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Ruger Precision Rimfire

So I got the Lothar-Walther barrel mounted up and took it to the indoor range to break it in. I only got about 50 shots down the tube but it is looking promising. I did not feel like I was holding very good but there are a few tight groups in there that are encouraging.

With the Stock barrel I never got anything this good even with high end ammo. Hopefully with some more testing I can hone in on a good consistent performing ammo combination. I hope to get some more rounds down the tube this weekend. I will post some more groups after that..
 

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got some more time with the RPRR and the new Lothar-Walther Barrel today. I have about 150rds down the tube and I think it is starting to settle in some. I cleaned it before this session for the first time but it was not very dirty. I did have some problems with the Eley Club not extracting but no issues today after the cleaning. Also I think I am getting better at shooting this off the shaky bench.. :)
 

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Mine is having issues extract spent casings from my match chamber barrel.

Any idea if the extractors are the same as the ruger American rimfire extractor?

Or is there a way to reshape it better?

Mine is shooting about 1/2”@50 5 shot groups with midgrade ammo (RWS subsonic hollowpoints)

below is a picture fromTuesday session. Wing was blowing from my 8’o clock at 5-20mph.
Most groups are like this as long as I load the stock the same way each time.
 
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After having this rife in 22LR since the launch over a year ago, I finally decided to try to resolve the accuracy issues. Thanks to elfster1234 and others who helped identify some of the root cause of the problems. My bedding and magazine alignment were an issue as all the bullets were getting nicked on the way into the chamber. With some foil ape and a little bit of sanding, I finally got the action working great. I started using the rotary mags as well since they had a much tighter fit (although some foil tape on the BX15 solved it's issue).

I've spent the last month shooting 20+ types of ammo and will publish 6 x 5's of the top ten soon. For the time being, here are a couple targets with various Eley ammo. These are 5 shot groups shot in quick succession as I was just trying to get relative feedback on the bedding and magwell work I completed. The target dots are 1/2 inch. This was my first outing after the changes but I've since been out to do some more detailed testing. It was a cold day with slight wind gusts. I'm pretty happy with the results since it initially shot 1in groups at 50yds.

I plan on publishing a couple videos and a dozen 6 x 5's in the comming week.

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After having this rife in 22LR since the launch over a year ago, I finally decided to try to resolve the accuracy issues. Thanks to elfster1234 and others who helped identify some of the root cause of the problems. My bedding and magazine alignment were an issue as all the bullets were getting nicked on the way into the chamber. With some foil ape and a little bit of sanding, I finally got the action working great. I started using the rotary mags as well since they had a much tighter fit (although some foil tape on the BX15 solved it's issue).

I've spent the last month shooting 20+ types of ammo and will publish 6 x 5's of the top ten soon. For the time being, here are a couple targets with various Eley ammo. These are 5 shot groups shot in quick succession as I was just trying to get relative feedback on the bedding and magwell work I completed. The target dots are 1/2 inch. This was my first outing after the changes but I've since been out to do some more detailed testing. It was a cold day with slight wind gusts. I'm pretty happy with the results since it initially shot 1in groups at 50yds.

I plan on publishing a couple videos and a dozen 6 x 5's in the comming week.

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When I look at the 50yd results it looks VERY much like what I've experienced with the Eley products I've used ( the Eley Club, Eley Contat, Eley Match, CCI Greentag that's shown). Greentag was a huge disappointment (had bought a brick of it, expecting it to do well) as it grouped jut awful (Mini-Mags did much better). The Eley Club did so well, much like what's shown here, I went out and bought a few bricks of the same lot and have been happy with it since (especially at the price point). The Eley Match did well, like what's shown here, for me too and bought a bunch of that also. Two other cartridges did as well, actually better, was Center-X and Federal Ultrimatch . . . so yes, I got a bunch of that too. :cool: :giggle:
 
Anyone know of any extractor mods?

might try and see if I can swap the extractor out of my RAR and see if that helps
 
Anyone know of any extractor mods?

might try and see if I can swap the extractor out of my RAR and see if that helps

what's your issue? just that it won't extract out of a match chamber? bend the spring clip more. I literally did this exact thing this morning. the extract is too loose. so i compressed the spring clip a little bit and put it back on and i havent had an extractor problem for the next 200 or so rounds i put down the pipe today






Attached are photos of the small test i did with the International barrels 22" barrel i recently received.
 

