• Watch Out for Scammers!

    We've now added a color code for all accounts. Orange accounts are new members, Blue are full members, and Green are Supporters. If you get a message about a sale from an orange account, make sure you pay attention before sending any money!

New to long range / prs

bigperm720

Private
Minuteman
Mar 8, 2024
9
0
Kansas city
So I'm new to prs / long range shooting. I had the opportunity to go to a range near me with a guy that shoots prs and he let me use one of his guns. I was instantly hooked on getting setup to shoot matches but need to buy or build a rifle. I chose the building the rifle route. I'm trying to stay on a budget, does anyone have a recommendation for a good stock / chassis to look for new or used for around $700? Also I have been thinking about what muzzle break to run for a 6.5cm and have it down to the apa and area 419 breaks but don't know what one to get.

Basically in a nut shell I'm looking for some advice. So please impart some wisdom on a new guy to the scene. Very much appreciated.
 
You might find a used MPA BA Comp or ESR for around 700ish if youre patient. A PRS membership will save you some money at sponsor shops if you have to go new. Might be able to find a Foundation for around $1000 if you prefer stocks over chassis.

Go with the APA brake if you're looking the best recoil mitigation but the concussionwill be heavier. If you want the most comfortable to shoot brake will be an ACE . 419 makes a ton of really good stuff but in my opinion their muzzle brakes are not one of them. They're not great at recoil reduction and you still get the concussion.
 
There are MPAs in the PX right now for that price range. Go look for one and grab it.

Pass on the Area419 brake. It's ok but nothing great. Again go look in the PX as there have been some APAs in there. PVA Jet4 is another good option for recoil but also not beating up the shooter.
 
@bigperm720 if you are looking at that chassis for $850 you posted in then this one for $900 is well worth a look too. Would be a great base for a match rifle and you can adjust the weights and sell what you didn't need.

 
  • Like
Reactions: bigperm720
MPA BA comp or ACC premier would be good in that budget. The one linked right above me would seem to be really good starting point as mentioned with the extras. Without Warning TMB if you’re gonna shoot factory ammo. Tuner will help dial in factory ammo. Of the 2 you listed (I have both) the APA gen 3 is better.
 
Before you go and buy anything….Go to a prs match near you and check out the gear, rifles, chassis, stocks, calibers people are using. I am sure any shooter there will answer questions and would let you get behind their rifle and see how it feels. Thank me later.
 
  • Like
Reactions: R_A_W and delfuego
I’ve had MPA BA and currently run ACC’s (Prem for rimfire, Elite for PRS), and have my backup rifle in a Solus. The Solus chassis is an excellent budget choice. I like it better than the ACC Premier. Catch one when they’re on sale and it’s a screaming deal.
 
Hope you got lots of money to burn becuase gun componets is one small part of the cost. Not trying to scare you away but being realistic. It's not a cheap sport and when guys start talking about budgets up front, it's probally going to be uphill sledding.
 
Hope you got lots of money to burn becuase gun componets is one small part of the cost. Not trying to scare you away but being realistic. It's not a cheap sport and when guys start talking about budgets up front, it's probally going to be uphill sledding.
It was more of the budget to build the rifle. I just didn't want to spend the 5-8k I'm seeing another of these rifles costing. I have everything needed for reloading for shooting and most of the matches are local to where it's an hour and a half tops drive time.
 
That's what a decent gun setup is going to cost. It will cost more in the long run if you cheap out now vs buying stuff people run and win with.

The 2 most likely paths are you decide its not for you and sell your stuff. Since it's budget gear it's not gona hold its value and will only drop more with time.

Or you get hooked and end up having to replace everything, which is going to cost you more in long run as well.

Buying high end , used gear that holds its value is best way to preserve the value while not feeling need to constantly upgrade. If you decide to get out, you can get most of your money back.

Action is $1000-1500
Barrel is $5-800
Brake is $200
Trigger is $3-350
Chassis/stock with weights is like $1-2k
Good bipod is $4-600
Good optic is $1500-5k.

Kestral/binos/tripod/bags is another few grand.

The costs add up fast.

I would personally not buy a BA, they are hard to sell. Last one I had took a long time to sell and I lost alot of money on it. Move up to something like the matrix or an acc premier. They can be had for not much more.
 
None of these things matter more than the other. What matters is practice. Find what you like and/or what you like, and can get a deal on. Then practice.

Go to a prs match near you and check out the gear, rifles, chassis, stocks, calibers people are using. I am sure any shooter there will answer questions and would let you get behind their rifle and see how it feels. Thank me later.
Listen to this guy
 
It was more of the budget to build the rifle. I just didn't want to spend the 5-8k I'm seeing another of these rifles costing. I have everything needed for reloading for shooting and most of the matches are local to where it's an hour and a half tops drive time.
What state are you in?
 
