After 3600 rounds I’m still seeing 1/2 MOA from my factory barrel all the way out to 600 with 190 SMK. Sometimes sub 1/2 MOA at 600. Opens up a little at 800 and 1000 but I think that’s more me. I would 100% recommend it.
After 3600 rounds I’m still seeing 1/2 MOA from my factory barrel all the way out to 600 with 190 SMK. Sometimes sub 1/2 MOA at 600. Opens up a little at 800 and 1000 but I think that’s more me. I would 100% recommend it.
Ok well great to know you are getting out there well past 1000 nicely.
So they only come in a medium profile barrel?
As far as I know, yes. But with a 20” barrel you’re not looking at much flex, if any at all. I try not to make a habit of it, but I can fire mine until you can fry an egg on it and it’s still extremely accurate. You can always eBay the factory barrel and use that $$$ towards plenty of drop in match grade barrels out there
Ditto (including round count)
I'm heading to a match in a few weeks shooting much farther than I am used to. I have the RPR in 300 WM and while it shoots great at 600 this match will have targets out to 1800. Any advice on available factory loads for that distance would be appreciated too.
This match will be a learning experience for sure.
This match will be a learning experience for sure.
I've had 2 RPS, the first was a Gen 1 in 308 and the second is a Gen 2 in 223.
I got the 223, not because I was particularly impressed with the 308, but because it used AI format mags, so I could load long VLDs and feed from a mag.
I was so pleased that Ruger offered the rifle in 223 in this format and they throated the barrel so Hornady 75 grain ELDs would jam with an OAL of 2.500", or about 0.25" longer than SAMMI spec, which is awesome.
I can pretty much run tricked out 223 VLD ammo from a mag... so that's really cool.
Then Ruger discontinued the rifle in 223... that really blows.
I guess there aren't that many hand loaders out there who liked the rifle that way. I mean if you just buy ammo, you probably would never have noticed.
But I am surprised that the 223 apparently wasn't a big hit for Ruger as the RPR makes a good practice rifle and 223 a good practice chamber.
I got the 223, not because I was particularly impressed with the 308, but because it used AI format mags, so I could load long VLDs and feed from a mag.
I was so pleased that Ruger offered the rifle in 223 in this format and they throated the barrel so Hornady 75 grain ELDs would jam with an OAL of 2.500", or about 0.25" longer than SAMMI spec, which is awesome.
I can pretty much run tricked out 223 VLD ammo from a mag... so that's really cool.
Then Ruger discontinued the rifle in 223... that really blows.
I guess there aren't that many hand loaders out there who liked the rifle that way. I mean if you just buy ammo, you probably would never have noticed.
But I am surprised that the 223 apparently wasn't a big hit for Ruger as the RPR makes a good practice rifle and 223 a good practice chamber.
If you are interested in helping the RPR bolt run smoother, just polish the slot on the left side of the bolt.
The tool marks in the slot, grab onto the bolt release lever on the left side, but if you polish that slot it really makes a difference.
I used a stone about 100 grit, but you could even use emery paper on a stick.
It wont hurt if you break the sharp corner either (where the slot meets the O.D.) and that keeps the bolt from biting into the bolt release lever.
The tool marks in the slot, grab onto the bolt release lever on the left side, but if you polish that slot it really makes a difference.
I used a stone about 100 grit, but you could even use emery paper on a stick.
It wont hurt if you break the sharp corner either (where the slot meets the O.D.) and that keeps the bolt from biting into the bolt release lever.
Thank u brother it was a fun project for sure.
Surprised you didnt upgrade the bolt knob. I didn't think it would matter much but I'm glad I did.
I got one but didn’t ever put it on, I was just doing a test against a upgraded rpr vs stock rpr in same caliber. Lol I wasted about 2500 bucks
I'm consistently hitting at 1500 ya5ds with my 6.5 cm
140 eld @ 2730fps
1700 rounds factory barrel
Need to find a range where I can shoot a mile now haha
Man I like the sound of that! IPSC?
24" plate at 1500
Then we have a 8" gong at 1300
The gong is a challenge in the wind for sure
Hi folks!
