CZ 457

AirGunShawn

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I have been reading about the ignition on the 455's being improved with a new spring, anyone know if the spring is the same from the 455 to the 457? I'm mainly just playing around to see what I can get out of the little gun so I figured a cheap spring would be worth trying.
I was looking at the CZ web site and they have lots of small parts cheap. Little stuff like pins and springs for around 2.00 bucks. They probably just changed something simple like the wire diameter to change the spring rate to increase the firing pin impact force. Also McMaster Carr and Lee springs would be a good place to get springs. Avoid stainless steel as they actually have a spring rate of approximately 85% of the music wire type. Meaning they are weaker given the same size. I just looked at taking my 457 bolt apart.... what a PITA!
 

drglock

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I was looking at the CZ web site and they have lots of small parts cheap. Little stuff like pins and springs for around 2.00 bucks. They probably just changed something simple like the wire diameter to change the spring rate to increase the firing pin impact force. Also McMaster Carr and Lee springs would be a good place to get springs. Avoid stainless steel as they actually have a spring rate of approximately 85% of the music wire type. Meaning they are weaker given the same size. I just looked at taking my 457 bolt apart.... what a PITA!
Actually it’s quite simple to tear down the bolt on a 457 and should take you less than a minute to do it.
 

reichco457

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AirGunShawn

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Actually it’s quite simple to tear down the bolt on a 457 and should take you less than a minute to do it.
Can you tell me what I missed? I had trouble with the cross pin and stopped there. I did think that if I took the extractor and front clip off, the firing pin may just tilt up and allow for removal of the pin. I just have not done it yet as mine was not need of any service.
 

AirGunShawn

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Hi Guy's..... I need a semi auto for next year and wanted something different. Has anybody heard anything about the Kriss Defiance DMK22C .22LR? I could get a Ruger or even a Bergara but I really dislike the box magazine they use. It appers to be totally customizable just like any AR and is made in the USA and constructed of aluminum.
You can also swap out any type of Ruger bbl. into it if you like. I would love to hear from anyone who has one.
 

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MDrimfirerookie

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Hi Guy's..... I need a semi auto for next year and wanted something different. Has anybody heard anything about the Kriss Defiance DMK22C .22LR? I could get a Ruger or even a Bergara but I really dislike the box magazine they use. It appers to be totally customizable just like any AR and is made in the USA and constructed of aluminum.
You can also swap out any type of Ruger bbl. into it if you like. I would love to hear from anyone who has one.
 

drglock

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Can you tell me what I missed? I had trouble with the cross pin and stopped there. I did think that if I took the extractor and front clip off, the firing pin may just tilt up and allow for removal of the pin. I just have not done it yet as mine was not need of any service.
After removing the bolt put the bolt in the closed position and stand the bolt on end and from the the rear of the bolt compress it down . The cross pin will push out then.
 
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flatland1

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AirGunShawn - I bought a CLE (Compass Lake Engineering) 22RF dedicated AR SR upper back in the late '90 to use for practicing offhand & slow prone shooting while I was in the hunt for leg points. It was very accurate, at times out-shooting my Anschutz 1611, and definitely helped me leg-out & earn my Distinguished Rifleman Badge. After I legged-out, I sold that upper to a good friend who was also working on his Badge. Eventually, I missed it to the point that I bought another modified conversion unit & Douglas SS match bbl from CLE, and put together another dedicated 22RF upper. It shoots at least as good as that first one did, and actually out-shot my Stiller 2500XR/Krieger & 40X/Benchmark 22RF repeaters at 200yds with a select lot of SK Std+. My only regret is that I had Frank do the bbl on this one in a heavy SR contour & 20" length, so the resulting rifle is just as heavy as a match grade 223 upper. If I had it to do over again, I'd have had him turn it to a lighter contour, and probably finish at 18" instead of 20", so I wouldn't have to lug around so much weight.

