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For the Love of God, GI Joe and John Wayne.... cleaning and abrasive cleaners

Oh really? Tell that to VV.


The N500 series of Vihtavuori propellants provide the utmost in performance. Vihtavuori N500 high energy powders are the perfect reloading option for a rifle shooter who is looking for added velocity and range with heavy bullets. Nitroglycerine has been added to the traditional single base rifle powder to get better energy content. The N500 Vihtavuori series offers seven different smokeless reloading powders with different burning rates, suitable for a variety of shooting disciplines such as long range target shooting and ELR.

Talk to anyone who shoots N565-N570 and ask them about barrel life compared to something like retumbo or RL33.
N568 and N555 are quite a bit different than the other N5XX powders. I've shot them, they're not the same hot temp high energy big velocity powders of that family. The internet is the internet, shoot em and test em, that's where the rubber meets the road. Just look at joule/energy per kg ratings.......both N568 and N555 more in line with H1000, not N570. N570 has a flame temp closer to H4350/varg than it does N555.
 
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D

Don’t know. I’ve never used alcohol etc…

I stay oil based. Never had a problem.
I keep some 99.9% alcohol, not the 91.9%. After I finish cleaning I put a 2-4 drops on a 12 gauge patch wrapped around a chamber mop. This is strictly to make sure no solvent is left in the chamber. Even though it will dry clean I go back into my chamber one more time with a dry patch around my mop. Never - use the 91.9%.
 
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I keep some 99.9% alcohol, not the 91.9%. After I finish cleaning I put a 2-4 drops on a 12 gauge patch wrapped around a chamber mop. This is strictly to make sure no solvent is left in the chamber. Even though it will dry clean I go back into my chamber one more time with a dry patch around my mop. Never - use the 91.9%.
Son of a gun, didn’t know 99.9% was available. Was going to mock you but instead covered my butt and did a search. Can get that shiiit at Amazon. Huh.

Thanks for the tip!
 
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Son of a gun, didn’t know 99.9% was available. Was going to mock you but instead covered my butt and did a search. Can get that shiiit at Amazon. Huh.

Thanks for the tip!
Just buy the red bottle of heet. It's 99% isopropyl alcohol. I also use it in my case lube: mix red heet with liquid lanolin oil at 12:1 ratio in a spray bottle. Works awesome and very quick/easy to apply.
 
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I have about 1,200 rounds thru my 6GT (Proof) barrel and never scoped it until recently. I clean approx every 300-400 rnds, stopping when the patches came out more or less clean. The gun shoots .5MOA or better, so figured all was good on the basis that it’s still grouping well. But without a scope, it’s hard to tell how clean it really is.

Recently I’ve been experiencing some pressure signs: a few blown primers and a few cases with an extractor mark on the case. No change to my load which is around 2,840 fps. Some of the brass in question came from a questionable batch of 1x fired brass that got on trade, but it also happened with a few cases of 3x fired (all by me) Hornady brass.

I’m trying three things: The first was to get a borescope and I’m pretty sure I had a carbon ring forming so I went after that with some C4 soaked on a bore mop and some nylon brush scrubbing. Based on what my borescope is now showing I think I got most of the carbon ring out of there. But the first 12” of the barrel still has what I think is baked on carbon. Being at approx mid-life on the barrel I figured it was time for a good cleaning, alternating patches and a bronze brush with just Hoppe’s. It’s looking better now, but by no means am I down to the bare metal. The other 2/3 of the barrel looks pretty good according to the borescope.

The other thing I’m trying is trimming my brass. Some of my cases were starting to get into the 1.730-1.732” range, so took it back 8-10 thou. I haven’t fired those yet, but felt like it was time to trim.

I also reduced my seating depth by .020” for an .040” jump (I was seating to .060” jump before). Back when I did my seating depth testing, the .060” jump yielded the best groups in the .3XX” and .040 was in the .5XX” so I went with the smaller group. But now my thinking is I would rather have a slightly larger group than over pressure… plus I’m sure my throat has eroded some in the last 1K rnds.
To verify trim length is ok load a trimmed & sized case into the chamber, just case…..not loaded. Now run your “borescope” without mirror attachment in from the muzzle. Go slow as you approach the throat area until you get a great pic of case mouth. This will allow you to see if you are touching or if you might be trimming too much. Best wishes…..

A brake acts like a bore guide protecting your crown when coming in from muzzle.
 
Oh really? Tell that to VV.


