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Recommend me a torque driver

pk5333

can't hit the broad side of a barn
Full Member
Minuteman
Nov 29, 2021
122
215
Northeast Ohio, USA
Got a wheeler fat wrench. Good thing I first tried it on the scope mount (to the pic rail) and not the scope itself, because it's definitely messed up. Anything above the very lowest setting takes considerable force to turn. Full disclaimer, I bought it on Amazon. Maybe it's fake? But why fake a $30 product?

Anything good out there, preferably made in America (or at least not in China)? Not trying to spend an arm and a leg but I also realize you get what you pay for.
 
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This is the one I'm talking about OP, I have a couple extra I bought separate as I needed a couple specific ones for my AI. But before I had my AI the standard kit was perfection. Very high quality. You'd be hard pressed to beat it
 

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Running cheap torque wrenches at the low end of their adjustment range is a good prescription for errors.

I like Fix-It sticks - it's what I carry in my pack and use at my bench. They are not cheap.

For use on bicycles, I have this CDI T-handle driver:


Unfortunately it's only available with a N-m scale. That being said, if it was set at 2/4/8 N-m for the common 15/30/65 in-lb requirements, respectively, it'd probably be closer to hitting the target values than many other options.
 
Got a wheeler fat wrench. Good thing I first tried it on the scope mount (to the pic rail) and not the scope itself, because it's definitely messed up. Anything above the very lowest setting takes considerable force to turn. Full disclaimer, I bought it on Amazon. Maybe it's fake? But why fake a $30 product?

Anything good out there, preferably made in America (or at least not in China)? Not trying to spend an arm and a leg but I also realize you get what you pay for.
Mine works as expected. They have a piece of paper inside the box that tells you the results of them testing the tool. Did yours come with that?

Also look closely at the markings for the torque settings and make sure you are adusting it properly. The markings are a little deceiving but make perfect sense once you read the instructions...
 
Mine works as expected. They have a piece of paper inside the box that tells you the results of them testing the tool. Did yours come with that?

Also look closely at the markings for the torque settings and make sure you are adusting it properly. The markings are a little deceiving but make perfect sense once you read the instructions...
yep it had the calibration paper in there. But the difference in the very lowest setting and just a couple turns up is substantial.
 
yep it had the calibration paper in there. But the difference in the very lowest setting and just a couple turns up is substantial.
Substantial is subjective. I've been tightening screws and bolts for 50 years, at least. I can tell by feel if the torque is close to right or not. Going from the lowest setting which is the storage setting, where you can't even see the red stripe, and therefore zero torque, is basically freewheeling. Then going halfway up to 10-inch pounds, which is the first accurate marking IS SUBSTANTIAL.
 
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Running cheap torque wrenches at the low end of their adjustment range is a good prescription for errors.

I like Fix-It sticks - it's what I carry in my pack and use at my bench. They are not cheap.

For use on bicycles, I have this CDI T-handle driver:


Unfortunately it's only available with a N-m scale. That being said, if it was set at 2/4/8 N-m for the common 15/30/65 in-lb requirements, respectively, it'd probably be closer to hitting the target values than many other options.
I use this one. It's handy
 
Borkas sold....

 
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Substantial is subjective. I've been tightening screws and bolts for 50 years, at least. I can tell by feel if the torque is close to right or not. Going from the lowest setting which is the storage setting, where you can't even see the red stripe, and therefore zero torque, is basically freewheeling. Then going halfway up to 10-inch pounds, which is the first accurate marking IS SUBSTANTIAL.
more substantial than it should be
 
Borkas sold....


Borkas are awesome I have 3-4 sets and counting
 
i've been using the Wheeler torque wrench for 5 years now. Works great . Bought it a Cabella's , definately paid more than $30. Use it to torque all my scope mounts and scopes. Never a problem
Same here. I do have other inch-pound stuff in my box and all are very close in specs. Torque is all about precision - BUT WAIT! What's the delta? Everyone here would be surprised to know how many "reasonable" inch-pounds actually male a difference.
more substantial than it should be
That's like saying more substantial than substantial. I'm out of here for good, but kindly please look at this:

The Best Torque Wrench For Gunsmithing – Perfect Guns Tool
 
Same here. I do have other inch-pound stuff in my box and all are very close in specs. Torque is all about precision - BUT WAIT! What's the delta? Everyone here would be surprised to know how many "reasonable" inch-pounds actually male a difference.

