Newby looking to hand load help.

[Snip-er]

So I just bought my first ever rifle. It' in .308 and i will be shooting precision FOR FUN and long distance. I'm possibly looking to hand load to save money to shoot more. I do have a very limited budget and don' have a clue how to start or what I need.

Can I just get an idea on how much it will cost and get an idea on what I would need to get started for hand loading? If u can tell me what equipment I would exactly need to get started with a low budget. I know there's YouTube, but is there one direct video that can teach me how to properly hand load?

I tired a search, but maybe I didn't do it right what I was looking for.

sorry if this has been asked a million times. Appreciate the help for the new guy.

 

[J!m]

I know I've posted a bunch on hand loading but what inevitably happens, is you learn that you can tighten your groups with a load tailored to your rifle. That often ends up costing more than store-bought ammo. Particularly in .308 caliber.

I suggest you budget for ammo, such as the Federal Gold Medal Match, and get a case of it. Members sell it on here periodically for a very good price.

Shoot that case, and really hone your fundamentals. You should shoot one minute groups with a half-decent rifle and that ammo.

THEN think about hand loading, with an eye on economy (which honestly isn't much, if you value your time) or accuracy, which ends up costing more than store-bought (but not always).

 

[padom]

I know I've posted a bunch on hand loading but what inevitably happens, is you learn that you can tighten your groups with a load tailored to your rifle. That often ends up costing more than store-bought ammo. Particularly in .308 caliber.

I suggest you budget for ammo, such as the Federal Gold Medal Match, and get a case of it. Members sell it on here periodically for a very good price.

Shoot that case, and really hone your fundamentals. You should shoot one minute groups with a half-decent rifle and that ammo.

THEN think about hand loading, with an eye on economy (which honestly isn't much, if you value your time) or accuracy, which ends up costing more than store-bought (but not always).

If your match grade handloads are costing more than store bought ammo then your doing something wrong. A few examples:

77smk 5.56 Handloads

77smk - $0.24
23.6g 8208XBR - $0.07
205M - $0.03
1xLC - $0.06

Total 1st Firing - $0.40 per round
Total Rest of Firings - $0.33 per round

A box of 20rds cost you $8.00 per box or $6.60 per box to make after the first firing and will be more accurate than any factory match ammo you buy if you perform proper load workup for your rifle.
Comparison, a 20rd box of Federal Gold Medal Match 77smk ammo costs $22.49 or $1.12/rd plus shipping or 200rd box costs you $1.00/per round plus shipping.


140 ELD-M 6.5cm Match Loads

140 ELD-M - $0.30
42g H4350 - $0.13
210M - $0.03
Hornady Brass - $0.46

Total 1st Firing - $0.92 per round
Total Rest of Firings - $0.46 per round


A box of 20rds cost you $18.40 per box or $9.20 per box to make after the first firing and will be more accurate than any factory match ammo you buy if you perform proper load workup for your rifle.
Comparison, a 20rd box of Hornady 140 ELD Match ammo costs $28.99 or $1.45/rd plus shipping or 200rd box costs $251 or $1.26/per round.

 

[Snip-er]

I know I've posted a bunch on hand loading but what inevitably happens, is you learn that you can tighten your groups with a load tailored to your rifle. That often ends up costing more than store-bought ammo. Particularly in .308 caliber.

I suggest you budget for ammo, such as the Federal Gold Medal Match, and get a case of it. Members sell it on here periodically for a very good price.

Shoot that case, and really hone your fundamentals. You should shoot one minute groups with a half-decent rifle and that ammo.

THEN think about hand loading, with an eye on economy (which honestly isn't much, if you value your time) or accuracy, which ends up costing more than store-bought (but not always).

I was thinking the same thing as what you posted here, but everyone talks about how much money you save by reloading. But, I definitely value my time as I do work long hours. I appreciate your view on this. Appreciate it.

By the way, what grain ammo is that you are talking about with the Federal Gold Medal Match?

 

[Snip-er]

If your match grade handloads are costing more than store bought ammo then your doing something wrong. A few examples:

77smk 5.56 Handloads

77smk - $0.24
23.6g 8208XBR - $0.07
205M - $0.03
1xLC - $0.06

Total 1st Firing - $0.40 per round
Total Rest of Firings - $0.33 per round

A box of 20rds cost you $8.00 per box or $6.60 per box to make after the first firing and will be more accurate than any factory match ammo you buy if you perform proper load workup for your rifle.
Comparison, a 20rd box of Federal Gold Medal Match 77smk ammo costs $22.49 or $1.12/rd plus shipping or 200rd box costs you $1.00/per round plus shipping.