The N500 series of Vihtavuori propellants provide the utmost in performance. Vihtavuori N500 high energy powders are the perfect reloading option for a rifle shooter who is looking for added velocity and range with heavy bullets. Nitroglycerine has been added to the traditional single base rifle powder to get better energy content. The N500 Vihtavuori series offers seven different smokeless reloading powders with different burning rates, suitable for a variety of shooting disciplines such as long range target shooting and ELR.

Talk to anyone who shoots N565-N570 and ask them about barrel life compared to something like retumbo or RL33.
you are f***g retarded!

N555 is rated at 3700 J / g. Do you even know what this means and what is 'J' and what is 'g' ??
 
Is there any harm in not cleaning? I got a Bartlein .308 stainless heavy Palma. I only clean with a bore snake and motor oil if I've been out in the rain.4x ish. It shoots good. 960rds.
 
Is there any harm in not cleaning? I got a Bartlein .308 stainless heavy Palma. I only clean with a bore snake and motor oil if I've been out in the rain.4x ish. It shoots good. 960rds.
^^^^^ what Fredhammer said above.

Put it away dirty and after x amount of time the fouling in the barrel will cause pitting in the bore. So you have to do maintenance.

Also different powders can foul differently and cause accuracy issues as well even to the point I think it can cause bullet failures. So your back to cleaning again.

Later, Frank
Bartlein Barrels
 
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Is there any harm in not cleaning? I got a Bartlein .308 stainless heavy Palma. I only clean with a bore snake and motor oil if I've been out in the rain.4x ish. It shoots good. 960rds.
Just curious who in your life ever suggested not cleaning a barrel?? And no, a bore snake is a, IMO, a quick clean suitable for smooth bore shoguns but is not “cleaning” (again IMO) for a rifle barrel.

Best of luck.
 
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Just curious who in your life ever suggested not cleaning a barrel?? And no, a bore snake is a, IMO, a quick clean suitable for smooth bore shoguns but is not “cleaning” (again IMO) for a rifle barrel.

Best of luck.
It was a fad back in the mid-late 2000s. A lot of people fell for it. I did too. Then I saw all my barrels at the time rusty AF after a couple years of this bad advice...
 
Just curious who in your life ever suggested not cleaning a barrel?? And no, a bore snake is a, IMO, a quick clean suitable for smooth bore shoguns but is not “cleaning” (again IMO) for a rifle barrel.

Best of luck.
I'll get some pics next time I shoot it.
 
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I'll get some pics next time I shoot it.
Oh, and let me be clear, friend, it’s your rifle and you absolutely can do what you want with it.

I’d just never heard anybody say they don’t clean their rifle bores before.

Again, best of luck.
 
I think the intent to not use 91.8% is the remaining ~8 % is water....and after the alcohol evaporates you'll be theoretically left with a small amount of moisture in the barrel...

...is it a practical concern? I dunno...
That is like arguing about how many angels can dance on the head of a pin.

If I store a rifle its bore will have a very thin film of oil or grease. If I take it out to use it I'll degrease the bore. If I were to use alcohol to do so and said alcohol had a tiny percentage of water it it ain't gonna be any worse than the atmospheric moisture.

Every time I think I've heard the most fudd/ridiculous gun related thing, someone in this forum moves the needle again.
 
Yeha I agree, I generally do a light swab of oil so the potential remnant moisture isnt any great concern....
I don't use alcohol to clean the bore. So what % of water may be in it is irrelevant.

I only use alcohol in the bore as a degreaser. At that point any water in the alcohol is irrelevant too because I'm gonna be using it.

This whole thing about alcohol purity is retarded.
 
If I store a rifle its bore will have a very thin film of oil or grease. If I take it out to use it I'll degrease the bore. If I were to use alcohol to do so and said alcohol had a tiny percentage of water it it ain't gonna be any worse than the atmospheric moisture.
I store all my guns with a light coat of Hoppe's #9 solvent. It protects as good as any oil and will also keep cleaning. It will partially evaporate/get thick/gummy over time. Before shooting it I'll run a couple of light wet patches down the bore and then dry patch the bore/chamber before shooting it.

I've used CLP in the past for storage as well. I want to say years and years ago... I've actually run a patch of grease down the bores but I can't tell ya the last time I did that.
 
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I store all my guns with a light coat of Hoppe's #9 solvent. It protects as good as any oil and will also keep cleaning. It will partially evaporate/get thick/gummy over time. Before shooting it I'll run a couple of light wet patches down the bore and then dry patch the bore/chamber before shooting it.

