Do you clean your suppressor?

nikonNUT

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So many options and opinions ... many that directly conflict. Hoping to get an authoritative answer from someone that owns my specific suppressor ... vs. speculation or opinion about what "might" or "should" happen. (So please humor me.)

I have a SilencerCo Chimera-300. It's several ounces heavier that when I bought it, and I've used it a lot. My plan is to:
  • Remove mount and end-cap
  • Soak the can in CLR solution for 24 hours
  • Rinse with faucet water
  • Place in my ultrasonic cleaner (plastic basket) filled with Simple Green solution for 10 minutes
  • Flush with hose water under pressure
  • Blow dry with compressed air and let stand to dry for 24 hours
Is there anything about this plan that's "wrong", or dangerous? I'm specifically concerned about the exterior finish, as I don't want a can that looks like it's endured the "heartbreak of psoriasis".

Will I be OK with "this" plan on "this" suppressor?

Rusty
That's what I did and it worked great. I didn't go 24 hours with the CLR but mine wasn't that heavy. Only place I deviated was using "Extreme" Simple Green (Doesn't smell like sasafass. Personal preference.) and I didn't use compressed air. I just shook the shit out of it and let it dry standing up (blast baffle side down cause gravity and the shape of the baffles) on a microfiber towel for a day. Body weighs 14.2 ounces now and I have no idea what it weighed new but there is nary a speck of carbon in it! :LOL:

P.S. An ultrasonic will take off cerakote.
 
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Longshot231

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I took my Quiet Bore 5.56MM apart after a couple hundred rounds through it.

I spayed the Hoppes Elite solvent over everything and inside the tube. I worked on something else for several hours than wiped the excess crud off with paper towels.

That took a lot off but there was still a thin layer of encrusted carbon on the metal surfaces.

So I sprayed the parts and a Scotch Brite pad and rubbed it all off except for some faint traces of fouling here and there. It wasn't shiny clean like it was brand new but sufficient enough to apply a thin coat of CLP and reassemble.

Total time to clean this by hand was probably an hour. Remember that I let the parts soak in the Hoppes Elite for several hours which I think does the bulk of the work.

The Scotch Brite pad is great at getting a lot of the encrusted carbon fouling off.
 
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black5.3

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Does anybody here have a sico saker? Im guessing the build characteristics between The 556 and 762 are the same except for diameter of bullet it is rated for... how are you guys cleaning these? Not much info out there about cleaning them like aluminum or titanium suppressors. Its easy cleaning my tbac but i cant find solid info on it. It would be nice to just fill it up with clr like my tbac but not sure if it will handle it with the kinds of stainless and other metals it is made out of. BTW, i have the 556k. Thanks guys.
 

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Drives me nuts that no one has tried hooking a pump to each end of their suppressor to circulate solvent. Still a few weeks away from my first surpressor, but this pc cooling pump is what id try.
 

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Lunchbox27

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You saw from my posts in this thread, the ultra sonic cleaner and mineral spirits combined with C4, got my Omega as good as new.
My US arrives today. Doing this exact combo since your results were good. I've been trying to get the outer tube off my Omega, but this thing is not coming off. Perhaps the US will break it down finally, but at this point I could care less about the cerakote coming off.
 
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Longshot231

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My US arrives today. Doing this exact combo since your results were good. I've been trying to get the outer tube off my Omega, but this thing is not coming off. Perhaps the US will break it down finally, but at this point I could care less about the cerakote coming off.
I haven’t tried this myself but a friend of mine used distilled water instead of tap water. He said the difference was amazing.

The directions of most US cleaners say to use distilled water. I ignored that and used tap water.

My friend had a good reason for why distilled water worked better. Tap water contains all sorts of additives but distilled doesn’t.

So with tap water the solution gets saturated faster with the cleaning agent and the contaminants that the cleaner is supposed to remove from the metal surfaces.

There is more room in distilled water for both the cleaning agent and contaminants to go. This makes the cavitation action more effective.

It’s similar to what happens when you put too much salt in a glass of water. The excess settles in the bottom of the glass.

That’s the best way I can explain it. The next time I use the US cleaner I will have to try distilled water.
 
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samb300

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I'm not sure what part(s) of the SiCo suppressors are Stainless Steel, but their rifle suppressors are all listed as having SS.