That's like saying more substantial than substantial. I'm out of here for good, but kindly please look at this:

The Best Torque Wrench For Gunsmithing – Perfect Guns Tool
i picked up some Fix it sticks a year ago, but have never used them
 
Search Torqkey or Torqbox
Common mini torque tools used in bicycle industry, for safely tightening bolts on carbon components.

Usually available in 2, 4, 5 & 6NM (use a converter for inch/lb if you want but the basic math is one tenth ie. 2Nm is appx 20in/lb)
Light and cheap and perfect for range bag (I use 2Nm on scope rings, 5Nm on scope mount base bolts etc just as a check prior to matches).


 
Same here. I do have other inch-pound stuff in my box and all are very close in specs. Torque is all about precision - BUT WAIT! What's the delta? Everyone here would be surprised to know how many "reasonable" inch-pounds actually male a difference.

That's like saying more substantial than substantial. I'm out of here for good, but kindly please look at this:

The Best Torque Wrench For Gunsmithing – Perfect Guns Tool

I like this bad boy when bought with a coupon at Brownells...


Made in Seekonk, MA by people that continually vote Communist.

You could probably order direct from Seekonk.

Great tool and what I reach for if doing patient maintenance.
 
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Got a wheeler fat wrench. Good thing I first tried it on the scope mount (to the pic rail) and not the scope itself, because it's definitely messed up. Anything above the very lowest setting takes considerable force to turn. Full disclaimer, I bought it on Amazon. Maybe it's fake? But why fake a $30 product?

Anything good out there, preferably made in America (or at least not in China)? Not trying to spend an arm and a leg but I also realize you get what you pay for.

Anything made by Seekonk, CDI, or Tohnichi
 
Brownells has an in/lbs version:

Running cheap torque wrenches at the low end of their adjustment range is a good prescription for errors.

I like Fix-It sticks - it's what I carry in my pack and use at my bench. They are not cheap.

For use on bicycles, I have this CDI T-handle driver:


Unfortunately it's only available with a N-m scale. That being said, if it was set at 2/4/8 N-m for the common 15/30/65 in-lb requirements, respectively, it'd probably be closer to hitting the target values than many other options.
 
There is a lot of misunderstanding about "torque". When the word torque is used in the context of bolts and screws it is the application of a "rotational force".

Most of us think in terms of applying a stated amount of torque to "tighten" a screw or bolt. But how does that really work and what are the variables that influence the accuracy of this "tightening"? What is "tight"?

Tightness is a misnomer. What we are really doing when we tighten a screw or bolt is to minutely tension the threads of the the bolt against a nut (the nut can be any threaded part that might look nothing like a nut). This tension is created by minutely extending the threads and this in turn creates the tension between the head of the bolt and the part that it sits on.

Applying the exact amount of torque to get the exact amount of tension is not easy, and is affected by a number of things. Is the tread lubricated? Is it dry? Is it dirty? All this things affect how much torque is needed to get the correct tension and can vary between +/- 25 and 40% of the force needed.

So, engineers build a lot of safety into torque specs. And if all goes well the bolt threads strip before the threads on the expensive part (the nut).

Finally, as the OP said in the original post "It feels like too much force" with the tool he was using. Feeling torque varies greatly by the size of the LEVER. For example, the force FELT at a setting of 10 inch-pounds will be quite stronger when using a thin screwdriver handle than when using a T-bar. Bigger lever on the T-bar means more "leverage". But it is still the same rotational force.....

Hope this helps
 
I’ve been using the Borka kit for years and recently bought Fix It sticks torque driver to give a try, which I am impressed with. I still use the Borka for the finer torque requirements, but for the larger torque needs, the Fix It Sticks are a easier on the thumb.
 
Applying the exact amount of torque to get the exact amount of tension is not easy, and is affected by a number of things. Is the tread lubricated? Is it dry? Is it dirty? All this things affect how much torque is needed to get the correct tension and can vary between +/- 25 and 40% of the force needed.

Is it a soft joint? A hard joint? Which metals are in contact with each other? Is the fastener plated or bare? What's the rundown torque? Are there locking elements between the fastener and the joint?

And on and on and on...........you got it.
 
Got a wheeler fat wrench. Good thing I first tried it on the scope mount (to the pic rail) and not the scope itself, because it's definitely messed up. Anything above the very lowest setting takes considerable force to turn. Full disclaimer, I bought it on Amazon. Maybe it's fake? But why fake a $30 product?