I've used CLP in the past for storage as well. I want to say years and years ago... I've actually run a patch of grease down the bores but I can't tell ya the last time I did that.
I'm putting tags on my rifles that have oil/preservative left in the bores. I didn't do this opening of the shooting season for me and had an OP round that blew the primer with WTF moment...until I realized what/why/who fucked it up.
 
Frank you will love this. My season just ended so i pulled all the barrels for a clean/inspection

I have 2 of your barrels, both in 6GT, 26" and one a MTU and one a M24. Both cut by Wade Stutesville on same reamer.

One has 1980 on it, but was running H4350 at 2950
The other is about 1750 running H4350 around 2840.

Both were cleaned every 300 or so rounds with boretech C4 and/or eliminator and a nylon brush. Thats only thing that ever touches them.

The difference in firecracking and carbon buildup was dramatic. I spent an hour using boretech , patches and brushes on each. Hit with borescope again and from the throat to about 10 inches in front , still heavy carbon in the lands.

Now both barrels still shoot in the .2-.3's, fantastic shooters. One was pulled last season and has been sitting, the other is from this season.

I was playing with some CLR on muzzle brakes and decided, screw it lets see how this CLR stuff works. I plugged both chambers and filled to the crown with fresh CLR for 30 minutes. Dumped the shit, pushed patches through, and amazingly, did not look much better than before. Scrubbed some more with nylon brushed and patched till dry (stored in climate controlled gun room, so no worry of corrosion).

Both "clean" barrels look like candystripes on a borescope. You can see some copper flakes in the carbon which is built up in grooves. I am sure I could spend hours cycling cleaning to get it out, but whats the point. They both shoot so well and I have never had carbon ring buildup with H4350. Next step is one of your 6.5cm barrels that has about 1500 on it. Will be interested to see how it compares to the 6mm, both running same powder.

So CLR was really not that impressive over the non corrosive /non ammonia based cleaners. Yea its cool to see it fizzle up, but its no miracle. For stuff like muzzle brakes its old, but better of thin large surface areas vs something thicker like carbon in grooves. I am sure i could have left it in there for a day and it would have worked better, but not risking these barrels.

I am hoping the slower barrel will go to 3K before it gives up the ghost. Going to start shooting 1 days with the old 1980rd barrel until it gives it up.

Point is, CLR is not some mirricle, so the risk really does not seem to justify the reward.
 
I'm putting tags on my rifles that have oil/preservative left in the bores. I didn't do this opening of the shooting season for me and had an OP round that blew the primer with WTF moment...until I realized what/why/who fucked it up.
Yep.... any oil/solvent in the chamber etc... the brass doesn't get a chance to bit the chamber walls...so all the pressure and thrust goes to the bolt face and will make opening the bolt really hard. Had a Swat team gun in here a few years ago for rebuild. When he pulled it out of the case he asked me to look at this one piece of brass. The primers was as flat as a pancake with ejector marks to boot. He said when he fired it the bolt opened really hard as well. I asked him... was it the first round of the day? He said yes. I said the barrel was clean? He said yes. My guess was he had a lot of solvent left in the bore. So when we took the barrel off the action when we went to do the rebarrel job.... the breech threads literally almost dripped with solvent. The lug area of the receiver was all baked/caked up with the solvent getting hot etc....... Yep he left solvent in the bore. I took a picture of it at the time but didn't save the pic and I showed him how it looked when we pulled it a part.

Any oil/solvent in the bore in my opinion can/will drive up pressures as well. That being said I know of a couple of guys for the first rounds fired thru the barrel will have the bore dripping wet but the chambers are dry (I don't recommend doing this by the way) and supposedly haven't had any issues but you won't see me doing it.
 
Frank, if you`ve commented on this in the past ( so much on this subject, will be surprised if you haven`t ), my apologies. What do think of penetrating oil ( Kroil? ) mixed with some Hoppe`s #9 or C4 as a carbon remover, particularly near and in the throat area? Again, my apologies if you`ve addressed this. Hard to remember everything in my advanced age!
 
Yep.... any oil/solvent in the chamber etc... the brass doesn't get a chance to bit the chamber walls...so all the pressure and thrust goes to the bolt face and will make opening the bolt really hard.
Its my understanding that the British don’t use proof loads, they use regular loads with the cases heavily lubed/oiled to check their new builds..
 
Frank, if you`ve commented on this in the past ( so much on this subject, will be surprised if you haven`t ), my apologies. What do think of penetrating oil ( Kroil? ) mixed with some Hoppe`s #9 or C4 as a carbon remover, particularly near and in the throat area? Again, my apologies if you`ve addressed this. Hard to remember everything in my advanced age!
I've never used Kroil oil myself. Either straight or mixed. I know of guys using it.

