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Suppressors QuietBore 22LR Titanium Suppressor Build Review -***Approved Form 1 Required***

Does anyone k ow if you need to use a booster with the G44 since its not fixed? MOST 22 pistols ive seen/shot use a fixed barrel; not like glock’s action.
 
Do any of you that have the 30 cal suppressors feel that they would hold up to a .338?
 
Do any of you that have the 30 cal suppressors feel that they would hold up to a .338?
I talked with sources intimately involved with that versions of solvent trap (they will remain nameless for legal reasons) and they stated do not use that on a 338LM or it will blow up in your face. Do I feel it would hold up; yes but that means absolutely nothing.
 
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Ordered a 22LR kit w/ Ti internals and engraving last night. Seems like a great deal with the 25% off coupon.

Mailed fingerprints to ATF today for my form 1.

It's a race to see if I receive the stamp or the kit first. ?
 
I should have asked this before, but like I said in a previous post this is my first pistol suppressor using the e-file system, do they send you a paper copy with your stamp in the mail, or do they simply email it for you to print?
 
I should have asked this before, but like I said in a previous post this is my first pistol suppressor using the e-file system, do they send you a paper copy with your stamp in the mail, or do they simply email it for you to print?

They email it to you. You don’t need to print it.
 
Got my tracking number this afternoon. Ordered Monday night. Awesome.
 
Super interested in this. I have a form 4 trust for a TBAC submitted early January. Anyone know if having this form 1 approved will cause problems for the form 4 application since it wasn't listed on that application? My trust doesn't have a schedule A identifying trust property so I think I should be good right?
 
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Any tips drilling the ti cups. used ta[ oil and it took forever.

thanks

buck
Seems to be a mixed bag on people's experience drilling the Titanium cups out. Several have said they had no issue. I know it looks me several sessions over several days including having to replace a broken drill bit because I had so much trouble drilling them out. Others have also reported difficulty. I'm not the handiest of folks but I can't see me having not done something right, the process seems pretty straightforward.
 
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Seems to be a mixed bag on people's experience drilling the Titanium cups out. Several have said they had no issue. I know it looks me several sessions over several days including having to replace a broken drill bit because I had so much trouble drilling them out. Others have also reported difficulty. I'm not the handiest of folks but I can't see me having not done something right, the process seems pretty straightforward.
Are most people using a hand drill or are you using a drill press? I don’t have a press at home but I have access to one elsewhere.
 
Buddy borrowed my 22lr QB drill jig last weekend to drill his QB Ti cups. Followed what I told him and he said it was super easy no issues and my bit came back in perfect order so I dont know.

Hand drill, speed setting 1, not 2. Tap Magic on bit and in drill fixture hole. Peck with trigger squeezed 1/3-1/2 way. Even pressure but not muscling it. Zero issues.

I can only suspect the guys having lots of trouble and breaking bits are either going to fast and/or too much pressure and not pecking.. you heat up Ti and good luck you will have a nightmare drilling it out and WILL break bits. You heat it up you harden it...
 
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Buddy borrowed my 22lr QB drill jig last weekend to drill his QB Ti cups. Followed what I told him and he said it was super easy no issues and my bit came back in perfect order so I dont know.

Hand drill, speed setting 1, not 2. Tap Magic on bit and in drill fixture hole. Peck with trigger squeezed 1/3-1/2 way. Even pressure but not muscling it. Zero issues.

I can only suspect the guys having lots of trouble and breaking bits are either going to fast and/or too much pressure and not pecking.. you heat up Ti and good luck you will have a nightmare drilling it out and WILL break bits. You heat it up you harden it...
Not knocking anyone's handyman abilities, but I would say the most likely culprit for any problems is not keeping the drill bit straight in the bushing. The bit needs to be perfectly straight up and down. That's why I would say use a drill press if possible.
 
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Not knocking anyone's handyman abilities, but I would say the most likely culprit for any problems is not keeping the drill bit straight in the bushing. The bit needs to be perfectly straight up and down. That's why I would say use a drill press if possible.

You do understand how the drill jig works right? The drill bit can only be 100% straight once inserted into the alignment bushing on the lid of the jig...that's the whole point of the jig... once you insert the bit into the alignment bushing the only place it's going is straight down.
 
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You do understand how the drill jig works right? The drill bit can only be 100% straight once inserted into the alignment bushing on the lid of the jig...that's the whole point of the jig... once you insert the bit into the alignment bushing the only place it's going is straight down.
Sure, I know what a drill bushing is. And I think it would be easy to unintentionally put a side load on the drill. Just putting an idea out there why some people struggle with this.
 
Sure, I know what a drill bushing is. And I think it would be easy to unintentionally put a side load on the drill. Just putting an idea out there why some people struggle with this.

If you know what a alignment bushing is...then you would know the drill bit isnt moving in any direction no matter what load you put on it. That's the whole point of the alignment bushing. Do you have a QB jig?
 
