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The "New" Barrett MRAD Thread!!!!!!

Hi guys,

Hope all of you are well. Looking to see what you guys have done to lower the pull weight of the stock 2 stage trigger that comes w the barret mrad smr. I have the 6.5 CM version and was tempted to buy the Barret 2 stage flat trigger from Barret but upon looking into it, the indicates the lowest recommended setting was 1.75 lbs. Timney offers a curved 2 stage trigger as low as 1.5 lbs. ideally I wanted to get something to the 1 lb to 1.25 lb. what options have you guys seen out there outside of these two?

A thought inhad was, instead of spending the 315-400$ on a new trigger I was thinking of replacing the set screw on the factory trigger with a shorter one that would allow me to keep it flush but shoot to lower the trigger past the 2.25 lb threshold the booklet indicated. Anyone tried this?

In either case I will call Barret about changing that set screw amd see what they tell me. Thanks in advance for the share of info.


Damian
 
BURZ said:
I sure do - I have a .308 - bought now both .338NM and .300NM - I will not lie, I cannot find ammo anywhere except .308. I went into it thinking that 338 and 300NM would become more and more available but it seems scarce everywhere, not to mention in my state where I cannot get shipments in from other places in the nation. Which simply just makes everything worse. In the end I need to shoot a ton of .308 for training so it is not a loss, but at barrel kit prices I might have gone a slightly different way if I had educated myself on just how scarce ammo would be.

I had done my research on reloading my own and at the time the costs were more than I wanted to invest, now I am thinking it is time to look at that multi thousand doller investment and even larger investment in time to offset my caliber decisions.

I did invest for the long term with the MRAD thou, so only a bump in the road, or a wait till I have more time to learn reloading for those.
Click to expand...
Brother
Its not easy for me neither
Im located in North Europe, hard to find anything. 1yr delivery time for a barrell, but i do reload myself though
 
308Nomad said:
Brother
Its not easy for me neither
Im located in North Europe, hard to find anything. 1yr delivery time for a barrell, but i do reload myself though
Click to expand...

Good to hear and well bad to hear. I will admit I waited almost 2 years for my MRAD, then I would say the wait on the .338 was about 8 months with the quickest delivery on the .300nm being only because they were releasing some kits with the military kits that come first (that only took about 3-4 months now. Both of those kits direct from Barrett. I just have to go down the reloading road but first I need to spend some real time in seeing if I can even get the actualy components.
 
dcarrillo24 said:
Hi guys,

Hope all of you are well. Looking to see what you guys have done to lower the pull weight of the stock 2 stage trigger that comes w the barret mrad smr. I have the 6.5 CM version and was tempted to buy the Barret 2 stage flat trigger from Barret but upon looking into it, the indicates the lowest recommended setting was 1.75 lbs. Timney offers a curved 2 stage trigger as low as 1.5 lbs. ideally I wanted to get something to the 1 lb to 1.25 lb. what options have you guys seen out there outside of these two?

A thought inhad was, instead of spending the 315-400$ on a new trigger I was thinking of replacing the set screw on the factory trigger with a shorter one that would allow me to keep it flush but shoot to lower the trigger past the 2.25 lb threshold the booklet indicated. Anyone tried this?

In either case I will call Barret about changing that set screw amd see what they tell me. Thanks in advance for the share of info.


Damian
Click to expand...

I would be interested to see what they tell you as I am sure there are some opinions to be had from there. With it being a military gun at it's heart it is more about durability than anything, how the conversion into a more precision or hunting platform would be interesting to hear as they have really been pushing the platform for hunting more and more. I find the rifle interesting as it is so flexible, yet with some of that flexibility comes compromise and once you mix those things can become less and less amazing. But we are also talking about a small overall % of users. I would be interested to know how many of these actually exist in the wild as of today. Are we talking about 1000 units or 20000 units, and I mean aside from the ones going to the US military.
 
308Nomad said:
Hi dear MRAD family
I wanna get one more barrel for my Rad
Currently have 308. and 338lm

Thinking about 300NM?
Do they make 300PRC?


Any imput please
Click to expand...
.300NM is going to be slightly (very slightly) better performance. However, it is a little more difficult to buy factory ammo than .300 PRC.

Either way you go, you won’t be upset.
 
Could someone with a full MK22 deployment kit just confirm what specifically is in these pockets / sections.

Also what specific cleaning rod it is packaged with?
 

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BURZ said:
Could someone with a full MK22 deployment kit just confirm what specifically is in these pockets / sections.

Also what specific cleaning rod it is packaged with?
Click to expand...
Two things on the top left are bore guides, like .30 cal and .338 cal https://store.barrett.net/p-5417-mrad-bore-guide-30-2-o-rings.aspx

Sadly the list doesn't get into specifics, I saw another website say dewey cleaning rod.

