Question: Worn Out Supressor???

abn_surfer

Vaya con Dios
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  • Apr 1, 2009
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    Coastal South-East
    As the title states, I have a question to see if a supressor can get worn out?? I own two 30 cal supressor that I purchased in 2009 and took ownership of in 2010 : AAC Cylone & a YHM Phantom 762. Both are direct thread and have served on multiple rilfes to great effect. However, I have noticed that my YHM's POI shift is greater than expected, nearly 3/4 to a full mil off where as in the past it was maybe .2-.4 mils off. I cleaned both with a supressor cleaner fluid and a ton of carbon was removed. When I used the supressor again the results were the same.

    So, I am wondering after 15 years of use is it time, to consider a newer supressor, or is there a solution that I have not considered.

    Thanks for you time Y'all
     
    Are you shooting these rifles with the same can that you zero’d them with?

    Or are you shooting a rifle without a suppressor, when it was zero’d with a suppressor?

    POI shift never mattered to me because I always shoot the way it was zero’d. Suppressed.
     
    It seems like we are getting way ahead of ourselves. The most likely cause of a suppressor causing more POI shift than it used to, is that it weighs more.

    Unles the baffles are seriously eroded, as in the first baffles have much larger holes than the end, there is no reason to recore. Direct thread suppressors align to the shoulder, not the thread so worn threads may loosen easier, but has nothing to do with alignment or POI shift.

    OP post pictures of blast baffle. About how many rounds fired, do you do a lot of full auto or mag dumps?

    I think there is a 99% chance it is fine.
     
    Been running DT style cans for while myself. Found that using some thread tape (im talking like one wrap) on your barrel makes it better. If its constant on - Off between rifles. Threads will wear out before the can itself does. But the first baffle could be cracked/warped/strucked so check that out closely or post a pic.

    Or see about yoinking the rear cap off for a new DT cap or some quasi QAA/QD mount if you fancy it. I share a dozen cans between several dozen rifles and just ponied up for QD mounts to eliminate (mostly) the issue all together.

    Sonic cleaning followed by seperation of parts and a good wet tumble with SS pins been my go-to. My DT cans need cleaning at 2-2.2oz over their respected *clean* weights before I get full 3/4 Mil value POI shifts.
     
    The ‘new’ AAC recored my old TiRant 45 (just swapped in new baffles), as well as my SD 30-cal can. Had the SD converted to the new Ranger 7 spec under their Restoration program, but that link is dead now: https://advanced-armament.com/restoration-program/

    I’d try reaching out to them; mine turned out great, as as pointed out above, no need to deal with the ATF again to modernize your can.

    1761009377824.jpeg
     
    The ‘new’ AAC recored my old TiRant 45 (just swapped in new baffles), as well as my SD 30-cal can. Had the SD converted to the new Ranger 7 spec under their Restoration program, but that link is dead now: https://advanced-armament.com/restoration-program/

    I’d try reaching out to them; mine turned out great, as as pointed out above, no need to deal with the ATF again to modernize your can.

    View attachment 8791203
    Nice CS!
    SiCo did this for me recently. I had a baffle strike. My own fault. Free of charge. I thought that was incredible.
     
    Just read through this.

    No one has asked if your suppressors are still suppressing.
    Are they?



    If you can still mount them correctly and consistently, that would check one box as still being serviceable.
    If they are still suppressing, that would check the other box as still being serviceable.




    If you are keeping the control group of variables to include the same rifles and barrels over that period of time, that introduces bore wear as well as muzzle erosion into the equation you are forced to consider.

    Barrels will almost always experience gradual POI shifts over its useful life. Just like gaining weight, getting grey hair and clogged arteries, that doesn't happen over night. It happens very gradually over time and use. It is lost in the noise because you are always tweaking your zero and/or changing scopes over the life of the barrel. If you could have a control rifle with one scope and one lot of ammo but never touch the turrets once zeroed, you would 100% see a zero shift and a change in the "personality" of the barrel over its lifespan of wearing out.



    I would put POI shift between suppressed and non-suppressed at a Zero on the importance meter.
    As long as the suppressor is still doing its job of suppressing, it is not loosening every 2 or 3 shots and you are not getting any baffle strikes I would say they are fine.