I've never shot anything but match grade std vel ammo through either of those uppers, and at times - especially in cold weather - it'll fail to fully cycle for the first few rounds. I don't know if running hi vel ammo through it would damage anything, but have been shooting it with Lapua Polar Biathlon, which typically chronographs at very nearly 1100fps. That gives better reliability, something that was never a concern when shooting the original upper only in offhand & slow prone. I bought three Black Dog 10rd magazines for it, as I find them easier to load than the little 10rd insert mags that come with the M261 conversion unit. Just wish Black Dog would see fit to reduce the length of these mags to the same as a 20rd GI mag, as they're the same length as a 30rd GI mag, which makes it impossible to shoot off a bench. For bench ammo accuracy testing, I just revert back to the little insert mags. I put a Geissele B-G2S-E trigger in the lower of this rifle, replacing the RRA 2-stage NM trigger I'd set the lower up with, because the RRA trigger gives all sorts of cycling issues due to too much spring tension. The Geissele is a sweet trigger, and improved cycling a bunch.
 

AirGunShawn

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Hello Dennis
AirGunShawn - I bought a CLE (Compass Lake Engineering) 22RF dedicated AR SR upper back in the late '90 to use for practicing offhand & slow prone shooting while I was in the hunt for leg points. It was very accurate, at times out-shooting my Anschutz 1611, and definitely helped me leg-out & earn my Distinguished Rifleman Badge. After I legged-out, I sold that upper to a good friend who was also working on his Badge. Eventually, I missed it to the point that I bought another modified conversion unit & Douglas SS match bbl from CLE, and put together another dedicated 22RF upper. It shoots at least as good as that first one did, and actually out-shot my Stiller 2500XR/Krieger & 40X/Benchmark 22RF repeaters at 200yds with a select lot of SK Std+. My only regret is that I had Frank do the bbl on this one in a heavy SR contour & 20" length, so the resulting rifle is just as heavy as a match grade 223 upper. If I had it to do over again, I'd have had him turn it to a lighter contour, and probably finish at 18" instead of 20", so I wouldn't have to lug around so much weight.

I've never shot anything but match grade std vel ammo through either of those uppers, and at times - especially in cold weather - it'll fail to fully cycle for the first few rounds. I don't know if running hi vel ammo through it would damage anything, but have been shooting it with Lapua Polar Biathlon, which typically chronographs at very nearly 1100fps. That gives better reliability, something that was never a concern when shooting the original upper only in offhand & slow prone. I bought three Black Dog 10rd magazines for it, as I find them easier to load than the little 10rd insert mags that come with the M261 conversion unit. Just wish Black Dog would see fit to reduce the length of these mags to the same as a 20rd GI mag, as they're the same length as a 30rd GI mag, which makes it impossible to shoot off a bench. For bench ammo accuracy testing, I just revert back to the little insert mags. I put a Geissele B-G2S-E trigger in the lower of this rifle, replacing the RRA 2-stage NM trigger I'd set the lower up with, because the RRA trigger gives all sorts of cycling issues due to too much spring tension. The Geissele is a sweet trigger, and improved cycling a bunch.
Hello Dennis, I have a lower with a Geissele SSP trigger that I can use. I would prefer to have a higher quality upper from CLE than a mediocre .22 rifle. Could you post a photo of your upper please? If you don't mind me asking.... how much was your upper? As I recall, my SSP is about 3.25 lbs. but it doesn't feel like it at all. Your right.... they are very sweet
Thanks so much
Shawn Carroll
 

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AirGunShawn

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After removing the bolt put the bolt in the closed position and stand the bolt on end and from the the rear of the bolt compress it down . The cross pin will push out then.
After looking at the exploded parts diagram, I could see that the firing pin has a slot with a hole at one end. That would mean that the firing pin would need to be in the fired or relaxed position. The bolt closed position. And since I did not want to fight with the spring, I put the bolt in a wooden clamp. My pin was a pain to remove. I did it your way as well, and it was also a pain. It appears that I have a burr or a very tight fit between my pin and the firing pin slot. Please don't misunderstand this, I do appreciate your reply. I was hopeful that I had missed something.
Shawn
 

