I would like to set my zero to the lowest point on the turret. I have a 40moa base could I shim the back of the base to bring my turret closer to the bottom without screwing anything up? Thanks for any info
Rifle Scopes shimming scope base
- Thread starter Pittbull46
- Start date
How much available elevation you have on the scope now from your zero? How far you plan on shooting and with what caliber?
You just trying to make a zero stop by bottoming it out? A better option might be to just log how much down you have and not mes with the base.
You just trying to make a zero stop by bottoming it out? A better option might be to just log how much down you have and not mes with the base.
When you jack up or pull down one end of the scope base you are putting stress on the scope. There's a reason why it's suggested that you bed the rear of the base so it's a perfect fit and not pulling the base down to the receiver. Shimming it up does the same thing.
I wouldn't do it but if you do I'd lap the hell out of the rings.
I wouldn't do it but if you do I'd lap the hell out of the rings.
Only POSP and PSO scopes need shimming the base - because the way they come from the factory they may point too far up/down or to the side. Far enough that the normal zeroing procedure won't work. Some people say it's a standard OP with SVD and PSL. 
I will have to politely disagree. I have elevated the rear of a couple of bases for the exact reason the OP is questioning. Although I didn't use shims, I chose to bed the base with the rear elevated to a calculated height that would give me the number of mils at 100 yards I was looking for. I had a 0 moa base and needed about 25 moa or so. You can do this with imposing any stress on the base.
You have to bed the rear with screw only placed in the front (very loosely) for alignment. Once the rear is bedded (I used the tip of a flat feeler guage at 22 thousandths for my purposes the first time) then you go back and bed the front to mate the two faces at the front.
The alignment method I used worked very well as I did not have to readjust for windage once I bedded the added elevation. Devcon sets up extremely hard and really does not need a shim.
I took a couple of pics during the initial set-up and still use this set-up today. Hope this info may be helpful.
You have to bed the rear with screw only placed in the front (very loosely) for alignment. Once the rear is bedded (I used the tip of a flat feeler guage at 22 thousandths for my purposes the first time) then you go back and bed the front to mate the two faces at the front.
The alignment method I used worked very well as I did not have to readjust for windage once I bedded the added elevation. Devcon sets up extremely hard and really does not need a shim.
I took a couple of pics during the initial set-up and still use this set-up today. Hope this info may be helpful.
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