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Official (DTA) SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread

Well got to finally get to run my DTA Hard yesterday. I feel very at home with it and now going to part ways with my other conventional rifle. I’ve had for 19 yrs.The only upgrades are the rails to aluminum and possibly a wider bipod foot print.

Any spare parts should I have in the bag for the A1
 
I do have a spare trigger pack and bolt pins/springs/extractor but I have been through a bunch of rounds and shot out a couple barrels on one chassis with no issues. I doubt you'll ever need any spare parts.
 
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There is a Desert Tech section with tons of good info on the SRS under “resources”, but there’s no real way for someone new to know about it except by chance.


Most of the repetitive questions can be answered there. If you want to truly help someone with basic questions that have been answered many times before, refer them to that. It’s a pretty damn good compilation of information.


Thanks for the re-posting the link I never have seen it before.
 
Ok, I need some help. Every time I change barrels, I lose zero. My E-S Tactical barrel moves 1-1.5 MOA @ 100 yards each time. Up, down, right, left. I un-tension the bolts nearest the muzzle first to furthest from the muzzle and re-torque nearest to furthest. When I insert the barrel into the chassis, I turn the barrel counter clockwise seating it before closing the bolt.

My Short Action Customs barrel seems to be much better and I do it exactly the same.

The only thing I don’t do is use the barrel lock on the ES-Tactical barrel.

Anyone want to offer any advice? I’ll take it
 
Ok, I need some help. Every time I change barrels, I lose zero. My E-S Tactical barrel moves 1-1.5 MOA @ 100 yards each time. Up, down, right, left. I un-tension the bolts nearest the muzzle first to furthest from the muzzle and re-torque nearest to furthest. When I insert the barrel into the chassis, I turn the barrel counter clockwise seating it before closing the bolt.

My Short Action Customs barrel seems to be much better and I do it exactly the same.

The only thing I don’t do is use the barrel lock on the ES-Tactical barrel.

Anyone want to offer any advice? I’ll take it
I didn't notice any shift with mine yet. I'll have to do more testing.
 
Ok, I need some help. Every time I change barrels, I lose zero. My E-S Tactical barrel moves 1-1.5 MOA @ 100 yards each time. Up, down, right, left. I un-tension the bolts nearest the muzzle first to furthest from the muzzle and re-torque nearest to furthest. When I insert the barrel into the chassis, I turn the barrel counter clockwise seating it before closing the bolt.

My Short Action Customs barrel seems to be much better and I do it exactly the same.

The only thing I don’t do is use the barrel lock on the ES-Tactical barrel.

Anyone want to offer any advice? I’ll take it

Are you shooting on big temperature shift days and with hand loads or Factory ammo? Prone each time or from a bench each time?
 
New barrel or new issue that just started? I never use the barrel lock. Hold chassis vertical, drop barrel straight in, lock bolt, torque from muzzle to stock. I am yet to have an issue.
New A2 chassis and new barrels. Have had this problem from the beginning. Chassis is vertical during the barrel change.
Are you shooting on big temperature shift days and with hand loads or Factory ammo? Prone each time or from a bench each time?
I have shot in situations with both swings and stable. I am always using factory ammo. I have shot from both prone and bench With no discernible difference in results.
 
Desert Tech Data Dump... 2nd attempt

DESERT TECH OFFICIAL SITE

Also, scroll to bottom of page and select month/year to read more from the archives


RETAILERS and/or CUSTOM BARRELS


PROOF RESEARCH CARBON FIBER BARRELS

MISC PARTS

BOLT KNOBS ・look for Bergara or CZ Style - metric thread, M6x1.0
Also, Search “Snipe Custom Arms“​

SINGLE SHOT SLED

CHASSIS PLATE

ARCA RAILS - SRS A1
MLOK Specific – shouldn't be hard to find others with a search​

SRS TRIGGER JOB

SRS DIFFERENCES

SRS GETS BRUTALIZED

TOOLS

Barrel Extension Wrench - Tenon thread pitch 1 1/16 -16

Fore-End Removal Tool

Fore-End Upgrade Kit Procedure

BORE GUIDE (other)

ADJUSTABLE BUTT PAD

CHEEK RISER PADS

GRIP STUFF

HANDGUARD INSULATOR

MAGAZINE HOLSTER

Case Club Case for SRS

AMAZON

EBAY

MAGNETOSPEED ADAPTOR

FRONT TRIPOD

BULLET QUIVERS

NV Clip on adaptor

SCOPE MOUNTS – seen in this forum (other) - 1.5" centerline height preferred lowest for 56mm
Other Brands 0-40MOA
70 MOA
35mm diameter
35mm

YOUTUBE VIDEOS

SOCIAL MEDIA PAGES

FDE Color

SEE ATTACHED FILES FOR PDFs:
  • Desert Tech SRS A1 Users Manual
  • Stock bolt set placement
  • Primal Rights Trigger Job
  • Forearm Upgrade Procedure

Let me know if there's anything that should be added or removed...

bump
 
We had the RRS spec ARCA/Dovetail rails show up last week for the SRS A2 and Covert A2 rifles.