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flatland1

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Shawn,
Don't have much of a close-up photo of the complete rifle, this will have to do for now. I put the rifle together with mostly Aero Precision parts, including an upper w/o forward assist. The handguard is an AP 15" unit, and the scope riser is a Weaver with an additional 20 MOA slope built in. I put it all together with parts I had in stock, thus some of them are CeraKoted in Magpul FDE, and part are anodized black. A complete match rifle 22RF upper is listed on CLE's site for $950, that's with a SS Douglas match grade bbl in your choice of 22"-24"-26", and it comes with one insert magazine & Frank's delrin single loading device. I bought just the bbl & modified M261 conversion unit and put it together for considerably less than that, although I don't recall now just how much the total of the parts cost me - to tell the truth, I tend not to add this sort of stuff up, since I don't really want to know what my 22RF addiction has cost me... Pretty sure my original SR 22RF upper was over $900 back in the late 90's, and that was with a modified rear sight with 1/4 MOA clicks.

I recall breaking a firing pin with that first 22 upper; don't recall whether it was because of some mistake I made or ?? But it was easy to find another pin - whether I got it from Frank at CLE, or Gun Parts Corp, I can't say. Never happened again, nor yet on this current upper, but I did buy two new FPs, and still have the one I didn't use. I've currently got a little 1" Weaver 3-15x42 Super Slam scope on it - since I don't shoot it much, it's good enough for what I do with it. If I were going to get serious about shooting it in matches, I'd swap the Weaver out for something like an Athlon Midas TAC 6-24x50. It's a lot easier to remember 100-200yd come-ups with a mil scope, since that's what all my other precision 22RF bolt rifles have on them, and having a scope with 10 mils/revolution & a zero stop is a must if you're going to be clicking from 50yds out to 200 or more and back. The Weaver Super Slams have really good glass though, and since I didn't have any other use for the 3-15, it went on the 22 upper.
 

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AirGunShawn

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I called Kriss yesterday, December 16th. regarding the firing pin breaks. They claim that they have a revision in place. Has anyone married a Kriss upper to a .223 lower. It would be the quickest way for me to swap out all of the lower parts. If the buffer tube becomes a problem, I can defeat the buffer and buffer spring.

Any information that you can give me regarding swapping out the parts.
Whatever gun I get, I plan on topping it off with a Trijicon 5-50x56 MOA. Or maybe a Athlon Cronus.
 

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drglock

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After looking at the exploded parts diagram, I could see that the firing pin has a slot with a hole at one end. That would mean that the firing pin would need to be in the fired or relaxed position. The bolt closed position. And since I did not want to fight with the spring, I put the bolt in a wooden clamp. My pin was a pain to remove. I did it your way as well, and it was also a pain. It appears that I have a burr or a very tight fit between my pin and the firing pin slot. Please don't misunderstand this, I do appreciate your reply. I was hopeful that I had missed something.
Shawn
You are correct on the bolt needing to be in the open. Mine was really easy to push out. Hopefully it is something as simple as a burr . Keep us informed.
 

AirGunShawn

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You are correct on the bolt needing to be in the open. Mine was really easy to push out. Hopefully it is something as simple as a burr . Keep us informed.
Hello Dr. Glock,
I have a 457 MTR and also a 457 Royal and it's pin is the same tight fit. That means that I am going to have to work on both of them. As the firing pin must be in it's full forward position for the "locking pin" to slide out freely. I am going to look into some other ways to take apart the bolt. From my point of view, gun manufactures are pretty clever people so the are not going to make something difficult to work on. I will be happy to let you all know what I find.

I also dipped a toe in the Kriss Defiance DMK22 pond. I just bought a couple magazines for inspection.
It is to bad that they don't have the loading assist buttons like the Vudoo magazines do.