If you can stretch your budget a bit. You can get an Impact 737R barreled action from Altus or Impact for around 2300. Wait for a used Foundation Centurion, they pop up for around $1k fairly regularly in the PX. Put a TT Special trigger in it and an ACE Brake on the muzzle. Under 4K you'll have an awesome rifle that you won't have to upgrade.
 
I went with a Solus barreled action. Got it on sale for $950. Found a Delta 5 pro chassis on sale at a gun shop for $900. Went with a Swampfox Warhawk 5x25 $450. Hit 1000 yards my first day. Have not gone to a match yet but it’s definitely going to happen soon.
 
I’m looking at buying a new gun for mostly long range use 400yds plus and I’d like some info before I buy. My budget is about $2,200 at the most for the rifle itself. I’m looking at an AR-10 or the Christensen Arms MPR.

1. Is it possible to build a 1MOA AR-10 at this price point? Preferably in .308.

2. If not, would 300 PRC or 7 PRC be more suitable for long range (out to about 1000 yds)? (I would want a long action if I went with the MPR).

3. What would the barrel life be for each of these be?
 
1. Not likely especially if you don't have experience building and shooting accurized Ars. Christensen makes garbage guns just say no.

2. Both are way overkill for 1k shooting. 6.5cm , 6 cm or 6 dasher/br/gt are much better suited for shooting inside 1k without killing your barrel or wallet.

3. .308 has long barrel life but shitty ballistics and heavy recoil compared to those mentioned above. 7prc and 300prc are way more and you will be replacing barrels every 1000 rounds if lucky. 308 should last 5k depending on how hard you run them.

Something like a gap per, mpa pmr ( with discount code) or even a tikka tac a1 would be a good start. You could also grab a barreled action and drop in a bravo chassis and keep it around 2200. Could put together a rifle on the cheap as well. It's not hard.
 
As a step up from a n00b myself, a fantastic rifle to start with is a good plan if you can afford it. ...but if you can't, starting with *something* is better than not starting.

Me? I started with a Tikka T3x in 6.5 manbun. It's in an XLR chassis I got here. I have maybe a grand into the rifle and chassis by buying on sale or used. Is the rifle perfect? No. Is is good enough? Yes. Next rifle (barrel) is likely to be 6BR (or a derivative) after some of the stuff I've learned shooting the 6.5 manbun as well as rimfire matches.

Speaking of rimfire matches: most of the same skills, not nearly as much cost in ammo. Some of the rifles are as much as a CF rifle so I won't say definitively that RF is cheaper, The biggest difference is recoil management.

There are more things to buy on top of the rifle like bipods, barricade bags, scopes, ammo and/or reloading gear, etc so don't blow your wad on the rifle.

M
 
1. Not likely especially if you don't have experience building and shooting accurized Ars. Christensen makes garbage guns just say no.

2. Both are way overkill for 1k shooting. 6.5cm , 6 cm or 6 dasher/br/gt are much better suited for shooting inside 1k without killing your barrel or wallet.

3. .308 has long barrel life but shitty ballistics and heavy recoil compared to those mentioned above. 7prc and 300prc are way more and you will be replacing barrels every 1000 rounds if lucky. 308 should last 5k depending on how hard you run them.

Something like a gap per, mpa pmr ( with discount code) or even a tikka tac a1 would be a good start. You could also grab a barreled action and drop in a bravo chassis and keep it around 2200. Could put together a rifle on the cheap as well. It's not hard.
Do you mind me asking what makes Christensens bad guns?
 
They are known turds. Long track record of making shitty guns. Google is your friend. I cant think of one person I ever met who has owned a Christensen who has anything good to say about them, other than they are light.

Bergera aren't great either. Lots of issues with them, from having to bed the rail to bolt handles breaking off. Tikka is a much better product, even with its shortcomings.

You should really be looking at a MPA gun or a GAP PPR. Thats a whole lot of gun for the money and giving very little up to the full blown customs.
 
  • Like
Reactions: nrspence
They are known turds. Long track record of making shitty guns. Google is your friend. I cant think of one person I ever met who has owned a Christensen who has anything good to say about them, other than they are light.

Bergera aren't great either. Lots of issues with them, from having to bed the rail to bolt handles breaking off. Tikka is a much better product, even with its shortcomings.

You should really be looking at a MPA gun or a GAP PPR. Thats a whole lot of gun for the money and giving very little up to the full blown customs.
I’m not having much luck finding those, could you send a couple links?
 
I’m not having much luck finding those, could you send a couple links?
Try the search function........


Or google:

and 50000 more hits