Anything good out there, preferably made in America (or at least not in China)? Not trying to spend an arm and a leg but I also realize you get what you pay for.
Fix it sticks
 
Had a wheeler fat wrench and still do. Bought a new style borka kit a few months ago. It is my go to now for all my needs and desires!!!
 
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My buddy, F-Class John (youtube) did a comprehensive, systematic and detailed review of pretty much every viable option out there. He (and I) ended up with Fix-it Stix. I love mine...having tried numerous others.
 
My fixit sticks kit is on my table and goes into any range bag going out the door. I have a wheeler I used once and out back in the box and is now in the closet. The fixit sticks are so handy
 
There's hobby grade stuff, and there are tools professionals use.

Most of the shit mentioned in this thread is not what professionals use.
 
It’s Amazon. Return it for free and get another. It’ll be fine @308pirate. As much as it irritates you, 99% of us are in fact hobbyists.

Or go with Seekonk if your Professional certification/reputation/livelihood depends on having certifiable thread tensions.
 
I got me one of them Vortex Torque drivers.
Works well. Comes with the cert. No complaints.
 
Brownells has an in/lbs version:


If that's actually made by CDI, then that would be a great option. But I'm concerned that it's a knock-off.
 
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There's hobby grade stuff, and there are tools professionals use.

Most of the shit mentioned in this thread is not what professionals use.

Indeed. The hardness of their bits has a lot of variability too. I have Fix-It Sticks kit in my range bag but only use it as a last resort. I try not to use things like torque wrenches in the field as much as possible. I also try to avoid consumer grade tools on the bench as much as possible too.
 
Indeed. The hardness of their bits has a lot of variability too. I have Fix-It Sticks kit in my range bag but only use it as a last resort. I try not to use things like torque wrenches in the field as much as possible. I also try to avoid consumer grade tools on the bench as much as possible too.

I was over at the fix it sticks page yesterday. They seem adequate as a field-expedient solution.

Not what I would use on my workbench, at all.
 
There's hobby grade stuff, and there are tools professionals use.

Most of the shit mentioned in this thread is not what professionals use.
Question is does it really matter for the average pleb gun owner?

The average person doesn't own professional grade anything unless they need it for their own profession.
If fix it sticks are good enough and are a practical solution does it really matter?
 
Question is does it really matter for the average pleb gun owner?

The average person doesn't own professional grade anything unless they need it for their own profession.
If fix it sticks are good enough and are a practical solution does it really matter?
Well it seems a lot of people here spend coin on rifles and optics that are, to use a corny phrase, "professional grade" but then balk at the cost of tools of equal quality and settle for less.
 
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Well it seems a lot of people here spend coin on rifles and optics that are, to use a corny phrase, "professional grade" but then balk at the cost of tools of equal quality and settle for less.

To be fair, people also spend $75k on a nice truck or car and $5k on wheels and then install the lug nuts with a Harbor Freight torque wrench.
 
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Got a wheeler fat wrench. Good thing I first tried it on the scope mount (to the pic rail) and not the scope itself, because it's definitely messed up. Anything above the very lowest setting takes considerable force to turn. Full disclaimer, I bought it on Amazon. Maybe it's fake? But why fake a $30 product?

Anything good out there, preferably made in America (or at least not in China)? Not trying to spend an arm and a leg but I also realize you get what you pay for.
You really need to give better info as to what you are after. If you want a lightweight setup to carry with you on a long hike, then that is a different answer than if you want a long-term tool for your bench. You also need to clarify what is accepatble standards fo raccuracy/precision in the device, and how many life cycles it can handle without recalibration.

If you want lightweight, then the Fit-It setup is about as good as it gets. Thie lightest setup is probably the original Fix-It stuff where you have specific tools for each torwue value. To keep it light, you carry only the tools needed for your specific gun, and nothing else.

But if you want a bench tool, there are better options. Wiha is a German company that makes true industrial-grade tools, engineered and manufactured in Germany. They are going to be much more durable for heavy use than something like a Fix It setup. My bench tool is this kit:


Plus I have added a 1/4" drive adapter to use with sockets. If I need over 50 in-lbs, I have a calibrated torque wrench. If you wanted to keep it all Wiha, they make handles with a higher torque range (18-62in-lbs).

So what is best for you depends on what your needs are in your specific situation.