Chat soon
Shawn
 

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JMcBurn

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Hello Dr. Glock,
I have a 457 MTR and also a 457 Royal and it's pin is the same tight fit. That means that I am going to have to work on both of them. As the firing pin must be in it's full forward position for the "locking pin" to slide out freely. I am going to look into some other ways to take apart the bolt. From my point of view, gun manufactures are pretty clever people so the are not going to make something difficult to work on. I will be happy to let you all know what I find.

I also dipped a toe in the Kriss Defiance DMK22 pond. I just bought a couple magazines for inspection.
It is to bad that they don't have the loading assist buttons like the Vudoo magazines do.

Chat soon
Shawn
Shawn,

Take a look at the m&p 15-22 mags, they have a button and only need a mag well adapter.
 

padom

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I have been reading about the ignition on the 455's being improved with a new spring, anyone know if the spring is the same from the 455 to the 457? I'm mainly just playing around to see what I can get out of the little gun so I figured a cheap spring would be worth trying.
I got a pack of Don's springs when.he retired. And put them in my 3 CZ's.nnkt sure if I have anymore left.
 
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Dougnutz

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I've been bitten by the nrl 22 bug. My 457 MTR came in two days ago and made a trip to the range the next day. I had a box full of different ammo to try out. I found that it likes just about anything with "match" in the title. Other ammo even the cci will sometimes be hard to feed. Meaning hard to close the bolt. Like the round goes in 99% of the way but that last little bit takes some effort to make the bolt close. All of the match grade stuff fed fine and the bolt closed "normal".

I know that CZ says this rifle has a "match" chamber, is this the cause of the tight to close bolt on the non match ammo? I'm wondering if this is normal or if there may be something wrong with the rifle. I've only put about 75 rounds through it at this point. Maybe it will loosen up, or maybe this is normal for this rifle. I plan to shoot match ammo anyway so it probably doesn't matter. But any feedback is appreciated.
 

Kisssofdeath

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I would say it's nothing to be concerned about. The CCI SV bullet profile and driving band is IMO just a tad longer than a lot of other ammo. It's hard to see but in this photo I believe it shows the CCI "top" being longer than the other. Not longer in OAL but the section that engraves the rifling. My rifles are the same as yours when it comes to taking a little extra effort to close the bolt on CCI SV.

1576784701738.png

1576784753022.png
 

flatland1

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I prefer the simplicity and appearance of the VPT's Manners stock over any chassis I've ever seen. Whether shooting offhand, prone, off rests on a bench, or whatever, the Manners stock just fits me to a 'T'. Granted, the VPT stock doesn't have an adjustable cheekpiece, but considering how low the scopes on my 457s sit when using a BScar rail & low rings, I don't need one. I realize that one size doesn't fit all where stocks are concerned, but it'll be interesting to see the price point of the new chassis 457 vs that of the VPT, and then how the chassis sells compared to the VPT.
 

Kisssofdeath

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Flatland1,

Are you well versed in the Manners lineup? I looked at Manners stocks and like their MCS-T4. Concerns are, can I buy one that is readily available or do I have to wait on it to be made and final price when I add an adjustable cheek riser.

With the alternative of the KRG Bravo and its price point, I'm not sure the extra expense of the Manners is warranted. It appears at this moment neither offer the 457 inlet. This reply is not intended to be argumentative but if I could be educated on the Manners by people with first hand knowledge I'd be grateful.
 

MDrimfirerookie

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Flatland1,

Are you well versed in the Manners lineup? I looked at Manners stocks and like their MCS-T4. Concerns are, can I buy one that is readily available or do I have to wait on it to be made and final price when I add an adjustable cheek riser.