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what's your issue? just that it won't extract out of a match chamber? bend the spring clip more. I literally did this exact thing this morning. the extract is too loose. so i compressed the spring clip a little bit and put it back on and i havent had an extractor problem for the next 200 or so rounds i put down the pipe today






Attached are photos of the small test i did with the International barrels 22" barrel i recently received.


thanks for the tip.

I’ll have to give that a try. I’ve been cleaning the chamber every 50 rounds or so (thought it was the match chamber and wax coated bullets causing issues).

The spent casings keep getting stuck after being fired and I have to reach up and remove them by hand
If that doesn’t work (bending the clip spring) maybe I will look at the extractor itself
 
Anyone know of any extractor mods?

might try and see if I can swap the extractor out of my RAR and see if that helps

By far, most of the issues are with the ejector spring rather than the extractor. As I modified my ejector spring to have a tighter fit on a cartridge, I also sharpened up the tip of the extractor and also changed the interior angle of the extractor tip so the sharpened tip put a good grip on the case rim.

Before I did the little mod to the ejector spring, I swapped out the one from my Ruger American Rimfire as it was the same. When I did that, I had the same problem with ejecting as I had with my RPRR, so I knew then the problem was really that ejector spring. After the mods, I've not had a single FTE . . . though the ejection isn't strong, it's good enough and so I'm leaving it alone (if it ain't broken, don't try and fix it, kind of thing ? ). :giggle:
 
thanks for the tip.

I’ll have to give that a try. I’ve been cleaning the chamber every 50 rounds or so (thought it was the match chamber and wax coated bullets causing issues).

The spent casings keep getting stuck after being fired and I have to reach up and remove them by hand
If that doesn’t work (bending the clip spring) maybe I will look at the extractor itself


I too had the same thought as you! This new match barrel stuff to me i didn't understand and the effects it had. but i'm telling you just take the spring clip off, push down on it to bend it slightly more (not much, just more than factory) and put it back on. i did the fix no joke this morning!
 
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what's your issue? just that it won't extract out of a match chamber? bend the spring clip more. I literally did this exact thing this morning. the extract is too loose. so i compressed the spring clip a little bit and put it back on and i havent had an extractor problem for the next 200 or so rounds i put down the pipe today






Attached are photos of the small test i did with the International barrels 22" barrel i recently received.

What reamer did they use on your international barrel?

Mine didn't like SK rifle match or any Eley ammo. It liked SK Pistol Match Special and Center-X.

Mine's shooting .6" at 100 yards so I'd expect yours to shoot in the .3's consistently at 50.
 
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By far, most of the issues are with the ejector spring rather than the extractor. As I modified my ejector spring to have a tighter fit on a cartridge, I also sharpened up the tip of the extractor and also changed the interior angle of the extractor tip so the sharpened tip put a good grip on the case rim.

Before I did the little mod to the ejector spring, I swapped out the one from my Ruger American Rimfire as it was the same. When I did that, I had the same problem with ejecting as I had with my RPRR, so I knew then the problem was really that ejector spring. After the mods, I've not had a single FTE . . . though the ejection isn't strong, it's good enough and so I'm leaving it alone (if it ain't broken, don't try and fix it, kind of thing ? ). :giggle:

Here are some pictures before I bend it.
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What reamer did they use on your international barrel?

Mine didn't like SK rifle match or any Eley ammo. It liked SK Pistol Match Special and Center-X.

Mine's shooting .6" at 100 yards so I'd expect yours to shoot in the .3's consistently at 50.

That's a great question. At the time i didn't know what reamers were available. (was never given an option) so i emailed to ask and will reply once i know!



You wont see any change after you bend the spring clip. you will feel it when you try to pull the extractor out. Mind you dont bend the tip. take the spring clip off and just push down on it,
 
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What reamer did they use on your international barrel?

Mine didn't like SK rifle match or any Eley ammo. It liked SK Pistol Match Special and Center-X.

Mine's shooting .6" at 100 yards so I'd expect yours to shoot in the .3's consistently at 50.


