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Gunsmithing Phoenix Custom Rifles work pics and reviews

This is another stellar 5 star review for Keith and Brad at PCR.

The quality of work with such attention to detail that they turn out of their shop is second to none that I have experienced. Their customer satisfaction driven approach to everything they do will keep me coming back with all my rifle gunsmithing needs. They have delivered on time every time I have used them, and have exceeded my expectations doing it!

Anyway, thanks Keith and Brad. Your work ethic and business model truly does stand out, apart and above!

Bill Mish
 
This is another stellar 5 star review for Keith and Brad at PCR.

The quality of work with such attention to detail that they turn out of their shop is second to none that I have experienced. Their customer satisfaction driven approach to everything they do will keep me coming back with all my rifle gunsmithing needs. They have delivered on time every time I have used them, and have exceeded my expectations doing it!

Anyway, thanks Keith and Brad. Your work ethic and business model truly does stand out, apart and above!

Bill Mish

Hey Bill! Good to see you are still around. Haven't seen you since the ARC days.
 
7 Mag from PCR
5 shots during load testing
100 yards
168 Berger VLD on the lands
 

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I just wanted to add that I had the pleasure of working with Keith and Brad with a Tikka T3x CTR that I needed bedded into my Manner's stock. They machined a set of pillars, a custom recoil lug and executed a beautiful bedding job. Communication was great throughout the process and their turnaround time was on point!

8GiRH2.jpg


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CSGTof.jpg
 
Wait times are still real low guys.
Give us a call.

Thanks!
 

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My new personal match rifle.
 

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I just sent a firing pin to be turned down to .062 to fit a new PTG bolt before I send it all to you to be fitted to my rifle, among other things. I'll be sure to post pictures when I get it back.
Hope your hunt was successful.
 
I just sent a firing pin to be turned down to .062 to fit a new PTG bolt before I send it all to you to be fitted to my rifle, among other things. I'll be sure to post pictures when I get it back.
Hope your hunt was successful.

Sounds great. We appreciate it very much.
No luck on the archery hunt. Came close though.

Thanks!
 
I just wanted to add that I had the pleasure of working with Keith and Brad with a Tikka T3x CTR that I needed bedded into my Manner's stock. They machined a set of pillars, a custom recoil lug and executed a beautiful bedding job. Communication was great throughout the process and their turnaround time was on point!

8GiRH2.jpg


gtMO4b.jpg


CSGTof.jpg
Thanks for posting pics and a review! We appreciate it.
 
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Hornady “Match” ammo had the lowest SD by far.
6fps with the 120s and 12fps with the 140s.

2705 avg and 2850 avg. with a 24” barrel

I’m guna shoot the 140s
 

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The Sig Sauer ammo I planned to use from the first trip out with no chrono, I’m not using cause it’s Far too slow. 2550 with 140s. All reviews online talk about the same thing. It’s just too slow of a load.

So Hornady it is.
 
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Just got off the phone with them to line up some more work.

I can't recommend these guys enough. They have done a 6.5 creed and a 28 Nosler and both are outstanding. Accuracy was exceptional and they were a pleasure to deal with. Prompt responses, easy to get a hold of as well. I'll also add that during one of the builds they even talked me through some of the options I'd requested and steered me away from some of the work. This led to a better rifle for what I wanted at the expense of money in their pocket. Says a lot about what kinds of guys they are.
 
Last edited:
PCR did the bolt knob on the Howa I just finished for a friend. Sent out Wednesday, at my door Friday morning. I’m in the same state, but was still really impressed with the quality of work and turn around.

 
Super sweet 338 Lapua
 

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Thanks so much everyone.


Couple awesome rifles finished recently.
 

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TO ANYONE USING A DEFIANCE ELITE ACTION:

Be sure to order a barrel with a 1” longer cylinder area. Itn other words make sure the blank has over 3” of cylinder, and still plenty to cut off the muzzle end(1” at LEAST).

I prefer to cut 1/2” off the breach end, then face off, and to cut 1.5” off the muzzle end, .. that’s how I prefer to have them when I indicate them in. So I need blanks 2” longer than finish at least, and again if using a DEFIANCE ELITE action, order it with at least 3” of cylinder length(1” finish cylinder, and 1.8” of thread tenon)



So far I’ve gotten by with regular blanks that have like 2.5” of cylinder length on the blank and it’s BARELY enough. Only leaves aboot 5/8” of finished cylinder and we prefer more.



