JUST GOT MY SHIPPING NOTICE!
Long Action Right Hand - Order placed 2/11, Order shipped 8/11
Long Action Right Hand - Order placed 2/11, Order shipped 8/11
- Thread starter karagias
- Start date
Got my shipping notice for a SA CDG and action wrench yesterday (ordered 2/13)! We'll get to see if any of the improvements made to the LA were also done to my SA. I'm anxiously waiting for the LA I ordered at the same time to come in!
Heard rumors the mysterious Left handed never before seen in the wild will be headed towards my home here in the next couple weeks... but bigfoot said he needed it a little longer before the aliens were done with it.
I think I finally figured out which cartridge for the CDG. 6BR.
jellyfish here!
First step is to make sure it is properly orientated to the action.
You need to remove the bolt release from the trigger, it's not needed with the CDG.
You also need to remove some material from the hanger around the safety for the timney to work. Part of why the new ones are cut out a bit. A couple minutes with a 7 axis milling machine will do the trick.
I dont think it has anything to do with the release, the hanger is hitting the shelf on the trigger.
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You still should remove the bolt release as the CDG doesn't have a trigger lever operated bolt release like a factory 700 action. You may not be able to insert the trigger into the action with the bolt release sticking up from the trigger, there's no cut in the action to accommodate the bolt release lever like on a factory Remington 700 action. Even if it did fit with the bolt release lever on the trigger I wouldn't want it loose and flopping around.
You will need to clearance the trigger hanger as needed depending on your trigger. Many aftermarket triggers are larger than a factory Remington 700 trigger, and they're all larger in different areas-- bumps on the housing, larger safety lever with different bends, extra safety linkage, etc. Every brand is different. Just grind/file the hanger as needed and don't take too much.
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There’s gotta be 1000’s if not 10s of thousands of different iterations of trigger body designs and revisions over the years. So it’s inevitable you’ll eventually run across one that they didn’t account for. The good news is you know where it’s interfering and looks like an easy 20 second fix with a hand file to get it working.
Im willing to bet you've bought plenty of other shit that a manufacturer has quietly refined, whether it be due to processes changing internally, supplier differences, or customer feedback. The difference is they likely realized that the hamster wheel would completely fall off its mount, and shatter your reality irreversibly, if you found out, and just decided it was best to not tell you about it.
Everyone that's running a BnA trigger, what sear height are you using?
Medium sear is right in the middle of the acceptable engagement range on my CDG according to the chart from Bix.
And what was the deal with being able to use one… You have to modify the trigger hanger?
Original trigger hanger needs a bit of extra clearance made for the safety lever. It looks like the new hangers with the clearance cut will fit as is, but I don't have one to test fit.
You also need to remove material from the front of the thumb stud on the safety lever so it will fully disengage, it hits the action in the fire position and can hang up the sear in the trigger.
Edit: pic of safety lever and hanger mod
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Exactly what I did. Got the dremel out and clearanced the hanger and ground the front edge of safety knob off, all good now with medium sear. Love me some BnA action!
Just got my shipping notice. Ordered 3/1.
Long action 20 moa.
Long action 20 moa.
Any tips on getting the bolt apart? I push the copper colored piece back and rotate the rear assembly area, but nothing comes apart. Yes, I watch the vague video multiple times.
Yeah can't get past step one. Mine doesn't just come apart after I press the plunger and twist.
Bolt facing away from you, handle to your left (right hand action), pull the little gold plunger back with your right finger nail, & while holding plunger in turn to right.
First time I tried to take the bolt apart I turned the wrong way and it didn't come apart. You have to push the plunger in and turn it clockwise and it should turn maybe 1/8th turn and pull right out. Don't lose the plunger and spring.
That gold plunger has to be clocked a certain way, or it won't retract far enough to allow the cocking piece to rotate out to its raceway to release spring tension. Also important to remember this in reassembly.
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Ah clock wise.
Yes looking at it from the back/bolt shroud end.
Do not eat the Green Crayons before attempting disassembly.
I only eat red crayons. I don't like veggies.
Hmm 20 Moa you say..... are all of the LA's in circulation 20moa?.....this makes me sad lol....got all excited when I seen 2/11....but I went 30moa LA
Its not vague per se, but its not specific either. Its definitely made by the guy who has done it 1000 times and isn't thinking necessarily about the guy with a heavy crayon diet who's never done it. I got it apart fine but not after watching it once. I also managed to launch my cocking piece into the unknown, but that was me being a dumbass. I ordered another one and figured as soon as I did I'd find it, which is exactly what happened. Not bad to have a spare as well as a few other spare parts which I also ordered. Sucks having hands that are getting clumsier by the day.
My LA was 30 moa, magnum bolt head, ordered on the first evening and ready to ship.
Are there any numbers on the side of the magazine latch?
