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Sig Kilo 10k ABS

I missed the 8 part

The 8 would be great if it matched the sub-tensions of the reticle or the known 1.5 mil reticle square which it doesn’t. Pics attached show it should be 15 mils which match 5 mil hash marks.

AB external was used and made no difference with kestrel or any other connection. Tried all settings lol

Yup I know what AMR means. It’s just in the wrong portion of the display. View attachment 7850149View attachment 7850150View attachment 7850151

Damn that would really blow if you can't get data back and forth between the kestrel and the binos. Straight deal breaker for me
 
Damn that would really blow if you can't get data back and forth between the kestrel and the binos. Straight deal breaker for me
Definitely a selling point. But I don’t do much stationary shooting where the Kestrel is used. Ballistics are given with same solver and it’s quick to add wind speed to solution if needed. I hardly ever use a kestrel unless wind is 20 plus so for me it’s not a much of an impact. That being said it’s supposed to work and doesn’t.
 
Is it even worth it? Aside from the wind it, wouldn't they have similar solutions?

I feel like the advantage to having the bino/laser/calc combo is it reduces the yard sale of gadgets in front of you.
 
Is it even worth it? Aside from the wind it, wouldn't they have similar solutions?

I feel like the advantage to having the bino/laser/calc combo is it reduces the yard sale of gadgets in front of you.
This is my thought exactly. I will only be using this for matches. I’ll carry a kestrel to maybe verify temp in the middle of the and if wind is stupid high in between stages. . No need for everything else for my intended use.
I don’t need the app to tell me what the display does. Range target, write down solution on wrist coach, and repeat for the rest of targets. No time to fuck with everything else or deal with connection failures etc. especially when competing. Even if it was just a day at the range I don’t do anything different. Shoot, adjust if needed, and apply lol.
 
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I agree, the entire value of these is built in AB Elite coupled with the fast return of corrections. If you’re pairing with a Kestrel for solutions, what’s the point - you might as well get better glass with BT. I get tired of BT links failing/results taking a while/etc with Kestrel-paired RFs, which is why I bought these.
 
I agree, the entire value of these is built in AB Elite coupled with the fast return of corrections. If you’re pairing with a Kestrel for solutions, what’s the point - you might as well get better glass with BT. I get tired of BT links failing/results taking a while/etc with Kestrel-paired RFs, which is why I bought these.

totally agree with this. The 3200.com+Kestrel is a much better setup(optically) for someone wanting to run a kestrel for solutions.
 
I agree, the entire value of these is built in AB Elite coupled with the fast return of corrections. If you’re pairing with a Kestrel for solutions, what’s the point - you might as well get better glass with BT. I get tired of BT links failing/results taking a while/etc with Kestrel-paired RFs, which is why I bought these.
Got any thoughts on the Sig10k vs the Revic BR4 lasers?
 
Of course they arrive as I have to leave the house... 😆
PXL_20220415_183558839.jpg
 
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Got any thoughts on the Sig10k vs the Revic BR4 lasers?
Sig10k is better for the areas I’ve tested. Full disclosure - I returned the BR4s as the display was unreadable to me more often than not when used in the field. The Sig definitely ranges faster (which is nuts; the BR4 is already VERY fast) and the glass is better in the Sig K10k, optically. The blue tint is really the only negative I have at this juncture, and it hasn’t caused a single issue with use that I’d expect to hinder spotting game or targets.

This isn’t really a fair comparison, though, both in price points and size. K8k vs. BR4 would be more fair, and I haven’t had a K8k on hand to compare with.
 
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I just got mine from liberty optics, pulled them out and they are up for sale in the PX.
 
It’s the same reason I sold my leica 3200s, when I focus the diopter for the reticle and finally get a crisp image I can never get the other diopter dialed in. So I always have one side that has a clear target image and the other with a slightly out of focus image. It irritates the hell out my eyes.

I can set them perfect but then I can’t read the display. It’s something I’ve always had in issue with.

I’ll pick up an 8K because of how nice the display is in the 10k’s and the Laser is faster than my 3200s with a return.
 
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But you have to trade in a kidney and your first born child for them. I guess my post came off like the kilos aren’t worth it…
I would pick them over the 3200s all day long, the glass has a blue tint but I liked it in the blazing hot west texas sun. It was like wearing a very light pair of polarized lens. It toned down everything in a good way. But I like the glass quality for the price point that sig has made them. If they were 3k then yes I would expected better. But for 2k they are nice. The laser was stupid fast, the factory setting was set for a .308 175gr bullet. So I ranged a gas station that’s about 2 miles from my house. The kilos gave me a elevation correction in less than a second. It took me longer to move my eyes from the reticle to read the solution than it was to put the ballistic solution on the screen. They are a smaller foot print than the 3200s and the harness that sig provides is a nice addition.
 
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It’s the same reason I sold my leica 3200s, when I focus the diopter for the reticle and finally get a crisp image I can never get the other diopter dialed in. So I always have one side that has a clear target image and the other with a slightly out of focus image. It irritates the hell out my eyes.

