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Ruger Precision Rimfire

Took apart my Ruger Precision Rimfire today. Cleaned the factory barrel thoroughly and here is what I seen with the bore scope after cleaning. Does anyone else have a bore scope to inspect their barrel? Does it have these circular marks? The marks are 360°. Notice these four photos are taking at different areas. The entire barrel length is like this. I will have to double check but I don't believe my $210 Savage MK II barrel looks like this. This gun has never shot that good. When I was cleaning the barrel I noticed the patch on my Parker/Hale jag was not as tight on any of my other 22 rifles. Anyway, since this thread is about the Ruger PR I thought I would share this. One reason why I am so interested in the Shaw barrel.

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I may contact Ruger and show them these photos and ask if this is normal. If the guy/gal says yes, then I will tell them I'll never buy another Ruger product because their quality cannot be trusted. I mean you can't deny the photos, the probe is sticking in the Ruger barrel.
 
I've been skimming over this thread and had couple questions.

You guys that have them, are you happy with them?
Would you maybe wait till they roll out the gen 2 rim fire?

I'm wanting a good rim fire, but need to keep cost down and the fact I can get this ruger for $400 is attractive.

I know this isn't going to be a voodo but for 400 bux is it a good deal?

Also has anyone found a good match barrel for the rprr ?
 
Pilotscrappy said:
I've been skimming over this thread and had couple questions.

You guys that have them, are you happy with them?
Would you maybe wait till they roll out the gen 2 rim fire?

I'm wanting a good rim fire, but need to keep cost down and the fact I can get this ruger for $400 is attractive.

I know this isn't going to be a voodo but for 400 bux is it a good deal?

Also has anyone found a good match barrel for the rprr ?
Click to expand...

I've had mine since the beginning of June. It's been a journey, sent the rifle back into Ruger because the accuracy was no better than my factory RAR. Ruger replaced chassis, barrel and barrel nut. Shot much better on return. I'm not a big fan of short barreled tactical rifles so when Green Mountain offered a 22" drop-in replacement I jumped on it. The GM replacement shoots much better than the factory barrel, but that's to be expected because GM has a Bentz chambering.

The only issues I have are; first there is only one bedding block to the rear of the magazine well, the front bedding surface is directly to the chassis. This brings me to my second issue the glass filled nylon chassis; would rather have aluminum, but that would have added $100s to the price. Would I have waited? I really don't think so, and there is no guarantee that there would be a gen II.
 
Pilotscrappy said:
I've been skimming over this thread and had couple questions.

You guys that have them, are you happy with them?
Would you maybe wait till they roll out the gen 2 rim fire?

I'm wanting a good rim fire, but need to keep cost down and the fact I can get this ruger for $400 is attractive.

I know this isn't going to be a voodo but for 400 bux is it a good deal?

Also has anyone found a good match barrel for the rprr ?
Click to expand...

Maybe I'm more easy to please than other's and don't expect perfection out of a mass produced product, but I'm very happy with what I got at this price point (I paid $365) despite having to do a little tweaking of the loose magazine assembly and the extractor. Some of the features I feel is really good at price point are things like the adjustable stock, a 30 MOA rail, free floating "target" barrel (though not a match barrel) and it's ability to use Ruger's established rotary magazines. Oh, and the adjustable trigger is really pretty nice too. The barrel produced higher velocities from various ammo than my other factory Ruger .22LR rifles of similar length and the accuracy was a tad better for me. Like you, my pocket book is limited. So I had already planned on replacing the factory barrel for a match barrel where wind up with $600-700 gun the would shoot really well (though not expecting to be at an X40 or Voodo match level). Bottom line is . . . yes, I'm happy with my "gen-1" and its new Shaw barrel . . . and nothing else out there like it to compete at this price point (IMHO). And I especially like it because I have an RPR where this 22LR have much the same feel.

If they or when they come out with a gen 2, I feel they'll likely resolve the issues many of us have experienced with this gen 1. Just remember, this is a factory production rifle with a "target" barrel rather than a match barrel.
 
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Nice video, looks like a fun little gun, I'm thinking I'm going to go ahead and get one.
I have the big brother rpr in 6.5 cm and thinking this would be a good little trainer to have
 
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Harv24 said:
I've noted a trend on all Rimfire boards... Everyone seems to what to hate Rugers attempts at a precision rimfire, even thought there has been plenty of targets posted that clearly show there barrels can go toe to toe with everyone favorite darling the CZ. My Ruger Target shot great out of the box. and the Ruger Prevision looks like it is doing the same.

