- Thread starter bohem
- Start date
- Status
Well sure but it’s going to leave a gap and the shims will be visible. Shouldn’t have to do that since both items are made by KRG. If shims are required to keep it flat they should advertise it and include some. It’s a pretty large gap. I could also sand the forend in the area it’s high but again, not something I should have to do on something that’s “designed” for each other by the same manufacturer.
That would not be ok with me. Can you confirm which item is bent with a known good straight edge?
I would send KRG and email they are fantastic and will fix whatever is going on.
I would send KRG and email they are fantastic and will fix whatever is going on.
@Cup O Joe can you post a picture?
I am the buddy with the mill. Lol. I’ve emailed KRG and sent pics. Let’s see how they handle this.
I also get some slight binding in the same area where the gap begins. However, if I loosen the Acra clamp slightly more, it'll go smoothly.
Curious if there will be a fix (or a fix needed).
Ain't it fun having a mill, you can fix most everything or in my case, screw up most anything up.
!Haha. Sure is. I normally err on the side of caution and try not to mess things up. Lol. If KRG doesn’t make this right I’ll fix it myself either by milling it or sanding the high spot. Chucking it on the mill without marring it is the biggest problem though since it’s plastic.Ain't it fun having a mill, you can fix most everything or in my case, screw up most anything up.
Mine is not slight. I have to loosen the clamp a lot for it to slide. Maybe I should have gone with the Area419 ARCA rail. It’s twice as thick as the KRG rail. Perhaps that would have been more rigid.
Pull the barreled action out of the aluminum chassis, 2 capscrews, and clamp the chassis with the forearm on it to the mill table. The chassis shouldn't move since your milling plastic. Light cuts the length of the forearm.
I’ll have to look at it to see. Measure twice cut once.
hahahah!!!
Everybody knows the true test of straightness is a purple ruler (or maybe I have that confused). Anyway, jammed some feelers gauges in there & the gap seems to be .032". As I told COJ, I haven't tried the thing out as I'm waiting for the BA from PVA along with the tripod so I don't have anything to Arca to it, but comparing the pictures, I'd expect similar results. I noticed it on installation but assumed it must not be enough to matter. For clarification, the forend appears to be flat everywhere except the front 3" where it's molded for what I assume is a Harris bipod.
Last edited:
That looks very similar to mine though I’d say mine has a larger gap.
Heck, shim it with a 0.032 feelers gauge and go back to your beer!!!
I like Tim's style, think I'm gonna do that, haha!
I’m on week 20 for a barrel too. I hope there’s more folks doing pre fit shouldered soon so the demand balances out with supply. I know LRI started doing them recently, but not sure if they are doing the Barloc cut.
Which A419 Arca rail were you looking at? I'm curious if the 8" Arcalock they have will work/fit for a Whiskey3 or Bravo. Description on their web page shows keymod attachmant. There's only a few holes in the middle and a long slot.
I'm also curious on how the JH 6.5's are holding up. What kind of groups are y'all printing?
I have 600 rounds thru my Nuclues BA from PVA, it shoots 1/2MOA no problem. I had a load developed in 20 rounds and only had to tweak it slightly once all my brass was fire formed. The chamber is slightly tight (feel it slightly when closing the bolt) with factory hornady ammo but I handload so thats not an issue. Ive had zero issues with the action, no light primer strikes using 16# spring, feeds great from a magazine, and single feeds great.
they are, at least for a barrel/action/barlok they have seen before, just call and put in the order
idahoorion
Happy 365 day everyone! Here is to a year of waiting..... hopefully I see it one day!
@BLKWLFK9 I don't care how good the rifle is, that's some great shooting by the shooter, nice work!
Hey guys, the forend of the Bravo is shaped at the front to fit a Harris bipod, i.e. it has a bit of a "V" to it at the sides. When you're putting on an Arca Rail, at the front of the rail use the centerline screw mount points not the wide ones. The wide mounting points on the Arca Rail are for the W-3 forend. If you put screws into the wider set mount points at the front and start cranking it down it will bend the rail to conform to the forend. Thank you,
Justin
Justin
BLKWLFK9 That does pic does my heart good. I am one of the ones that is at day 365, I am order #1953. It helps remind me the wait is worth it. I have a boatload of Prime 130gr just itching to go down range.....
My Savages group like that, just not with the Prime.
My Savages group like that, just not with the Prime.
5 shot group.
Sunday, I shot a 1"ish group at 350 as well. Didnt miss a single shot at 1k all day.
Sunday, I shot a 1"ish group at 350 as well. Didnt miss a single shot at 1k all day.
What length arca rail works? I'm thinking of getting the area 419 kit over the KRG rail but id probably have to cut part of it off.
A419 also makes a shorter 8" ArcaLock. I checked with them and they say it will fit the KRG Bravo and W3. Although will be 1.5" short. I'm thinking of going this route. I have a A419 rail/game changer I'd like to use with this.
Youll probably need a longer rail to use the Arca clamp Gamechanger. I had an Arca rail for a Bravo and I couldnt attach my Bipod and a Blamm bag at the same time.
Were you trying to attach a bipod on the forend? or on a spigot? I'll have the bipod attached to a KRG Spigot, and hopefully i have enough length to fit the Arca game changer.
For those who bought a barreled Nucleus action...and have put it in a KRG Bravo, did any/either the BA or Chassis come with the rear action screw? Or is this something to be purchased separately?
Also for triggers, did they come with the steel attachment roll pins? or is this also a separate purchase?
thanks!
Also for triggers, did they come with the steel attachment roll pins? or is this also a separate purchase?
thanks!
I was trying to attach it to the foreend. You should be fine if your using the spigot.
Justin, thanks for the response, that makes sense. Kind of feel like a bonehead... Loosened those front 4 screws up & the rail straightened right out.
I tried what you suggested, which was very difficult mind you, I had to hot glue the backer nuts to the fore end attach the fore end then atach the ARCA rail and it’ still makes the ARCA rail bend in the same exact fashion. No change whatsoever. The fore end on mine is all kinds of crooked. I’m ready to call it quits on the ARCA rail at this point.
I switched to the middle screws on the ARCA rail. Previously had the fron 2 inches difficult to move the clamp foward with
I don't think you're suppose to use the nuts. Use the oval shaped backplate with the threaded holes. it goes in the slots on the polymer handguard. sharp end of the the hole facing down.
although i agree there's still some resistance. originally, resistance started at ~2" before the front of the Arca rail. now that i use the middle mounted holes, it's now ~1" resistance @ the front and 1" resistance at the end (magazine end). I can live with this.
worse case you can try the ArcaLock from Area 419. Someone mentioned it's thicker, so possibly less flex?
I don't think you're suppose to use the nuts. Use the oval shaped backplate with the threaded holes. it goes in the slots on the polymer handguard. sharp end of the the hole facing down.
although i agree there's still some resistance. originally, resistance started at ~2" before the front of the Arca rail. now that i use the middle mounted holes, it's now ~1" resistance @ the front and 1" resistance at the end (magazine end). I can live with this.
worse case you can try the ArcaLock from Area 419. Someone mentioned it's thicker, so possibly less flex?
Last edited:
Anybody get a shipping notice from the latest batch yet?
Final Payment made 2 weeks ago but no shipping info yet. Order #2076
Same
- Status
