In my cleaning process, i use walnut to clean gross dirt, spray with lube, resize/decap, then wash in a wet tumbler with stainless pins & Frankfort brass cleaner, which make the flash holes clean. For “blasting ammo” like 9mm & other straight wall cases, i don’t bother cleaning pockets. With 5.56 i skip the wet tumble but clean the pockets with an RCBS small primer pocket brush while trimming.I remember watching a video many years ago from a benchrest shooter who tested clean vs untouched primer pockets. The results if I remember correctly were exactly the same.
I clean mine because it takes about 2 seconds per case. Just knock the big powder debris out
I take that shot all the time with dirty primer pockets. The wind causes me way more problems than a little carbon.Maybe , need to get a 1k yard shoot with the non primer pocket cleaners & non flash hole deburrers against the primer pocket cleaners & flash hole deburrers . Who you gonna take ?
A 3-shot group before a cease fire was called.Im just an innocent bystander still learning , post you best 1k group .
I don’t even know how to clean primer pockets. But I do deprime before going into the wet tumbler with stainless media.
LOL. Do you have any idea of how many rounds you’d have to shoot to know if there were a difference that small?
That is pretty funny! Was speaking more to adding that step plus others like a good sizing die, cleaning the necks with a stiff bristled or bronze brush, mandrel to the necks etc. I went from teens to 0-2 SDs total on some of my loads.
And what makes this funnier is that I dont think Im a good enough shot to tell the difference between a 10 SD and a 2 SD load.
All of these loads are absolute hammers!
As a hunter I guess a few shots over the chrony tell you what you need to know as your not shooting longer stings as a lot of guys here do…the point of my post was that these low ESs and SDs do not hold up as you shoot more rounds over the chrony.@LR1845 I’m a hunter first and foremost. Yes I owe it to the game to know what my loads are doing but I’m not sure why I would need to shoot 50 rounds to test consistency. How much difference did you see from the 10 shot to the 67 shot numbers?
I shoot longer strings with ball powder that were thrown charges to see if a high or low throw would pull one out of the group. I had a few rounds hang loading on the bottom edge of the charge range.
I should start sorting for the 308 since we have several hundred cases of first fired fc and also cbcLooks good. Do you sort your brass by weight as well?
I should start sorting for the 308 since we have several hundred cases of first fired fc and also cbc
Which has crimped pockets .
I think the rest of my process is set well and should be able to see a result from sorting now, besides it's a free improvement.
Running out of varget and 8208 sucked bad. The cfe223 works but I can tell just not quite perfect.
Re-doing seating depth test on the 168 smk at 0.003 increments since last time was at 0.005 and 3 thousands nt instead of 2 thousands with the mandrell.
The mandrell is well worth the step.
The ammo got better, then the shooting got better but now realize the extent of the barrels we have are nearly maxed out for performance expectations..
It just never stops prying the wallet open. Lol
I think I know what you're trying to say, but I'm not seeing the correlation here. Nearly all bolts jiggle on a dry fire, because there is nothing to go between the shoulder and the bolt face. The fitment of the bolt to the action (specifically the rear band) and the fitment of the cocking piece to bolt shroud and the cocking piece raceway in the action are some of the critical areas that would determine how much the bolt wiggled during dry fire.If your bolt jiggles after dry firing on a closed bolt...you most likely could benefit from a tighter headspace.