Based on this thread with information from Zak, CLR is not recommended for more than 15 minutes in contact with SS. I know when I get around to cleaning my Omega I'll be trying something other than CLR out of caution. https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/omega-cleaning.6957534/
 
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black5.3

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I'm not sure what part(s) of the SiCo suppressors are Stainless Steel, but their rifle suppressors are all listed as having SS.

Based on this thread with information from Zak, CLR is not recommended for more than 15 minutes in contact with SS. I know when I get around to cleaning my Omega I'll be trying something other than CLR out of caution. https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/omega-cleaning.6957534/
Thats why i am hesitant to just fill it with clr and walk away like i do my tbac cans. I guess i could just fill it up with boretech and let it work but thats kinda expensive compared to other chemicals/cleaners that can be picked up at auto parts stores or lowes.
 

samb300

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Thats why i am hesitant to just fill it with clr and walk away like i do my tbac cans. I guess i could just fill it up with boretech and let it work but thats kinda expensive compared to other chemicals/cleaners that can be picked up at auto parts stores or lowes.
I agree. CLR has been great on my Ultra7, but I have yet to clean my Takedown-22 (SS baffles) or my Omega. A 16oz bottle of Boretech C4 is about the price of a box of ammo ($27), so if one bottle can clean an Omega it's not too bad of a cost if it's a once a year type thing. I'd have to fill up the can with water to see how many ounces I'd need.

The other option is M-Pro 7, which I've seen OSS suppressors recommend for their "soak then shoot" cleaning plan, which is actually really cool when they shoot the carbon and liquid out in slow motion haha. A 1-gallon jug of M-Pro 7 is $60, so that could be more economical if it works as well as Boretech C4.
 
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tomcatfan

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I'm not sure what part(s) of the SiCo suppressors are Stainless Steel, but their rifle suppressors are all listed as having SS.

Based on this thread with information from Zak, CLR is not recommended for more than 15 minutes in contact with SS. I know when I get around to cleaning my Omega I'll be trying something other than CLR out of caution. https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/omega-cleaning.6957534/
This is why I didn't use CLR. If you go back in the thread (post 156) , I just put my omega in a mason jar with mineral spririts (recommended by SiCo) and put the mason jar in the ultrasonic cleaner. After doing that for about a day, the mineral spirits was black. Then I put a cork in the end cap and filled it with the Boretech C4. After a day of that and some elbow grease and a pick, my suppressor looked as good as new.
 
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black5.3

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I agree. CLR has been great on my Ultra7, but I have yet to clean my Takedown-22 (SS baffles) or my Omega. A 16oz bottle of Boretech C4 is about the price of a box of ammo ($27), so if one bottle can clean an Omega it's not too bad of a cost if it's a once a year type thing. I'd have to fill up the can with water to see how many ounces I'd need.

The other option is M-Pro 7, which I've seen OSS suppressors recommend for their "soak then shoot" cleaning plan, which is actually really cool when they shoot the carbon and liquid out in slow motion haha. A 1-gallon jug of M-Pro 7 is $60, so that could be more economical if it works as well as Boretech C4.
I may end up just running boretech in it unless someone else puts out some sound advice on other cleaners that would be better.
 

black5.3

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This is why I didn't use CLR. If you go back in the thread (post 156) , I just put my omega in a mason jar with mineral spririts (recommended by SiCo) and put the mason jar in the ultrasonic cleaner. After doing that for about a day, the mineral spirits was black. Then I put a cork in the end cap and filled it with the Boretech C4. After a day of that and some elbow grease and a pick, my suppressor looked as good as new.
I thought about mineral spirits as well as it can be bought in big jugs for a decent price and I had read before about people using it in Sico cans. But then again, it has a strong smell and if I’m talking about soaking it in a suppressor for days or a week then I can‘t do it in the house or my hot garage and let the fumes build up.
 

tomcatfan

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I thought about mineral spirits as well as it can be bought in big jugs for a decent price and I had read before about people using it in Sico cans. But then again, it has a strong smell and if I’m talking about soaking it in a suppressor for days or a week then I can‘t do it in the house or my hot garage and let the fumes build up.
By putting it in a mason jar, the fumes are kept to a minimum. The only exposure I had was when I was handling the suppressor, when I did that I just stepped outside. As far as the C4, I actually enjoyed the smell of that. It smells like citrus.
 
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black5.3

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By putting it in a mason jar, the fumes are kept to a minimum. The only exposure I had was when I was handling the suppressor, when I did that I just stepped outside. As far as the C4, I actually enjoyed the smell of that. It smells like citrus.
True, a sealing container would be the ticket on fumes.. and ditto on the smell of Boretech.. that and Hopes are fairly close.
 

ormandj

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Filled with 80% BoreTech C4, the rest water (in the jar).