With the alternative of the KRG Bravo and its price point, I'm not sure the extra expense of the Manners is warranted. It appears at this moment neither offer the 457 inlet. This reply is not intended to be argumentative but if I could be educated on the Manners by people with first hand knowledge I'd be grateful.
you can buy 457 stocks from manners that are readily available under the ready to ship tab on their site. yesterday when i was on there, i saw 2. they are the VPT stock though. you can special order just about any of their stocks to be inletted for the 457. you would just have to wait the standard 6+ months or so for the stock. unfortunately, the way the online stock builder is set up, you would need to call them direct to get it ordered.

i have heard a bunch of chatter that the krg bravo for the 457 will be out after the first of the year
 

flatland1

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Flatland1,

Are you well versed in the Manners lineup? I looked at Manners stocks and like their MCS-T4. Concerns are, can I buy one that is readily available or do I have to wait on it to be made and final price when I add an adjustable cheek riser.

With the alternative of the KRG Bravo and its price point, I'm not sure the extra expense of the Manners is warranted. It appears at this moment neither offer the 457 inlet. This reply is not intended to be argumentative but if I could be educated on the Manners by people with first hand knowledge I'd be grateful.
I've got 10 Manners stocks - six T4As, three PRS1Ts (including the one on the VPT), and a V-22 sporter in an EH2. The A in the T4A stands for adjustable cheekpiece - four of mine are on Bighorn TL2 & TL3 short actions, the fifth is on a M70, and the single T4A Elite was on my 1st V-22, before I replaced it with the PRS1T that's on it now. The two adjustable PRS1Ts are on V-22s, and the one that came on the 457 VPT has the solid vs adjustable cheek piece. I prefer the PRS1 stocks because they're nearly a pound lighter than the T4As, and even a bit lighter than the one Elite T4A w/carbon fiber shell. As I mentioned, by using the BScar scope rail & 30mm low rings on the three CZ457s, I don't need an adjustable cheekpiece to get a good cheek weld in prone on the 457 VPT.

The only rifles I own that I'd consider buying a chassis for are four built on Howa Mini actions. One of them is in a McMillan Game Scout stock, and it's tolerable for prone use. Another one is in a Boyds ProVarmint with adjustable cheekpiece, which is fine, except for the weight. Another one is in a B&C #1003 stock, and it's also usable in prone. The one that's really a PITA prone is in a Boyds Prairie Hunter stock, and it flat won't work in prone. As scarce as a light weight prone stock is for the Mini action, a chassis might be a good choice for them.
 

mop89

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Got to put a couple hundred rounds through my 457 mtr over the weekend, had it out from 50 to 200yards, was a pleasure to shoot. I can see me putting many rounds down range with it. This is my first .22lr rifle. Can’t believe how fun they are to shoot, and can’t wait to get it out again. Once I got the windage dialed up it was almost hard to miss at 200 ?

group was from 50 yards with Aguila high velocity, wasn’t even the best group I’ve gotten with it, and also the reticle is a little thick imo for really precise shooting, but regardless I was happy with it. I’m very tempted to pull my minox ZP5 5-25 mr4 off my LR rig, I’d definitely get more use out of it on this .22 I think, I may need someone to persuade me to do so lol, I’d end up putting the Athlon on an ar15 and an Arken 4-16 on my LR setup.. decisions decisions

I want to try some better ammo also, only stuff I had on hand.

Anyone recommend some decent .22 ammo without spending a ton? Mostly plinking from 50 to 300 yards, gonna annihilate some groundhogs for a buddy farmer of mine in the spring as well.
 

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flatland1

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My MTR really likes just about anything that says "SK" on the box. I've done a lot of testing of different lots to find one my rifles like, and was very pleased with a particular lot of SK Std+ I picked out of a batch of five lots. Three of the five lots shot really well; so good in fact that I had to go back through and shoot another set of 10rd groups at 50yds with all five. It was still a bit of a toss-up over which one of the three best to pick, but after I'd made my choice and bought a case of it, I'm very pleased with the lot# I picked. Only regret is only buying one case of it - should've bought at least two... Testing Lapua Center-X & SK Rifle Match, I went through about a dozen different lots of each before finding ones that were worth buying in quantity. I'm set for at least another year after buying two cases of Center-X & Rifle Match, and single cases of SK LR Match & Pistol Match. When I just want to plink with my 457 American or VPT, I've still got several bricks of a poor quality lot of Wolf Match Extra from several years ago - but its accuracy is poor enough that 25-50yds is about as far as I'll shoot it - I don't mind using it for just fun offhand plinking, but that & blasting away with new CZ bbls just to get some rounds through them to get them broken in are about all it's worth using it for.

