I've been reading online that the Lee collet neck dies are very accurate but in order to get them to process brass smoothly slight modifications are needed. Does anyone have any experience with these dies that might be able to shed a little light before I use this die for the first time?
- Thread starter asmith5144
- Start date
Re: Lee Collet neck dies
Take it apart and clean it well. Lubricate the inside of the die and the outside of the fingers of the collet with a good heavy weight grease. I use a moly containg grease. That allows the fingers to retract smoothly. Other than that, set it up like Lee directs and you are good to go.
Take it apart and clean it well. Lubricate the inside of the die and the outside of the fingers of the collet with a good heavy weight grease. I use a moly containg grease. That allows the fingers to retract smoothly. Other than that, set it up like Lee directs and you are good to go.
Re: Lee Collet neck dies
Just remember that Lee, in order to keep costs down isn't much for fit or finish when it comes to dies.
Even the best of dies should be cleaned and lubed before first use. With the Lee collet die do the same but look carefully for any burrs or pieces of metal left from the machining process.
Another tip, when sizing a fired case, run the ram up until it stops with minimal pressure. Then lower, rotate the case about 20 degrees or so and run the ram up again, applying the recommended 25 ft lbs or so. This will minimize the collet marks and slight ridges on the case neck. Some will even rotate a full 180 degrees to insure that there is as little case run out as possible.
I use anti-seize to lube the cone of the collet and the collet bushing as this is a high pressure area. Works fine and less chance of dripping on the case as oil might do.
Just remember that Lee, in order to keep costs down isn't much for fit or finish when it comes to dies.
Even the best of dies should be cleaned and lubed before first use. With the Lee collet die do the same but look carefully for any burrs or pieces of metal left from the machining process.
Another tip, when sizing a fired case, run the ram up until it stops with minimal pressure. Then lower, rotate the case about 20 degrees or so and run the ram up again, applying the recommended 25 ft lbs or so. This will minimize the collet marks and slight ridges on the case neck. Some will even rotate a full 180 degrees to insure that there is as little case run out as possible.
I use anti-seize to lube the cone of the collet and the collet bushing as this is a high pressure area. Works fine and less chance of dripping on the case as oil might do.
Re: Lee Collet neck dies
I polished the cone outside of the collet fingers, and used moly grease on that surface. I also polished the mandrel, where the neck hits it with 220 grit, running the mandrel in a drill chuck, until the mandrel was .001" smaller there. Now I know when the neck is sized enough, when I feel a drag pulling the case out. I also rotate the case 90 deg and hit it again, lightly. I use it in my .308 Palma, and 6mm F class, 80% of rounds are less than ,001" runout. PS:Forster seater helps, too.
I polished the cone outside of the collet fingers, and used moly grease on that surface. I also polished the mandrel, where the neck hits it with 220 grit, running the mandrel in a drill chuck, until the mandrel was .001" smaller there. Now I know when the neck is sized enough, when I feel a drag pulling the case out. I also rotate the case 90 deg and hit it again, lightly. I use it in my .308 Palma, and 6mm F class, 80% of rounds are less than ,001" runout. PS:Forster seater helps, too.
Re: Lee Collet neck dies
Alright. I have taken everyone's advice and I've disassembled my collet die. I polished the four metal fingers that squeeze the casing neck and I applied moly grease to the back side of the fingers during assembly. So far everything has been working great.
At first it felt as though the die was not accomplishing anything but after taking a before and after measurement I realized that the die was returning the casing necks on my .308 brass down in size by almost .010''.
Also, this die is super easy to use. No lube, no mess. Down the road I will try polishing the ID mandrel down by a .001''
Thanks again guys.
Alright. I have taken everyone's advice and I've disassembled my collet die. I polished the four metal fingers that squeeze the casing neck and I applied moly grease to the back side of the fingers during assembly. So far everything has been working great.
At first it felt as though the die was not accomplishing anything but after taking a before and after measurement I realized that the die was returning the casing necks on my .308 brass down in size by almost .010''.
Also, this die is super easy to use. No lube, no mess. Down the road I will try polishing the ID mandrel down by a .001''
Thanks again guys.
Re: Lee Collet neck dies
You can buy smaller/larger mandrels from lee ($6?). I don't have the ability to be as concentric as the factory, so i just buy them from them.
You can buy smaller/larger mandrels from lee ($6?). I don't have the ability to be as concentric as the factory, so i just buy them from them.
Re: Lee Collet neck dies
There are a couple of things you can do to get better use of the die.
1) turn the necks to uniform them
2) clean the inside of the neck before you size the brass
I don't use any kind of grease as a lubricant, powdered graphite works real well and will not catch particulates.
There are a couple of things you can do to get better use of the die.
1) turn the necks to uniform them
2) clean the inside of the neck before you size the brass
I don't use any kind of grease as a lubricant, powdered graphite works real well and will not catch particulates.
Re: Lee Collet neck dies
+1 on the cleaning of the necks. I have a 8x32 tapped hole on my press that has a bore brush screwed in it that I run the case neck over before sizing.
+1 on the cleaning of the necks. I have a 8x32 tapped hole on my press that has a bore brush screwed in it that I run the case neck over before sizing.