Mark at work just mixed up some more jungle juice as the BR guys call it. If I recall correctly, it has sea foam and Marvel Mystery oil and maybe Kroil oil. He hasn't done it in a long time. So he mixed some up and he's cleaning a BR barrel that has 2500+ rounds on it. Cleaned it yesterday and let it sit overnight. Dry patched it and checked for pitting/etching. Nothing. He ran three more wet patches down it and dry patched it again. Took a lot of carbon out but basically didn't touch any copper fouling.

I'll ask him exactly what the recipe is, but I'm gone for a few days down to Quantico. So be patient on a reply.

Ed's Red (you can google the formula) is pretty popular as well.
 
I use straight Kroil to clean out my bore of Butch’s and then run a dry patch or two to take out any left over.
 
I've never used Kroil oil myself. Either straight or mixed. I know of guys using it.

Mark at work just mixed up some more jungle juice as the BR guys call it. If I recall correctly, it has sea foam and Marvel Mystery oil and maybe Kroil oil. He hasn't done it in a long time. So he mixed some up and he's cleaning a BR barrel that has 2500+ rounds on it. Cleaned it yesterday and let it sit overnight. Dry patched it and checked for pitting/etching. Nothing. He ran three more wet patches down it and dry patched it again. Took a lot of carbon out but basically didn't touch any copper fouling.

I'll ask him exactly what the recipe is, but I'm gone for a few days down to Quantico. So be patient on a reply.

Ed's Red (you can google the formula) is pretty popular as well.
Thanks much Frank. Appreciate the response.
 
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I've never used Kroil oil myself. Either straight or mixed. I know of guys using it.

Mark at work just mixed up some more jungle juice as the BR guys call it. If I recall correctly, it has sea foam and Marvel Mystery oil and maybe Kroil oil. He hasn't done it in a long time. So he mixed some up and he's cleaning a BR barrel that has 2500+ rounds on it. Cleaned it yesterday and let it sit overnight. Dry patched it and checked for pitting/etching. Nothing. He ran three more wet patches down it and dry patched it again. Took a lot of carbon out but basically didn't touch any copper fouling.

I'll ask him exactly what the recipe is, but I'm gone for a few days down to Quantico. So be patient on a reply.

Ed's Red (you can google the formula) is pretty popular as well.
At Quantico? Dang, missed a chance to meet in person again. I’m in GA for some quail and deer hunting.

Maybe in the spring if you do it again, Frank.

Travel safe.
 
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Oh, once upon a time it was suggested to me to mix Kriol and Shooter’s Choice 50/50 with the rationale that the Kroil will take the SC into much smaller pores and such.

Worked ok but nothing magic, IME.
 
Hey Guys,
All the oil does is allow the patch to move smoothly through the bore, doesn't make any difference if it's Marvels, Kroil or 3 n 1 oil--it's just lube, not solvent. Without it, it's too sticky to push a patch cleanly.
The main reason I use Marvels is because I can't stand the smell of Kroil and it take 3 days to get that stink off my hands.
I just started playing with this mix and I need to add a little more oil and work with it some more, but so far we haven't seen any damage like we saw with CLR right away.
Just a heads-up, it doesn't do anything with Copper fowling, just Carbon.
Later, Mark
Bartlein Barrels Inc.
 
Are they doing that intentionally?

Do you know their rational?


Or was it an accident and they just forgot to swab the barrel before hand?
They did it intentionally on a brand new barrel. The logic behind it is to have a lubricant of some sort in the bore to help reduce the initial copper fouling.

I don't recommend doing it. My .02.
 
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At Quantico? Dang, missed a chance to meet in person again. I’m in GA for some quail and deer hunting.

Maybe in the spring if you do it again, Frank.

Travel safe.
Thanks and we made it back home!

That place is busy is all I'll say!

It's officially the last Scout Sniper class. From what I understand they will now just teach shooting for sniping and nothing else. Sounds like they will do several of those a year and they did ask for me to come when I can. They like the info they get!
 

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From what I understand they will now just teach shooting for sniping and nothing else.
Do you know what this means, really? That is, they won't be teach scouting/recon but will only teach sniper shooting....but to whom? Will they still have dedicated snipers or is this training for a broader range of positions in the Marines. Just curious is all.