Btw I’m soon going to have some DOs and DONTs on our website. Just to ensure as many people as possible are giving the rifles every chance to succeed.

It will focus on how and when to clean, and will repeat over and over DO NOT USE A LEAD SLED(or any recoil absorbing rest). Your rifle needs to kick you. Sorry.


Thanks very much
Keith Johns

www.phoenixcustomrifles.com
 
It will focus on how and when to clean, and will repeat over and over DO NOT USE A LEAD SLED(or any recoil absorbing rest). Your rifle needs to kick you. Sorry.

Just curious why you feel this way, Keith. I've never used a sled, and honestly can't ever see myself using one, but I'm just curious from a technical standpoint. I'm assuming it somehow accelerates wear on the action or stock, but would love to know the details. Thanks!
 
Just curious why you feel this way, Keith. I've never used a sled, and honestly can't ever see myself using one, but I'm just curious from a technical standpoint. I'm assuming it somehow accelerates wear on the action or stock, but would love to know the details. Thanks!
Drive your car into a big tree vs a bush. One is soft and has a bunch of give and the other does a lot more damage.
1543418433603.png

http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/impulse.html
 
I get that, but an integral part of using a rifle is recoil, whereas an integral part of using a car is NOT driving it into a wall. :ROFLMAO: The physics behind it is obvious, but I suppose I assumed that rifles were designed to handle copious amounts of recoil as part of their "nature," if that makes sense.
 
Hey guys. Been a while since I’ve checked in here.

The lead sleds beat up the rifle. The stock, the locking lugs, ..several things take dramatically more pressure if there is no where for it to go. It’s amazing how much just a couple inches of movement into your shoulder helps save the life of these rifles compared to it being in a sled.
Plus I question zero, velocity, and accuracy changes from a lead sled to shoulder.


Shoot your rifle naturally every time. If it kicks too much, shoot something smaller or add a brake and bring ear plugs.





Wait times are generally 2-6 weeks on full builds.
Small jobs like cerakote, a bed job, brake install, etc. we typically get done in a week. Waiting on parts is usually what delays things beyond that.

Trigger tech is our go-to trigger now. I’m sorry to say I won’t be buying any more Timneys unless the customer demands.


That new plastic economy stock by mcmillan seems strong, and is surprisingly machinable. Sanding them sucks though so some barrel channel inlets will be a PITA. I do think the stock is a good option for some people... Preferably with factory barrel contours still. It’s a great upgrade for factory rifles. If you’re planning an aftermarket build though, maybe consider an original mcmillan stock.


We added another shooter here in AZ to our shooting team roster and I’m happy to say we all did well in 2018. We’ll have updates on our shooting team posted on our website, and I will be revamping our YouTube channel.
Time to step things up a bit.


We’re now using BRUX barrels pretty exclusively. Other cut rifled(namely Bartlein and Krieger) barrels are absolutely great and we’re happy to use them, but we’re only keeping BRUX in stock.


Thanks very much everyone. We appreciate the support and try to give back all we can.

Keith Johns
 
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Pillar/epoxy bed job with carbon reinforcement.
 

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And my new narrower cheek piece prototype for Mcmillan A series. Let’s you keep your head more vertical behind the scope from BOTH sides of the rifle. I should have these two done this week and will post finished pics.


Thanks
 

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Keith,

Are you able to work on Steyr bolts? I’m looking at changing out the bolt knob on my Steyr Scout and possibly my Steyr Elite as well. Do you have anything in particular that would mate well with a scout rifle?
 
If the handles are already threaded it’s easy.
If the handles need threads, I’ll have to look at them in hand before I’ll know how easy/hard it’ll be to do an install on.
Text me some pics of you can. I may be able to get a good idea from a few pics as to whether I can do installs on them.

And again, anything already threaded is a piece of cake. Imperial or metric, and any handle size, it’s no problem if it’s already threaded.
 
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I put some lead in my A5 to balance my rifle on barricades with the heavier barrel it’s soon getting(this is my secondary(backup) stock).
I also narrowed this cheek piece as well cause it’s awesome.
Don’t hate ;)

The two spots you see epoxy have lead shot below it. I filled as much of the rear of the stock as I could. The grip area had a cavity in it which helped me fill it with more shot than my 5/8” hole would have otherwise taken.
The rear portion you see, I milled a stair-step pattern in it(making as large of a space as I could to fill with lead.

