Since you paid your invoice have you heard anything else from them? I got notification Friday night late. Talked to my FFL Monday morning and paid the invoice then and sent the FFL info. Just wondering if they confirmed anything after you paid.
- Thread starter hereinaz
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Since you paid your invoice have you heard anything else from them? I got notification Friday night late. Talked to my FFL Monday morning and paid the invoice then and sent the FFL info. Just wondering if they confirmed anything after you paid.
No, did the same as you. Got the invoice Friday, sent the FFL and paid on Sunday. I'm thinking we're probably at the front of the next batch and they're getting their ducks in a row before they ship. I got excited that I might have it in hand this weekend once I saw the invoice, but realistically it could still be next week.
it is quite a bit bigger. really liking it from initial fondling though.
Mine is at the FFL doing the 10 day wait. Unfortunately due to a schedule mismatch it's actually 15 days before I can pick up.
At home everything is waiting on it.
I think I'm going to assemble it at the FFL to show them how it goes together.
At home everything is waiting on it.
I think I'm going to assemble it at the FFL to show them how it goes together.
If anyone is looking for a Nucleus package, I have one in the classifieds. It's a cut rifled 6mm creed, shouldered barrel from PVA. New action and barrel. Need to sell it cause I'm building a house and could use the extra funds. Just thought I'd mention it here as well ..
I was just told by Justin at ARC that he just invoiced order #2898. I called to see about adding an extra bolt head to my order. I had bought-out somebody else's preorder and Barloc, but ARC had not yet updated the information. My order is #2900, so he said it's a good thing I called when I did, because he just invoiced up to 2 numbers before mine, and they would have invoiced the original buyer!
Pretty accurate. I was order #2874 and just completed my payment. Short action, 308 bf for those interested.
Order #2854 shipping notification and tracking number today.
If you ordered a barloc or anything extra with your preorder you get charged some shipping at the time of preorder. Then they charge you the difference of $35 when it ships. Thats how it worked for me having my action and barloc to WV.
yeah i thought that at first too. I actually had three shipping chrages. But once i thought about it, it made sense since the previous payments are credited to the final invoice the only real shipping charge is the one listed on the final invoice.
Ah, thanks for the answer. What Go/No go guage is everyone using? Also, where do I buy action screws to fit the action into stocks.
I got invoiced this evening for order #2900.
I believe the Nucleus uses 1/4"-28 screws like the Remington 700. If there is a Fastenal near you, that's a good place to find them in whatever length is needed. I'll probably try to find some that are of a strong grade. I don't know that it is necessary, but it makes me feel better.
I will be using a Forster go gauge from Northland Shooters Supply (I'm getting 2 Criterion savage small shank barrels for the Nucleus from there). The gauge is $28.50, and you can get away with only using a go gauge. You just put a piece of scotch-style tape on the back end of the gauge and it becomes a No-Go. The tape is about .003" thick, and on most cartridges there's a tolerance of .010", so if the bolt will close on the bare gauge but not on the gauge+tape, you are good to go.
I believe the Nucleus uses 1/4"-28 screws like the Remington 700. If there is a Fastenal near you, that's a good place to find them in whatever length is needed. I'll probably try to find some that are of a strong grade. I don't know that it is necessary, but it makes me feel better.
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I'm not an engineer or a metals guy so take it for what you paid for it, but I'd be careful going to a screw harder than the receiver.
MPA and Manners both came with action screws.
Received tracking on a SA lefty.
For those of you receiving invoices, I was about 1 week from payment to shipping, not long.
For those of you receiving invoices, I was about 1 week from payment to shipping, not long.
Steel bolts in aluminum threads are done all the time and the steel bolt is much harder. It's not the greatest but with proper torque it can work.
With a steel bolt in a steel receiver, the relative hardness is going to be much closer because the receiver is heat treated and bolts are not heat treated so much that they loose all ductility.
Bottom line, a hardened action screw won't hurt at all.
I have my Nucleus in a Magpul Pro 700 Chassis. With both ARC mags and magpul mags I can insert the mag too high where the bolt hits the feed lips. It is too high where shaving a bit off the feed lips will help. Opening the feed lips did not help either. This isnt a problem of not being able to get the mag low enough. The mag latch is low enough to function properly. When pulled down it runs fine. It is just when there is upward pressure on the mag that it obstructs the bolt. Even being ran into a bag on a barricade was binding it up.
I am just curious if there are others experiencing this with other chassis or stocks?
I have seen the Vector shit show thread. That was handled poorly in my opinion. I am not trying to make the same deal at all. I am happy with the action and the feel of the chassis. I am just trying to learn if it is a chassis issue, although I cant see why right now without their being a mag stop on in it. I would lean towards yes though since nobody has reported any problems like it.
I am just curious if there are others experiencing this with other chassis or stocks?