1.10 and 0.34 are engraved on the side of the standard length latch. ARC measures the latch from the center of the pivot pin hole to the top of the latch where it impinges on the magazine.
Carbon Six just lost any chance at my business in the future. If they don't want to make one they should not. But to characterize the cone print as "weird." It makes it seem that they are too dumb to read a print.
Yeah I haven’t had a whole lot of time to play with my CDG and Xylo since I got back from sodomyland ie England.
My observations so far
Pulled 6.5 CM barrel, flat breech barrel from my Nuke 2.0. Doesn’t feed with AW magazines due to the flat breech but by filling down the polymer AICS mag latch on one of my MDT Polymer AICS just a little bit, I’m able to feed and cycle which is what I’ll probably do with this barrel until I burn it out.
I also got the 223 BF and same thing, by modifying the MDT polymer AICS 223 mag, it seems like I’m able to easily strip the rounds and the bolt is clearing the feed lips. This should allow me to keeping running the CDG/ Xylo as a “switch barrel” platform without having to swap mag latch between my future coned 6Dasher with AW, 6.5 creed with AICS and 223 with AICS.
Also the good thing about the MDT polymer AICS is that they’re already set for 2.550” coal which is perfect for my plan of a 223 rem 100FB chambering.
That’s exactly what they are. At least pretend to be a machinist.
They lost my business after my family bought several barrels that had various issues. Of the 6 barrels I’ve seen 3 had bad chambers, two pressure out several grains below what the rest of my rifles do and the 6th I haven’t shot enough to know if it’s good or not.
I’ve dropped them for X-Caliber, so far the one shoots great and the other two will be tested in the next month or two.
Does anyone have a picture of the .588" bolt head? Would love to see how much meat is left on it.
I agree. Not bad for a demonstration but IMO inadequate for an instructional video. Too fast, camera distance too far in a good bit of it, needs to be done in a studio (not on a fucking range with the wind blowing) with stops to show images of what is being discussed at that time sort of thing, etc.
What you really want them to do (IMO) is give the item and some written instructions to a total neophyte (like a non-shooter) and see if they can follow them and successfully disassemble/reassemble the item in question. If not, then instructions need to be revised.
RRS vid on disassembly and tuning up the OG Anvil-30 was the same. Parts flying out and tech moving quickly because he already has done it a thousand times. The vid on the updated Anvil is much better...but, adjusting it up is also much easier.
Take it with a grain of salt...I can and will break almost anything mechanical so I may not be the best source of comments! haha
I don't watch it but it seems like all the brass ends up in the 3 o'clock area. 6.5C
That’s what I’m use to but unfortunately it’s ending up between 1 and 230. Normally I wouldn’t worry about it but being a comp rifle I’ll lose more brass than I’m willing.
Yep my 308 is doing that. I have a new/spare ejector lever on the way from ARC. Nothing wrong with the original, but want to modify one to see If I can bring ejection pattern around to at least 3 oclock.
I'll post results here.
At least I’m not the only one. What’s your plan on modifying the ejector? I’ve called ARC and left a voicemail today, so hopefully I’ll talk with someone tomorrow.
Change the angle of the dangle. Small changes.
Mine only does it noticeably when on the clock running it pretty fast.
It ejects fine but there were like a dozen 308's shooting Tac class & I had to leave any brass laying till end of match if it ejected in front of the line.
My precious RWS brass.............oh the agony.
Seriously though, not that big a deal. Just figured I'd get a spare and see if I can tweak the pattern around a bit.
I assembled my rifle after receiving my action in the mail - everything came together more or less alright.
- LA RH .535 bolt CDG
- preferred barrel blanks - 20 inch taperless .750 contour - chome moly blued blasted. 7mm PRC
- XLR Element 4 MG
- trigger tech primary
Torqued the action to 100 lb feet - extremely dismayed to see the action easily close on the no-go gauge (manson reamers). Has anyone else here had similar issues?
- LA RH .535 bolt CDG
- preferred barrel blanks - 20 inch taperless .750 contour - chome moly blued blasted. 7mm PRC
- XLR Element 4 MG
- trigger tech primary
Torqued the action to 100 lb feet - extremely dismayed to see the action easily close on the no-go gauge (manson reamers). Has anyone else here had similar issues?
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Does it close on a field gauge?
I don't own a CDG, but over the weekend I shot the Peterson Cartridge Challenge PRS match at MKM Precision in Kennerdell, PA. There was a shooter in my squad that was running the CDG and he loved the action. It performed flawlessly and he said it's the best action he's ever used. He did have some feed issues after dropping a mag on the ground, but that was attributed to the magazine having a raised burr from the drop. After that was smoothed out, the feeding issues went away. I run a Zermatt Origin and was impressed by the CDG. It was the first one I've had the chance to see in the field.
