trim before sizing will many times fail with a Giraud and most trimmers using a pilot that should fit tightly. Most of the brass expansion takes place as you size i.e. the OAL is changed. It is from the sized reference point that you can make the brass all the same length. Doing so beforehand can leave brass at different lengths after sizing. Yes they will likely work and you may never notice or experience a problem. There are many steps taken to gain an advantage that many will never benefit from due to skill level limitations. If you are going to take the time to perform a step anyway, I'd suggest doing so in a sequence that makes any available advantage accessible as a matter of good practice.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Carter Mayfield</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The reason that I am pointing this out is that I am trying to move to progressive reloading, which means I will have to trim before sizing. I don't feel bad about that, but I know that I will have to identify out of round necks and run them through a mandrel before trimming.
Given the fact that a sizing die is not designed to change the shoulder-to-case mouth dimension, I don't think it will make much of a difference in the Giraud as long as it is done consistently (i.e., always before sizing or always after sizing). </div></div>
A couple of points. Moving to a progressive does not make mandatory trimming before sizing. Many loading high accuracy ammo process the brass using a separate toolhead and never size at one station while seating a bullet at another. Aside from that even the Dillon 1200B trimmer cuts as the case is sized, not before.
One of the reasons to trim every time especially with a device such as Giraud's trimmer from an accuracy perspecive is to ensure that all brass is the same size. Consistency is the name of the game in reloading and shooting for the most accurate results. As pointed out, attempting to trim before sizing will many times fail with a Giraud and most trimmers using a pilot that should fit tightly. Most of the brass expansion takes place as you size i.e. the OAL is changed. It is from the sized reference point that you can make the brass all the same length. Doing so beforehand can leave brass at different lengths after sizing. Yes they will likely work and you may never notice or experience a problem. There are many steps taken to gain an advantage that many will never benefit from due to skill level limitations. If you are going to take the time to perform a step anyway, I'd suggest doing so in a sequence that makes any available advantage accessible as a matter of good practice.
Re: Correct order for reloading
surprised how many deprime before they tumble...especially with corn media! I like to tumble first and then deprime. This always saves the extra step of having to clean media out of primer pockets. I really need to invest in stainless but reloading is complicated enough.
I too trim after resizing - bumping shoulders/sizing before resizing is defeating the whole purpose of trimming for consistency.
surprised how many deprime before they tumble...especially with corn media! I like to tumble first and then deprime. This always saves the extra step of having to clean media out of primer pockets. I really need to invest in stainless but reloading is complicated enough.
I too trim after resizing - bumping shoulders/sizing before resizing is defeating the whole purpose of trimming for consistency.
Re: Correct order for reloading
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: dMac</div><div class="ubbcode-body">surprised how many deprime before they tumble...especially with corn media! I like to tumble first and then deprime. This always saves the extra step of having to clean media out of primer pockets. I really need to invest in stainless but reloading is complicated enough.
I too trim after resizing - bumping shoulders/sizing before resizing is defeating the whole purpose of trimming for consistency. </div></div>
I also deprime before tumbling with lee universal decapping die and tumble with stainless it does a great job cleaning primer pockets then: inspect, anneal if need be, lube, size, trim, chamfer, beburr, may tumble shortly again to remove lube. inspect, prime, charge, seat bullet, inspect.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: dMac</div><div class="ubbcode-body">surprised how many deprime before they tumble...especially with corn media! I like to tumble first and then deprime. This always saves the extra step of having to clean media out of primer pockets. I really need to invest in stainless but reloading is complicated enough.
I too trim after resizing - bumping shoulders/sizing before resizing is defeating the whole purpose of trimming for consistency. </div></div>
I also deprime before tumbling with lee universal decapping die and tumble with stainless it does a great job cleaning primer pockets then: inspect, anneal if need be, lube, size, trim, chamfer, beburr, may tumble shortly again to remove lube. inspect, prime, charge, seat bullet, inspect.
Re: Correct order for reloading
I'm one of the 'newbies' but my procedure is working as at 700yards on a 6inch target it's all the shooter. Multiple strings of 5 hits in a row.
Thanks to all who contribute on this site and other authors.
This is my 'normal' reload program for rifle cartridges:
Neck brush. this is my first inspection. I just prefer to knock the junk out so I get a consistent bullet release.
Anneal. If needed on this cycle. Some where from every 3rd to every 10th firing depending on caliber and how much I'm stressing the brass, hot loads = more often. The neck brushing also means less soot to flake off in later processes.
Tumble. I use plain walnut but sometimes I add car wax spray.
Size & deprime. If a 'hunting' round, always FL, if an 'accuracy' round NS unless annealed then FL.
Trim. I length check first and only trim if max case length, then trim back .003 to .005 and no shorter than minimum trim to. Some day I'll get my neck length modified cases done then I will keep the neck length .005 to .010 shorter than the neck space in the chamber.
Primer pocket uniform, if annealed. I don't want to over work the primer pocket.
Tumble. If I full length sized to get the lube off. It also knocks the burr off the outside of the case mouth from trimming.
Primer pocket brush. Inspect cases again and make sure no media is stuck in flash hole.
Champher and deburr. If I didn't trim this is just a touch up and inspection, otherwise it's a full job.
Prime and place in loading block case mouth down. I always hand prime, just me.
Charge, seat, shoot. With random QC checks for runout and COAL/OOAL.
It is my belief that one purpose of the wax is to coat the cases to prevent tarnish. My assembled cartridges don't last that long.
I'm one of the 'newbies' but my procedure is working as at 700yards on a 6inch target it's all the shooter. Multiple strings of 5 hits in a row.
Thanks to all who contribute on this site and other authors.
This is my 'normal' reload program for rifle cartridges:
Neck brush. this is my first inspection. I just prefer to knock the junk out so I get a consistent bullet release.
Anneal. If needed on this cycle. Some where from every 3rd to every 10th firing depending on caliber and how much I'm stressing the brass, hot loads = more often. The neck brushing also means less soot to flake off in later processes.
Tumble. I use plain walnut but sometimes I add car wax spray.
Size & deprime. If a 'hunting' round, always FL, if an 'accuracy' round NS unless annealed then FL.
Trim. I length check first and only trim if max case length, then trim back .003 to .005 and no shorter than minimum trim to. Some day I'll get my neck length modified cases done then I will keep the neck length .005 to .010 shorter than the neck space in the chamber.
Primer pocket uniform, if annealed. I don't want to over work the primer pocket.
Tumble. If I full length sized to get the lube off. It also knocks the burr off the outside of the case mouth from trimming.
Primer pocket brush. Inspect cases again and make sure no media is stuck in flash hole.
Champher and deburr. If I didn't trim this is just a touch up and inspection, otherwise it's a full job.
Prime and place in loading block case mouth down. I always hand prime, just me.
Charge, seat, shoot. With random QC checks for runout and COAL/OOAL.
It is my belief that one purpose of the wax is to coat the cases to prevent tarnish. My assembled cartridges don't last that long.
Re: Correct order for reloading
Tumble
Inspect
Trim (if needed)
Lube
Run through 550
Shoot
Repeat
Tumble
Inspect
Trim (if needed)
Lube
Run through 550
Shoot
Repeat
Re: Correct order for reloading
For those that use something like the Redding bushing NS die/body die combination do you size necks then bump shoulders or bump shoulders then neck size?
If I had it to do over I would just buy the bushing FL die but I didn't.
For those that use something like the Redding bushing NS die/body die combination do you size necks then bump shoulders or bump shoulders then neck size?
If I had it to do over I would just buy the bushing FL die but I didn't.
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