At the moment I have a savage replacement barrel coming from Shilen. It's going on My model 11 and I was wondering how big a deal it might be to do the swap Myself. Also was wondering what else should be checked or replaced while the barrel is off, like the recoil lug.?. Luckily I'm not in a rush to get this done so time to learn. Any pointers, first hand stories, words of wisdom and the like welcome.
Gunsmithing Rebarreling a savage...Couple questions
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Re: Rebarreling a savage...Couple questions
you need a action or strap wrench, headspace gauges, vice.
you need a action or strap wrench, headspace gauges, vice.
Re: Rebarreling a savage...Couple questions
You will also need some wooden blocks to secure the barrel in the vice. A heat gun/kroil is also a good idea because those barrel nuts can be really tough to loosen up if it has never been done. Breaker bar will be helpful too.
You will also need some wooden blocks to secure the barrel in the vice. A heat gun/kroil is also a good idea because those barrel nuts can be really tough to loosen up if it has never been done. Breaker bar will be helpful too.
Re: Rebarreling a savage...Couple questions
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RobertB</div><div class="ubbcode-body">you need a action or strap wrench, headspace gauges, vice. </div></div>
don't forget the barrel nut wrench.
The vice is either for your barrel jaws or for holding your action wrench. I have an action wrench that I can use for both the savage for sure and the rem 700 if I remember correctly. I secure the action in the action wrench and secure that in the vice. I then use the barrel NUT wrench to undo the barrel. It's that simple. Other people like to secure the barrel in a set of barrel jaws adapter in a vice. They then again use the barrel NUT wrench to undo the barrel. I am not sure what the strap wrench is for--I never needed one. And yes you will need a GO gauge for your caliber. No-Go gauge is not necessary. All you have to do to turn your GO to No-Go gauges is place a single layer of cellophane tape at the base of the gauge and use the gauge with the tape attached. This turns it into a No-Go gauge.
This is how I turned my Stevens 200 .223 rifle into a competition 300 whisper rifle--all in my own garage.
Hope this helps
Gene
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RobertB</div><div class="ubbcode-body">you need a action or strap wrench, headspace gauges, vice. </div></div>
don't forget the barrel nut wrench.
The vice is either for your barrel jaws or for holding your action wrench. I have an action wrench that I can use for both the savage for sure and the rem 700 if I remember correctly. I secure the action in the action wrench and secure that in the vice. I then use the barrel NUT wrench to undo the barrel. It's that simple. Other people like to secure the barrel in a set of barrel jaws adapter in a vice. They then again use the barrel NUT wrench to undo the barrel. I am not sure what the strap wrench is for--I never needed one. And yes you will need a GO gauge for your caliber. No-Go gauge is not necessary. All you have to do to turn your GO to No-Go gauges is place a single layer of cellophane tape at the base of the gauge and use the gauge with the tape attached. This turns it into a No-Go gauge.
This is how I turned my Stevens 200 .223 rifle into a competition 300 whisper rifle--all in my own garage.