If you know what a alignment bushing is...then you would know the drill bit isnt moving in any direction no matter what load you put on it. That's the whole point of the alignment bushing. Do you have a QB jig?
I did my QB kit on a lathe, but I've used drill bushings. Did a four year apprenticeship as a machinist. I'm talking about putting sideways pressure on the drill motor, not the bit.
 
I did my QB kit on a lathe, but I've used drill bushings. Did a four year apprenticeship as a machinist. I'm talking about putting sideways pressure on the drill motor, not the bit.

Well your first post said the culprit was not keeping the drill bit straight in the bushing and the drill bit needs to be straight up and down. That's what the jig ensures via its alignment bushing which is a perfect fit to the included bit....nothing to do with side pressure on the motor....

Just so we arent confusing people here.
 
Well your first post said the culprit was not keeping the drill bit straight in the bushing and the drill bit needs to be straight up and down. That's what the jig ensures via its alignment bushing which is a perfect fit to the included bit....nothing to do with side pressure on the motor....

Just so we arent confusing people here.
Sorry for my lack of clarity. I meant that the pressure needs to be applied directly through the bit. Putting pressure on the handle portion of the drill motor is applying a side load. Anyway, enough, I'll stop.

Thanks BTW for your original post. It's why I'm now a happy owner.
 
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Went ahead and started the Form 1 about 2 weeks ago. Ordered the .556/.30 last Friday morning. No tracking yet.
 
Went ahead and started the Form 1 about 2 weeks ago. Ordered the .556/.30 last Friday morning. No tracking yet.

Ordered my .22 can on the 20th and no tracking as well. Willing to give them a month before I call it quits.
 
To minimize the time, I ordered my kit immediately after e-filing the Form 1. You already know what you need engraved. I had to sit on my solvent trap about a week. Stamp emailed, drilling holes the next day.
 
Ordered my .22 can on the 20th and no tracking as well. Willing to give them a month before I call it quits.

I wasn't complaining really, just letting other know the wait times. But as luck would have it i got a tracking # last night.
 
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Well your first post said the culprit was not keeping the drill bit straight in the bushing and the drill bit needs to be straight up and down. That's what the jig ensures via its alignment bushing which is a perfect fit to the included bit....nothing to do with side pressure on the motor....

Just so we arent confusing people here.


Sorry for my lack of clarity. I meant that the pressure needs to be applied directly through the bit. Putting pressure on the handle portion of the drill motor is applying a side load. Anyway, enough, I'll stop.

Thanks BTW for your original post. It's why I'm now a happy owner.

Not to rehash this, but you're both right. The bushing ensures a perfect fit, but you can easily apply side pressure when using a hand drill. The sideways pressure that is accidentally applied to the hand drill is what causes the bits to break.

I asked around a little about drilling titanium and was told to go slow (300-600 RPM) and ALWAYS have the drill bit spinning before making contact with the titanium. That reiterated padom's "pecking" advice to me.
 
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Ordered the .22 LR kit with alum baffles, drill fixture and engraving on Jan 20th. Hopefully will arrive before the tax stamp.

Got a Ruger Mark IV waiting for it.
I ordered on the 18th a titanium 22 kit with engraving. Still no tracking (3 weeks).
I talked to Preston on Monday the 3rd to ask for an update. I was told it would ship that day or soon after. It just "needed to be engraved". He said they were waiting on nitride finished parts.

Maybe next week I'll get confirmation....Next weekend will be 4 weeks.

It's a gold rush and it seems every solvent trap company takes on too much work (Diversified, Muted, etc)
 
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Well after a few revisions and testing the 45 SS and Ti cups are ready to be sold. I tested them and they work great and fit into your QB 45 drill fixtures. You will be able to buy these hopefully within the next few days to a week. They are just getting the payment processing put on their website so you can place orders right there. These are a direct replacement for your QB aluminum 45 cups. Pricing will be what I posted already. Discount if you buy the complete stack for your tube but you can buy them 1 @ a time too.



 
The 5.56/30 cups are done too. But I havent tested them yet. Wont be posting them up till I have tested them to ensure they sound as good or better than the factory cups. I cant test them till I have the new, lightened entrance and exit caps for the QB tube. Hoping to have the new entrance and exit caps in the next week to 10 days. As soon as I drop them in and test them and all is good they will be added to their site to buy as well at the prices I posted previously.
 
Finished my Ti 22 kit last night and tested in the dark. With subs on the 10/22 it sounds like an air rifle. I am very happy with the kit. Looks great too. Can’t wait for the 30 cal kit to get here. Just finished an at for it

Thanks

Buck
 
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I ordered on the 18th a titanium 22 kit with engraving. Still no tracking (3 weeks).
I talked to Preston on Monday the 3rd to ask for an update. I was told it would ship that day or soon after. It just "needed to be engraved". He said they were waiting on nitride finished parts.

Maybe next week I'll get confirmation....Next weekend will be 4 weeks.

It's a gold rush and it seems every solvent trap company takes on too much work (Diversified, Muted, etc)

Yeah still nothing here, ordered alum .22 kit with engraving on the 20th.