140 ELD-M 6.5cm Match Loads

140 ELD-M - $0.30
42g H4350 - $0.13
210M - $0.03
Hornady Brass - $0.46

Total 1st Firing - $0.92 per round
Total Rest of Firings - $0.46 per round


A box of 20rds cost you $18.40 per box or $9.20 per box to make after the first firing and will be more accurate than any factory match ammo you buy if you perform proper load workup for your rifle.
Comparison, a 20rd box of Hornady 140 ELD Match ammo costs $28.99 or $1.45/rd plus shipping or 200rd box costs $251 or $1.26/per round.

Padom, I like what your showing me here. So here's the question, I'm still looking for how much I'm looking at to get started with a low budget set up. And then once I invest in that, how long till I recoup what I spent on everything to get started and even break even? I will admit I am just getting into long distance target shooting. I don't hunt, and I will get out as much as I can to shoot, but I honestly don't know how often that will be. So I guess I have to weigh the two and see which way is the way to go. I would love to learn how to reload as I have hand guns I wouldn't mind reloading for as well. Again, with that said, I need to have an idea on what I'm looking at with equipment and all to get started. Thanks for your input. I do like what I see

 

[padom]

There is a thread already going on in the reloading section from another newbie. I've listed what would get you into the game along with others. Check it out

 

[Snip-er]

There is a thread already going on in the reloading section from another newbie. I've listed what would get you into the game along with others. Check it out

Thank you, I will check out.

 

[Sheldon N]

Reloading will not save you money. It will cause you to spend more money, because you will shoot more, then buy more reloading tools to help speed up your reloading processes, which will make it easier for you to load more rounds, so you will shoot more, which means more time reloading even though you're now more efficient at it. A vicious cycle.

Just buy a bunch of FGMM, it's not too spendy.

 

[Snip-er]

Reloading will not save you money. It will cause you to spend more money, because you will shoot more, then buy more reloading tools to help speed up your reloading processes, which will make it easier for you to load more rounds, so you will shoot more, which means more time reloading even though you're now more efficient at it. A vicious cycle.

Just buy a bunch of FGMM, it's not too spendy.

lol thanks Sheldon

 

[steve123]

LOL, Sheldon!

The sooner you start reloading the sooner you start saving. I started when I was 14 and I'm 57 now. It's the amortizing of the equipment over time that pays off. I probably saved enough money's worth over the years to buy a car.

Plus if a dry up of ammo happens and you don't have a bunch on hand....When the obummer scare happened I had enough components on hand to last for years, good thing I did too!

Buy used reloading stuff.... A friend gave me a old Lee press, I use it to punch primers out and it would work for resizing, but my point is you can get this stuff cheap.

15-20 years ago when 223 ammo was dirt cheap I'd buy 500 packs and save the brass, I kept it in separated so the brass was all the same type. When the aforementioned shortage happened I reloaded it with components on hand. No way I'd pay the price these days for match ammo when I can reload for half or less.

But if you have more money than time.... I remember when Ted Nugent bought 44mag by the pallet!!!

 

[Supersubes]

LOL, Sheldon!

The sooner you start reloading the sooner you start saving. I started when I was 14 and I'm 57 now. It's the amortizing of the equipment over time that pays off. I probably saved enough money's worth over the years to buy a car.

Plus if a dry up of ammo happens and you don't have a bunch on hand....When the obummer scare happened I had enough components on hand to last for years, good thing I did too!

Buy used reloading stuff.... A friend gave me a old Lee press, I use it to punch primers out and it would work for resizing, but my point is you can get this stuff cheap.

15-20 years ago when 223 ammo was dirt cheap I'd buy 500 packs and save the brass, I kept it in separated so the brass was all the same type. When the aforementioned shortage happened I reloaded it with components on hand. No way I'd pay the price these days for match ammo when I can reload for half or less.

But if you have more money than time.... I remember when Ted Nugent bought 44mag by the pallet!!!

Just one car? Nah, probably a few cars with as much as you seem to shoot!

 

[L.R.Novice]

By the way, what grain ammo is that you are talking about with the Federal Gold Medal Match?

Federal Gold Medal Match comes loaded with 168 and 175 grain sierra Match kings. It used to be the gold standard and cost about $1.50 a round. Now there are lots of other options. It is still very good and you can pick it up for almost half. Keep an eye out at Palmetto State Armory for good sales on it.

 

[steve123]

Just one car? Nah, probably a few cars with as much as you seem to shoot!

Ha, sometimes I wonder about that, and to think how much ammo a professional 3 gun shooter shoots during his career!!! Or most professional shooters I suppose. Well it does help when someone like them has a sponsorship!