The thing that makes purchasing quantities of good lots really worthwhile is that when I come across some really good ammo, it almost always shoots equally well out of all the custom bbls I've got on the rifles I've taken the time to work with. Even the better CZ factory bbls have shot their best with the lots I've tested & bought in quantity.
 

AirGunShawn

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Got to put a couple hundred rounds through my 457 mtr over the weekend, had it out from 50 to 200yards, was a pleasure to shoot. I can see me putting many rounds down range with it. This is my first .22lr rifle. Can’t believe how fun they are to shoot, and can’t wait to get it out again. Once I got the windage dialed up it was almost hard to miss at 200 ?

group was from 50 yards with Aguila high velocity, wasn’t even the best group I’ve gotten with it, and also the reticle is a little thick imo for really precise shooting, but regardless I was happy with it. I’m very tempted to pull my minox ZP5 5-25 mr4 off my LR rig, I’d definitely get more use out of it on this .22 I think, I may need someone to persuade me to do so lol, I’d end up putting the Athlon on an ar15 and an Arken 4-16 on my LR setup.. decisions decisions

I want to try some better ammo also, only stuff I had on hand.

Anyone recommend some decent .22 ammo without spending a ton? Mostly plinking from 50 to 300 yards, gonna annihilate some groundhogs for a buddy farmer of mine in the spring as well.
Hello Mop,
So glad to see that you have a 419 bolt knob on your gun. It is so much nicer than the stock knob. I agree with Flatland. My MTR and Royal love SK rifle match. (red box) I get my ammo from target Sports USA. I place my MTR only behind my Vudoo. The MTR is a joy to shoot. It is so nice that I bought a Trijicon 5-50x56 for her. that is the same scope that I run on my V22.
I put a Athlon Cronus on my Annie and an Ares on my Royal. So I would say yes to putting a better scope on your MTR. My target shown was shot at 64 yards with SK red box. btw... DIP has an extended mag release for your gun. It is only 2mm longer but it is aluminum, the stock unit is plastic. I would also suggest a trigger job and spring replacement.
My CZ triggers are set to 10 oz. and very solid. The sketch is pretty good, though not mine. Item number 49 is backwards. Screw in decreases sear engagement. I like your check pad, who makes it? If you look at the fifth
photo just high and right of center, you can just make out my 200 yard steel.
I only wish the MTR had a threaded muzzle.
Shawn

EDIT: Target was shot at 64 yards without tuner. I snatched the trigger on the flier.
 

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mop89

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wow thanks for the info Shawn.

I just switched optics out ? the cheek pad is just a kick eez pad, I think they’re like 12 bucks on amazon.

I think I may invest in some low rings, my scope height is just a tad tall for my liking.

Will definitely look into the mag release and SK ammo -have yet to dive into the trigger but I will try that also

also - I shoot a lot in NJ - being non threaded was part of what that sold me on it
 

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drglock

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Shot my first 22 NRL match this weekend and my Cz 457 definitely didn’t hold me back any. I believe I’m truly addicted to these matches now. Haven’t had this much fun in a long time. Definitely need to practice my positional shooting. I was quite surprised with my third place finish, not bad for an old fat guy.

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AirGunShawn

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wow thanks for the info Shawn.

I just switched optics out ? the cheek pad is just a kick eez pad, I think they’re like 12 bucks on amazon.

I think I may invest in some low rings, my scope height is just a tad tall for my liking.

Will definitely look into the mag release and SK ammo -have yet to dive into the trigger but I will try that also

also - I shoot a lot in NJ - being non threaded was part of what that sold me on it
If you do the trigger, I would be happy to send you out lapping film, moly grease, silicon grease, .014 diameter and .018 diameter wire springs. It would probably take about two hours to do it but it is an easy task. The sear is easy to polish because it is such a large flat surface. It virtually keeps itself square and level.