They say 1-2 weeks on the website but we are going on 3+ weeks now. I guess as long as I get it before the tax stamp is approved ill be fine but im going to be very irate if I have a tax stamp in hand and no suppressor.

No excuse to be slower than the ATF. The website really ought to mention 3-4 weeks (for engraving, at least).
 
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Yeah still nothing here, ordered alum .22 kit with engraving on the 20th.

They say 1-2 weeks on the website but we are going on 3+ weeks now. I guess as long as I get it before the tax stamp is approved ill be fine but im going to be very irate if I have a tax stamp in hand and no suppressor.

No excuse to be slower than the ATF. The website really ought to mention 3-4 weeks (for engraving, at least).

Just got tracking in the last hour...
 
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The 5.56/30 cups are done too. But I havent tested them yet. Wont be posting them up till I have tested them to ensure they sound as good or better than the factory cups. I cant test them till I have the new, lightened entrance and exit caps for the QB tube. Hoping to have the new entrance and exit caps in the next week to 10 days. As soon as I drop them in and test them and all is good they will be added to their site to buy as well at the prices I posted previously.

Whats the website that they are going to be available on? Also you said you get a discount if you buy the whole stack, but will you be able to do SS and Ti stack options?

also, I had an issue where QB didn't engrave my .45 tube. It took 4-5 emails but they finally sent it out with the engraving. They also said they are ramping up production and getting more help so to be patient with them. They also said they are working on a 3 lug adapter for the .45 can.
 
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Whats the website that they are going to be available on? Also you said you get a discount if you buy the whole stack, but will you be able to do SS and Ti stack options?

also, I had an issue where QB didn't engrave my .45 tube. It took 4-5 emails but they finally sent it out with the engraving. They also said they are ramping up production and getting more help so to be patient with them. They also said they are working on a 3 lug adapter for the .45 can.
Also interested if a SS and Ti mixed kits would available. I'f imagine most everyone would like at least one SS blast baffle. Did I hear something about Ti endcaps as well? At this point I might as well find a Ti tube to go along with all of these delicious components.
 
All you guys bitching about slow shipping, I got mine (not engraved) shipped in three days. Now I have to stare at this thing for + /- another month until I get my stamp and can drill it out. Now that is something to bitch about!
 
I dont see a problem with a complete set consisting of 1 SS and the rest Ti cups to qualify for the complete set pricing. You can mix and match all you want at the per cup price. Complete set pricing will be either a full set of Ti, or a full set of SS or 1 SS and the rest Ti.

Exit cap with a 5/8 hex on the front is being made as we speak. You will be able to throw a crescent wrench or socket on it to install and remove. It will be about a 1/3 of the weight of the current QB exit cap...

Have a really cool new entrance cap setup coming. All entrance caps/adapters WILL BE SS ONLY. Dont want any galling issues screwing off and on Ti onto SS barrels. BUT, we have removed a TON of weight from the QB entrance cap and made it fully modular. Your looking at the entrance cap with the 5/8-24 adapter weighing roughly 1/3 of the current QB threaded entrance cap.... Final numbers to follow once a final part is ready.

You will be able to buy the new lightened SS entrance cap with the QD threads in the middle. You will then be able to buy 1/2-28, 5/8-24, 3/4-24 adapters that thread into the center of the cap. They will also have a self timing QD muzzle break you can buy that will also be able to thread right into the center of the new entrance cap. Stay tuned. prototypes are rolling off the machine new and being tested. Will have pictures and pricing soon.
 
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Some things to think about. I would go with the severely lightened SS exit cap as well instead of Ti. Reason being, we will be nitriding all the SS entrance and exit cap parts...Ti will be uncoated
 
I dont see a problem with a complete set consisting of 1 SS and the rest Ti cups to qualify for the complete set pricing. You can mix and match all you want at the per cup price. Complete set pricing will be either a full set of Ti, or a full set of SS or 1 SS and the rest Ti.

Exit cap with a 5/8 hex on the front is being made as we speak. You will be able to throw a crescent wrench or socket on it to install and remove. It will be about a 1/3 of the weight of the current QB exit cap...

Have a really cool new entrance cap setup coming. All entrance caps/adapters WILL BE SS ONLY. Dont want any galling issues screwing off and on Ti onto SS barrels. BUT, we have removed a TON of weight from the QB entrance cap and made it fully modular. Your looking at the entrance cap with the 5/8-24 adapter weighing roughly 1/3 of the current QB threaded entrance cap.... Final numbers to follow once a final part is ready.

You will be able to buy the new lightened SS entrance cap with the QD threads in the middle. You will then be able to buy 1/2-28, 5/8-24, 3/4-24 adapters that thread into the center of the cap. They will also have a self timing QD muzzle break you can buy that will also be able to thread right into the center of the new entrance cap. Stay tuned. prototypes are rolling off the machine new and being tested. Will have pictures and pricing soon.

This is legit, anything for a tri lug for the 45 can?