New brass for a "serious" match? Your B class scores should be more of a concern.
- Thread starter PinesAndProjectiles
- Start date
Am I a B?
I did just fine at the last state championship.And new brass is certainly a necessity if you're shooting at any Level II+ match. I'm not traveling 1000+ miles to a large match and not reducing one of the variables that means the difference between winning and losing.
You two dipshits take your pissing match somewhere else.
Am I a B?
And new brass is certainly a necessity if you're shooting at any Level II+ match. I'm not traveling 1000+ miles to a large match and not reducing one of the variables that means the difference between winning and losing.
I've spent too much time on BEF, that's the sort of advice B and C shooters throw around. Not to mention 650/750 aren't used by most of the high volume serious shooters. If you have to worry about your reloads you should probably fix your process. Your "serious match" ammo shouldn't be any different than all the rest of your ammo.
I've loaded 200k+ plus rounds on a 650. There's quite a bit of bullshit suggestions in this thread. You don't know the difference either.
Tbh, I load all my match ammo in 1-2 weekends for the year and any practice ammo as needed. I have no desire to own a 1100/1050 (2 year warranty and expensive caliber conversions) and I sold my Mark 7 because it was a POS. Large volume with the 650/750 has been fine for my needs for 20+ years.
Shooting Open, especially at large matches, I don't want my ammo to be a variable. So I load it new. We all know who Open shooters are: ones that have lost matches due to ammo issues, and those that will.
So?
Doesn’t mean your reading comprehension is up to par.
Like I said, go start your own thread if you want to tell us all about how great you are.
Beliw is your original post. Nothing about my posts in this thread is about myself other than to tell you my experience. You stated you didn't want to spend much extra money and want to know about other people's "oh shit moments". If you spent less time being a hall monitor you might have picked up the "oh shit moment" you asked for. Unfortunately you seem kinda stupid which makes me question whether or not you should be reloading in the first place.
I'll spell it out because it may help someone else. Iron out your pistol ammo process instead of wasting money and time on stuff like sorting brass, trimming pistol brass (wtf?), case gaging loaded ammo, or using special brass. The 650/750 doesn't lend itself to swagging brass despite products like the Swage-It (I have one, it sucks). Roll sizing first really improves how well a 650 works but isn't strictly necessary. Cull stepped brass, etc. Don't rely on alarms, look in every case. The list goes on, this is process, not aftermarket parts.
Here you offer some actual insight, before that you were just being a jackass.
Wow, that got out of hand quick lol.
Back to gun BS: I think it's mostly about the process and setting things up just right rather than needing gadgets or needing to buy fancier shit.
At different points, over the years I've had my ass kicked by quite a few B's, A's, M's and even GM's who loaded all of their rounds on a 650/750. If you set them up right, forget those delusions you once had about caliber changes, and have the patience to dial them in, they'll reliably pump out lots of good, or even great, ammo.
Along with setting up the crimp die more like a "bell removal die", the other side of the dark magic is the flare/bell process... Even if you're not ready for a Mr. Bullet Feeder, youwant need the MBF powder funnel (you can buy just the funnel here: https://www.doublealpha.biz/us/mr-bulletfeeder-powder-funnel), it's 1000% better than the Dillon piece. The trick is to set it up so it only flares the cases just barely enough to accept a bullet, the minimum amount of flare you can get by with (whether dropping bullets with an MBF or placing them by hand), no more.
As someone getting older and slower than I'd like, I shoot more PRS than USPSA these days, but I've gotten better at making shitloads of 9mm than I ever was when I was really burning through it (back when I thought spending $1+ on a single rifle round was crazy lol).
Back to gun BS: I think it's mostly about the process and setting things up just right rather than needing gadgets or needing to buy fancier shit.
At different points, over the years I've had my ass kicked by quite a few B's, A's, M's and even GM's who loaded all of their rounds on a 650/750. If you set them up right, forget those delusions you once had about caliber changes, and have the patience to dial them in, they'll reliably pump out lots of good, or even great, ammo.
Along with setting up the crimp die more like a "bell removal die", the other side of the dark magic is the flare/bell process... Even if you're not ready for a Mr. Bullet Feeder, you
As someone getting older and slower than I'd like, I shoot more PRS than USPSA these days, but I've gotten better at making shitloads of 9mm than I ever was when I was really burning through it (back when I thought spending $1+ on a single rifle round was crazy lol).
According to the RCBS instructions…………..flare should be the bullet diameter plus .030”
So the OD of the flare is .386.
That seems to be plenty, and I could probably get away with less. But after this thing is up and running, I may modify it.
I’ve only loaded maybe 75 rounds.
Waiting on more brass to arrive.
The Dillon flair/bell funnel seems to stick no matter how much or little I flair the case mouth. Brass is dry tumbled with nufinish and mineral spirits. Clean and slippery. Does the DAA part in your link solve the sticking issue? Because that might be the best $40 ever spent for reloading.