Cheers and glad you made it home safe...me too. Now, if you still labor under the impression that humanity is smart and wonderful and has a great future, drive a dozen hours on interstates. That will strip you of any remaining illusions about mankind. Crap I saw on I-95 coming home yesterday added a lot of grey hair to my already grey haired head! haha Absolute morons doing incomprehensible things. And yeah, they almost got me once near Lumberton, NC. A quick dive onto the green sward median strip is all that saved my poor auto.

Best of luck to you and yours, Frank.
 
Do you know what this means, really? That is, they won't be teach scouting/recon but will only teach sniper shooting....but to whom? Will they still have dedicated snipers or is this training for a broader range of positions in the Marines. Just curious is all.

Cheers and glad you made it home safe...me too. Now, if you still labor under the impression that humanity is smart and wonderful and has a great future, drive a dozen hours on interstates. That will strip you of any remaining illusions about mankind. Crap I saw on I-95 coming home yesterday added a lot of grey hair to my already grey haired head! haha Absolute morons doing incomprehensible things. And yeah, they almost got me once near Lumberton, NC. A quick dive onto the green sward median strip is all that saved my poor auto.

Best of luck to you and yours, Frank.
From what I gather they will only teach shooting skills. As far as I know all the scout/recon stuff as we/they know it is done.

I think there will be no dedicated snipers per se as we know it. These guys will filter into recon units is my guess from what I'm hearing or the guys with the training for using sniper rifles will be filtered into standard infantry units.

Usually when I go out there I get to see Trooper D. (that's what we call him / I omitted his real name). He's a VA State Trooper. Car and motorcycle cop. D always has pretty good stories. The one I got this last time out was back in May 2022 he pulled a woman over for passing him on I95 at 95-100mph. On her cell phone and putting make up on at the same time... He wrote her up several tickets and told the lady she is going to kill someone....went to court blah blah blah.... Sept of 2022 he has a SUV pulled over for speeding. He said normally when he walks back to his cruiser he always walks around and behind it. For whatever reason he walked between his cruiser and the Suv. Just as he almost cleared the front end of his cruiser it gets rear ended at 75mph by another vehicle. He bounces off the car and is thrown into the freeway ends up with a broken wrist and some messed up vertebrae. He looks up and sees cars coming and is about to get run over... he quickly rolls over to the shoulder. Gets up and runs over to the car that rear ended his cruiser... guess what.... same woman he pulled over back in May plowed into his cruiser. The cruiser slammed into the SUV and the 3 people in there had to go to the hospital as well.

Can't make it up!

Trooper D is doing good and has been back doing his job!
 
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From what I gather they will only teach shooting skills. As far as I know all the scout/recon stuff as we/they know it is done.

I think there will be no dedicated snipers per se as we know it. These guys will filter into recon units is my guess from what I'm hearing or the guys with the training for using sniper rifles will be filtered into standard infantry units.

Usually when I go out there I get to see Trooper D. (that's what we call him / I omitted his real name). He's a VA State Trooper. Car and motorcycle cop. D always has pretty good stories. The one I got this last time out was back in May 2022 he pulled a woman over for passing him on I95 at 95-100mph. On her cell phone and putting make up on at the same time... He wrote her up several tickets and told the lady she is going to kill someone....went to court blah blah blah.... Sept of 2022 he has a SUV pulled over for speeding. He said normally when he walks back to his cruiser he always walks around and behind it. For whatever reason he walked between his cruiser and the Suv. Just as he almost cleared the front end of his cruiser it gets rear ended at 75mph by another vehicle. He bounces off the car and is thrown into the freeway ends up with a broken wrist and some messed up vertebrae. He looks up and sees cars coming and is about to get run over... he quickly rolls over to the shoulder. Gets up and runs over to the car that rear ended his cruiser... guess what.... same woman he pulled over back in May plowed into his cruiser. The cruiser slammed into the SUV and the 3 people in there had to go to the hospital as well.

Can't make it up!

Trooper D is doing good and has been back doing his job!
Wow....what a story from Trooper D! Glad he's doing well but I fear that those back injuries will plague him at some point if not already. Ask me how I know 🤔 ;).

Thanks for the feedback on Marine Scout/Snipers. I suspect that at some point the Marines will see this as a mistake and will regret the day they did away with this specialty.

Cheers and thanks again.
 
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Its my understanding that the British don’t use proof loads, they use regular loads with the cases heavily lubed/oiled to check their new builds..

That sounds like BS

By law, all firearms sold in the UK (regardless of who made them) have to pass proof test in one of the several proof houses in the country. The testing is very well regulated and documented.