So my barrel has the Win 52D reamer in it

I'll be doing a massive match only ammo test in the spring to see what it likes the most
 

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Just got my RPRR and am following a large portion of the great advice im seeing here. I haven't got any rounds through it yet,and seeing all the tests with all the ammo, and biggest question is, lead or plated? What are the advantages and disadvantages? does it matter switching between them, or stick with 1 type? i know each rifle will "like" a certain ammo better, but should I stick to the lead spectrum or plated spectrum before i put anything through?
 
I don’t know if anyone using plated ammo, and most subsonic ammo seems to be lead.

Personally, Center X seems to be almost universally usable match ammo, and SK Standard Plus makes great practice ammo with a very similar ballistic profile to Center X.
 
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Just got my RPRR and am following a large portion of the great advice im seeing here. I haven't got any rounds through it yet,and seeing all the tests with all the ammo, and biggest question is, lead or plated? What are the advantages and disadvantages? does it matter switching between them, or stick with 1 type? i know each rifle will "like" a certain ammo better, but should I stick to the lead spectrum or plated spectrum before i put anything through?

Sounds like the rifle was a Christmas present.
The plated ammo you're talking about is really more of a copper wash than a plating, and is found on plinking and the supersonic ammo. Subsonic ammo, used for target and match shooting normally has a wax coating on it. It's normally found that for your rifle to shoot it's best (most accurate), it needs to "season" the full length of the barrel with the wax. The rule of thumb is that when starting with a clean barrel, you need to shoot one of the wax covered bullet for every inch of barrel before the barrel is seasoned.
Realize that any supersonic rimfire ammo goes subsonic below (approximately) 1116 ft/sec, (at 59 degrees f), so if it started out at say 1280 FPS, it goes subsonic at around 50 yards. But if your hunting squirrels, the extra energy the round has when it's supersonic has better stopping power, especially if it's a hollowpoint. And at under 50 yds, it's accurate enough for hunting. If it's plated ammo, theres no wax to come off and mess up your pocket, but hypersonic ammo doesn't buck the wind as well as subsonic ammo.

I have a borescope, and when I first looked at my RPR barrel, I noticed the were burrs in the lead area. When they cut the chamber, they either had a dull reamer, or cut it to fast, etc, as there were burrs on the end of the rifling that slopped over into the groves where the lead is located. My rifle never shot it's best until those burrs were removed. I did this by shooting 3 or 4 boxes of hypersonic ammo through it and they either shot out or greatly reduced the burrs. It'll take several hundred rounds before your barrel begins to shoot it's best.

Enjoy the trip.
 
Sounds like the rifle was a Christmas present.
The plated ammo you're talking about is really more of a copper wash than a plating, and is found on plinking and the supersonic ammo. Subsonic ammo, used for target and match shooting normally has a wax coating on it. It's normally found that for your rifle to shoot it's best (most accurate), it needs to "season" the full length of the barrel with the wax. The rule of thumb is that when starting with a clean barrel, you need to shoot one of the wax covered bullet for every inch of barrel before the barrel is seasoned.
Realize that any supersonic rimfire ammo goes subsonic below (approximately) 1116 ft/sec, (at 59 degrees f), so if it started out at say 1280 FPS, it goes subsonic at around 50 yards. But if your hunting squirrels, the extra energy the round has when it's supersonic has better stopping power, especially if it's a hollowpoint. And at under 50 yds, it's accurate enough for hunting. If it's plated ammo, theres no wax to come off and mess up your pocket, but hypersonic ammo doesn't buck the wind as well as subsonic ammo.

I have a borescope, and when I first looked at my RPR barrel, I noticed the were burrs in the lead area. When they cut the chamber, they either had a dull reamer, or cut it to fast, etc, as there were burrs on the end of the rifling that slopped over into the groves where the lead is located. My rifle never shot it's best until those burrs were removed. I did this by shooting 3 or 4 boxes of hypersonic ammo through it and they either shot out or greatly reduced the burrs. It'll take several hundred rounds before your barrel begins to shoot it's best.

Enjoy the trip.