Few of us can or will drop $2-$3K on a Rimfire bolt gun and another $1K on a scope. Especially when there are options like Ruger out there. And Just my Humble opinion, worth what you paid for it, but the Ruger Magazine is the Number 1 feed system out there.Based on performance and cost.
Click to expand...


Seems to me the biggest variable in rimfire is the ammunition, not the weapon system.
 
honuswagner said:
Seems to me the biggest variable in rimfire is the ammunition, not the weapon system.
Click to expand...

I will humbly disagree...to a point. I believe that there are several important factors with the top 2 being the ammunition and equally or even more so how the ammunition is handle by the loading mechanism. The most critical part of a 22 bullet is the driving bands on these oh so soft lead bullets. Stripping a bullet out of a mag and slamming it up again the feed ramp and then again as it hits the top of the chamber can not only damage the driving bands but also bend and loosen where the bullet joins the case. Try grabbing a 22 round and bending the bullet at that joint until it breaks. It is surprisingly easy.
 
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quickdraw said:
I will humbly disagree...to a point. I believe that there are several important factors with the top 2 being the ammunition and equally or even more so how the ammunition is handle by the loading mechanism. The most critical part of a 22 bullet is the driving bands on these oh so soft lead bullets. Stripping a bullet out of a mag and slamming it up again the feed ramp and then again as it hits the top of the chamber can not only damage the driving bands but also bend and loosen where the bullet joins the case. Try grabbing a 22 round and bending the bullet at that joint until it breaks. It is surprisingly easy.
Click to expand...

I agree; that's why I disassembled each of my BX-1 10 round magazines and reassembled them using half of the recommended windings for the magizine. The bullets strip out much easier now and I haven't had any FTF problems in over 1000 rounds of various ammunition.
 
Kisssofdeath said:
Took apart my Ruger Precision Rimfire today. Cleaned the factory barrel thoroughly and here is what I seen with the bore scope after cleaning. Does anyone else have a bore scope to inspect their barrel? Does it have these circular marks? The marks are 360°. Notice these four photos are taking at different areas. The entire barrel length is like this. I will have to double check but I don't believe my $210 Savage MK II barrel looks like this. This gun has never shot that good. When I was cleaning the barrel I noticed the patch on my Parker/Hale jag was not as tight on any of my other 22 rifles. Anyway, since this thread is about the Ruger PR I thought I would share this. One reason why I am so interested in the Shaw barrel.

View attachment 6969700View attachment 6969701View attachment 6969702View attachment 6969703
Click to expand...
I have the same bore scope and have done the same test... Looks like yours. While mine did shoot pretty well, it's not a great looking surface and can't be that helpful to precision or SD over time. I put over 1000 rounds through it before swapping to ER Shaw and scoped it after pulling it from the rig. Not that impressive.

The Shaw barrel on the other hand looked like a silver mirror. Very clean and very smooth.
 
kgc54 said:
I agree; that's why I disassembled each of my BX-1 10 round magazines and reassembled them using half of the recommended windings for the magizine. The bullets strip out much easier now and I haven't had any FTF problems in over 1000 rounds of various ammunition.
Click to expand...

Never thought of this, learn something new every day. I always like to have someone challenge my comments!
 
I installed and shot my Shaw barrel today. Also filed off the burrs on the bedding block and put aluminum tape on the entire top, sides, and rear. Its super tight now. Need to use a delrin punch to tap out of chassis tight. Also a tiny single strip at front of chassis.

Shot 100 yard 5 shot groups of 1.07" with Wolf Extra Match and .88" with SK Rifle Match. Had 50 yard 5 shot groups in the .25" to .45" range with the same ammo.

Reliability went down. Needed to ensure I pushed forward on the mag to cock the rounds more upward to get reliable feeding. Before I just needed to not pull the mags to the rear and point them down but leaving them alone was enough to ensure reliability. 100% reliable with mags at correct angle. Need to find a way to make them always stay at that angle.

I also feel like my stock trigger and Athlon BTR 6-24×50 Argos are holding me back. I think consistently shooting 3/4 MOA is a realistic goal now. Its nipping at my stock RPR 6.5 Creed accuracy finally.
 
