I hate dry tumbling after resizing - what are the alternatives

Yondering

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I dry tumble off the lube and then uniform prime hole. To get media out of case to start, hold against the rim of tumbler and vibrate media out as I take cases out of tumbler.
If you just use the right grade of corncob media to start with, nothing gets stuck in the flash holes and everything is a lot easier.

FWIW this Lyman corncob media I tried recently sucks though; lots of chaff that gets everywhere, and it sticks in flash holes too. Typical of Lyman, they outsourced some cheap Chinese garbage instead of choosing something that works right. I won’t by any more of this junk.

Good corn cob media, in comparison, doesn’t make a mess like the Lyman junk does, and if it’s sized right it won’t get stuck in flash holes. My old source went out of business so I’m looking for a new supply of it.
 

Sniperwannabee

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    I never clean my brass , I use the water soluble rcbs lube and after handling in so much during the rest of the process it gets clean enough and it never has given me any problem in AR’s or bolt guns. Suppressed sub’s from my AR I’ll clean with ultra sonic and lemon shine
     
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    Yondering

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    I never clean my brass , I use the water soluble rcbs lube and after handling in so much during the rest of the process it gets clean enough and it never has given me any problem in AR’s or bolt guns. Suppressed sub’s from my AR I’ll clean with ultra sonic and lemon shine
    Good for you, but if you ever shoot somewhere that's not a clean square range you might want to try cleaning your brass before running it into the sizing die. Just a tip.
     
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    tom evans

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    I don't mind dry tumbling my fired brass since I usually leave it on in the shop for 5 hours but I hate having to do the process again after lubing and resizing because then there's always shit in the primers flash holes and I always worry that a tiny piece of corncob get stuck inside the case. If I don't really case about flashy brass, can't I just get a wet tumbler without the SS pins and simply remove the lube that way ? But then you have to dry them and that also involves more work. I do have a food dryer that I barely ever use so I guess that would work for a small batch.

    Or if I only do a batch of 100x 6.5 or 308 at a time, wouldn't a small ultrasonic be better ? Right now I'm looking at the Frankford ROTARY TUMBLER LITE for wet tumbling or the Hornady Lock-N-Load Sonic Cleaner
    i use a frankford wet tumbler with Frankford brass cleaning solvent. it produces brilliant clean brass.

    if you are reloading previously fired brass and want good results (Precision) you must anneal the case necks. if you anneal, you must yank the old primers first....just for safety sake and to prepare for good cleaning.

    if you have a hand decapping tool, (they are awesome) they save decaying pins in the full length sizing die. decap first then wet clean with the brass juice or frankford cleaner 1-3 oz per gallon, set in roto drum for 1 -2 hours, and....brillience. i also squirt in a little Dawn pump detergent. wash with hot water and use a leaf blower to get rid of the spots on the exterior of the cases. Set up the dehydrator at 135F for a couple hours and the insides will be completely dry.

    we are talking about really precision loading here, so ever step may seem anal, but it all adds up to precision.

    i also chamfer and deburr, before cleaning and drying so the bullets seat easily and don't scratch their way into the case.

    Gunky lube doesn't want to come off very easily and you can still expect to need wiping out the inside of the case neck with a patch or something before dropping powder if you dont want it to stick in the case mouth as you set a bullet.

    SS Pins do a great job but stick in the bottom of all but the largest magnum cases....forget them. chemicals work great

    Dillon or Frankford spray lube and resize....now they are all gummy....back into the wet cleaner and dryer....