So, start with the lead( elfster seems to have best luck with cci sv, i may try first) run a shit ton through it (500 rds or so) and if im not getting good grouping, run some plated through to "clean up any burring" then run back on lead. sounds simple enough, thanks for the advice, this is the first foray into a "precision" platform. ive had many weapon systems over the years, either for self defence, plinking, trap or in the military( m16 and m60), nothing requiring true care when trying to do real accuracy. I will probably never hunt squirrel or anything else with this weapon as i purpose bought it for targets and will try to get into some kind of competition. I truly appreciate any and all advice. Thank you
 
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The factory barrel wasn’t too bad on the rifle. However I found that a Lilja barrel actually was a bit better. (I’m not sure the expense of the Liljia barrel was justified)...

My one big complaint about the rifle is that the stock extended is anything but steady.

overall I think the rifle is a big pass compared to other options....
 
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The factory barrel wasn’t too bad on the rifle. However I found that a Lilja barrel actually was a bit better. (I’m not sure the expense of the Liljia barrel was justified)...

My one big complaint about the rifle is that the stock wonderful extended is anything but steady.

overall I think the rifle is a big pass compared to other options....
The stock is plastic, true, but I’m a big dude, and I don’t have any issues with it flexing in a way that causes issues. I’m averaging .8-1.1” groups at 100yds, and shot a 3” group at 234 last weekend.

Would I buy a different platform if I was starting over? Maybe so. But that’s more due to aftermarket support being limited to date, than the rifle itself.
 
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Yeah, i was getting about 1 inch at 100 yards (from a strapped rest, with a Timney trigger).

That got much better with the Lilja barrel... about .6. At 25 yards they were the same hole, and at 50 they are touching each other.

Obviously, the ammo between the OEM and Lilja barrels is completely different. (The CCI nylon coated stuff worked great in the OEM barrel, but only the sub-sonic stuff works well in the Lilja barrel.
 
I'm looking at purchasing the RPRR and shooting in the NRL Base class this year. I have the RPR in 6.5 CM and shoot PRS so this would be a good transition rifle. I've read and watched You Tube vids on upgrades but I have a question on the bedding process using HVAC tape. Question is: has anybody tried bedding the stock like you would a rifle barrel using regular bedding compound? May be a stupid question as I've only looked at the RPRR and not taken one apart, but seems like a better alternative.
 
I'm looking at purchasing the RPRR and shooting in the NRL Base class this year. I have the RPR in 6.5 CM and shoot PRS so this would be a good transition rifle. I've read and watched You Tube vids on upgrades but I have a question on the bedding process using HVAC tape. Question is: has anybody tried bedding the stock like you would a rifle barrel using regular bedding compound? May be a stupid question as I've only looked at the RPRR and not taken one apart, but seems like a better alternative.

I bedded mine with the aluminum from a pop cans I felt it was a little thicker than the hvac tape and I thought it would hold the action a little firmer. Later, after I purchased a Shaw barrel I rebedded it again in the same manner, but added some shims at the rear of the barrel. At the rear of the barrel, there are a pair of cutouts on each side of the barrel that fit into tabs on each side of the stock. I shimmed the tabs with aluminum and glued them to the stock so that the barrel fits tighter into theses tabs. I figured the tabs act as a recoil leg as well as well as a fitment device for locating the barrel in the proper location.

To answer your question fully, I think it would be possible to use some epoxy as a "skim" bedding along the sides of the action and in the area where the classic tabs fit into the stock.
I'm thinking about using some locktight were the barrel sets into the action.
In addition to the RPR, I've got a CZ 455 and the Tika T1. The RPR is my favoriteThe quality of the other rifles is better, but my RPR with the Shaw barrel edges them out for accuracy,
 
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I bedded mine with the aluminum from a pop cans I felt it was a little thicker than the hvac tape and I thought it would hold the action a little firmer. Later, after I purchased a Shaw barrel I rebedded it again in the same manner, but added some shims at the rear of the barrel. At the rear of the barrel, there are a pair of cutouts on each side of the barrel that fit into tabs on each side of the stock. I shimmed the tabs with aluminum and glued them to the stock so that the barrel fits tighter into theses tabs. I figured the tabs act as a recoil leg as well as well as a fitment device for locating the barrel in the proper location.