Last edited:
Don't forget to take the thread protector off when shooting groups. The thread protector, when screwed on tight, has a gap between the muzzle and the cap causing poorer accuracy. If you opt for a Green Mountain barrel there s no gap.
 
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I took out my main trigger spring (5mm x 18mm) and replaced it with a spring from a bic pen slightly stretched to 18mm. The safety works as it should. The rifle will not fire unless the safety blade is depressed. The trigger pull is 1 pound. The rifle would not cock upon bolt lift unless the bolt was opened briskly. I tightened the trigger adjustment set screw a few turns and the rifle cocks with the gentlest bolt lift and is still at 1 pound. It feels perfect.
 

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Travelor said:
Don't forget to take the thread protector off when shooting groups. The thread protector, when screwed on tight, has a gap between the muzzle and the cap causing poorer accuracy. If you opt for a Green Mountain barrel there s no gap.
Click to expand...

Do you mean for the Shaw barrel? Because I shot sans cap with the Shaw barrel and the cap made no difference on my factory barrel. I have not tried cap on with my Shaw.
 
kgc54 said:
I agree; that's why I disassembled each of my BX-1 10 round magazines and reassembled them using half of the recommended windings for the magizine. The bullets strip out much easier now and I haven't had any FTF problems in over 1000 rounds of various ammunition.
Click to expand...
I'm going to give this a try. Thanks for the tip.
 
Frankr said:
signed up also - thanks for the chance to participate
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I signed up too... even from the photos, you can see the lack of E clips on the smaller pins will remove that wobbly, sloppy fit of the factory trigger pins. Even if I don't get to beta test, I hope the full release is soon because I NEED a better trigger.
 
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kgc54 said:
I agree; that's why I disassembled each of my BX-1 10 round magazines and reassembled them using half of the recommended windings for the magizine. The bullets strip out much easier now and I haven't had any FTF problems in over 1000 rounds of various ammunition.
Click to expand...
That's a great idea. I would think the only reason for a tighter tension is to feed better when cycling fast. Which most folks with those mags in 10/22's do with them.
 
Islander said:
That's a great idea. I would think the only reason for a tighter tension is to feed better when cycling fast. Which most folks with those mags in 10/22's do with them.
Click to expand...
I started doing this when I noticed some deformed/dented rounds being chambered.
 
kgc54 said:
I started doing this when I noticed some deformed/dented rounds being chambered.[/QUOTEI

I just did this with my single BX10 mag and it did make a substantial diffrence in how smooth the rounds cambered. How many windings are you doing when you reassemble? it is too bad we can't reduce the spring tension on the BX15 mags..
Click to expand...
 
chavezz556 said:
If the Jard is as bad as their 10/22 trigger I will steer clear
Click to expand...
I agree. I traded for a 10/22 that I was going to use for speed shooting. The seller said it had a Jard aftermarket trigger in it that was pretty nice. I had never tried one, but was not impressed. Not sure what their price point is compared to the Kidd, but they are miles apart in quality.
 
Dev L said:
I installed and shot my Shaw barrel today. Also filed off the burrs on the bedding block and put aluminum tape on the entire top, sides, and rear. Its super tight now. Need to use a delrin punch to tap out of chassis tight. Also a tiny single strip at front of chassis.

Shot 100 yard 5 shot groups of 1.07" with Wolf Extra Match and .88" with SK Rifle Match. Had 50 yard 5 shot groups in the .25" to .45" range with the same ammo.

Reliability went down. Needed to ensure I pushed forward on the mag to cock the rounds more upward to get reliable feeding. Before I just needed to not pull the mags to the rear and point them down but leaving them alone was enough to ensure reliability. 100% reliable with mags at correct angle. Need to find a way to make them always stay at that angle.

I also feel like my stock trigger and Athlon BTR 6-24×50 Argos are holding me back. I think consistently shooting 3/4 MOA is a realistic goal now. Its nipping at my stock RPR 6.5 Creed accuracy finally.
Click to expand...

The trigger definitely sucks but why do you feel the Argos is holding you back? I’m just curious. I have the same setup getting the same results. I did get a .7 inch group with federal automatch at 100 yards. Pretty impressed with the rifle now. I think to shoot 1 moa with a 22lr is really good considering all the negative factors against the round.