This might sound like a stupid question, and forgive me if it is. But if I have a Ruger Precision Rifle in 300 PRC, then how hard would it be to convert to 6.5 PRC or 6.5 SAUM? Is it just a matter of a different barrel and headspacing? Also, what happens with the magazine?
Thanks!
This might sound like a stupid question, and forgive me if it is. But if I have a Ruger Precision Rifle in 300 PRC, then how hard would it be to convert to 6.5 PRC or 6.5 SAUM? Is it just a matter of a different barrel and headspacing? Also, what happens with the magazine?
Thanks!
You would need the barrel but also the bolt face would have to be the correct size as well. I’m not sure about the mag for those calibers as I’ve never owned any of them
Well, I know they are both magnum rounds, isn't there a standard width? As for the magazine, the 6.5 PRC and SAUM are shorter than the 300 PRC. But I was wondering if they'd still work in a 300 PRC Magazine?
Thanks!
6.5 PRC, 6.5 SAUM, and 300 PRC all share the same .535" +/- bolt face. It may feed like shit though just because there is so much room for the saum and 6.5 PRC to move around in the CIP mag. However, there is a chance you may get lucky and it works just fine.
If you don't have the 300prc yet, Ruger does have the RPR available in 6.5prc and I believe it is on the smaller frame and using WSM mags.
Thank you for the reply!
I'm a minimalist so I suppose what I'm trying to do is just have one rifle for magnum calibers. If I can change the caliber through a barrel change and headspacing then it might work out better for me to just get the 300PRC and then use 6.5 PRC or 6.5 SAUM in there, but the concern you raised about the magazine is exactly the concern I have.
I am also considering a TL3 L/A but that would be extra expense and the RPR seems like a good rifle.
Keep in mind, the same concerns you have with the 6.5prc/ 300prc would apply to anything else, like the TL3/SR3. Barrel changes would be easier on the TL3 and cheaper as well. There are a few chassis that also do have spacers to use 3.715" mags instead. The ultimate question is just really what you feel your time is worth.
Just an idea but if you really felt compelled in taking a minimalist approach, you may be able to make a spacer from polymer, kydex, or see if someone has a 3D printer for the CIP mag to limit the travel of a SAUM or PRC. I've considered picking up one of the big RPR's, even though I don't face the same dilema, I do have a few idea's for a solution and may look into it then.
Just spent a week reading the entire thread, very inspiring!
After a lot of load development, I finally have a satisfactory .308 load at 100 yards for my Gen1 RPR. 168gr Midsouth Match Monsters (performs exactly the same as 168 SMK) with 42.0 gr of Shooter's World Precision Rifle (Varget clone, supposedly). I'm getting 0.4-0.5 MOA 5-rd groups at 100 yards with a SWFA 4x scope, bone stock RPR.
I want to try a local PRS-style competition (200-500yd) but I have never shot past 300yd and I don't know how my loads will perform at those ranges. Without buying a chrono, is there any way to estimate performance out to 300+ ranges? I won't be able to practice beyond 300 before the match and I can't spend $$$ on a good chrono right now.
Any tips?
After a lot of load development, I finally have a satisfactory .308 load at 100 yards for my Gen1 RPR. 168gr Midsouth Match Monsters (performs exactly the same as 168 SMK) with 42.0 gr of Shooter's World Precision Rifle (Varget clone, supposedly). I'm getting 0.4-0.5 MOA 5-rd groups at 100 yards with a SWFA 4x scope, bone stock RPR.
I want to try a local PRS-style competition (200-500yd) but I have never shot past 300yd and I don't know how my loads will perform at those ranges. Without buying a chrono, is there any way to estimate performance out to 300+ ranges? I won't be able to practice beyond 300 before the match and I can't spend $$$ on a good chrono right now.
Any tips?
If you have a smartphone you could use a ballistics app like Strelok to do some calculations using info that you collect at 300 yds. By measuring the drop difference between 100 yds and 300 yards, you can make adjustments until you get that number (amount of drop) and that should give you a verily good idea of what your MV is. Then it should also give you some idea what to expect out to 500+ yds as you look at its chart.