I have seen the Vector shit show thread. That was handled poorly in my opinion. I am not trying to make the same deal at all. I am happy with the action and the feel of the chassis. I am just trying to learn if it is a chassis issue, although I cant see why right now without their being a mag stop on in it. I would lean towards yes though since nobody has reported any problems like it.
My
My nucleus is in a Mcrees chassis. I've run it in 3 matches and off all sorts of barricades. I have not had any binding issues sitting the rifle on the mag, or using the mag as a barricade stop.
I would think it's a chassis issue more than an action issue.
Nuk
My nucleus is in a Mcrees chassis. I've run it in 3 matches and off all sorts of barricades. I have not had any binding issues sitting the rifle on the mag, or using the mag as a barricade stop.
I would think it's a chassis issue more than an action issue.
No idea what happened with that post. I can't seem to edit it either
A couple important corrections here:
MOST catridges are 0.004 from GO to NOGO
Field is typically GO+0.006
The 50BMG in a machine gun is 12 IIRC
I can't think of anything that's 0.010"
Also, scotch tape is normally about 0.0015" per ply
Masking tape is 2
Blue Painters tape is 2-2.5 depending on type and brand
You can certainly do what you like but before quoting numbers please be sure you know what you're listing. Other people may inadvertently use them thinking they're doing something right and they're really out of spec.
Typically for home use get a pair from the same manufacturer, then after that it doesn't matter because you're not likely to be using it day in and day out nor are you using it to match the company that ground the reamer.
If you're just setting a barrel nut barrel onto a Nucleus you really only need a GO, the NOGO is there for peace of mind.
When I used barrel nuts I always set them dead balls on GO and used new brass. New brass is typically 1-3 thousandths undersize so when I set it to headspace snugly on GO the new brass grew minimally and I got excellent life out of it.
I appreciate that you are trying to make sure that good information is being shared. I'll take any constructive criticism, because I try to be very careful to not spread misinformation and want to know when I'm wrong. That's why I did my homework before making that post.
Check out SAAMI's official publication on chamber dimensions here. In the chamber drawings, you are looking for an x inside of a circle next to a dimension. The legend says that this denotes a headspace dimention. These are the cartridges I checked:
7.62x39
6.5 Creedmoor
223 Remington
308 Winchester
6.8mm Remington SPC
270 Winchester
30-06 Springfield
Every one of those has a tolerance of exactly .010".
Again, I appreciate you trying to make sure my information is accurate, and I'll do the same for you and hopefully we'll both be better for it. Pleased to make your acquaintance bohem!
You are sort of correct. What you are referring to is the dimension of the gauges. Manufacturers typically make the GO gauge the same length as SAAMI's minimum, and the NO-GO .004" longer than the minimum. That doesn't mean that .004 is the SAAMI tolerance, it just means that it's what the gauge manufacturer chose in order to keep customers well away from the danger zone and keep themselves out of court.
Check out SAAMI's official publication on chamber dimensions here. In the chamber drawings, you are looking for an x inside of a circle next to a dimension. The legend says that this denotes a headspace dimention. These are the cartridges I checked:
7.62x39
6.5 Creedmoor
223 Remington
308 Winchester
6.8mm Remington SPC
270 Winchester
30-06 Springfield
Every one of those has a tolerance of exactly .010".
I'll admit, I didn't mic a piece of tape right before posting that, but I have before and memory told me it was about .002" (but this will vary by brand). So I did a little bit of google-fu and came up with a range of .0015-.003, and posted "about .003" to err on the side of safety. If someone puts tape on their gauge expecting it to be .003" and it's .0015", then that means they are .0015" farther from having too much headspace.
Again, I appreciate you trying to make sure my information is accurate, and I'll do the same for you and hopefully we'll both be better for it. Pleased to make your acquaintance bohem!
Thanks for the reply. I wish I could come with another word other than issue and problem as I do not want to imply there is something wrong with the Nucleus.
Do you know who you're arguing with? Haha
Glad to read your post, as I am just a few after you. Looking forward to getting mine, too, but I have not been contacted yet.
Shouldn't be long for you now I'd expect. Mine was a similar number and I received my invoice yesterday too.
Field gauges are for making sure a clapped out semi-auto isn't going to blow up imediately. You shouldn't need one for a bolt action or any gun you own unless it's a belt fed machine gun like a 1919 where things are a bit different
I got to pick up my threaded barrel Barloc today.
The receiver is still in the waiting period. Doesn't California realize I've been waiting since January?
Any way, the Barloc is cool but the Savage take-off barrel I brought to the FFL to try it on had some pretty grungy threads so the barrel nut would not go on all the way.
After I got home, a little squirt of WD-40 and a steel bristle brush had the threads nice and clean and the barrel nut threaded all the way to the end of the threads.
Stupid me, I should have cleaned it before going to my FFL.