To answer your question fully, I think it would be possible to use some epoxy as a "skim" bedding along the sides of the action and in the area where the classic tabs fit into the stock.
I'm thinking about using some locktight were the barrel sets into the action.
In addition to the RPR, I've got a CZ 455 and the Tika T1. The RPR is my favoriteThe quality of the other rifles is better, but my RPR with the Shaw barrel edges them out for accuracy,

Thanks for the reply.. Did you also glue the aluminum on the sides? It sounds like it's only a few thousandths to shim it up so using bedding epoxy may be difficult to apply and sand evenly. I'm just trying to get a grasp on problem fixes before I purchase one. I'll be shooting NRL Base class so a barrel upgrade isn't allowed. Maybe if I'm lucky I'll get one that shoots good out of the box but, it sounds like that is unlikely. It would be nice if it shot as good as my 6.5 RPR, It's a tack driver with hand loads and factory Hornady 143 ELDs.
 
I used the HVAC tape, and it worked like a charm.

Its the ass end of the stock that is flakey... when fully extended, its just not super stable.
 
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Thanks for the reply.. Did you also glue the aluminum on the sides? It sounds like it's only a few thousandths to shim it up so using bedding epoxy may be difficult to apply and sand evenly. I'm just trying to get a grasp on problem fixes before I purchase one. I'll be shooting NRL Base class so a barrel upgrade isn't allowed. Maybe if I'm lucky I'll get one that shoots good out of the box but, it sounds like that is unlikely. It would be nice if it shot as good as my 6.5 RPR, It's a tack driver with hand loads and factory Hornady 143 ELDs.

The only spot I glued in was on the "posts" in the side of the chassis that the tabs of the barrel fit into. When you take your rifle out of the chassis you'll see what I mean.

When you first get your rifle, don't be too concerned with how well it shoots. Remember it's a mass produced production barrel and it's likely to be a little rough inside, with a generous chamber. Shooting it a lot will help in smoothing things out which will help in improving it's accuracy. While your doing this, pay attention to what it likes. Mine didn't like to be held very firm to the point where I almost shot it almost "free recoil." Putting a vertical hand grip on it helped that problem, as did the bedding we've spoken about. I learned that a bit of a carbon ring in the chamber was a good thing to help keep the round centered in the chamber, but you can have too much of a good thing too. If you pay attention, you'll learn the limits of that ring. If you don't have a bore scope, get one. It'll help with learning the limits or the ring and how well you're cleaning you barrels. There's a company now selling one for under $100 and I think that's a good investment if you don't have one. I found that SK Rifle Match was the best round for my rifle. Buying anything more expensive didn't improve the groups by more than a fraction of an inch, and I felt that the increase of cost wasn't justified . Don't be afraid to use the cheap hyper-velocity stuff to help "wear-in" the barrel for a couple of 1000 rounds. My Shaw barrel has about 2,000 rounds through it and is just now really starting to impress me with it's accuracy and consistency. And it was the constancy problem that I had with the factory barrel that prompted my change. I could get 1/4" groups with the factory barrel, but it wasn't consistent.
I also found that using Butler Creek "Hot Lips" magazines feed the round straight into the chamber and I never had any feeding/extraction issues with using them. I also found that when the temperatures went below 70 degrees, I'd get more first, second and third round flyers. Huh? It's one reason why I use the 25 round mags.

If you'd like, I have a gently used factory barrel just taking up space in my shop. I would be happy to send it to you. It would be interesting to see what your results are shooting a new factory barrel vs one that has 10,000+ rounds through it.
 
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I used the HVAC tape, and it worked like a charm.

Its the ass end of the stock that is flakey... when fully extended, its just not super stable.
Do you still have the factory pistol grip on your rifle? I went to the verticle grip with the thumb rest on the right side (I'm right handed), and I think that helped in pulling the rifle straight into my shoulder.
 
Well, I bought one the other day and finally had tome to make it the range. I had put around 150-200 through it before bringing it to the range. Cleaned it before shooting. It really liked the FGMT. All groups are 10 shots at 50 yards. I am not the best shooter so some of these could have been me. I am wanting to try some eley and FGMUM.