IMHO, base on the premise that you can't hit what you can't see . . . you might consider going with a scope that's more than 4X ???
I’ve shot 168 gr SMK bullets on 42.1 gr varget very well at 600 yards. Beyond that I use the 190 gr SMK. I also think you should look into a higher power scope. I use the SWFA 20x42 cause I mostly shoot long range. For PRS you may want to consider at least the 10x42 or a variable power
How is a fixed mag scope for PRS? Is it difficult to find targets? The SWFA 12x for $300 isn't bad, I am afraid of over-magnifying with a 20x. Is a variable power such a great help? I have used 3-9x and 4-12x scopes in the past but ditched them since I just kept them on one setting most of the time. It also costs at least 3x more than a comparable fixed scope...
Straightshooter1, thanks for the Strelok tip, I'll check it out.
Straightshooter1, thanks for the Strelok tip, I'll check it out.
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I would think the 20x may be too much in some cases. You’d probably be fine with the 12x, but I’d wait for someone who shoots PRS to chime in. Also I second Strelok. Been using it for years.
I am new to the forum. Thank you all for such great info. I shoot the 6mm creedmoor RPR. Last weekend I went to a local 200 yard match. To my surprise I was told I had to remove my muzzle break or put up deflector shields on the firing line. I decided to remove my break and shoot. I could tell recoil was increased alot. Anyone else have this issue at a shoot. This is a monthy shoot. I am trying to decide, do I keep my break removed or put up shields and reinstall.
I also recently shot a local match and although my "neighbors" mentioned they had some issues with the brake, no one really complained and it will remain intact. I do plan to make a couple deflectors before the next match. The league official basically said "hey, they can run a brake too if they like, same as you". I'm just trying to be neighborly. Guess it depends on the rules and how you want to handle it.
I’ve shot some fclass matches and because you all line up prone next to each other, muzzle brakes or devices of any kind are not supposed to be allowed in fclass. May depend on the range though but I think it is actually an official rule. Never shot PRS though.
Link to NRA Highpower Rulebook pdf
The prohibition on brakes and suppressors can be found in the rulebook for the NRA Highpower matches. A lot of match directors will put shooters with brakes to the end of the firing line. You technically are shooting out of competition and those scores should also not be sent in for classification or record purposes.
The prohibition on brakes and suppressors can be found in the rulebook for the NRA Highpower matches. A lot of match directors will put shooters with brakes to the end of the firing line. You technically are shooting out of competition and those scores should also not be sent in for classification or record purposes.
In PRS anything goes as far as brakes. I run a Hellfire on mine, and it is not friendly to those next to it.
As far as scope magnification; I tend to run around 15-18x and back it down quite a bit when searching for targets, then back up to where I’m comfortable. 12x is doable but you will be at a disadvantage.
As far as scope magnification; I tend to run around 15-18x and back it down quite a bit when searching for targets, then back up to where I’m comfortable. 12x is doable but you will be at a disadvantage.
Yup. I do the practices. I dont really do competitions. But any of us with brakes line up separately all the way to the left side of the line.
If I'm just looking at factory ammo, probably Hornady, does the Gen3 RPR shoot the 140 or 147 better? My google-fu isn't giving me an answer.
I don't have a Gen 3 but good results can be had with either one. I'd recommend buying a box of each and seeing which one yours likes better.
I'm interested in this as well. Anybody have an idea?
Plano all weather tactical
I have pelican Vault V800 for my RPR.
Mine fits in the pelican, Plano all weather, and some random case
I have a trick for this that I've never seen anyone use besides myself....
I have no problem at all running at 24X because I do this...
Most PRS shooters get used to running at reduced magnification to widen the field of view so they can find the target faster.
The reduced magnification however costs them in precise target acquisition.
Some guys will run a red dot on a pic rail on the top scope ring, but then they have to head bob up and down between the scope and red dot to find the target. It also increases the vertical height of the rifle making it harder in confined spaces.
So my solution requires the addition of a scope ring picatinny rail that only mounts to the scope and I rotate to about 9:00 or 9:30
To that I mount a short riser block and to that I mount a Vortex red dot.