Why did you want non threaded? I recently got my can and it makes shooting more pleasant. No more bulky
ear muffs.

I also have two Annie's and sadly I like my MTR better than them. They have their triggers set to the factory setting of 180 grams. ( 6.4 oz. )

Chat soon
Shawn
 

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mop89

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That’d be really nice of you to hook me up with what I need for the trigger job, I’d love to give it a shot.

Usually I prefer my firearms threaded for suppressor purposes, but I have a few of them that are NJ compliant; can’t have a threaded barrel, and if you do it has to be with a non mountable muzzle brake, no FH, and has to be pinned and welded, few others but as far as the barrel threading is concerned that’s the crux of it.
 

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That’d be really nice of you to hook me up with what I need for the trigger job, I’d love to give it a shot.

Usually I prefer my firearms threaded for suppressor purposes, but I have a few of them that are NJ compliant; can’t have a threaded barrel, and if you do it has to be with a non mountable muzzle brake, no FH, and has to be pinned and welded, few others but as far as the barrel threading is concerned that’s the crux of it.
Hi Mop,
I will get it in the mail as soon as the post office opens. Thursday I hope. You can PM me your address. I'm in Tn. for now and we don't have very though gun laws.... at least that I know of. I was really happy that my suppressor only took 4.5 months to get into my hands. If I get another one in the next few months, I can do it all over the phone. They say my photo is good for one year and prints forever.

Shawn
 

Bradu

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Top is 250 yards and bottom is 300. The 3 on the right edge were from a 5 shot string. The shot by itself is from and earlier attempt to get on steel. I can't fit my chronograph on the barrel and I didn't see sk standard match in the ballistic app so I just guessed off of another bullet and a random velocity. Looking forward to getting more time to shoot this rifle but I really enjoyed it. I may have to get a vudoo instead of buying a new barrel for this rifle.

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AirGunShawn

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You are correct on the bolt needing to be in the open. Mine was really easy to push out. Hopefully it is something as simple as a burr . Keep us informed.
Hello Doctor,
I have been meaning to get back with you. The factory calls the bolt cross pin a "Locking Pin" As you know, the bolt needs to be in the closed position to align the hole in the firing pin hole to the locking pin itself. After much scrutiny I discovered part of my problem. When the bolt is in the open position, the pin is in the slot of the firing pin and thus retained or locked into position.
When the bolt is in the closed position, the firing pin spring is pushing on the firing pin forward and driving it into the very shallow groove in the locking pin. My locking pin has shallow but very sharp edges into the reduced section of the locking pin. The firing pin is ground on both sides so that the keyhole in it has very sharp and defined edges as well. That creates an effect similar to a trigger sear in that two sharp edges are just partially engaged.
What helps with my two CZs is to put the bolt in the closed position but then push the firing pin reward just a few thousandth's to align the true centerline of the hole with the true centerline of the pin. It appears to me that the firing pin spring is designed to lock the pin in place when the bolt is closed. If you go to CZ and download the 457 manual and zoom up on the bolt details all of the way, it will probably clear up anything that I may have missed. As soon as CZ offers spare locking pins, I'm going to get some and bevel the ends and the inside edges of the internal groove so as to facilitate the disassembly of my bolts.
Even though I know how to do it, mine are still a pain to remove and install. BTW to all .... if you ever lose the locking pin, you cant replace it with a straight pin with no groove. The design will not function without the grooved pin.