Hope this helps
Gene
Re: Rebarreling a savage...Couple questions
Get an oak 2x4 and drill a hole in it as close as you can find to barrel diameter. Cut it in half through the hole. Put some powdered rosin on the oak where it contacts the barrel. A Savage barrel nut wrench is a good thing to have! Put the wrench over the nut (some nuts have round grooves, some square...which is why you have two ends on that wrench), clamp the barrel and the oak blocks in a big vise. Align the wrench so that it is near horizontal (in the direction of UNSCREWING), and hit it a smart one with a moderately big hammer. A sharp blow works best in my experience than standing on the wrench. Installation is in the reverse, except you really need a headspace guage to set the headspace. Remember as you tighten the nut it stretches the barrel OUT of the action, so have a decent amount of "feel" to the closing of the bolt on the headspace guage before you tighten it up completely. JMHO
Get an oak 2x4 and drill a hole in it as close as you can find to barrel diameter. Cut it in half through the hole. Put some powdered rosin on the oak where it contacts the barrel. A Savage barrel nut wrench is a good thing to have! Put the wrench over the nut (some nuts have round grooves, some square...which is why you have two ends on that wrench), clamp the barrel and the oak blocks in a big vise. Align the wrench so that it is near horizontal (in the direction of UNSCREWING), and hit it a smart one with a moderately big hammer. A sharp blow works best in my experience than standing on the wrench. Installation is in the reverse, except you really need a headspace guage to set the headspace. Remember as you tighten the nut it stretches the barrel OUT of the action, so have a decent amount of "feel" to the closing of the bolt on the headspace guage before you tighten it up completely. JMHO
Re: Rebarreling a savage...Couple questions
let your nut soak in some motor oil over night to help loosen it up for the first time. Savage using some crazy ammounts of torque when they put those nuts on so you'll need alot of pressure to break them loose. I had my brother hold the barrel while it was in the vise, then it took almost my whole 208lbs on the nut wrench with a 3' breaker bar to break it loose. Once you get them lose from the factory though it is very easy to get off the next time you want to swap out.
Good Luck,
Merritt
let your nut soak in some motor oil over night to help loosen it up for the first time. Savage using some crazy ammounts of torque when they put those nuts on so you'll need alot of pressure to break them loose. I had my brother hold the barrel while it was in the vise, then it took almost my whole 208lbs on the nut wrench with a 3' breaker bar to break it loose. Once you get them lose from the factory though it is very easy to get off the next time you want to swap out.
Good Luck,
Merritt
Re: Rebarreling a savage...Couple questions
i have a post about it with pictures too. easy to do. invest in the tools, you can always sell them. and i built my vise, but there are a few that are pretty cheap also.
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1640570#Post1640570
i have a post about it with pictures too. easy to do. invest in the tools, you can always sell them. and i built my vise, but there are a few that are pretty cheap also.
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1640570#Post1640570
Re: Rebarreling a savage...Couple questions
let your nut soak in some motor oil over night to help loosen it up for the first time.
mwroseberry you crack me up
priceless.... and what about the rifle?
let your nut soak in some motor oil over night to help loosen it up for the first time.
mwroseberry you crack me up
priceless.... and what about the rifle?
Re: Rebarreling a savage...Couple questions
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bkster</div><div class="ubbcode-body">let your nut soak in some motor oil over night to help loosen it up for the first time.
mwroseberry you crack me up
priceless.... and what about the rifle?
</div></div>
I was speaking of your rifle... not your gun nut
This is my rifle, this is my gun,
this is for fight'n this is for fun
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bkster</div><div class="ubbcode-body">let your nut soak in some motor oil over night to help loosen it up for the first time.
mwroseberry you crack me up
priceless.... and what about the rifle?
</div></div>
I was speaking of your rifle... not your gun nut
This is my rifle, this is my gun,
this is for fight'n this is for fun
Re: Rebarreling a savage...Couple questions
I did this with a stevens 200 this week. All I used was the Wheeler action wrench, barrel nut wrench, and a go gauge. So if you don't have a vice you can still get it done.
I recommend replacing the recoil lug. I used the Sharp Shooter Supply one from Brownells. The whole process is pretty simple.
I did this with a stevens 200 this week. All I used was the Wheeler action wrench, barrel nut wrench, and a go gauge. So if you don't have a vice you can still get it done.
I recommend replacing the recoil lug. I used the Sharp Shooter Supply one from Brownells. The whole process is pretty simple.
Re: Rebarreling a savage...Couple questions
No Need for Heat or Oil... Smack the damn Wrench with a Hammer and it will break loose quick and easy, Force is just gonna piss you off.
No Need for Heat or Oil... Smack the damn Wrench with a Hammer and it will break loose quick and easy, Force is just gonna piss you off.