I didn’t overdue it and kept stock strength in mind.
Trust me I’m not weakening anything. It all gets epoxy/carbon reinforced. I don’t baby my gear and everything I own gets ran hard.

The cheek pieces, and that epoxy over the lead fill spots, will be cosmetically addressed soon. I have two matches this weekend and I’m racing to get done what I want done in time. I’ll make it pretty later. I can make it look perfect once I get our new epoxy kit from mcmillan(which has all their colors in it).


Thanks for lookin.
 

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If the handles are already threaded it’s easy.
If the handles need threads, I’ll have to look at them in hand before I’ll know how easy/hard it’ll be to do an install on.
Text me some pics of you can. I may be able to get a good idea from a few pics as to whether I can do installs on them.

And again, anything already threaded is a piece of cake. Imperial or metric, and any handle size, it’s no problem if it’s already threaded.
Keith,

This is what I’ve been able to find about my particular bolt on the Scout.

"Tactical" Scout Bolt Handle Modifications

The latest "Tactical" Scouts are fitted with a bolt with a more conventional shape and a large round knob. The ball is about 1 inch and diameter and while it is easy to manipulate some folks feel the knob is a little too big and looks out of proportion to the rifle. I am investigating making up some additional ones and will post availability here. However, if you have access to a friendly machinist you can make your own of any size or shape you like. I have found that a knob about .80" to .9" in diameter works just as well and looks better.

To remove the original knob proceed as follows.

  1. Remove the firing pin assembly.
  2. Hold the bolt body in your hand with the bolt lever protruding between your fingers.
  3. Using a propane torch carefully and evenly heat JUST the ball until you feel the bolt lever begin to warm between your fingers.
  4. Clamp the ball between two pieces of wood and unscrew. (Standard right-hand thread) The factory ball is aluminum so do not use pliers to remove or you will damage it.
  5. Clean the threads with a mild solvent.
Have your friendly machinist make a new knob to your specifications. The threads are standard metric 8 mm Coarse (1.25 mm pitch). Just have your new knob so threaded--use a 6.75 (6.8) mm drill as a tap drill--and you are in business. See below for suggested dimensions. A shaft length of about .25 - .3" works well.

knob.gif


Below I’ve attached a photo of the bolt.156A0AB0-641E-4C74-BA8F-C647D39AD8B6.jpegE3590CA1-DB3E-4EF9-A6D8-85670B1D3313.jpeg
 
Looks doable :)

Only part that worries me is heating the bolt knob to remove it without damaging it at all. We have padded vices and wood jaws we could use so I’m sure it’s no problem.

What knob design do you want?
I think we may be able to help you out.
 
Shot a bunch this weekend. Cheek piece is awesome.

I’m trying to get what we need to start filming the shooter and the impacts at matches, then edit it together and post. It’s kinda boring to only watch one or the other.
It’s hard to remember to film during a match but I’ll get better at it and can sometimes even bring a helper :)
 
I’ll post some pics after I make the stock above pretty again. Too busy shooting right now to have it down.
I have 3 A5s I’ll be doing pretty much the same things to and posting pics.
Soon to come are some different forend rails(for barricade wedges). Hard to beat that fortune cookie or game changer but if you have the rail you have the options.

I’m pretty sure mcmillan is offering at least one of the rail systems pre-installed in some of their stocks.
 
We are going to start offering Tikka receiver facing. It’s not squaring it up or “truing” it I’m after, it’s increasing the diameter to 1.200” so standard size barrels can be used.

Tikkas for hunting rifles I’d suggest keeping the 1.125” receiver face to keep unnecessary weight down.
For tactical Tikkas that benefit from heavier barrels I will be suggesting to cut the face back to 1.200” diameter. An m24 barrel on a faced Tikka is a stout rig. Barrel comes back to meet the receiver diameter flush/evenly.
 
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I made a jig for facing off Tikka actions. So now I can true the face back and use 1.200” barrels instead of 1.125”.


Wait times are being kept low. Under one month typically, and sometimes as little as a couple weeks for whole builds.

Small jobs are a week or two.


Thanks!
 
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Cool Copper color cerakote we came up with to match the Manners copper color.

Uses a mixture of three colors.
 

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Gorgeous rifle.
 

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