View attachment 7386388
Hard to tell from that picture, but if the jar is sitting on top of the transducers, you're not going to get much ultrasonic cleaning action. Additionally, the jar itself may dampen some of the action, even if not on a transducer. Pull that out of your ultrasonic cleaner, put a piece of foil in just the water in the cleaner, and run it. It should eat through the foil (no need to let it finish, just look for little holes to form with it dipped in there). Repeat the experiment with a jar and water and foil. That's a good way to make sure you're not just spinning wheels. Normally there are little baskets with standoffs to prevent items from directly sitting on transducers, or overhead fixtures on larger units that allow suspending the item in the tank with wire.

Also, definitely used distilled, ultrasonic cleaners work through cavitation and the minerals in tap water make it less effective, in addition to all of the molecular/atomic interactions that mineral/contaminate binding prevents. Pre-warm the distilled water, and run a 10 minute cycle before cleaning something, that'll prepare you for the most efficient cleaning you can accomplish with a small/low power ultrasonic cleaner like that one appears to be. Every little bit helps!
 

lash

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Hard to tell from that picture, but if the jar is sitting on top of the transducers, you're not going to get much ultrasonic cleaning action. Additionally, the jar itself may dampen some of the action, even if not on a transducer. Pull that out of your ultrasonic cleaner, put a piece of foil in just the water in the cleaner, and run it. It should eat through the foil (no need to let it finish, just look for little holes to form with it dipped in there). Repeat the experiment with a jar and water and foil. That's a good way to make sure you're not just spinning wheels. Normally there are little baskets with standoffs to prevent items from directly sitting on transducers, or overhead fixtures on larger units that allow suspending the item in the tank with wire.

Also, definitely used distilled, ultrasonic cleaners work through cavitation and the minerals in tap water make it less effective, in addition to all of the molecular/atomic interactions that mineral/contaminate binding prevents. Pre-warm the distilled water, and run a 10 minute cycle before cleaning something, that'll prepare you for the most efficient cleaning you can accomplish with a small/low power ultrasonic cleaner like that one appears to be. Every little bit helps!
Good info here guys! For those considering using the ultrasonic cleaners, which do work well, it helps to know how to use them in the best way possible.
 

Lunchbox27

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Hard to tell from that picture, but if the jar is sitting on top of the transducers, you're not going to get much ultrasonic cleaning action. Additionally, the jar itself may dampen some of the action, even if not on a transducer. Pull that out of your ultrasonic cleaner, put a piece of foil in just the water in the cleaner, and run it. It should eat through the foil (no need to let it finish, just look for little holes to form with it dipped in there). Repeat the experiment with a jar and water and foil. That's a good way to make sure you're not just spinning wheels. Normally there are little baskets with standoffs to prevent items from directly sitting on transducers, or overhead fixtures on larger units that allow suspending the item in the tank with wire.

Also, definitely used distilled, ultrasonic cleaners work through cavitation and the minerals in tap water make it less effective, in addition to all of the molecular/atomic interactions that mineral/contaminate binding prevents. Pre-warm the distilled water, and run a 10 minute cycle before cleaning something, that'll prepare you for the most efficient cleaning you can accomplish with a small/low power ultrasonic cleaner like that one appears to be. Every little bit helps!
Solid! Thanks! I’ll put the tray in for the next cycle. Just two cycles and the water is already pitch black. Cannot even see the can any longer.
 
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Lunchbox27

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Had to pull it out of the jar and rinse/dry it to shoot it tomorrow. I was happy to see I shaved an entire oz off the weight. This is the most I have gotten out using Boretech in just 48 hours, so the ultra sonic definitely did most of the work. The blast chamber is getting better, but still has some large chunks left. I’ll throw it back in for a week after tomorrow.

The Jar
8FBDCF91-0851-4462-820C-D238D1E0E7CA.jpeg
 

NWnewguy

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Had to pull it out of the jar and rinse/dry it to shoot it tomorrow. I was happy to see I shaved an entire oz off the weight. This is the most I have gotten out using Boretech in just 48 hours, so the ultra sonic definitely did most of the work. The blast chamber is getting better, but still has some large chunks left. I’ll throw it back in for a week after tomorrow.