    Now you have brilliant and dry brass for loading....load them up. (note that if you annealed the brass and got the annealing color on the cases, these colorations will disappear after chemical cleaning...they will look and be like new)

    now you have greasy finger prints from the press, shell holder, and bench, and bullets with finger print stains on them, so after loading....then dry, vibrate the finished and loaded rounds and the entire round, case, and bullet will look like it came right out of a premium factory.

    consider getting some nitrile gloves or something to wear when handling ammo because there are a lot of chemicals in the fired residue, lead in the bullets and the brass metals. they also keep your product clean from the acid in your hand's natural moisture.

    if you are punching out a lot of plinking 223, who cares... if you are loading up 6.5 Creedmoor, or PRC, with ATIPS, then every little step counts.

    good luck
     

    Sniperwannabee

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    Good for you, but if you ever shoot somewhere that's not a clean square range you might want to try cleaning your brass before running it into the sizing die. Just a tip.
    I don’t ever shoot in a square range, of course I wipe them down but hardly ever ultra sonic or tumble. Of course if I’m in sand it’s a different story
     

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    Ridgeraider

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    I tumble in course corncob media, lube brass with hornady Unique lube and I simply have a micro fiber cloth that I soak with isopropyl alcohol place 5 pieces of lubed/sized brass on roll them around and place in a dry micro fiber and rub together and removes excess lube etc. same is true when I was using the spray-on dry lube from hornady. Tumbling twice would be like taking a shower every time you used the restroom!! The days of squirting rcbs case lube on a pad are gone
     

    marchboom

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    I use this media and it never gets stuck in the flash holes.

    amazon.com/Zilla-Reptile-Terrarium-Bedding-Substrate/dp/B000OQRGF2/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1BX74LX34999H&keywords=desert%2Bblend%2Bwalnut%2Bmedia&qid=1652978765&sprefix=%2Caps%2C2770&sr=8-1&th=1
     
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    st1650

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    I use this media and it never gets stuck in the flash holes.

    amazon.com/Zilla-Reptile-Terrarium-Bedding-Substrate/dp/B000OQRGF2/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1BX74LX34999H&keywords=desert%2Bblend%2Bwalnut%2Bmedia&qid=1652978765&sprefix=%2Caps%2C2770&sr=8-1&th=1
    I’ve also switch to the Zilla stuff. Makes a mess but works good.
     

    marchboom

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    I’ve also switch to the Zilla stuff. Makes a mess but works good.
    I put Nu-Finish in it along with a used dryer sheet. After tumbling I use a Dillon media separator then place the brass in a towel to remove any dust.

    Now with the weather getting better I put the vibrator tumbler outside and leave the top off. Any slight breeze will carry away any dust.
     
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    Yondering

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    if you are reloading previously fired brass and want good results (Precision) you must anneal the case necks. if you anneal, you must yank the old primers first....just for safety sake and to prepare for good cleaning.

    No. You do not need to remove fired primers before annealing.

    A lot of extra little anal steps does not make better ammo, it just satisfies some people’s OCD. If you study what actually matters you could eliminate a lot of the work and end up with ammo that is as good or better.
     

    Tchitcherine

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    So... nobody else is removing case lube after seating by use of an automotive parts washer?
     

    lash

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    It’s times like these that I wonder that some people ever get to shoot, what with all the complicated and compulsory stuff and things that are so time consuming. lol, just catching a laugh.

    I know that the loading process isn’t a joke or laughing matter, but seriously, some people are way too anal about some things. But each to their own.

    Hint: it doesn’t have to be that complicated.
     

    Sniperwannabee

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    It’s times like these that I wonder that some people ever get to shoot, what with all the complicated and compulsory stuff and things that are so time consuming. lol, just catching a laugh.

    I know that the loading process isn’t a joke or laughing matter, but seriously, some people are way too anal about some things. But each to their own.

    Hint: it doesn’t have to be that complicated.
    Bingo!!!!!!
     

    secondofangle2

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    If you just use the right grade of corncob media to start with, nothing gets stuck in the flash holes and everything is a lot easier.

    FWIW this Lyman corncob media I tried recently sucks though; lots of chaff that gets everywhere, and it sticks in flash holes too. Typical of Lyman, they outsourced some cheap Chinese garbage instead of choosing something that works right. I won’t by any more of this junk.

    Good corn cob media, in comparison, doesn’t make a mess like the Lyman junk does, and if it’s sized right it won’t get stuck in flash holes. My old source went out of business so I’m looking for a new supply of it.
    To me, this sounds completely nuts and frankly irrational. To each his own
     

    Yondering

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    To me, this sounds completely nuts and frankly irrational. To each his own
    I’m really curious, what part of my post sounds irrational and nuts? The part where just using a corn cob grade that doesn’t stick in flash holes takes most of the work out of the process, or the part where Lyman’s corn cob sucks?