FWIW, I have a Mr. Bulletfeeder, that came with it's own "flare/bell funnel". Brass would stick to it, so I chucked it up in the lathe and polished it with a Scotchbrite pad. Took care of the sticking problem.
The case should only be flared enough to seat a bullet without shaving jacket, lead, or PC. Don't flare any more than that. The actual measurement is irrelevant. Don't crimp the case, only remove the flare to flat.
Yes, for the most part, @Threadcutter308 mentioned the scotchbrite which is what some seem to need (but not mine).
@Cascade Hemi nailed it on the flare IMO, it’s more of a “feel thing” than a number, and trying to even measure it correctly is sketchy at best. It’s much easier to set up by feel IMO (kinda like the crimp die and a Hundo), there’s a point where you’ve left yourself just enough flare to where a bullet will stay put as the shell plate advances… if dropping bullets on top is super easy and doesn’t need to be deliberate, then you’ve probably got too much flare going lol.
If using a bullet feeder, does the larger flare assist in keeping the bullet where it needs to be until seated?
Or is minimal flare acceptable?
I haven’t used a bullet feeder but am looking to purchase one eventually.
Yes, the bulletfeeder comes with it's own powder funnel that replces the Dillon and yes, it flares as well.
The amount of flare is dependant on the adjustment of the powder measure, again, just like the Dillon powder funnel.
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It’s kind of difficult to describe until you get there, but you want the minimum amount of flare to where a case will still accept a bullet, but just enough, and this should also give you enough of a friction fit to where you can run the press and advance the shell plate without the bullets falling off before they get seated at the next station.
This is why finding a perfect measurement on the amount of flare can be tough.
The MBF powder funnel works exactly like the Dillon version (just drops in) but it flares the cases in a very different, and frankly, much better way. The MBF funnel is more curved and “coke bottle shaped” versus the straight-tapered Dillon piece.
The stock Dillon powder funnel is much more of a PITA and I could see why it could make things frustrating enough for guys to start sorting by headstamp…
Keep in mind that when adding a Bulletfeeder, it will consume 1 of 5 positions in the toolhead. If you are using seperate seater and crimp dies, then you will have to give up your powder check.
I use a combo seater/crimper die from Lee and it works quite well. It gives me the benefit of being able to use my powder check.
IMHO there’s no need for a powder check on the 750 with 9mm, powder drop in station #2 is right up front where one can see and if using something like N320 or Sport Pistol a double charge will spill over and cause a mess you’ll catch immediately… faster powders like Titegroup, where a double charge will fit in a case, is a little more sketchy, but one has to almost be a total idiot or doing it on purpose to double charge a case on a 750 (JMHO).
Short stroke and then getting distracted can cause it (squib). It's how a dude lost his fingers and shrapnel to his face in an Area match. I wrapped that dude's hand up while also dealing with the 3 other competitors that passed out from the blood. What a shit show.
I personally don't run a powder check since a double charge will be spilling like you said (N320 for minor loads and SWMP for major loads). But I do visually check each case for powder before the MrBF.
I've got 650's, not that that is probably any more justification for a powder check than on a 750 based on your statement(s). I run Autodrives and things can go sideways in a hurry if you're not watching things like a hawk.
I do it for peace of mind. Others may feel differently, which there's nothing wrong with that. To each their own.
I’m running the RCBS seating/crimp die so I’m only consuming 3 of the 5 stations.
When we set up the press, we left station three open for a future bullet feeder. Station 5 is also open, but unless using separate dies for seating and crimping, I don’t see it being used.
Dang, that sounds horrible.
I use my Mark 1 eyeballs as well, when loading on the 750 there’s a subconscious trance I go into where I watch the fresh primer going in then watch the empty primer arm coming back while taking a look at the powder that was just dropped in the case…
Honestly, if there were enough stations, I’d always want to error on the side of safety and I would run a powder check too.
A $15 endoscope from Amazon through the powder check hole lets you look into every case without having to lean forward.
Has anyone used one of these?
Looks like it would work fine and it’s got a two year warranty.
Looks like it would work fine and it’s got a two year warranty.
US Veteran Handmade Auto BRASS Reload Feeder for 9mm, 40 & 45cal. | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for US Veteran Handmade Auto BRASS Reload Feeder for 9mm, 40 & 45cal. at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
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Just get a Dillon Casefeeder with a Double Alpha case plate. It's super fast. Plus you get Dillon's warranty.Has anyone used one of these?
Looks like it would work fine and it’s got a two year warranty.
US Veteran Handmade Auto BRASS Reload Feeder for 9mm, 40 & 45cal. | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for US Veteran Handmade Auto BRASS Reload Feeder for 9mm, 40 & 45cal. at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!www.ebay.com
I have the Dillon casefeeders, no complaints. I haven't tried the DAA case plate, but I hear it's the shizzle.
It nearly double (dare I say... Triple?) the output of the casefeeder.
It's great for automation or a rollsizer.
Yep, I have a friend who put it on his Dillon prep machine (CP2000 ?). He may have even put one on his rollsizer too. Anyway, he's the one that old me about how happy he was with it/them.
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