Me, nah, I went through fazes where I didn't shoot firearms all that much like when the kids were little dinkers, and to support the family I sold every gun I had when work was slow one winter". About 10 years after that most of my guns got stolen, arggg.
I got into PCP airguns about 20 years ago which saved a pile of money I would have no doubt spent on ammo, but still, there was a bunch of powder burning happening at times too.

Yuh know, I did try to have fun and sending projectiles downrange is that!!!

Sheesh, imagine if I had a dollar for every word I write here on the Hide, lol. That would be 3-4 cars, lol.

 

[J!m]

If your match grade handloads are costing more than store bought ammo then your doing something wrong. A few examples:

77smk 5.56 Handloads

77smk - $0.24
23.6g 8208XBR - $0.07
205M - $0.03
1xLC - $0.06

Total 1st Firing - $0.40 per round
Total Rest of Firings - $0.33 per round

A box of 20rds cost you $8.00 per box or $6.60 per box to make after the first firing and will be more accurate than any factory match ammo you buy if you perform proper load workup for your rifle.
Comparison, a 20rd box of Federal Gold Medal Match 77smk ammo costs $22.49 or $1.12/rd plus shipping or 200rd box costs you $1.00/per round plus shipping.


140 ELD-M 6.5cm Match Loads

140 ELD-M - $0.30
42g H4350 - $0.13
210M - $0.03
Hornady Brass - $0.46

Total 1st Firing - $0.92 per round
Total Rest of Firings - $0.46 per round


A box of 20rds cost you $18.40 per box or $9.20 per box to make after the first firing and will be more accurate than any factory match ammo you buy if you perform proper load workup for your rifle.
Comparison, a 20rd box of Hornady 140 ELD Match ammo costs $28.99 or $1.45/rd plus shipping or 200rd box costs $251 or $1.26/per round.

He (and I) are talking .308 rounds... I have no data on .223 or 6.5 creedmore. No desire to load them either. .30-30 would be the other I might consider for hand load, but due to low volume, I probably won't do that either.

Look, I'm second generation hand-loader. And it was always supposed to be less. As I said, if you have zero value on your time, it can be less expensive. But if you value your time, it generally is not, because the devil is in the details, and details take time. Then there is the equipment depreciation which everyone conveniently forgets. And, as the quest for "greater accuracy" continues, you invest more in better/different dies, more precise (every piece of equipment) etc. It's a rabbit hole. Fun, if you know what you are in for and willing to make the time sacrifices of time and money to truly optimize it. I was fortunate and found a sweet round for my last rifle that was a min charge of Varget and a light match bullet (155gr I think but not certain as it's all packed at the moment). But typically, you are in the middle to top of the load range, using a consistent (which usually means expensive) powder and match projectiles.

And, I will say that loading 12-ga for trap on a 50-odd year old MEC is less expensive than buying new AA's, and no round work-up. 700-X, 7-1/2 shot, box-o-primers and spend a rainy evening cranking them out.

This is my advice based on my experience. The internet has driven down the price of components, but it has also driven down the price of loaded ammo, so I think the same formula still holds true.

 

[J!m]

I was thinking the same thing as what you posted here, but everyone talks about how much money you save by reloading. But, I definitely value my time as I do work long hours. I appreciate your view on this. Appreciate it.

By the way, what grain ammo is that you are talking about with the Federal Gold Medal Match?

I'd start with a box of each and see what your rifle prefers. Everyone likes to shoot three-round "groups" but I consider a group to be ten rounds. Let it heat up as that can affect the groupings and a tight three round group may become a wide ten-round one and vice-versa.

 

[padom]

He (and I) are talking .308 rounds... I have no data on .223 or 6.5 creedmore. No desire to load them either. .30-30 would be the other I might consider for hand load, but due to low volume, I probably won't do that either.

Look, I'm second generation hand-loader. And it was always supposed to be less. As I said, if you have zero value on your time, it can be less expensive. But if you value your time, it generally is not, because the devil is in the details, and details take time. Then there is the equipment depreciation which everyone conveniently forgets. And, as the quest for "greater accuracy" continues, you invest more in better/different dies, more precise (every piece of equipment) etc. It's a rabbit hole. Fun, if you know what you are in for and willing to make the time sacrifices of time and money to truly optimize it. I was fortunate and found a sweet round for my last rifle that was a min charge of Varget and a light match bullet (155gr I think but not certain as it's all packed at the moment). But typically, you are in the middle to top of the load range, using a consistent (which usually means expensive) powder and match projectiles.

And, I will say that loading 12-ga for trap on a 50-odd year old MEC is less expensive than buying new AA's, and no round work-up. 700-X, 7-1/2 shot, box-o-primers and spend a rainy evening cranking them out.