The riser block increases the distance from the scope far enough that I can see the red dot with my left eye while looking through the magnified optic with my right eye.
I don't need to head bob to find the target, I just focus on left eye to acquire, then concentrate on my right to shoot.
It would be nice if someone produced a proper setup for this where we could shim the height of the red dot to precisely align with the individual shooters space between the eyes. But this system seems to work pretty good even if it's not the exact right spacing.
Here's a pic from my CZ452 set up as described.
Attachments
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For an adjustable riser, I think this might work if the red dot is low enough profile...
Amazon.com: Monstrum Lockdown Series Adjustable Height Picatinny Riser Mount | 1.75 inch: Sports & Outdoors
Amazon.com: Monstrum Lockdown Series Adjustable Height Picatinny Riser Mount | 1.75 inch: Sports & Outdoors
www.amazon.com
Does anyone else find the rail on the bottom of the stock pretty rough on the hands? If not the hands it seems like it would wear it's way through the rear bag. I don't notice it much on the bench but prone I really notice it. I've seen some rail covers on amazon and such. I am curious what other use.
I think I had one of those Ergo skeletonized rail ladders on mine before I switched the stock for a magpul prs. I prefer the railed rpr bottom to my prs as a bag rider though
There are some folks that make bag riders that mount to the pic rail. I purchased a 3D printed one. Haven't tried it yet but it seems like it should work well.
Took my 6 cm out to 600 (left) and 850 (right). 1/2 MOA and 3/4 MOA respectively on a 100° day with horrific mirage. I was greatly surprised as a few pages ago I posted how this rifle chews up the bullets on chambering. 107 SMK somewhere around 2975 fps.
My 308 RPR seems to just hate ELD’s with a passion. But it sure is liking old school BTHP’s. I’ve had a good load with 168’s and this past weekend I worked up some 175 CC’s. The 44gr load shot great. SD of just over 7. And workable average velocity of 2555
Nice, I started reloading last year. I've only done two cartridges, 243 and 6mm CM. Both times I used the 107 SMK which is a bthp I believe. It's given me great results. I chose it because supposedly they're not seating depth sensitive and I didn't feel like messing with that.
I burned through about 40 eld’s Trying to find a decent charge, and found nothing with velocity consistency. Then tried a smaller range with 3 different seating depths, much closer to the lands, and still couldn’t get either consistent velocity or accuracy. I kept trying at different weights since so many people had success.
I don’t know what it is. Even with the 6.5 factory eld ammo in my tikka. Match eld factory ammo shoots horribly compared to factory American gunner.
I don’t know what it is. Even with the 6.5 factory eld ammo in my tikka. Match eld factory ammo shoots horribly compared to factory American gunner.
Same here with my 6.5 RPR. The best load (and I use the term best very loosely) was 41.6 gn of H4350 with 140 eldm jumping .030 thou. It was absolutely terrible.
Best pill ended up being the Berger vld target 140 gn. with 39.3 gn of h4350. Shooting .3 MOA 5 shot groups consistently out to 700 yards. Not the velocity I was really looking for but anxious to see how it groups at and above 1k yards.
Best pill ended up being the Berger vld target 140 gn. with 39.3 gn of h4350. Shooting .3 MOA 5 shot groups consistently out to 700 yards. Not the velocity I was really looking for but anxious to see how it groups at and above 1k yards.
Hey everyone,
Recently relocated to Savannah. New to the site. One of my long range guns is a 1st gen RPR in 6.5 CM. I have a Vortex Gen 2 ready to mount as soon as I move into my new digs. I am a member of a 525 yard range that runs matches as well. I plan on reading the entire thread for all the great advice on reloading, etc.... If anyone is local, and wants to shoot at my club, let me know....
Recently relocated to Savannah. New to the site. One of my long range guns is a 1st gen RPR in 6.5 CM. I have a Vortex Gen 2 ready to mount as soon as I move into my new digs. I am a member of a 525 yard range that runs matches as well. I plan on reading the entire thread for all the great advice on reloading, etc.... If anyone is local, and wants to shoot at my club, let me know....
