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Ruger 10/22 Competition Rifle (Ruger Custom Shop)

Nimrod - have you found that your groups are opening back up after cleaning the gun, and the fouling it again with shooting it? I ask because of the way you've labeled your groups. I have not found that my accuracy is decreasing, despite not cleaning my rifle since the I did so when it was brand new. I do find that the first group after changing ammunition may open up, but otherwise I'm finding that its pretty tolerant.
 
Nimrod - have you found that your groups are opening back up after cleaning the gun, and the fouling it again with shooting it? I ask because of the way you've labeled your groups. I have not found that my accuracy is decreasing, despite not cleaning my rifle since the I did so when it was brand new. I do find that the first group after changing ammunition may open up, but otherwise I'm finding that its pretty tolerant.
I have only shot 255 rounds through it, and it was cleaned after the first five. So I can't answer your questions yet. I'll keep it in mind as I go forward.
 
I remembered to take some pictures of groups today, after forgetting the last few times. Shooting at approximately sea level. 44 degrees. 91% relative humidity. Winds 5 gusting 10 and swirling over the range. Tested Center-X; Midas +, and Polar Biathlon (known good ammo for this rifle, but warmer than usual).

First two photos are 10 round groups shot at 50 yards with Polar Biathlon. Third photo is a bunch of crappy groups shooting Midas +. This rifle doesn't love it. The Center X groups from last time were actually better, and the Polar Biathlon groups at 100 are the best I've had yet. Photo four is my sighter target at 300 yards. The last photo is a three round group shooting like I meant it at 300 yards. The 300 yard shots were Polar Biathlon. I would have liked to have kept working at 300, but there were other's at the range and its a long walk for them to wait through while I hang targets.



50 yards - 10 round groups - Polar Biathlon.jpg50 yards - Polar Biathlon - 10 rounds.jpg100 yards - Midas + - 10 round groups.jpg300 yard sighter.jpg300 yard three round group.jpg
 
I remembered to take some pictures of groups today, after forgetting the last few times. Shooting at approximately sea level. 44 degrees. 91% relative humidity. Winds 5 gusting 10 and swirling over the range. Tested Center-X; Midas +, and Polar Biathlon (known good ammo for this rifle, but warmer than usual).

First two photos are 10 round groups shot at 50 yards with Polar Biathlon. Third photo is a bunch of crappy groups shooting Midas +. This rifle doesn't love it. The Center X groups from last time were actually better, and the Polar Biathlon groups at 100 are the best I've had yet. Photo four is my sighter target at 300 yards. The last photo is a three round group shooting like I meant it at 300 yards. The 300 yard shots were Polar Biathlon. I would have liked to have kept working at 300, but there were other's at the range and its a long walk for them to wait through while I hang targets.



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Tight. I like it. Why 300 yards? Just to see if you could?
 
300 is the last berm at the range I was shooting at. There is an a steel plate out there I have been shooting at for a while but thats the first effort at precision.

Should have noted that pic three, the Midas groups were at 100.
 
Late entry, but I managed to get to a longer range a few days ago. 50 yard groups were under an inch, but the wind had my target swaying constantly, and I had only bulk ammo, so nothing special to warrant pics.....maybe next time.
What did surprise me was that the 50 yard shots were on the bullseye without adjustment from my 25 yard initial setup work. I guess the general trajectory of the round is such that 25 and 50 yard point of impact work out to be the same from my gun.
SSHOW Bob, nice work! How much holdover did you have to make for 300 yards?
The best I have available to me now is 100 yards.....
 
Thanks!

I find that with a 50 yard zero I can hold on target at 25. The inverse as you but same outcome.

At 300 I need 50 MOA from my 50 yard zero. Its uphill. Would be 47.5 flat. I dial 45 and hold 5 because I run out of travel.
 
Wow, that’s really lobbing them in there....... I would have thought they would begin to tumble and do strange things by then. I wonder far has anyone been able to maintain a “group” with the 22LR?
I have a couple of long barreled big cartridge guns I am working up for longer ranges, never even considered the 22.......
 