The Jar
From my experience with Boretech C4, the carbon will settle out in the jar after a day or two and is completely reusable. The way you're using it, not sure how helpful that is in trying to get the carbon out of the jar, but maybe it could be filtered through some coffee filters or something. Or maybe it doesn't matter if there's suspended carbon in it and just keep using it. Not sure on that, would love to hear some opinions.
 

alamo5000

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From my experience with Boretech C4, the carbon will settle out in the jar after a day or two and is completely reusable. The way you're using it, not sure how helpful that is in trying to get the carbon out of the jar, but maybe it could be filtered through some coffee filters or something. Or maybe it doesn't matter if there's suspended carbon in it and just keep using it. Not sure on that, would love to hear some opinions.
Not worth the effort. Just buy another bottle.

On a side note I tried both C4 and Simple Green Heavy Duty. The C4 worked like a charm but the Simple Green is awesome too and is way cheaper. I've been impressed with it.
 
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lash

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On a side note I tried both C4 and Simple Green Heavy Duty. The C4 worked like a charm but the Simple Green is awesome too and is way cheaper. I've been impressed with it.
That’s what I keep saying here. I’m not saying it to sell Simple Green, I’m saying it because it works. Plus, as mentioned, ditch the jar and just use the solution directly in the US with the can submerged on the plastic tray that cones with it. A half dozen cycles or more over a period of a couple/few days will take out a bunch of carbon. Most all of it in my experience.
 
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SilentVapor631

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Simple Green with LOVE Green & Ultrasonic Cleaner or distilled water then place in a ultrasonic cleaner with all the brushes for cleaning too. makes sense maybe... SIMPLE GREEN WINS
 
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lash

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tomcatfan

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That’s what I keep saying here. I’m not saying it to sell Simple Green, I’m saying it because it works. Plus, as mentioned, ditch the jar and just use the solution directly in the US with the can submerged on the plastic tray that cones with it. A half dozen cycles or more over a period of a couple/few days will take out a bunch of carbon. Most all of it in my experience.
You can’t put all chemicals in your US cleaner. I used a mason jar because I heard mineral spirits was a no go. And I used mineral spirits because that is what was recommended by SiCo.
 

lash

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I can completely understand not putting mineral spirits directly in there. It’s a flammable solvent and ultrasonic cleaners are electric plus they heat things up. Further, it is not recommended to use Simple Green on aluminum parts, so that is a consideration too.
 

tomcatfan

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I can completely understand not putting mineral spirits directly in there. It’s a flammable solvent and ultrasonic cleaners are electric plus they heat things up. Further, it is not recommended to use Simple Green on aluminum parts, so that is a consideration too.
Aware of flash points being a thing, I also wouldn‘t run the mason jar too long. I would let it cool down before running the cleaner. You are absolutely right, it does heat up.
 

alamo5000

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After seeing my own results I don't think using an ultrasonic cleaner will help most people. If you have a really dirty can of course definitely use it. I am pretty much speculating that the ultrasonic cleaner pretty much speeds up the process a lot.

For me going forward once a year or whatever I will buy a gallon of heavy duty simple green for $13 bucks and put my suppressors in a little plastic container and just fill it up. If its bad after a day or two dump it out and refill it with clean simple green.

Based on a lot of posts here an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Don't let it get out of control and life will be much easier.
 

lash

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After seeing my own results I don't think using an ultrasonic cleaner will help most people. If you have a really dirty can of course definitely use it. I am pretty much speculating that the ultrasonic cleaner pretty much speeds up the process a lot.
What makes you say this? Have you used an ultrasonic cleaner? I have done it both with and without the US cleaner and you can trust me when I say the US cleaner makes it work quicker.

Industrial cleaning processes use ultrasonic cleaning for a reason and that it because it works. Can you get things clean without it? Sure, but why not do it better?
 

alamo5000

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What makes you say this? Have you used an ultrasonic cleaner? I have done it both with and without the US cleaner and you can trust me when I say the US cleaner makes it work quicker.

Industrial cleaning processes use ultrasonic cleaning for a reason and that it because it works. Can you get things clean without it? Sure, but why not do it better?
I've never used an ultrasonic cleaner because don't have one yet. :) It's not much more complicated than that. If I owned one I might try it but this is not really something that I feel is a reason to run out and buy more stuff. Of course if I used it in many different applications of course but it's not a mandatory thing for most people's needs (I would assume).

That said I am always looking for good information. I'm glad other people are trying this stuff so I don't have to experiment on my own.
 