    I’d like to know what you read into it that I didn’t say.
     

    9/11

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    If you just use the right grade of corncob media to start with, nothing gets stuck in the flash holes and everything is a lot easier.

    FWIW this Lyman corncob media I tried recently sucks though; lots of chaff that gets everywhere, and it sticks in flash holes too. Typical of Lyman, they outsourced some cheap Chinese garbage instead of choosing something that works right. I won’t by any more of this junk.

    Good corn cob media, in comparison, doesn’t make a mess like the Lyman junk does, and if it’s sized right it won’t get stuck in flash holes. My old source went out of business so I’m looking for a new supply of it.
    I use walnut shells that I would use in a media blaster to vibrate brass and a little brass polish I write on my brass with sharpie for col bullet weight powder type and content cause I want consistency given to me by deburring and measuring precisely If my rounds don't 1/4 moa or better I won't register them as keepers!
     

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    secondofangle2

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    i use a frankford wet tumbler with Frankford brass cleaning solvent. it produces brilliant clean brass.

    if you are reloading previously fired brass and want good results (Precision) you must anneal the case necks. if you anneal, you must yank the old primers first....just for safety sake and to prepare for good cleaning.

    if you have a hand decapping tool, (they are awesome) they save decaying pins in the full length sizing die. decap first then wet clean with the brass juice or frankford cleaner 1-3 oz per gallon, set in roto drum for 1 -2 hours, and....brillience. i also squirt in a little Dawn pump detergent. wash with hot water and use a leaf blower to get rid of the spots on the exterior of the cases. Set up the dehydrator at 135F for a couple hours and the insides will be completely dry.

    we are talking about really precision loading here, so ever step may seem anal, but it all adds up to precision.

    i also chamfer and deburr, before cleaning and drying so the bullets seat easily and don't scratch their way into the case.

    Gunky lube doesn't want to come off very easily and you can still expect to need wiping out the inside of the case neck with a patch or something before dropping powder if you dont want it to stick in the case mouth as you set a bullet.

    SS Pins do a great job but stick in the bottom of all but the largest magnum cases....forget them. chemicals work great

    Dillon or Frankford spray lube and resize....now they are all gummy....back into the wet cleaner and dryer....

    Now you have brilliant and dry brass for loading....load them up. (note that if you annealed the brass and got the annealing color on the cases, these colorations will disappear after chemical cleaning...they will look and be like new)

    now you have greasy finger prints from the press, shell holder, and bench, and bullets with finger print stains on them, so after loading....then dry, vibrate the finished and loaded rounds and the entire round, case, and bullet will look like it came right out of a premium factory.

    consider getting some nitrile gloves or something to wear when handling ammo because there are a lot of chemicals in the fired residue, lead in the bullets and the brass metals. they also keep your product clean from the acid in your hand's natural moisture.

    if you are punching out a lot of plinking 223, who cares... if you are loading up 6.5 Creedmoor, or PRC, with ATIPS, then every little step counts.

    good luck
    This is nuts and irrational.
     

    secondofangle2

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    I’m really curious, what part of my post sounds irrational and nuts? The part where just using a corn cob grade that doesn’t stick in flash holes takes most of the work out of the process, or the part where Lyman’s corn cob sucks?

    I’d like to know what you read into it that I didn’t say.
    Sorry bro I quoted the wrong post my bad. Nothing about the cobs is nuts
     
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    akmike47

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    My problem is getting dust stuck to the lube in the case neck. I barely put any lube in the neck I don't get it. I never hear anyone else having this problem.

    I have to clean the shit out of the case necks every time with a brush and 700 Q-tips.
     

    Yondering

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    My problem is getting dust stuck to the lube in the case neck. I barely put any lube in the neck I don't get it. I never hear anyone else having this problem.