BTW my factory barrel couldn’t hold less than 1.5-1.8 groups at 100 with ammo like eley, cci, prime and a handful of others
 
Diver160651 said:
Anyone know for sure if it takes the same trigger as Regular RPRs? I shoot mostly two stage Huber’s _ I see Timney has a two stage for the RPRs.. maybe that would fix some of my issues.
Click to expand...

I modified and installed the Timney RPR trigger, it is not a drop in trigger for the RPRR. Once installed the trigger works great, just like the one I installed on my RPR 6.5 Creed. I used a hacksaw and files to do the modes on the trigger. Not really that hard but it took some time to complete.
 
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demolitionman said:
Look at the bolt face. The black metal flexibe clip(cartridge positioner spring part#29)opposite of the extractor is the cause of your occasional round not ejecting. Bend it in towards the center of the boltface. It will launch casings after doing that! I had same problem. I can now even run the bolt really slow and it functions well. Before I always had to run the bolt fast to get efficient ejection.
Click to expand...

I also had this problem with any of the mag's I used. This fixed it. Now they fly out of the ejector. Thanks for the Tip....
 
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combatgrunt84 said:
I got mine from PX on post 15percent of used Star Card and was on sale and no taxes.

Anyone running a compensator on it? I was looking into the Tactical Solutions Comps and was wondering who has input and do they fit perfectly radius wise?
Click to expand...

I run my TB Ultra 9 in 30 Cal on mine. Works great, All I can hear with SK red is the firing pin hit.
 
Just received a Timney trigger for my RPRF today for beta testing. Will be giving it a thorough workout and see just how much difference I might get from my factory trigger that's set at .14 lb pull. I'll report back here too with my results.

BTW: I see Hardpan was getting some interesting results from firing Federal's Auto Match rounds and that was interesting to me as I've been getting some good results also from those cartridges . . . though once in a while a substantial flyer gets thrown out, but not as often as I though one might from bulk ammo like this, and I've often got single digit SD's and ES's around 30. But only got these results out of this gun and not my 10/22 or Ruger American with factory barrels.
 
straightshooter1 said:
Just received a Timney trigger for my RPRF today for beta testing. Will be giving it a thorough workout and see just how much difference I might get from my factory trigger that's set at .14 lb pull. I'll report back here too with my results.

BTW: I see Hardpan was getting some interesting results from firing Federal's Auto Match rounds and that was interesting to me as I've been getting some good results also from those cartridges . . . though once in a while a substantial flyer gets thrown out, but not as often as I though one might from bulk ammo like this, and I've often got single digit SD's and ES's around 30. But only got these results out of this gun and not my 10/22 or Ruger American with factory barrels.
Click to expand...
I've also seen some surprisingly tight groups posted using Auto Match in a RPR by a handful of shooters at Rimfire Central.
 
Sieg said:
I've also seen some surprisingly tight groups posted using Auto Match in a RPR by a handful of shooters at Rimfire Central.
Click to expand...

Three 5 shot groups and 1 20 round group all at 100 yards with federal automatch
 

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Man, that’s amazing. I have a bunch of that ammo just sitting in the gun room. Didn’t even think to try it, as I’ve been testing much expensive stuff. I’m hitting the rang with some tomorrow.
Also, has anyone seen a cleaning rod guide that will fit these rifles? I usually use Possum Hollow guides but they don’t list the Ruger Precision Rimfire on their website.
 
So I'm going to answer my own question here. I sent an email to Possum Hollow asking if they made a guide for the RPRimfire as I couldn't find it on their list. Got an email back the same day telling me which part number guide would fit and said if I'd call they would send one right out to me. Didn't read the email until late Friday night, so on a whim I called Sat. morning. Spoke to the guy that answered my email (Eric) and ordered one over the phone. Talk about customer service!!
 
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Hardpan said:
The trigger definitely sucks but why do you feel the Argos is holding you back? I’m just curious. I have the same setup getting the same results. I did get a .7 inch group with federal automatch at 100 yards. Pretty impressed with the rifle now. I think to shoot 1 moa with a 22lr is really good considering all the negative factors against the round.

BTW my factory barrel couldn’t hold less than 1.5-1.8 groups at 100 with ammo like eley, cci, prime and a handful of others
Click to expand...

The scope is difficult to eliminate parallax... not just focus to but be sure head movement does not translate to reticle movement and use is difficult in sub optimal lighting conditions.
 
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