I can set them perfect but then I can’t read the display. It’s something I’ve always had in issue with.

I’ll pick up an 8K because of how nice the display is in the 10k’s and the Laser is faster than my 3200s with a return.
Have you considered getting your eyes checked? I’m not saying this in jest - I have the same problem with the 10ks, but I also know one of my eyes is worse than the other. The left eye diopter is bottomed out, and I need a little more. I suspect it’s just my eyesight needing correction more than the binocular can accommodate due to differing vision between eyes.
 
Have you considered getting your eyes checked? I’m not saying this in jest - I have the same problem with the 10ks, but I also know one of my eyes is worse than the other. The left eye diopter is bottomed out, and I need a little more. I suspect it’s just my eyesight needing correction more than the binocular can accommodate due to differing vision between eyes.
I get them checked every year for my work physical been 20/15 for the last 6 years. It’s the same with me the left diopter is maxed and I still need more…

I can get the left dialed but then the right is all jacked up when I try to focus the display. I swear I wasn’t drinking either.
 
I get them checked every year for my work physical been 20/15 for the last 6 years. It’s the same with me the left diopter is maxed and I still need more…

I can get the left dialed but then the right is all jacked up when I try to focus the display. I swear I wasn’t drinking either.
Well, I may have the same issue then. I’ll get my eyes checked soon. My last exam had my vision 20/20 or better but one eye was worse than the other. Do you remember if you had a refraction test? (Which one is better, one or two?)
 
Lots and lots of bugs in the software. Here is the first one:

The milling grid gets messed up when selecting just HORIZONTAL. if you include the vertical component, it's totally fine.

Also, adding a profile and sending it to the binos causes Profile 1 to be overwritten. For example: I add profile 5 for my fifth gun. Profile 5 gets saved but also copies itself to Profile 1. I can reproduce this 100% of the time. So I now have a dummy profile 1 just knowing it will always get overwritten.

Diopter focus is strange. I have more-than perfect corrected vision (my eye doc is a specialist in shooting sports and used to help team USA air rifle team)... The right and left diopter, if not corrected exactly perfect, will leave a little blurriness in the AMOLED display or the target and vice versa. While my diopter is not maxed out like those described above, it can become close. I have reached a middle ground, however.

Using these side by side with Swaros is entirely unfair. The image quality is trash compared to it BUT it's certainly not TERRIBLE. 😂

More to come.

 
Didn't the directions for the 3ks say to adjust one diopter for the display and one for the actual binos? Are you guys doing that for these?
 
Didn't the directions for the 3ks say to adjust one diopter for the display and one for the actual binos? Are you guys doing that for these?
Yes. You adjust the right diopter to make the display clear, focus using the center focus on an object using your right eye, then adjust the left diopter to match (in theory). The problem I’ve run into is I cannot adjust the left diopter enough to bring it into focus following this procedure. I know one of my eyes is different than the other, so that may be the issue.
 
It doesn't seem too bad assembled. I just like how low profile it is, but I'm wondering if it won't handle a drop as well as the RRS.

Screenshot_20220417-204820_Firefox.jpg
 
That looks super complicated with the bolts. Just use a polymer RRS Cinch.
I second this. The RRS pro is metal but I believe either would be good. I have the pro and it’s as low profile as you can ask for. The 3K fit fine in the small KIUI pouch. I believe it’s the small size anyway.
 
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Just sent my BDX3000 off to get cleaned and to have the eye piece checked and my Kilo10K showed up.
Was mildly disappointed they didn't tweak the design to be able to incorporate any kind of flip up lens caps on the front or the eyes. Soft rubber is all well and good, but I just prefer something that clicks closed.

I think with some experimentation, and perhaps modification....something can be made to fit well. Might try tweaking a pair of buttler creeks for the front and see how it goes.

Anyone got a solution for lens protection on these? Something more than just rubber
 
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Has anyone checked with MKM to see if any of their flip caps would fit? Don't they make some that flip/click open and closed. I think they have some that secure with a little screw too, so a perfect size wouldn't exactly be required.

Maybe they're too long for the barrels though.

@Tyler Kemp
 
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Just got off the phone with Sig about the left eye focus issues, and they are having me RMA mine to them. Just a head's up for anybody else running into this, it sounds like it isn't expected.
 
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Has anyone checked with MKM to see if any of their flip caps would fit? Don't they make some that flip/click open and closed. I think they have some that secure with a little screw too, so a perfect size wouldn't exactly be required.

Maybe they're too long for the barrels though.

@Tyler Kemp

Get me dimensions and I can let you know what caps are needed. [email protected] can assist! We can also make custom if needbe.
 
Just got off the phone with Sig about the left eye focus issues, and they are having me RMA mine to them. Just a head's up for anybody else running into this, it sounds like it isn't expected.

Good to hear it may not just be eye issues.
 
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Can you make some that are soft open/close? In other words - no noise. I had to stop using flip caps on my rifles because they would scare game.

All I will say at this point is...........I've got something in progress that I'm confident will be considered the nicest caps available ;)