    I have to clean the shit out of the case necks every time with a brush and 700 Q-tips.
    Dust from what? Is your loading area really dusty, or do you mean from tumbling?

    If tumbling- walnut makes a lot of dust, corn cob doesn’t.
     

    akmike47

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    Dust from what? Is your loading area really dusty, or do you mean from tumbling?

    If tumbling- walnut makes a lot of dust, corn cob doesn’t.
    Walnut dust, it shouldn’t cake on and fill 1/4-1/3 of the neck opening either way.
     

    Yondering

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    Walnut dust, it shouldn’t cake on and fill 1/4-1/3 of the neck opening either way.
    If you’re not taking steps to remove the dust from the tumbling media as you use it, it’ll build up. Sounds like you’d be best off to throw that batch out if it’s got that much dust. Switch to some decent corn cob (not Lyman!!) with Dillon case polish, and your problem will disappear. The corn cob will scrub most of the lube out of the necks but won’t build up in there unless you’re just way over lubing.
     

    akmike47

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    If you’re not taking steps to remove the dust from the tumbling media as you use it, it’ll build up. Sounds like you’d be best off to throw that batch out if it’s got that much dust. Switch to some decent corn cob (not Lyman!!) with Dillon case polish, and your problem will disappear. The corn cob will scrub most of the lube out of the necks but won’t build up in there unless you’re just way over lubing.
    I put in polish, dryer sheets, and all the BS, run it without a lid no difference. Even run it empty without a lid to get the dust out.

    Been trying shit for several years, dry tumbling is just shit. When I lube I touch the surface of the lube and put the smallest amount possible, every 3-4 cases I scrape my postal dry finger across the opening leaving the tiniest bead of lube.
     

    Yondering

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    I put in polish, dryer sheets, and all the BS, run it without a lid no difference. Even run it empty without a lid to get the dust out.

    Been trying shit for several years, dry tumbling is just shit. When I lube I touch the surface of the lube and put the smallest amount possible, every 3-4 cases I scrape my postal dry finger across the opening leaving the tiniest bead of lube.
    Again, get rid of the walnut. That is the source of all your problems with dry tumbling.

    Good corn cob media does not make any dust. Troubles gone.

    I don’t know why people are so stubborn about this? It’s such an easy solution.
     

    akmike47

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    Again, get rid of the walnut. That is the source of all your problems with dry tumbling.

    Good corn cob media does not make any dust. Troubles gone.

    I don’t know why people are so stubborn about this? It’s such an easy solution.
    I'm not being stubborn I'm just not happy with it in general I've used corn cob and it had its own issues so I threw it away
     

    lash

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    Again, get rid of the walnut. That is the source of all your problems with dry tumbling.

    Good corn cob media does not make any dust. Troubles gone.

    I don’t know why people are so stubborn about this? It’s such an easy solution.
    Each to their own. I’ve been using walnut for years, and years. I don’t have the huge dust problem that some seem to have. Just lucky I guess. As mentioned much earlier in the thread, it matters what brand and size you use.

    I truly don’t care what you use to clean your brass, nor how you load. There’s more than one way to skin a cat despite what many think. Consistency it’s the most important factor anyway, no matter if you use unicorn dust and rainbow polish.
     

    Yondering

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    I'm not being stubborn I'm just not happy with it in general I've used corn cob and it had its own issues so I threw it away
    What issues did you have? Only corn cob issues I’ve ever had is with this Lyman stuff because they didn’t clean out all the chaff. Other corn cob has worked so well and easily it’s just never an issue.
     

    Yondering

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    Next time he should make a 30 second video because that's all the longer it should take. I watched in 2.0 playback speed and had to keep fast forwarding to get to the point. THe point is woolite.
    Agreed. I am so tired of 10 minute (or whatever) videos with 30 seconds of real info. I guess some guys have nothing better to do but personally I don’t have the time to waste watching that stuff.
     
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    giumau1

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    I use the Imperial very sparingly, so it’s not a big problem wipe each round with a towel soaked with alcohol after seating the bullet ( and just before checking it with a Sheridan slotted gauge).