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Lunchbox27

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I can say, I wasn’t a believer either in the US, but it proved me wrong. About 48 hours with C4 and about 20 runs of the US removed 1 oz of weight. Before that, I was lucky to get a 1/4 oz soaking for almost 3 days.

That said, I did some mag dumps today on my SBR with the can. Finally got the sleeve to break loose. Its now soaking in Simple Green/US. Gonna leave it for a week.
 
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alamo5000

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I didn't say I didn't believe in ultrasonic cleaners. I said for most people it's probably not needed. If their supressor is really dirty then yes. It will cut the time down a lot I think.

In my case I got out over 1/2 oz in a couple of days with zero work put in. Between the C4 and simple green it gave me great results. C4 definitely worked but so did simple green. With C4 I bought 16oz for roughly $25 bucks and I had to figure out how to plug my suppressors up to hold the solution in. No big deal. With the heavy duty simple green I bought a gallon for $13 bucks (volume wise 8x more solution for more than $10 cheaper) so I could just drop the suppressors in and go.

Basically in the grand scheme of things a better bang for the buck and I had enough to submerge my cans in and had 1/2 a gallon left over and I didn't have to figure out how to plug the bore of the can.
 
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tomcatfan

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The $1000 question though, is simple green safe for a Ti, stainless, and stellite suppressor?

People use CLR, even though MANY, including a suppressor manufacturer, have stated that CLR isn't so great for stainless.
 

Lunchbox27

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The $1000 question though, is simple green safe for a Ti, stainless, and stellite suppressor?

People use CLR, even though MANY, including a suppressor manufacturer, have stated that CLR isn't so great for stainless.
Good question. Im gonna find out.
 

alamo5000

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The $1000 question though, is simple green safe for a Ti, stainless, and stellite suppressor?

People use CLR, even though MANY, including a suppressor manufacturer, have stated that CLR isn't so great for stainless.
I have a Recce 7 and while it has no titanium I would venture to say simple green would be safe on all of those. I'm not a chemist but based on my recent experience you will be fine.
 

tomcatfan

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I have a Recce 7 and while it has no titanium I would venture to say simple green would be safe on all of those. I'm not a chemist but based on my recent experience you will be fine.
No offense, I’m not going to ruin my suppressor and leave the potential for a pipe bomb blowing up on the end of my rifle because a couple of guys didn’t have any issues. The problem with this kind of stuff is, it’s absolutely fine, until it isn’t.
 

black5.3

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Ooohhh I won’t. When TBAC says not to, I listen. They have forgotten more info on suppressors than I have learned over the years.
TBAC says no to CLR and stainless right? But they do advise to use CLR on Ti. Thats how they clean them up i thought.
 

alamo5000

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No offense, I’m not going to ruin my suppressor and leave the potential for a pipe bomb blowing up on the end of my rifle because a couple of guys didn’t have any issues. The problem with this kind of stuff is, it’s absolutely fine, until it isn’t.
Absolutely. I agree 100%.

Find a piece of metal and soak it for a while before you dunk the can. CLR and Simple Green are two totally different things. I was scared that the simple green would harm the finish on my can but in the end all is well.

I will draw a kind of basic comparison between simple green and Seal 1 or Frog Lube. Simple Green is like a water format of those from what I can tell.

Of course do your own homework. It is not my can after all. I don't fault anyone for being cautious. I certainly was very cautious as well.
 

Longshot231

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A warning about ultrasonic cleaners. Even though the manufacturer may state that the materials used in the suppressor are stainless steel or titanium; they may sneak a part or two in there that is made of aluminum.

I found that out with a couple of end caps in a couple of Sig pistol suppressors. The owner's manual and online literature stated that everything in the can was stainless steel and titanium.

I sent the cans off to Sig and they quickly replaced the end caps.
 

tomcatfan

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TBAC says no to CLR and stainless right? But they do advise to use CLR on Ti. Thats how they clean them up i thought.
Correct, a while ago, I posted something about how to clean my Omega and it was stated there. Others have said the same that CLR and stainless don’t mix. From what I could find in my research, CLR contains HCl which can cause problems with some metals, stainless included.
 
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Lunchbox27

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I believe that simple green is not good for aluminum unless it is the purple version.
https://simplegreen.com/industrial/products/extreme-aircraft-precision-cleaner/


I believe these two are aluminum safe. I have the latter and am going to try it on my Harvester.
I actually ordered the Aircraft one for my Harvester, though it’s not time for a cleaning, yet. I will however be using it soon on my 9mm can that is all aluminum.

Keep us posted.