I talked to a visiting shooter to our local NRL22 match that said he'd put 10 rounds on a 12 inch steel at 500 yards with his Vudoo. I've shot at 500 with a Savage B22 and CCI SV and was surprised at how well it did. Once we figured out that a 8 MOA right hold was required, we were hitting about 30%.
 
Wow, that’s really lobbing them in there....... I would have thought they would begin to tumble and do strange things by then.

When I went to retrieve the targets and they were still up against the homasote backer board you could really see how steep the angle of the hole was. No evidence of tumbling - no keyholes, e.g. - but they were coming down as much as in at the point of impact.

I received 200 rounds of SK Long Range this week, and hope to try them out this weekend.

Bill - do you find that some lots of CCI SV are magic and some aren't? Last fall we ran through a lot that was about as tight as any of the expensive stuff we've tried since. Next lot didn't cut it for us.
 
I've not run into any magic lots of CCI SV. But I definitely have run into some lots that are better than others. Today I had a couple of boxes of SK Standard Plus that were worse at 300 yards than average Aguila SV and CCI SV which kinda surprised me. When I get time, I'll need to dig through the Labradar numbers to see what was going on with the velocities.
 
You are absolutely right, of course, but that is not what I have observed. 300 yards flat at my farm takes less elevation that 300 yards slightly uphill at the range. Do not know why.
 
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When I went to retrieve the targets and they were still up against the homasote backer board you could really see how steep the angle of the hole was. No evidence of tumbling - no keyholes, e.g. - but they were coming down as much as in at the point of impact.

I received 200 rounds of SK Long Range this week, and hope to try them out this weekend.

Bill - do you find that some lots of CCI SV are magic and some aren't? Last fall we ran through a lot that was about as tight as any of the expensive stuff we've tried since. Next lot didn't cut it for us.

Sshow bob. I think there may have been a few of those magic lots ran last year. I bought about 2k rounds of CCI SV that were three separate lots and they all shot amazing. I bought them all over about a 2 week period. I recently bought and tested 6 different lots of CCI SV that I just bought and none of them come even close. If I can ever find another lot that shoots like those last year I’m going to buy several cases.
 
That's exactly my experience - really consistent lots, and then inconsistent lots. Haven't found a good one again yet.

I shot the SK Long Range for a little while last weekend and was not favorably impressed. Out of my rifle in the conditions (~50 degrees) they were much less consistent than Center-X. For my rifle, and in the conditions I've had so far, Polar Biathlon is still far and away the best, then Center X, then Midas +, then "magic" CCI.
 
Just wanted to add my experience with the Ruger Competition 10/22.

I bought one a little over a month ago and out of the box I was very happy with it.

It was not too heavy was well balanced and just felt good in the hand.

First trip to the range the first 10 round group (SK Standard Plus) was not much more than one hole at 25 yards.

Then I loaded up 10 rounds of CCI SV and it would not feed a single round. Every round jammed on the edge of the chamber. Even when I managed to get a round in the chamber and fired it the next round would not feed.

When I got home I tried several different varieties of ammo and some worked ok but several would not feed.

I ended up sending it back to Ruger and they replaced the barrel. Also the new barrel was chamfered a bit instead of just a 90 degree angle from the chamber to the face of the barrel. At least Ruger was fast, just about 2 weeks door to door. There is a thread on Rimfire Central with several other folks that have had similar problems.

Since then it has fed and cycled everything I have put in it with just a couple of stove pipes, both with CCI SV. I bought 2500 rounds of CCI SV for this rifle and have not been too happy with it. It is a bit less accurate than the SK Standard Plus and Wolf Match Extra and the rifle seems to run sluggish with it and the brass just trickles out. May be a bit under powered.

In any case, I am very happy with it now. It has been out shooting my CZ 455 VPT with a Lija barrel by a bit. I have not had a chance to go out past 50 yards yet, hope to do so soon.

I'm going to put a bunch of photos on here, most are self explanatory. Let me know if you have any questions.

The scope is a Bushnell Engage 2.5-10x44mm that I picked up used in like new condition. It came with the Leupold cantilever mount which I assumed would be too high but it is just about perfect for me so I may leave it like that even though it leaves the scope pretty high above the bore. Really happy with the scope so far. Pretty nice glass for the price.