I find it hard to believe in the extreme that the proof houses would rely on something so difficult to control and reproduce as a cartridge coated in oil, instead of using a carefully prepared, easily reproducible and traceable proof cartridge.

PS, you cannot do your own proof testing in the UK. I mean you can, but it won't be accepted by anyone as valid.
 
When using an abrasive like Rem 40X, what diameter Parker Hale jag is recommended for 6.5 Creedmoor or 308 Winchester?

On the 6.5 Creedmoor, would you use the .22 PH jag?
On the 308 Winchester, would you use the .243/.57/6.5 PH jag?

If this is the case, there does not seem to a PH jag suitable for using an abrasive on a .223 Remington.
 
When using an abrasive like Rem 40X, what diameter Parker Hale jag is recommended for 6.5 Creedmoor or 308 Winchester?

On the 6.5 Creedmoor, would you use the .22 PH jag?
On the 308 Winchester, would you use the .243/.57/6.5 PH jag?

If this is the case, there does not seem to a PH jag suitable for using an abrasive on a .223 Remington.
Use the .243/.257/6.5 for 6.5 Creedmoor, the #30CPH for .308, the #22CPH for .22

These style jags will use a larger sized patch such as you'd use with the old style military patch loops.
I use the plain old tan mil surplus M16 patches with the .22 PH jag.

If a particular brand patch is too snug in a particular bore, trim a bit off with some scissors.
 
Yep… if it’s shooting…. Don’t look down the bore! You will get a head case going on! That’s funny!

Guys I rarely look down the barrel. I look at the chamber work and crown work when that gets done. All looks good… it gets screwed on the gun. The only time I’ll look down it is if I start seeing a problem on the target or something else is making me question it. Usually though if the barrel has a lot of rounds on it and you start having issues. It’s probably time to pull it anyways.
Thankyou so much for posting this sir. I have worn out many, many of your barrels with great success, (shooting not cleaning), never had an average one let alone a bad one. The target doesn’t lie. I watch BR guys at the range with disbelief some days, constantly raping their barrels with all manner of abrasives, and constantly bore - scoping like they are getting paid per view.…. On the up side, you get to sell them more barrels 😀
 
That sounds like BS

By law, all firearms sold in the UK (regardless of who made them) have to pass proof test in one of the several proof houses in the country. The testing is very well regulated and documented.

I find it hard to believe in the extreme that the proof houses would rely on something so difficult to control and reproduce as a cartridge coated in oil, instead of using a carefully prepared, easily reproducible and traceable proof cartridge.

PS, you cannot do your own proof testing in the UK. I mean you can, but it won't be accepted by anyone as valid.
I vaguely remember Gary Costello in the UK telling me something along those lines. Every time a one of his F rifles gets a new barrel, it goes to a proof house for a couple of hot loads before it’s GTG.
 
So i ended up CLRING 2 older barrels to see how they would do stripping carbon out of the grooves. Both Bartlien Barrels right around the 2k mark with 6gt. I ended up running boretech and normal cleaning cycle after and was not really impressed. Put thread protectors on them and threw into pile of barrels.

Fast forward a few weeks i go to swap barrels on guns and look through bores. Both of the bartliens have rust/crystals growing on bore. Ran a bunch of wet patches and brushes to get it out. Never seen rust grow up like that on a stainless barrel. I hope they still shoot, we will see.

Just say no to CLR.
 
When using an abrasive like Rem 40X, what diameter Parker Hale jag is recommended for 6.5 Creedmoor or 308 Winchester?

On the 6.5 Creedmoor, would you use the .22 PH jag?
On the 308 Winchester, would you use the .243/.57/6.5 PH jag?

If this is the case, there does not seem to a PH jag suitable for using an abrasive on a .223 Remington.

Mr. Green actually took the time to to PM back and forth with me about use of abrasives.

6.5...use 6.5 Parker Hale style jag and use an oversized patch wrapped around it (like rolling a cigarette...well, or a joint? haha).

I believe I'm using 1 3/4" patches for this application which is way too big to use with a pointy jag. But, need the extra size with the PH style.

Key is keeping the dang thing from exiting the muzzle. You want to stroke it back and forth (yeah, insert adolescent masturbation joke here haha) and NOT exit the muzzle. Frank mentioned putting the muzzle up against a wall as one way to accomplish this. Me....I found a round metal slug that would fit into the end of a thread protector and screw that on to keep it in.

Works well.

Cheers
 
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Bought a set of these from Sinclair 30ish years ago.