This is my advice based on my experience. The internet has driven down the price of components, but it has also driven down the price of loaded ammo, so I think the same formula still holds true.

Its the same bud, no matter 308 or some other caliber. Here you go in case you havent ever added it up.. Ill give you 308 with LC which is better and will last many more firings than the soft Federal brass that FGMM uses.


308 LC Handloads

178ELDM - $0.30
41.8g 4064 - $0.13
205M - $0.03
1xLC - $0.15

Total 1st Firing - $0.61 per round
Total Rest of Firings - $0.46 per round

A box of 20rds cost you $12.20 per box or $9.20 per box to make after the first firing.
Comparison, a 20rd box of Federal GMM 175 ammo costs $18.95 or $0.95/rd plus shipping or 200rd box costs $175 or $0.87/per round plus shipping..


Now, you want to get into putting a price on your time to factor into the cost. The equipment.. We are talking about ammo that you are making tailored for your rifle. Ammo that will be more accurate (if you know what your doing) than any factory ammo in your rifle. Also, whats your time worth? $25/hr, $50/hr, $100/hr, $250/hr??? Everyone is different. But I dont know anyone factoring that into their price per round cost....

You want to factor in equipment... How many calibers are you reloading for? 1? 5? If your only reloading one caliber, say 308 you are saving $10 per box of ammo based off the above numbers, that means you would need to make 100 boxes of ammo or 2000rds to recoup a $1000 investment on a reloading setup. Thats also a really good reloading setup number for a beginner. Most beginners will spend way less than that but $1000 will get you a solid setup with quality stuff that will make very accurate ammo for a long time. A guy getting into shooting, he would probably make those 2000rds in 2 years if he really is shooting and practicing precision shooting.


Now, I agree with some comments in this thread. Someone on the fence, wants to shoot sometimes but doesnt know when or how often. Isnt all in, just bought their first rifle. Then yes, it is best they buy factory ammo when they can find it on sale and shoot. Those of us with the bug that shoot a shit ton of rounds didnt get into reloading to save money. We got into reloading for the most accurate ammo for our rifles and to shoot more for the same amount of money. I have well over $10,000 into my reloading room. Doesnt mean you need to.

 

[padom]

I'd start with a box of each and see what your rifle prefers. Everyone likes to shoot three-round "groups" but I consider a group to be ten rounds. Let it heat up as that can affect the groupings and a tight three round group may become a wide ten-round one and vice-versa.

Here we go with this 10 round group bullshit. Around here we consider accuracy by 5x5 or 6x5. 10rd groups bring the shooter into the mix and wont tell you the true potential of a round or barrel.

 

[Xander3Zero]

As a relatively new precision shooter (2+ years) and a new reloader (1 year) I can tell you that in my experience I haven't saved a dime by reloading. I started with reloading 308 and have probably reloaded about 800 rounds so far. If I saved roughly $0.50 per round over buying factory, that puts my savings at about 400 bucks. I've definitely invested more than 400 into reloading equipment and exponentially more into the time that I've spent reloading, researching, fine tuning my processes, etc etc. Sure if I continue to reload for years I will eventually break even and then start "profiting" but my point is that as a new shooter your only kidding yourself if you think you will be saving loads of money right off the bat.

Now that I reload, I couldn't see myself going back to shooting just factory ammo so it is more of a hobby and passion than just a means to save a little cash. For every 1-2 hours I spend shooting at the range I spend much more time on the forums researching or dialing in my hand loads and stuff like that. If you like the idea of spending time on reloading as a hobby, then you should definitely get into it without question! It is enjoyable and will make you appreciate shooting much more. It is also likely that if you spend ~$300 on some basic reloading gear, you will quickly be striving for better equipment to improve your hand loads, or even simply because you want to try out new/better equipment.

My point: if you find that you like shooting and you don't see yourself dropping the hobby anytime soon, it is worth reloading, potential cost savings aside. Given that you are truly new to shooting and you just got your first rifle, I would recommend buying some quality 308 ammo (FGMM 168/175 or similar) and getting familiar with your rifle. You want to develop general shooting fundamentals before really diving head first into reloading. I think it would be difficult to thoroughly appreciate and take advantage of reloading if you are struggling to put up consistent 1" groups at 100 yards with factory match ammo.

 

[DrainTheSwamp]

^^^ this
it’s a hobby and a passion for me. I load more ammo and shoot more now than I did before and I feel my skill level has certainly climbed since starting to roll my own. I’ve got way more trigger time than most of my friends who don’t reload cuz they don’t wanna burn up that 30$ box of ammo. I don’t care cuz I can go make more. Trigger time costs money. Make the most out of each shooting session and record data. I learned to invite friends with me who don’t reload so I can take their brass!