I think one of my problems is the the bolt rubbing the next round in the magazine. Also I was using the factory 15 round mag during this.

I think for shooting squirrels with the kiddos I could leave it alone but I would like to see what this rifle is capable of and I believe it is more accurate than I am.
 

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Do you still have the factory pistol grip on your rifle? I went to the verticle grip with the thumb rest on the right side (I'm right handed), and I think that helped in pulling the rifle straight into my shoulder.

actually I replaced that with a very nice full grip A.R. 15 grip.... Made a pretty big change.

The Timney trigger was the best fix.
 
The only spot I glued in was on the "posts" in the side of the chassis that the tabs of the barrel fit into. When you take your rifle out of the chassis you'll see what I mean.

When you first get your rifle, don't be too concerned with how well it shoots. Remember it's a mass produced production barrel and it's likely to be a little rough inside, with a generous chamber. Shooting it a lot will help in smoothing things out which will help in improving it's accuracy. While your doing this, pay attention to what it likes. Mine didn't like to be held very firm to the point where I almost shot it almost "free recoil." Putting a vertical hand grip on it helped that problem, as did the bedding we've spoken about. I learned that a bit of a carbon ring in the chamber was a good thing to help keep the round centered in the chamber, but you can have too much of a good thing too. If you pay attention, you'll learn the limits of that ring. If you don't have a bore scope, get one. It'll help with learning the limits or the ring and how well you're cleaning you barrels. There's a company now selling one for under $100 and I think that's a good investment if you don't have one. I found that SK Rifle Match was the best round for my rifle. Buying anything more expensive didn't improve the groups by more than a fraction of an inch, and I felt that the increase of cost wasn't justified . Don't be afraid to use the cheap hyper-velocity stuff to help "wear-in" the barrel for a couple of 1000 rounds. My Shaw barrel has about 2,000 rounds through it and is just now really starting to impress me with it's accuracy and consistency. And it was the constancy problem that I had with the factory barrel that prompted my change. I could get 1/4" groups with the factory barrel, but it wasn't consistent.
I also found that using Butler Creek "Hot Lips" magazines feed the round straight into the chamber and I never had any feeding/extraction issues with using them. I also found that when the temperatures went below 70 degrees, I'd get more first, second and third round flyers. Huh? It's one reason why I use the 25 round mags.

If you'd like, I have a gently used factory barrel just taking up space in my shop. I would be happy to send it to you. It would be interesting to see what your results are shooting a new factory barrel vs one that has 10,000+ rounds through it.
The bedding sounds pretty straight forward. I've read where it can be difficult to remove the 10 rounders but they seemed to feed better. But you have better luck with the 25 rounders from Butler Creek vs Ruger mags? It would be nice to utilize the 25s in competition vs 10's. I guess I'm asking some things I'll need to work out with my rifle as it appears each rifle is somewhat different when it comes to problems.
I've thrown around the idea of a borescope especially for my 6.5 CM, so to get one for around $100 is awesome. Are you talking about one that utilizes an I-phone? Who makes it and best place to order one. I looked at one that was fairly cheap, but the reviews were terrible.
I'm going to try and go to Cabelas and BPro next week (if I get my deer tomorrow, muzzleloader season is in progress) and see if they'll let me "honey pick" a RPRR out. Tell me if I need to look at more than these.. Overall fit & finish, bolt for bad tooling marks and finish, fore end/ barrel centered. I know a couple of the gun guys and I'm a retired LEO Tac guy, so I'm hoping they may let me check the fitment of barrel to chassis. I may be asking them for a bit much on that one, but ya never know unless you try.
I really appreciate your input and taking the time to explain this and help me.
If your not going to utilize your used barrel I would love to do some testing on used-vs-new , during and after barrel break in process and check chrono speeds on new-vs-used.
Again, THANKS
 
@hdbull ---

When you bed the action, you accomplish two things; one of course provides a better bed for the action, and the Second is to firm up the block in the action that the rear of the mag locks into. You'll see what I mean when you take the rifle out of the action

The standard BMX mags have the rotary feed device that feeds the round into the action, so the round goes into the chamber at a little bit of an angle. They also aid in the ejection of the round which is probably something that the 10-22 needs as its an auto loaded and that's what the mags were designed to work in.
The Butler Creek "Hot Lips" mags don't have the rotary feed like the BMX mags, and they feed the round straight into the chamber. The feed lips are made of plastic so they don't scratch the bullets. I probably ran close to 10,000 rounds through mine before the plastic wore down to a point where I started to have feeding issues. But at that point I put the Shaw barrel on and the Hot Lip mags didn't work well on the new barrel so I went with the regular Butler Creek mags. The BMX mags just felt clunky to me.

