Out to a mile with 300-WM ... further with 300-PRC ... furthest with 338-LM.What calibers are you using for ELR stuff? Super intrigued by the 375 EnABELR.
Out to a mile with 300-WM ... further with 300-PRC ... furthest with 338-LM.What calibers are you using for ELR stuff? Super intrigued by the 375 EnABELR.
It reduces the eye relief somewhat, as well as the optical quality when looking through your scope, but it's one of the only better solutions out there. There's another one, forgot the name of it that seems to be good also. Forget the PhoneSkope, it doesn't seem rated for recoil higher than .223. It also didn't allow fitting to a Razor ocular.I always wanted to try a tacticam, how is the eye relief with it on?
You definitely don't want to blast the anodizing off. I have been Cerakoting as a hobby for years and know the process well. The manual advises just to lightly blast the anodized surface, just to rough it up, with 100 grit AO. Anodizing imparts hardness and I'm sure I read somewhere that Barrett anodizes prior to applying cerakote.What is the Cerakote color code for the MK22? Is it Elite Series? I heard someone say it's "Coyote" but not sure which series Barrett is using.
I have an early model "Multi-role-brown" and the finish is so flawless inside and out, that it leads me to believe it might be anodized instead of coated. Anyone can confirm? I'd hate to blast off an anodized finish.
Yeah, I don't completely blast the ano off either. I don't think the MRB color is coated, rather I believe it's anodized, but maybe they use robots to coat and that's why it looks flawless. If it's standard FDE, I don't really like that color cause of the slightly greenish-gray tint it has. Maybe my batch of FDE is older and just looks weird to my eye. Yours looks great, so maybe I just get Barrett's color code that they use. I'd rather use Magpul FDE that has a more earthen tone to it than plain FDE (going by what my stock of FDE looks like which is like 6 years old now) I know they have a shelf life, but my bottles are all stored inside, climate-controlled, and the only thing that has gone bad were the catalysts, which I get new ones every few months.You definitely don't want to blast the anodizing off. I have been Cerakoting as a hobby for years and know the process well. The manual advises just to lightly blast the anodized surface, just to rough it up, with 100 grit AO. Anodizing imparts hardness and I'm sure I read somewhere that Barrett anodizes prior to applying cerakote.
Based on the FDE that came on my Barrett I am fairly confident they are using the H-series. The Elite has quite a bit more glossy surface and you can't vary the hardener to achieve more or less gloss. I've done quite a few rifles with E-200. If you look at my post with pic on the last page, the Nightforce ATACR, mag, and barrel are C-series (no bake-high heat) FDE and a perfect match to the Barrett finish. The raptor mount, bipod, ARCA rail, bag rider and picatinny rails are E-series FDE. Spuhr mount appears to be H-series and also perfect match.
If you email Barrett, I am sure they would tell you what Coyote it is.
I like the greenish hue. This is slightly off topic but here is the biggest Cerakote job I've ever done... My 2008 Tundra in Magpul FDE and Desert Sage. Rims and bumper are NIC Prismatic Powder Pale Brown... closest match to FDE (looks closer in person).Yeah, I don't completely blast the ano off either. I don't think the MRB color is coated, rather I believe it's anodized, but maybe they use robots to coat and that's why it looks flawless. If it's standard FDE, I don't really like that color cause of the slightly greenish-gray tint it has. Maybe my batch of FDE is older and just looks weird to my eye. Yours looks great, so maybe I just get Barrett's color code that they use. I'd rather use Magpul FDE that has a more earthen tone to it than plain FDE (going by what my stock of FDE looks like which is like 6 years old now) I know they have a shelf life, but my bottles are all stored inside, climate-controlled, and the only thing that has gone bad were the catalysts, which I get new ones every few months.
I haven't tried Elite-series yet because of the inability to set sheen, and certainly don't want a glossy gun. I'll do a bit more research, and see what I decide.
Thanks for your input
Thats a very Hillux, middle east vibe.I like the greenish hue. This is slightly off topic but here is the biggest Cerakote job I've ever done... My 2008 Tundra in Magpul FDE and Desert Sage. Rims and bumper are NIC Prismatic Powder Pale Brown... closest match to FDE (looks closer in person).
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Cool breeze ... glad to hear it. I shoot mine suppressed, and the recoil is even easier to manage. Working on load development now ... in search of the perfect combination of bullet and charge.Finally shot my MRAD 300PRC today with the ammo I ripped from Rusty's local gun store. I really didn't know what to expect with the recoil. Would it be an exaggeration to say it recoiled about like an AR-15? My POF Revolution 308 recoils more than the MRAD. I was down at the end table and I can say the people 4 benches away were not liking that Barrett muzzle brake.