    Maybe not in your own personal use case but with us and all our homies, we do not care if the POI shift is 37 feet at 100yds with versus without. We are only shooting suppressed, so the gun only stays zeroed for running with the can.
     
    My ballistic calculator lets me set each cartridge with vertical and horizontal offset adjustment. Very handy if you have a multi caliber rifle and may need to account for changing barrels.

    Easy to have the same cartridge listed several times if you want to track suppressor on or off, cold bore, etc.
     
    Be advised, my advice is like getting algebra test answers from a crackhead on the street....

    Are you shooting your cold bore from a cleaned barrel?
    No. I always shoot suppressed but sometimes swap the same Omega 30 can around on 2 -3 guns. I’ve checked on my 6.5 PRC and feel it was pretty consistent with the same load, enough to hunt anyway. I was just curious what your thoughts were. I’ve read people on here swear TBAC doesn’t have a first shot shift. Others argue about it.
     
    No. I always shoot suppressed but sometimes swap the same Omega 30 can around on 2 -3 guns. I’ve checked on my 6.5 PRC and feel it was pretty consistent with the same load, enough to hunt anyway. I was just curious what your thoughts were. I’ve read people on here swear TBAC doesn’t have a first shot shift. Others argue about it.
    I am a fairly stern believer in Cold Shooter over Cold Bore causing a first or second round POI deviation.

    If you didn't clean your rifle since the last session, what changed?
    Nobody messed with your rifle or scope or ammo since you last shot it.

    I definitely do not believe in most of the modern suppressors being a culprit of a cold bore POI deviation as long as they are mounted in a rigid setup. If the mount or even direct thread allows for ANYTHING related to the suppressor to move, then the possibility is there for the barrel to act differently.

    If you are removing the can after each session and then screwing it back on to shoot again, there could be some settling at the joint upon the first shot. Possible culprit? Not sure.

    I know for a fact that when the West Coast 0317s finally got their SureFire suppressors for their new M40-A5s, they shot like shit at first. All the guns were already in rotation with the legacy SF muzzle devices and they were shooting crazy good. Their cans finally showed up and they all shot like shit. Very frustrating for the main couple of dudes trying to unfuck things. They finally contacted the East Coast school house about it. Seems the East Coast had already experienced the same thing and sorted it out. Seems the suppressors were able to shift a little when mounted in spite of the locking ring, etc. They told the West Coast guys to mount all the cans and go run the piss out of them. Break contact drills, etc. As soon as they got the interface between the muzzle device and the can carboned up, the guns settled in and tightened up.

    Go figure.
     
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    No. I always shoot suppressed but sometimes swap the same Omega 30 can around on 2 -3 guns. I’ve checked on my 6.5 PRC and feel it was pretty consistent with the same load, enough to hunt anyway. I was just curious what your thoughts were. I’ve read people on here swear TBAC doesn’t have a first shot shift. Others argue about it.
    The vast majority of the LE guns I have built in the last 6 or 8 years are running ASR mounted Omega 300s without the Anchor Brake. They are really consistent. They seem to all repeat and come back to zero if they are removed for bore cleaning. Caveat is that they are not being taken on and off otherwise.

    The ASR mount system has caught some shit on this forum but I and my customers have had nothing but excellent results from it.
     
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    Right on. Thanks.
    I’ve heard a theory on oxygen and lack there of in the can affecting first shot shift and following shots. Hot residual gasses also maybe affecting following shots, or maybe lack there of affecting the first shot is probably a more accurate description.
    I’ve only had an issue with the ASR when I didn’t properly attach the can back on. Had a baffle strike. It was my fault. SiCo quickly fixed it complimentary, which I thought was amazing. Otherwise I’ve not had POI shifts personally taking my hot can on and off. I definitely see how it could affect it but I’ve done it to cool off the can and barrel and it was still consistent when replaced.
     
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    You've talked about POI shift but have made no reference to accuracy. We all know there are many factors that can affect the POI. Unless you are shooting the same lot of ammo and shooting under the same environmental conditions you're going to experience POI shift. I say reset your zero and keep shooting.
     
    You've talked about POI shift but have made no reference to accuracy. We all know there are many factors that can affect the POI. Unless you are shooting the same lot of ammo and shooting under the same environmental conditions you're going to experience POI shift. I say reset your zero and keep shooting.
    There’s a lot of people on this thread. Might want to specify who you’re speaking to.