There's some talk on the hide about the bore scope, I think it's in the first section where folks are talking about equipment. For approximately $70 it looks pretty good to me. Some folks have posted pictures of their rifle bores that I though we're pretty good. Yes, it's the type of scope that uses your phone.

When I purchased my rifle, it was the only one my lgs had in stock, so I didn't have a choice. The bolt had some edges on it that actually cut my finger. A little light file work on the edges took care of that. Then I put some JB Bore paste on the whole bolt and cycled it through the action a few hundred times and it was very smooth after that.

I'm very happy to help you, or anyone with their RPR. Just realize that you need to have some patience with the rifle to get the best out of it. Mine was what I call the first generation RPR. It was made in the first month of production according to the serial number, and in the owners manual it said to tighten the action to 35 inch pounds, but then there was a flyer included that said to not tighten the action more than 25 inch pounds. Later built rifles didn't have the flier, ask I assume Ruger changed something in the chassis. By now, I'd like to think that Rugers QC has caught up to their manufacturing and are putting out a better gun. After shooting my RPR for 6 months I purchased a CZ455 to see if my groups would improve. They did initially, but with some more work on the RPR (bedding), I thought the RPR groups a little bit better than the CZ. I purchased a Tikka this past fallbut haven't worked with it much, but the RPR out shoots it. What amazes me about the Tikka is that it shoots anything pretty good, but the RPR offshoots it too. My whole point about all of this is that I've found that the RPR is capable of being a pretty decent shooter, but you have to work with it to get it in that condition. But that's OK with me, as I'm a patient person and enjoy analying a situation and trying to figure out an action to correct things. Maybe most important, I think you have to forget the notion of comparing rimfire rifles to centerfires. They are a completly different beast. My RPR is one of my favorite rifles, perhaps because it was a problem child that's now pretty decent due to my efforts.

My offer for the barrel stands. When your ready for it send me a PM and I'll ship it to you. The only thing I ask is that I'd like to see a comparison of how your new barrel shoots Vs my 10,000 round barrel. That could be interesting. Or maybe not. .22lr are different.

Good luck with the deer hunt. I shoot black powder too.
 
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actually I replaced that with a very nice full grip A.R. 15 grip.... Made a pretty big change.

The Timney trigger was the best fix.

I went with the Shaw barrel instead of a trigger upgrade, as I'm happy with the stock trigger, but now you got me thinking.
It seems to me that with the new barrel, I don't notice the stock flexing anymore. Maybe that's due to "mussel memory" in that I just naturally fit myself into the gun now sfter 12,000+ rounds.

What is really fun is that I took my 10 year old great nephew out a few weeks ago to zero his new .22 for an upcoming squirrel hunt. After getting him squarred away with his gun, I let him shoot my RPR. He sat at the bench as I adjusted the stock so it fit him and he started shooting at clay pidgeons at 60 yards. He was pretty proud of himself when he hit his first one, then I told him to shoot at the pieces. There were some 20 year old's at the range with their AR's that had given up trying to hit the pidgeons and my great nephew was hitting pieces of them. He was pretty proud of himself, and so was I.
 
I have a major problem with my brand new (boxed) RPR. The bolt does not slide smoothly and freely but seems to be continually catching. I do have the bolt on large calibre simulation (rear clip removed). On most ammunition I often get no empty cartridge ejection but it seems to do CCI minimags better than most. This is really a pretty annoying problem. My Springfield M1903 bolt and my AI .308 AT bolts are heavenly in operation, but this bolt almost seems to be unfinished and badly machined. Do I simply have a Friday afternoon rifle? When it does shoot, accuracy is very impressive, but at present having put 200 rounds through it I am very unhappy with an ongoing problem.
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I'd polish the running surface on the bottom of the bolt, and the sharp edges on the front lower edge of the bolt, by the extractor.
 