It looks nice on the barrel but my receiver is at the FFL so I can't try that out.
I wound up putting on my Area 419 thread protector but with the stack of barrel nut, tensioner and recoil lug with the recessed threads of the thread protector, I've only got about 1-2 threads holding it together.
I think PVA might begin selling a Nucleus Barloc specific thread protector for people with switch barrel setups. Hopefully it will bottom out just shy of the barrel nut or shouldered Barloc cone piece so everything will be compact, protected and hopefully prevent the barrel nut from rotating away from it's previous headspace position.
The rest of the action looked good. I tried to figure out the bolt release but couldn't get it to turn, I must be doing something wrong.
The bolt seemed to have some dark grease on it. It sounds like not cleaning it might lead to light primer strikes. I'll be sure to clean that out and re-lube (very lightly).
The bolt lift seemed very reasonable but I imagine it will get lighter and smoother after it's been run a few hundred or thousand times. I plan to do a bunch of dry fire...
I got to pick up my threaded barrel Barloc today.
The receiver is still in the waiting period. Doesn't California realize I've been waiting since January?
Any way, the Barloc is cool but the Savage take-off barrel I brought to the FFL to try it on had some pretty grungy threads so the barrel nut would not go on all the way.
After I got home, a little squirt of WD-40 and a steel bristle brush had the threads nice and clean and the barrel nut threaded all the way to the end of the threads.
Stupid me, I should have cleaned it before going to my FFL.
It looks nice on the barrel but my receiver is at the FFL so I can't try that out.
I wound up putting on my Area 419 thread protector but with the stack of barrel nut, tensioner and recoil lug with the recessed threads of the thread protector, I've only got about 1-2 threads holding it together.
I think PVA might begin selling a Nucleus Barloc specific thread protector for people with switch barrel setups. Hopefully it will bottom out just shy of the barrel nut or shouldered Barloc cone piece so everything will be compact, protected and hopefully prevent the barrel nut from rotating away from it's previous headspace position.
The rest of the action looked good. I tried to figure out the bolt release but couldn't get it to turn, I must be doing something wrong.
The bolt seemed to have some dark grease on it. It sounds like not cleaning it might lead to light primer strikes. I'll be sure to clean that out and re-lube (very lightly).
The bolt lift seemed very reasonable but I imagine it will get lighter and smoother after it's been run a few hundred or thousand times. I plan to do a bunch of dry fire...
Badass! Just got back a few hours ago from a friends Elk hunt. Couldn’t wait to see some new Nucleus stuff.
Couldn't have said it better myself.
On the bolt release, I think it will only turn once you've retracted the bolt to the rear. I think you have to do that first to get the relief in the bolt assembly lined up with the bolt release. Otherwise the bolt release has nowhere to go.
I don't have mine yet either, so I'm guessing, based off of what I've seen and heard so far.
The bolt release does only function when bolt is pulled to the rear most position. I have s/n 251 and 252 and they are not that hard to turn like reports were with the earliest actions.
I thought that was going to be the case, but I can have my bolt in battery, turn the bolt stop the the rear, and take my bolt out.
Then you have an issue
Still in the stupid California 10 day wait but last night I tried my Nucleus Barloc recoil lug in my MPA hybrid chassis and identified an issue I will need to take care of, the Luglock feature bottoms out before it wedges against the lug.
I emailed MPA about it so they know there is an issue but I think I'm going to have to make a new Luglock barrel about 0.450" in diameter to get it actually wedging.
I hope that's the worst of the issues.
I emailed MPA about it so they know there is an issue but I think I'm going to have to make a new Luglock barrel about 0.450" in diameter to get it actually wedging.
I hope that's the worst of the issues.
The lug lock is a solution looking for an issue, so unless you're really bored, probably not worth it.
The only thing I’m curious about is that if the recoil lug is under tension as soon as you unscrew the barrel it might want to shift. I’m not sure if that would happen, or if it would be an issue at all.
If everything is square (I expect the receiver to be perfect in this respect), the recoil lug will be clamped but not under any tension, the Luglock should hold the recoil lug flush against the receiver face and the slotted scope rail should keep it from rotating.
I just heard from MPA, they don't make Luglock barrels for recoil lugs less than 0.200". I guess it's DIY if you have a standard Remington 700 thickness recoil lug.
So, nothing wrong with a Nucleus but if you expect it to work in an MPA chassis, you need to do a bit of machining work because ARC made it too Remington 700 compatible.
I just heard from MPA, they don't make Luglock barrels for recoil lugs less than 0.200". I guess it's DIY if you have a standard Remington 700 thickness recoil lug.
So, nothing wrong with a Nucleus but if you expect it to work in an MPA chassis, you need to do a bit of machining work because ARC made it too Remington 700 compatible.
I am the last that I am aware of. #2900. That was Thursday evening.
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