Re: Rebarreling a savage...Couple questions
I have done six rebarrels, I use a vise from harbour freight, two 2x4 chucks glue together drilled holes an cut in half then use the nut wrench, I always replace the recoil lug, trigger ,trigger guard to a metal one and bolt handle. Stockade is a good source for recoil lug and bolt handle.
Get head space gauges I tried using brass with mixed results. While you have the action bare is also a good time to bead the rifle.while the barrel is off is also a good time to fit your base it is easy to see if screws are too long.
Just my thought have fun
I have done six rebarrels, I use a vise from harbour freight, two 2x4 chucks glue together drilled holes an cut in half then use the nut wrench, I always replace the recoil lug, trigger ,trigger guard to a metal one and bolt handle. Stockade is a good source for recoil lug and bolt handle.
Get head space gauges I tried using brass with mixed results. While you have the action bare is also a good time to bead the rifle.while the barrel is off is also a good time to fit your base it is easy to see if screws are too long.
Just my thought have fun
Re: Rebarreling a savage...Couple questions
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: AXEMAN</div><div class="ubbcode-body">i have a post about it with pictures too. easy to do. invest in the tools, you can always sell them. and i built my vise, but there are a few that are pretty cheap also.
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1640570#Post1640570 </div></div>
Perfect! Thanks everyone for Your input, I think I can do this. Now, time to find the tools..
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: AXEMAN</div><div class="ubbcode-body">i have a post about it with pictures too. easy to do. invest in the tools, you can always sell them. and i built my vise, but there are a few that are pretty cheap also.
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1640570#Post1640570 </div></div>
Perfect! Thanks everyone for Your input, I think I can do this. Now, time to find the tools..
Re: Rebarreling a savage...Couple questions
i was told i could use brass shot in that barrel, but it was a new barrel so i bought a go gauge. look for one on sale. mine was under $20. my vice was under $20 too. scrap yard for the plates, hardware store for springs, nuts and washers. oh and if you use tape, get real scotch tape. its thicker than the dollar store stuff. you can feel the difference.
good advice here. i whacked my wheeler wrench with a hammer, and a toilet paper roll fits over it to help keep it from getting dinged up. then i switched to wood the next time i had to hit it. i also taped my barrel to keep it from getting marred. no oil soaking, but i did WASH my nuts really good.
i was told i could use brass shot in that barrel, but it was a new barrel so i bought a go gauge. look for one on sale. mine was under $20. my vice was under $20 too. scrap yard for the plates, hardware store for springs, nuts and washers. oh and if you use tape, get real scotch tape. its thicker than the dollar store stuff. you can feel the difference.
good advice here. i whacked my wheeler wrench with a hammer, and a toilet paper roll fits over it to help keep it from getting dinged up. then i switched to wood the next time i had to hit it. i also taped my barrel to keep it from getting marred. no oil soaking, but i did WASH my nuts really good.
Re: Rebarreling a savage...Couple questions
Not sure what part of Texas! you're in but if you're near San Angelo, give me a PM and I'll help you out.
And like others have suggested while the barrel is off, replace the lug. Its fairly cheap for a much, much higher quality part than what Savage sticks in there.
Mike
Not sure what part of Texas! you're in but if you're near San Angelo, give me a PM and I'll help you out.
And like others have suggested while the barrel is off, replace the lug. Its fairly cheap for a much, much higher quality part than what Savage sticks in there.
Mike
Re: Rebarreling a savage...Couple questions
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ~Ace~</div><div class="ubbcode-body">No Need for Heat or Oil... Smack the damn Wrench with a Hammer and it will break loose quick and easy, Force is just gonna piss you off. </div></div>
I`ll second that. A dead blow hammer against the wrench does wonders & makes life easier.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ~Ace~</div><div class="ubbcode-body">No Need for Heat or Oil... Smack the damn Wrench with a Hammer and it will break loose quick and easy, Force is just gonna piss you off. </div></div>
I`ll second that. A dead blow hammer against the wrench does wonders & makes life easier.
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