I'm really impressed with the Bartlein accuracy even though I don't yet have a Barrett barrel to compare it to. I had a three shot, 0.25 MOA group going at 200 yards before proceeding to jerk the $h&# out of the trigger on the next two shots. Also at 200 yards I had a few 5-shot horizontal groups that were less than 1.5" wide and .5" tall. It was pretty windy today in Phoenix so I'm blaming that.
I dry-fired the new Barrett trigger quite a bit after installing it and thought it was close to perfect out of the box. However, there is no substitute for shooting it and I am definitely going to lighten that 2nd stage up.
I'm still working it, but I'm close. My first ladder tests were too lightly charged and didn't have the velocity I was looking for. I bumped that up and my next ladder tests showed early pressure signs (heavy bolt, ejector swipes, etc.). I've got two "tweener" tests loaded for the next nice weather day, and I expect them to be fairly revelatory. They are:@rustyinbend what have you tried so far?
I’m just about to start, and want the best 1k to 1-mile hunting load. Precision is a factor but not so much as damage will become a factor. If it holds within a reliable threshold.
I find the node, get a tight group, and then tweak seating depth. That's how I roll ...I hear 338 powders like retumbo are sensitive to seating depth, that coube a variable to tweak also if you’re looking for nodes.
I agree with you that it implies the tolerances were all tight, but it was just pure luck that the tolerances did offset each other. So I would say a combination of top quality components and pure coincidence.I forgot to tell you something that has never happened to me. When I sighted in my MRAD, the windage zero wound up right at the Nightforce ATACR factory zero. Was that a fluke or a testament to the barrel rail tolerance, the Spuhr rings, and the Nightforce?
It was a fluke.I forgot to tell you something that has never happened to me. When I sighted in my MRAD, the windage zero wound up right at the Nightforce ATACR factory zero. Was that a fluke or a testament to the barrel rail tolerance, the Spuhr rings, and the Nightforce?
dont ruin it for him.It was a fluke.
OK ... it was expected and repeatable predestination based upon the aggregate quality and precision of the associated interoperable elements. (Is that better?)dont ruin it for him.![]()
Haters gonna hate.....OK ... it was expected and repeatable predestination based upon the aggregate quality and precision of the associated interoperable elements. (Is that better?)
A little job I did yesterday. Adding M-Lok slots to an MRAD.
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YesI forgot to tell you something that has never happened to me. When I sighted in my MRAD, the windage zero wound up right at the Nightforce ATACR factory zero. Was that a fluke or a testament to the barrel rail tolerance, the Spuhr rings, and the Nightforce?
You might want to call or email Barrett and ask about the barrel maker to see if it will work on the smr:Can anyone definitively confirm that an MRAD SMR cannot support either a barrel conversion to a different barrel or that a custom barrel cannot be installed to support a different caliber (i.e .308 to 300 Norma)? Thank you much!
The barrel makers kit will not work on the SMR. Post #1409 addresses that guys question.You might want to call or email Barrett and ask about the barrel maker to see if it will work on the smr:
Barrett Store - MRAD Barrel Makers Kit "C" 308 Family
MRAD Barrel Makers Kit "C" 308 Familystore.barrett.net
Here is your answer @OrDad From their own website: no bolts for barrel conversion, The Single Mission Rifle name comes from the fact that the rifle is set from the factory in only one caliber, unlike the interchangeable barrel ability of the standard MRAD. The primary distinction of the SMR is the free float barrel which is held in the upper receiver with a standard barrel nut. Source: https://barrett.net/products/firearms/mrad-smr/
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There's the answer. A big NO.The barrel makers kit will not work on the SMR. Post #1409 addresses that guys question.
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I don't have the price completed yet but the initial estimate was less than that and combined with the machine work it really made it a no-brainer. The estimate was very reasonable. And as you can see, the work to make those slots went lickety split, for sure took more time to upload the program than it did to cut it out.I might need that done to mine if I don’t sell it, wggats that job run? Barrett said they would recoat the rifle for $350 I used to want it in ODG.
You think a 338 EnabELR barrel would work for MRAD conversion if you didn't mag feed?Hey for anyone doing a barrel makers kit, make sure the shank of the barrel is 1.25x 5inches long before the taper starts if you're doing anything other than straight contour.
I don't think so. You'd have to open a bolt face. 338 lapua bolt face is .585 enabler is .635 similar to a cheytac. That's why I'm working on a 33xc and 37xc, cause I can use a lapua boltface, but single feed it.You think a 338 EnabELR barrel would work for MRAD conversion if you didn't mag feed?
could always glue a dowel or two into a mag, but why?Anyone know where I can get mag block or sled for the MRAD to facilitate shooting single-shot? I messaged the numerous AICS single shot sled sellers on fleabay but not one seems to have one for the MRAD.
People's Republic of California??could always glue a dowel or two into a mag, but why?
On a bolt gun? Have they gone that stupid?People's Republic of California??
I really hope not. Would actually make me angryOn a bolt gun? Have they gone that stupid?