We have full length rails for both the SRS A2 and Covert A2 chassis. These rails go from the muzzle end of the hand guard back to the trigger guard. We also have a short rail that is 5" long and goes from the trigger guard to the first couple inches of the hand guard. The short rail will mount on with the SRS A2 or Covert A2.

https://www.specialpurposerifles.com/desert-tech/desert-tech-a2-rrs-arca-rails

View attachment 7229612
That's one good looking rig there!
 
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New barrel or new issue that just started? I never use the barrel lock. Hold chassis vertical, drop barrel straight in, lock bolt, torque from muzzle to stock. I am yet to have an issue.
Same as I do , 5 barrels no issues
 

An addition to the ARCA rails. Special Purpose Rifles worked with Sawtooth rifles to make a 1.5 RRS rail for the SRS-A2/Covert M-LOK hand guard that extends all the back to the trigger guard using the integrated tripod mount in the chassis. Link to website below
 
Literally drop it in , twist left to right to feel it seated in the slot , close the bolt , and torque with 70" seekonk top to bottom
 
Why would the barrel rotate when you close the bolt? Are you putting Gen 2 barrel extensions in a gen 1 rifle? My gen 1 barrels have no slop and neither do the gen 2's. The only time I can get any slop is with the gen 2 extensions in the gen 1 rifle.

I've had a pretty good number of barrels in my gen 1 rifle and never saw any shift in zero with a particular barrel regardless of what order I tightened screws, or whether I used the lock or not. The same is true of the Gen 2 rifles I've been making barrels for for the last 10 years. I have noted that the zero does change from barrel to barrel but usually not by much and that is something I'd expect. Every barrel is going to be a little different so changes in zero should be expected.

Now one thing I can see as a possibility for you is that your barrels aren't all the same diameter where the clamps hold them. If there is any taper it can affect the clamping and then the order of tightening might make a difference. Check your barrels with a good micrometer. Measure from right in front of the barrel extension about every half inch out to 5 inches past the extension. Measure again at 90 degrees from the first set. You should get 1.250" at all locations with no taper or out of round and dimensions bigger than 1.250 can be a problem. According to the original spec for the barrels the tolerance was + 0.000 and - 0.001 so there is only a .001" tolerance on that part. Keep it that way and there should be no zero issues. If its not right it could be the problem. Some makers aren't keeping the tolerance so keep this in mind when looking at pricing. Sometimes you get what you pay for and sometimes you don't.


Frank
 
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One more little detail I keep meaning to mention and forget is that guys want cerakoted barrels and neglect to consider that it will affect the clamp up on the barrel. If you're getting your barrels painted you should mask off the section that is clamped in the receiver. I have had to sand off a few customer barrels that they had cerakoted because they would no longer fit in the receiver. Even if they're not so oversized they won't fit you are affecting a part of the barrel that is key in the accuracy dept. Don't add another variable to the already complex equation of accuracy.

Frank
 
One more little detail I keep meaning to mention and forget is that guys want cerakoted barrels and neglect to consider that it will affect the clamp up on the barrel. If you're getting your barrels painted you should mask off the section that is clamped in the receiver. I have had to sand off a few customer barrels that they had cerakoted because they would no longer fit in the receiver. Even if they're not so oversized they won't fit you are affecting a part of the barrel that is key in the accuracy dept. Don't add another variable to the already complex equation of accuracy.

Frank
Man I have to make a phone call about the paint job tomorrow about not painting the clamping area.
 
When I say rotate, it is before I close the bolt. The barrel can rotate a bit back and forth when it is proper position. I always rotate mine to the max counter clockwise just in case so when I close the bolt, it will already be in the counter clockwise most position.

The ES Tactical barrel has no ceracote and the SAC barrel is ceracoted but not on the extension.
 
b04c9e22-f542-4078-9363-403733277e9d-jpeg.7244338

3shot group at 100 with 22.5 ts customs fluted truck axle

168smk
Would have gone for 5 but ran out...
 

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Is anyone running a 6.5 twist on a 223 conversion? If so is there any issues shooting 55gr and 75gr bullets?
 
Where have you guys purchased your DT's from? Any hide vendors? I'm looking for a SRS A2 6.5cm new or used.
 
Where have you guys purchased your DT's from? Any hide vendors? I'm looking for a SRS A2 6.5cm new or used.

I'll second Fred! I've bought bullets, powder, primers, my MagnetoSpeed, a Kestrel, a Feisol tripod, and lord knows what else from him. When I sold my gen 1 because I wanted the A1, I took yet another drive up to Fred's and picked it up. Every time I go, I end up spending an hour or two just talking with him. You may find dealers on here that are his equal in price and service, but you won't find better! Plus, I've shot dozens of matches with him. He's not just a dealer, but a huge supporter of our local matches!

@Fred @ Bison Tactical you wanna help this gentleman out?
 
