Suppressors Easy cleaning!!!!!
- Thread starter xdeano
- Start date
Where did you get this information? CLR is used all of the time on stainless sinks, pots and pans, and other stainless products.
It specifically does NOT say to avoid using it on stainless (on the bottle).
Cleaning with it, and soaking something in it or storing it in a us cleaner are very different. After killing an us cleaner at work, we don't allow it any more. Leave raw 17-4 baffles in it and they'll start to rust. 303 stainless will corrode in clr. Manufacturers recommend things for a reason.
Okay. I don’t disbelieve you in any way, but there is no manufacturer’s recommendation against using it on stainless on the bottle. That is why I asked.
Manufacturer, ie TBAC right above your post.
And stainless steel is a very broad term. Very few are actually rated for strong acids.
Yes, I saw that. You were very general yourself, as you posted that CLR should not be used on stainless steel with no qualifiers and no reference. Then when you mention manufacturer, you didn’t say the manufacturer of TBAC cans, so one was left to assume that you meant the manufacturer of CLR.
There was no way for us to know what you were thinking. But now, six posts later, since I asked, it is now clear what you meant. Thank you.
Carbon killer is good to clean carbon.
Used this now for a while, and it does really kill the carbon.
Only down side if you use steel supressor, that it can start corrosion inside, so you need to dry it well and use some gun oil inside the can, but not use it much, since it can suck the dirt to it even more.
https://www.slip2000.com/slip2000_carbon_killer.php
Used this now for a while, and it does really kill the carbon.
Only down side if you use steel supressor, that it can start corrosion inside, so you need to dry it well and use some gun oil inside the can, but not use it much, since it can suck the dirt to it even more.
https://www.slip2000.com/slip2000_carbon_killer.php
You just bumped a nearly 3 year old thread.
'bout to clean my Ti can with CLR in an ultrasonic. Any recommendation on the ratio of CLR:water? Also, the steel brake is carbon-welded into the can and won't budge. I'm hoping this method frees it up. How much "damage" will the CLR do to the brake?
Use straight clr. I put clr on a stainless barrel cookie (cut off during chambering) and it didn't etch shit. I also put it on a carbon steel barrel and it ate right through the bluing but didn't hurt the steel.
CLR in an ultrasonic is the one CLR method I would STRONGLY recommend against for any steel; reading through a few of these threads lately, that seems to be the common thread underlying all the advice to not mix CLR and steel (stainless specifically, but seems like good advice for non-stainless too).
My experience and advice is the same as @Reload10: Use straight CLR. Takes the bluing right off of chromoly, but the stainless baffles from my 22 can were pristine after a couple hours of gentle fizzing. I dunked them in a glass bowl, but if your can is one that doesnt allow for baffle removal, I think the standard recommendation is to plug the bottom with a foam ear plug and fill the can with CLR. TBAC's recommendation says to avoid getting the stainless threads in contact with the CLR, but a) good luck with that, you're gonna foam up in there for sure and b) reading their posts about it, that advice comes from them destroying an ultrasonic that had a stainless tub.
Since stainless is only corrosion resistant because it forms a durable oxide layer that prevents further corrosion (just like aluminum), my theory is that the ultrasonic + CLR continually knocks that layer off, which allows for progressive corrosion that would normally have stopped right at the surface.
My experience and advice is the same as @Reload10: Use straight CLR. Takes the bluing right off of chromoly, but the stainless baffles from my 22 can were pristine after a couple hours of gentle fizzing. I dunked them in a glass bowl, but if your can is one that doesnt allow for baffle removal, I think the standard recommendation is to plug the bottom with a foam ear plug and fill the can with CLR. TBAC's recommendation says to avoid getting the stainless threads in contact with the CLR, but a) good luck with that, you're gonna foam up in there for sure and b) reading their posts about it, that advice comes from them destroying an ultrasonic that had a stainless tub.
Since stainless is only corrosion resistant because it forms a durable oxide layer that prevents further corrosion (just like aluminum), my theory is that the ultrasonic + CLR continually knocks that layer off, which allows for progressive corrosion that would normally have stopped right at the surface.
Yup, it eats bluing because bluing is basically rust. The R in CLR stands for Rust.
FWIW Purple Power also removes rust in a similar manner, but that’s off topic.
CLR is good stuff. I do sometimes use it in an US cleaner, but if you do, put it in its own sacrificial container with just water in the US tank. It’ll eat through decorative chrome as well BTW, which I found out when using a chromed container for it in my US cleaner.
That's a great idea, I bet a pint glass would work (seriously).
