Re: Superior Shooting Systems Remy 700 Bolt...
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: chpprguy</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Scooter-PIE</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I just bought a PT&G bolt and had to learn what "timing" is. I still don't really know what it is...guess it is attaching the handle properly so it works with the selected action. Anyway, the one thing I did learn, was to send the action in along with the bolt....otherwise it can't be timed. Also, learned there is this thing called TIG welding that seems to be the preferred/strongest weld. Then, I learned that Nathan Dagley is a hot shot gunsmith who does great TIG welding:
http://www.straightshotgunsmithing.com/
Still don't really know what "timing" is....oh well, Nathan could probably explain it

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Nice looking work,
one caveat.........
the second video of the bolt handle welding that shows the underside of the bolts....
at least two of the bolts show heat discoloration up to and perhaps farther than 1/2" away from the weld area......
This can ruin the temper on the cocking cam surface.... (steel)
those bolts look stainless, too much heat on some 300 series stainless can cause crack sensitization in the "heat affected zone"
(area around the weld)
I am not a gunsmith...
I am a professional welder....
AWS certified, and an AWS certified weld inspector...
Not trying to bash anyone.... the ability to lay down a nice bead is good, and important.
To have an understanding of interpass temperatures and what you are doing to the base material is paramount..... </div></div>
<span style="color: #33CC00">Just came across this post and thought I would offer my rebuttal</span>
Nice looking work, <span style="color: #33CC00">Thanks</span>one caveat.........
the second video of the bolt handle welding that shows the underside of the bolts....
at least two of the bolts show heat discoloration up to and perhaps farther than 1/2" away from the weld area...... <span style="color: #33CC00">when silver soldering, metal needs to achieve 1200 degrees to melt the solder. You can not stop heat by drawing a line and saying "don't pass this" There is no way to weld on a handle without getting the steel hot enough to change colors. Some people set their welder very low to make a pretty looking weld, but the weld is only that, pretty. The weld has no penetration and can be broken off as easy or easier than a silver soldered on handle. The key here is after welding let the bolt cool slowly. Do NOT quench in water or oil at most you will only drop a couple points in RC and should easily be above RC-40. I have tested the hardness after the welding and have never found a noticeable loss of RC in the cocking cam, although tig welding needs to get the metal 2580*F. it does it in a fraction of the time it takes to heat a whole bolt and handle to 1200* therefore effecting less area. I have had bolts here silver soldered on by very good and well know silver soldiers' That do countless numbers of bolts a year and they have had discoloration as far as an inch from the handle. There have been no issues. I can not even see any wear on cocking cams that I have run ten thousand rounds through. I am definitely not a "know it all", but I do research and extensive testing on the services I offer, before I offer them. All my work is guaranteed 100% and I will go the extra mile if there ever were any issues with any of my services.</span>This can ruin the temper on the cocking cam surface.... (steel)<span style="color: #33CC00">I have not found this to be the case when cooled slowly. </span>
those bolts look stainless, too much heat on some 300 series stainless can cause crack sensitization in the "heat affected zone" <span style="color: #33CC00">This is very interesting, if these bolts were 300 series stainless then we would have a problem, not only in the cocking cam area, but in the locking lugs as well. 300 series stainless is no match for 4140 for holding pressure. The reason 300 series can crack when welding is because it holds heat. It does not disperse, almost like an insulator. I am not aware of any custom action manufactures that are using stainless bolts, if there is it would probably be more like a 17-4 stainless or similar alloy, but when you are talking about safety, a 4000 series CM steel is best.</span> (area around the weld)
I am not a gunsmith...
I am a professional welder....
AWS certified, and an AWS certified weld inspector...
Not trying to bash anyone.... the ability to lay down a nice bead is good, and important., <span style="color: #33CC00">true, but not as important as a strong weld. Welds can look pretty beautiful on the outside, but be an accident waiting to happen on the inside hence the reason for weld X-rays.. reminds me of a bible verse. Man looks at the outward appearance, but the LORD looks at the heart.</span> To have an understanding of interpass temperatures and what you are doing to the base material is paramount..... <span style="color: #33CC00">I totally agree!! Some people hear the word weld and freak"</span>
<span style="color: #33CC00">308nate</span>