On the targets RCC=Ruger Competition Custom

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I haven't got one of these but wanted to echo the Brimstone triggers being awesome. I have one in a SBR and sending off another now..
 
If you'd rather not drop the coin on a completely new trigger assembly, Kidd sells a "Trigger Job Kit" that replaces the trigger parts in a Ruger factory polymer trigger housing for $105. You can order it alone or as a combo with some of their other performance parts such as their trigger pull tuning spring kit, auto bolt release, and magazine plunger upgrade.

It's not as slick as a completely new assembly in an aluminum housing (something they also offer) but it is a great value.
KIDD Trigger job kit is very, very good. Makes a huge improvement over stock Ruger triggers.

OFG
 
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i bought one. had troubles with it failing to cycle properly, failure to eject, smushing fired cases with the bolt, trapping a fired casing in there above the mag, sometimes with a live round in the chamber, kinda dangerous, because theres a round in there ready and you have to safe it, drop the mag, and now its screwed up an unfired round with a dent in the casing next up in the mag, and maybe a live one in the chamber.. i fired no cheap ammunition out of it, no rapid fire, no abuse. cleaned and lightly lubed it after every trip to the range. by lightly i mean a drop of oil on surfaces where metal runs on metal. couldnt get through a 10 rd mag without a failure. It scraped up a few rounds too, that shaving thing improved over time with use. have a few hundred rounds out of it, been cleaned 4-5 times. think I accidentally fixed the smushed case and failure to feed problem, each time I tore it down the buffer fell out during reassembly, it just slides enough out to tick you off, last time I just ordered up a volquartsen buffer, 11.00, it stays in place while you reassemble the rifle after cleaning. Since then its not a bolt action anymore. Took it to an NRL22 event, it ran perfectly, which is a surprise, I totally expected it to fail miserably. i shot eley target at the match, but Id had problems with every single ammunition that I've tried, and I tried everything but bulk i could find, lots of different eley, sk match, cci green tag, that kind of thing. Pretty much everything on the shelf that says match or target.

Trigger felt great, got the rifle to reliably work, then I took the trigger group out and mailed it to brimstone. Trigger is wrong color, I wanted a flat trigger and cerakoted trigger and mag release, yeah I totally did it just for looks. Im not getting the same sweet accuracy the posters above me are getting, my marlin 7000t and 2000 are eating this things lunch, but ive had those longer, so maybe itll improve, maybe the brimstome trigger job will help out, or at least not hurt.
 
Would someone mind posting the height of the rail over the barrel? Much appreciated!
 
Dusty, it was sort of difficult to measure without removing my scope and also the barrel is tapered a bit just below the end of the rail.

It looks like the bottom of the rail is even with the top of the barrel further out and the rail itself is about .375" thick.

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Dusty, it was sort of difficult to measure without removing my scope and also the barrel is tapered a bit just below the end of the rail.

It looks like the bottom of the rail is even with the top of the barrel further out and the rail itself is about .375" thick.

fATT6YYl.jpg


nke2KNpl.jpg

Awesome! Thank you very much.
 
Thanks for the measurements. Looks like I can get some pretty low rings. My scope's diameter is 2.3", assuming I'm measuring correctly -

2.3" / 2 = 1.15", - 0.87 rings, gives me 0.28 drop, so will give me about .1inch clearance from the barrel, enough for some scope caps. Could probably go lower rings.
 
Additionally I'm seeing varying reports of this rifle's accuracy which is a little confusing. I know 10/22 are generally not known for precision rifle shooting. If @sshow bob is a good indication then that's great. I currently own a Tikka T1X Bolt, stock, and I'm shooting 0.9" 6x5's with it using SK Standard Plus, and 0.7" 6x5's using Eley Match. This is @ 100 yards. At 25 yards, I'm averaging, 0.12" groups ~ 0.4moa with it.

So I'm curious if the 10/22 competition is going to be similar. Looking at sshow bob's groups @ 50/100, it looks like it will be, if not even possibly better. The RCC does have a nicer barrel than my pencil barrel Tikka T1X.

It looks like the RCC will be a good NRL22 rifle. It's missing flush cup mounts for a sling which is unfortunate, but at least has a swivel stud for a harris bipod. I wish they put flush cups on the rifle, would be perfect. Alternatively could spend another $170 for the titan stock.