Shawn
 

Bradu

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Still have to clean up everything but for some reason the back of the action didn't go down against the pillar and the recoil lug. It is raised about 1/16", I'm not sure whether to take the bedding out and redo it or shoot it and see how it does first.20191228_104838.jpg
 

AirGunShawn

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Still have to clean up everything but for some reason the back of the action didn't go down against the pillar and the recoil lug. It is raised about 1/16", I'm not sure whether to take the bedding out and redo it or shoot it and see how it does first.View attachment 7211051
How do you know that you are .06 high? Above in entry #853, Dr. Glock has a great looking stock that he had bedded. If you look at the rear pillar you can see how thin his bedding material is because you can just make out the aluminum pillar color through the really thin bedding material. Also, he has a square around the pillar similar to yours. I'm just curious, it may be obvious when you have the stock in hand. Also, is using surgical tubing standard practice? I would have guessed that you would have used the action screws for the compression and also to keep the action aligned squarely in the stock. Again, just curious. I have never even read about bedding yet.

Shawn
 
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Bradu

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How do you know that you are .06 high? Above in entry #853, Dr. Glock has a great looking stock that he had bedded. If you look at the rear screw post you can see how thin his bedding material is because you can just make out the aluminum screw spacer. Also, he has a square around the action screw similar to yours. I'm just curious, it may be obvious when you have the stock in hand. Also, is using surgical tubing standard practice? I would have guessed that you would have used the action screws at nearly full torque for the compression and also to keep the action aligned squarely in the stock. Again, just curious. I have never even read about bedding yet.

Shawn
His is done perfectly. It's obvious in hand and I scraped a little away from the pillar to confirm. From the research I did, most recommend studs and using tubing or I have seen zip ties used. The theory is tightening the screws can induce stress. Not sure where I went wrong but it is bothering me. I thought it went well until I popped it loose. I know the recoil isn't an issue with a 22 so it will probably be ok. I'm going to try to shoot tomorrow to see how it shoots and go from there unless someone suggests otherwise.
 

AirGunShawn

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His is done perfectly. It's obvious in hand and I scraped a little away from the pillar to confirm. From the research I did, most recommend studs and using tubing or I have seen zip ties used. The theory is tightening the screws can induce stress. Not sure where I went wrong but it is bothering me. I thought it went well until I popped it loose. I know the recoil isn't an issue with a 22 so it will probably be ok. I'm going to try to shoot tomorrow to see how it shoots and go from there unless someone suggests otherwise.
So it sounds like they are using headless studs to keep the stock and action square to each other. I have seen many wood working applications using latex tubing for clamping things together while gluing them up, like chairs. So that makes total sense. I have never felt the need to do a bedding job but I do have a Ruger RPRR that may benefit from it. Some people are using HVAC foil tape for that gun and that doesn't feel right to me.

Best of luck
 
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AirGunShawn

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Bedding a rifle to stock should be a science not an art. Since there are a lot of different opinions an how to do it, I will give you mine. I use custom made studs to locate the receiver to the stock. The studs need to fit the attaching holes snugly, . I then locate the receiver where I want it to be after the bedding is done by using painters (blue) tape, applying three wrapped areas on the barrel. I want it not touching anything, you can check the fit before applying the bedding compound by using modeling clay near the screw holes to see the clearance. I do not use any pressure on the receiver while the compound is setting up. I do hold the barrel in place with rubber bands available from Brownells.
 
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Bradu

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So it sounds like they are using headless studs to keep the stock and action square to each other. I have seen many wood working applications using latex tubing for clamping things together while gluing them up, like chairs. So that makes total sense. I have never felt the need to do a bedding job but I do have a Ruger RPRR that may benefit from it. Some people are using HVAC foil tape for that gun and that doesn't feel right to me.

Best of luck
I ordered machine screws and cut the heads off, then I used heat shrink to have a snug fit into the pillars after screwing them into the action. This second attempt looks much better, only issue I had was the rear pillar didn't appear to have been glued in place so it came up with the action when I separated the stock. Looks like a minor fix but I will post some pictures after I get everything cleaned up. Pretty happy with the way it turned out other than that.
 

Bradu

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Not the best pictures but it turned out better. The back pillar pulled out some so it chipped out around there. I will get better pictures when it's daylight out. The basement is too dark and the flash didn't make it any better.

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