Just as an FYI, since I had issues understanding what exactly was being done when tape bedding the RPRR.

This is an Elfster Rifles & Reloading video about the RPRR tape bedding process:



@elfster1234
 
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Here where I am at so far with filing the bolt. I do have a question on how far y'all brought it down. I have filed what I would consider a lot off the bolt. It still chambers a round fine no issues but I do still get nicks on my bullets.

I'm using the ruger 15 round mag, I haven't ordered any other mags yet.
 

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I also just noticed this band where it is hitting the bottom of the chamber as it enters. So I figure this maybe more of a mag issue.
 

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Got a RPR for a 22can, tried to buy an hk416 in 22lr but yah. Anyways its super quiet supressed with CCI subs, like retarded quiet. Like firing pin only quiet. Looking forward to slaying squirrels in my neighborhood from inside the house this summer.
 
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Here where I am at so far with filing the bolt. I do have a question on how far y'all brought it down. I have filed what I would consider a lot off the bolt. It still chambers a round fine no issues but I do still get nicks on my bullets.

I'm using the ruger 15 round mag, I haven't ordered any other mags yet.


The Ruger 15 & 25 round mags in particular are prone to tilting forward, which leaves the mag follwoer and thus the nose of the round, out of alignment with the bore. That leaves the gouge on the bottom of the round.

The line on top is from the bottom of the bolt as it pushes the previous round into the bore. As far as how far to take polishing the bolt, the idea is to make it as smooth as possible, without removing much material. I'd round over just the front edge by the extractor, just enought to take the sharp edge off, then hit it with a jeweller's rouge along the whole bottom of the bolt.

Disassembling the bolt might be helpful before polishing.

This is an Anarchy outdoors video about installing their swept back bolt handles (great feel on the swept back bolt handles and the dragon scale knob, by the way). The first part of the video shows the bolt disassembly.

 
thank you!! I will polish it out this evening. just ordered the butler creek hotlips mag and a bunch of higher end ammo to try through the gun.
 
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Got it polished this evening. No marks on next round in mags. Woohoo. Lol.

Didn't see any dents from bullets engaging the chamber bottom but that can change due to the factory mags being sloppy. Butler creek mag should be in next week.

Will try to go shoot this weekend to see of polishing the bolt had any effect of accuracy.
 

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Got it polished this evening. No marks on next round in mags. Woohoo. Lol.

Didn't see any dents from bullets engaging the chamber bottom but that can change due to the factory mags being sloppy. Butler creek mag should be in next week.

Will try to go shoot this weekend to see of polishing the bolt had any effect of accuracy.

I don't have feeding issues or marks with my RPRR, but I don't use the 15 & 25 round mags. I don't like the 10 round BX-1 mags being totally flush, so I bought some of the Double Kross BX ROtary Mag doublers. This has the dual advantage of the lower mag giving a spot to grip when changing mags, and putting your second mag already in hand when needed.

In addition, they fit MUCH tighter in the magwell on at least my RPRR.


They use the internals from your existing BX-1 mags, this is a shell mod, not a complete mag.

1022-DoubleKross-Basic-Size-Comparison.jpg
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This is with the cci stingers I believe on the box they are 1640. I don't have a chronograph so I don't know what they are doing in mine.

First grouping with these was around 1.5” @ 50 yards. This one is a little over 3/4” and is 15 shots @ 40 yards. I am hoping the more I shoot it the better it will get. The only thing thing I have changed since previous shooting was polishing the bottom of the bolt. I am very impatiently waiting for the arrival of the mag and new ammo.

This is kind of my first step in shooting precision rifles. I have always been a shotgun guy. I know there are much more precise 22lr rifles out there but this one will help open the door especially since the kiddos love shooting it. First time shooting prone as well.
 

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Not bad for supersonic ammo. You already said you had ammunition options on the way, so I won't belabor the point, but ammunition that transitions from supersonic to subsonic during flight has a relatively huge negative affect on your accuracy.

In general, try to use something at around 1000-1100 fps,, and your consistency will improve a fair bit.