Regarding CCI SV, on my rifles (have the PWS Summit action as well), I'm getting around 1.2" groups, too much spread on velocity so 100 yards has a good amount of fluctuation.
 
Thanks for the insight, Hetman. I got my rifle Monday, and had a chance to shoot it Tuesday night, but only on a 50' indoor range. Hopefully I will have the opportunity to shoot at up to 200 yards on Sunday.

I mounted the scope up using Buris adjustable rings. I used 20 moa in the front and 5 moa in the rear, set to decrease the elevation by 15 degrees. (In other words, both sets of collars set to move the scope up.) Scope is Athlon Helos 6 -24 x 50 (MOA - I know; I think better in MOA) Athlon claims 60 MOA of range. 50 yard zero would mean that I'm halfway below the mid-travel. 150 yards would be mechanism centered. I could get to 270 on the dial.
The rifle feels really good to me. I haven't shot a Kidd, so I cannot compare. The action feels fell machined to tight tolerances - much tighter than my other 10/22. It feels like a well made thing. The trigger is good but not as good, at least on mine. I have a BX on my 10/22TD and its the same animal. This one is better than that one, but then I shoot a friend's cooper and it feels like they stuck a stapler in there instead of a trigger group. I have 200 rounds through it, and its better than it was, but if it doesn't really wear in on Sunday I will put something else in there.

50 feet is no test, so I cannot really comment on what its accuracy is. One hole for as many shots as you want, of course, at that range. Will zero and do a dot drill on Sunday.

SSBob,

I am looking at picking up one of these rifles next week and putting an Athlon Ares BTR 4.5-27x50 on it. How did you decide to use something other than standard rings on the 30 MOA base? I would plan on zeroing at 50yds and stretching it out to 300 as you have. However I am wondering if the 24 Mils (approx 83 MOA) of travel in the scope will let me get away without creating an offset. I am new to all of this and trying to wrap my head around it.
 
SSBob,

I am looking at picking up one of these rifles next week and putting an Athlon Ares BTR 4.5-27x50 on it. How did you decide to use something other than standard rings on the 30 MOA base? I would plan on zeroing at 50yds and stretching it out to 300 as you have. However I am wondering if the 24 Mils (approx 83 MOA) of travel in the scope will let me get away without creating an offset. I am new to all of this and trying to wrap my head around it.

I'm doing the same thing.. picking it up in 2 weeks after the 10 day wait for assault rifles in Washington... I have an Athlon Ares BTR for it as well.

@ 300 yards with CCI SV, it's a 50 MOA drop. With a 30 MOA base, that means you'll only need 20 MOA of adjustment. Looking at the Ares BTR, there's an 80 MOA total elevation adjustment so 40 up/Down.

With the 30 MOA base, you should be able to adjust for 300 yards.
 
littlepod,

Thanks for the reply. I feel comfortable with the scope/rail combo getting out to 300. I am more concerned at the shorter end. It seems as some in the thread have taken some of the 30 moa elevation out with the use of offsetting rings to be able to get the rifle on & sighted at 50 yards. Again, I am rather new to this and I could be misinterpreting what is going on. I simply want to go through the scope mounting process once as opposed to having to redo it due to my own ignorance.
 
littlepod,

Thanks for the reply. I feel comfortable with the scope/rail combo getting out to 300. I am more concerned at the shorter end. It seems as some in the thread have taken some of the 30 moa elevation out with the use of offsetting rings to be able to get the rifle on & sighted at 50 yards. Again, I am rather new to this and I could be misinterpreting what is going on. I simply want to go through the scope mounting process once as opposed to having to redo it due to my own ignorance.

I'm not sure about offsetting rings. I have 20-30 moa bases on all by 22 rifles and have no problem. I'm zeroed at 25 yards.

With 80 moa of travel you have enough adjustments to do everything.

In older cheaper scopes where maybe the total travel is 40 moa then yes there might be issues since you won't have enough adjustments to adjust low enough for a 25 yd zero.
 
I'm not sure about offsetting rings. I have 20-30 moa bases on all by 22 rifles and have no problem. I'm zeroed at 25 yards.

With 80 moa of travel you have enough adjustments to do everything.