I'll second Fred! I've bought bullets, powder, primers, my MagnetoSpeed, a Kestrel, a Feisol tripod, and lord knows what else from him. When I sold my gen 1 because I wanted the A1, I took yet another drive up to Fred's and picked it up. Every time I go, I end up spending an hour or two just talking with him. You may find dealers on here that are his equal in price and service, but you won't find better! Plus, I've shot dozens of matches with him. He's not just a dealer, but a huge supporter of our local matches!

@Fred @ Bison Tactical you wanna help this gentleman out?
I will second that.
Have you been shooting the pikes peak matches? I finally had a chance to shoot the one in January. Like all the local matches around here I felt very along being the only desert tech guy but I feel very comfortable using it for matches over my other rifles.
 
I will second that.
Have you been shooting the pikes peak matches? I finally had a chance to shoot the one in January. Like all the local matches around here I felt very along being the only desert tech guy but I feel very comfortable using it for matches over my other rifles.

I used to. The only reason I haven't lately is my days off changed, so I work on Saturdays, but I've been shooting them since Ryan first started holding them back in 2014? 2015? Back before it was Pikes Peak Precision Rifles or PRS style matches. I used my DT for quite a few matches, and still do. Occasionally, a barricade or obstacle will cause a little inconvenience with the DT, mostly because of its short length, but I've never felt handicapped by the DT in any way, and I find its shorter length is actually more beneficial on a lot of stages.
 
Well, that's that. My order is locked in. I went with SAC.

SRS A2 covert FDE/FDE, monopod

300NM conversion, Proof 18" barrel, spiral fluted shank, .230 freebore

223 conversion, complete bolt, super lite contour 18" barrel, 6.5 twist, spiral fluted shank, straight flutes on barrel, long range chamber

Dt srs covert case with straps

Needless to say I am stoked!
 
Well, that's that. My order is locked in. I went with SAC.

SRS A2 covert FDE/FDE, monopod

300NM conversion, Proof 18" barrel, spiral fluted shank, .230 freebore

223 conversion, complete bolt, super lite contour 18" barrel, 6.5 twist, spiral fluted shank, straight flutes on barrel, long range chamber

Dt srs covert case with straps

Needless to say I am stoked!

please let us know how that shorty 300NM shoots. That’s a very interesting setup.
 
please let us know how that shorty 300NM shoots. That’s a very interesting setup.
I will for sure. My plan is to try 230 a tips and 215 bergers. The .230 freebore is about as long as I wanted to go so that I could still run the 215's if needed and still have enough bearing surface in the case. Muzzle blast should be interesting, we shall see:oops:
 
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Well, that's that. My order is locked in. I went with SAC.

SRS A2 covert FDE/FDE, monopod

300NM conversion, Proof 18" barrel, spiral fluted shank, .230 freebore

223 conversion, complete bolt, super lite contour 18" barrel, 6.5 twist, spiral fluted shank, straight flutes on barrel, long range chamber

Dt srs covert case with straps

Needless to say I am stoked!
Holy crap! Youre well invested now.
 
What kind of velocity can you get in the short barrel 300?
That's a good question. I did some research and some guys shooting long range hand guns were getting 2800 to 2825fps with rum's shooting 230 bergers. The atip has less bearing surface than the berger so I am hoping for 2750 to 2800, but I wont know till I get it going.

Applied Ballistics has the BC for the 230 A tip at .421 so even at 2700 to 2750 you are right there with a 338 lapua running 300gr bergers in a 26" barrel. Just less recoil and an 8" shorter barrel. From what I can tell the lapuas in an 18" go 2500 to 2550.
 
That's a good question. I did some research and some guys shooting long range hand guns were getting 2800 to 2825fps with rum's shooting 230 bergers. The atip has less bearing surface than the berger so I am hoping for 2750 to 2800, but I wont know till I get it going.

Applied Ballistics has the BC for the 230 A tip at .421 so even at 2700 to 2750 you are right there with a 338 lapua running 300gr bergers in a 26" barrel. Just less recoil and an 8" shorter barrel. From what I can tell the lapuas in an 18" go 2500 to 2550.
I had 300 Norma in a 27” barrel and it was pretty Awsome!
 
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In that case, did you top it off with a Tangent Theta TT525P in a nice Spuhr mount? ?
That is a ballin scope and mount but doesn't fit what I want. To heavy and I want a low magnification of 2.5 or 3 and an upper of 20 or more. I am looking for as light as possible but strong enough to be reliable. What I came up with is a nightforce unimount with a nx8 2.5-20x50. Only problem is I like second focal plane and they don't offer sfp in the nx8 yet. I am sure they will thou.
 
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March scopes are light and seem like they would be perfect. I just wasn't sure about durability and holding zero. I almost bought a used 2.5-25x42 that was mint. It was a great deal, but just didn't know enough about them and any repairs go to japan.
 
Mine are used hard. Hunting, knocking around in the mule etc without any issues. Bought both used and have put several years on them.