In older cheaper scopes where maybe the total travel is 40 moa then yes there might be issues since you won't have enough adjustments to adjust low enough for a 25 yd zero.

Thanks littlepod, that makes sense. Since you are looking at the same setup, can I ask what rings you plan to go with?
 
I got the Vortex Pro 30mm 0.9" high - https://bluelineoptics.com/product/vortex-pro-rifle-scope-rings-30mm/

I believe I can go lower, but I haven't exactly measured it all out yet. Someone mentioned 0.375" is the height from the barrel to the rail. Ares BTR is 2.3" in diameter so 1.15. Scope caps add another .1" so I'd say to be somewhere like 1.25

So let's say 1.25" - .375 = 0.875 minimum height rings. 0.9" should work.
 
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So let's say 1.25" - .375 = 0.875 minimum height rings. 0.9" should work.

There's also 30 moa of slant you'll have to consider. Would you mind following up with your results using those 0.90" rings? That's a good reference to have.
 
Picked mine up this morning. Rings should arrive today.

Ruger demonstrates the proper way to install a bipod stud. I wish CZ would go this route, especially since they're all about nice wood.
7121523
 
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Casually did a 6x5 with Eley Tenex @ 100 yards on the first outing of the rifle. Trigger needs help... mushy, 2.5 lbs. Not the worst trigger, but compared to my Tikka's crisp 1lb trigger, or my Timney 2-stage, either would do a lot better. Gun is pretty darn light as well, and the stock has a rounded/sloped bottom which made riding the bag a little more difficult, but overall this thing can shoot really well.


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I've owned the stainless version for about a month.
It shoots fairly well but nothing to brag about.
Mine has developed chronic failure to extract problems.
Almost threw it downrange yesterday but didn't want to destroy the Razor red dot mounted on it.
Ordered a Volquartsen extractor/firing pin combo last night; hope that takes care of the issue.
If not, I hope I remember to remove the Razor before sending it downrange. :)
 
Received the Volquartsen firing pin/extractor on Friday and installed them.
Shot the rifle Saturday morning with one misfire but zero failures to extract in 200 rounds. (y)
The Volquartsen extractor is far superior to the Ruger's and is a winner in my book! :cool:
 
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Good evening, everyone. I am sorry to have dropped out of the conversation. Long summer of competing demands. I am back shooting.

I shot through April, successfully. We held an informal NRL22 day at the range with the April course of fire. The rifle was consistent enough to clean several stages. Then other demands popped up and I only shot occasionally.

Rifle stopped extracting reliably, as others have reported. Disassembled and cleaned it. I had at least 2000 rounds through it by that point and it was embarrassingly dirty. Cleaned it up and it went back to cycling properly, but accuracy was off.

This past weekend we tried to shoot, but accuracy was terrible. I was getting sub MOA at 50 and 100 vertically, but 4 MOA strings horizontally. We were shooting off a ladder or my SXS, so the rest wasn't perfect, but if motion were accounting for it, I would think we'd have seen vertical issues as well as horizontal. I hope to get to the range this weekend. I am hoping to find a torque issue, rather than a bad scope or worn out rifle.

SSB
 
Just got the word hat my Vudoo is ready for pick up . Test group with center x was .26 . Will pick it up tomorrow and hopefully head to the range pictures and description to follow

Sorry guys this was susposed to go on the Vudoo sub forum. Interested to see if the Vudoo outshoot my bull barrel Volquarsten
 
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Went out and tried out CCI Green Tag today... The 10/22 competition absolutely loves it. Tried Green Tag in my Tikka T1X and it absolutely did not love it... So it looks like CCI SV/Green Tag wil be a good combo for the 10/22 for practice & competition. The POI's are slightly off, but close enough.
 
That is a good looking rifle!

Thanks! After running it through a few competitions, I really cannot stand the BX Trigger, especially after being behind some really good triggers.

I just upgraded to the KIDD single stage trigger and have it set to 1.5lbs. WOW this is AMAZING, and totally worth it.
 
The Kidd trigger is about as good as it gets. It is something special.I like mine a-lot.
 
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100 yard sighter and then two groups of five at 100. Tenex. Last Saturday. No wind. Prone supported on bipod and rear bag.