Components Included With The Barrett Mark 22 Advanced Sniper Rifle System Deployment Kit​

  • (1) Pelican 1770 Protector Hard Case (58"x18"x10")
  • (1) Armageddon Gear Soft Case
  • (2) Bore Guides for 7.62 and .300/.338
  • (1) Stock Spacer Kit with 4 Spacers and Hardware
  • (1) Cleaning Kit with Rod
  • (1) Tool Kit with Torque Wrench, Bits, and Operator Spare Parts Kit
  • (5) 10 Round Magazines for 7.62x51mm NATO, .300NM, and .338NM
  • (1) Armageddon Gear Precision Rifle Sling
  • (1) Harris Bipod
  • (1) Armageddon Suppressor Cover
 
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schmi015 said:
Two things on the top left are bore guides, like .30 cal and .338 cal https://store.barrett.net/p-5417-mrad-bore-guide-30-2-o-rings.aspx

Sadly the list doesn't get into specifics, I saw another website say dewey cleaning rod.

Components Included With The Barrett Mark 22 Advanced Sniper Rifle System Deployment Kit​

  • (1) Pelican 1770 Protector Hard Case (58"x18"x10")
  • (1) Armageddon Gear Soft Case
  • (2) Bore Guides for 7.62 and .300/.338
  • (1) Stock Spacer Kit with 4 Spacers and Hardware
  • (1) Cleaning Kit with Rod
  • (1) Tool Kit with Torque Wrench, Bits, and Operator Spare Parts Kit
  • (5) 10 Round Magazines for 7.62x51mm NATO, .300NM, and .338NM
  • (1) Armageddon Gear Precision Rifle Sling
  • (1) Harris Bipod
  • (1) Armageddon Suppressor Cover
Click to expand...

Thanks - Bore guides it is. I assume the other is a stock spacer kit or who knows what stuffed in there.
 
dcarrillo24 said:
Hi guys,

Hope all of you are well. Looking to see what you guys have done to lower the pull weight of the stock 2 stage trigger that comes w the barret mrad smr. I have the 6.5 CM version and was tempted to buy the Barret 2 stage flat trigger from Barret but upon looking into it, the indicates the lowest recommended setting was 1.75 lbs. Timney offers a curved 2 stage trigger as low as 1.5 lbs. ideally I wanted to get something to the 1 lb to 1.25 lb. what options have you guys seen out there outside of these two?

A thought inhad was, instead of spending the 315-400$ on a new trigger I was thinking of replacing the set screw on the factory trigger with a shorter one that would allow me to keep it flush but shoot to lower the trigger past the 2.25 lb threshold the booklet indicated. Anyone tried this?

In either case I will call Barret about changing that set screw amd see what they tell me. Thanks in advance for the share of info.


Damian
Click to expand...
I replaced the second stage spring with a lighter spring. You need to drive out a roll pin to do it. Leave the first stage spring alone. I measured the diameter and length of the spring as well as wire diameter and ordered one from Lee Spring online. I can't remember the size off hand but ordered several and stuck with the stiffest of them. You need to make sure the tension is set strong enough that the first stage doesn't overpower the second stage. Still, I have it at well under a pound on the second stage. I also filed out the creep at the sear a bit and now it is easily one of the best triggers I have. Super easy to work on.
 
ScarlettRed said:
I replaced the second stage spring with a lighter spring. You need to drive out a roll pin to do it. Leave the first stage spring alone. I measured the diameter and length of the spring as well as wire diameter and ordered one from Lee Spring online. I can't remember the size off hand but ordered several and stuck with the stiffest of them. You need to make sure the tension is set strong enough that the first stage doesn't overpower the second stage. Still, I have it at well under a pound on the second stage. I also filed out the creep at the sear a bit and now it is easily one of the best triggers I have. Super easy to work on.
Click to expand...
I figured it would resort to something like this. I tried my best to not mess w it internally and the best was a 3lb pull weight, not even close to where i want it. I thank you for you info, I am going to look into it further and learn the internals of the trigger and get it to where i want. I imagine you had to swap the springs out a couple of times before you got it down to where you wanted correct? My 1st stage seems to be more than 1lb to start w, I'm going to double check that and make sure the 2nd pull wt is > the 1st.


With regards to the creep, was that fixed due to the spring swap or did you have to tinker w it somemore?

super helpful man, thank you. Damian
 
dcarrillo24 said:
I figured it would resort to something like this. I tried my best to not mess w it internally and the best was a 3lb pull weight, not even close to where i want it. I thank you for you info, I am going to look into it further and learn the internals of the trigger and get it to where i want. I imagine you had to swap the springs out a couple of times before you got it down to where you wanted correct? My 1st stage seems to be more than 1lb to start w, I'm going to double check that and make sure the 2nd pull wt is > the 1st.


With regards to the creep, was that fixed due to the spring swap or did you have to tinker w it somemore?

super helpful man, thank you. Damian
Click to expand...
 
Just leave the first stage springs alone. Study the trigger and you'll find it rather simple. Be careful if you file out the sear engagement as you don't want an unsafe trigger. I tried about 5 springs as I had no idea which I needed but ended up with the stiffest i ordered and cranked the set screw a bit to make sure it was stiff enough not to be overpowered by the first stage pull. Use a micrometer to measure the current spring dimensions and see if you can find a few at the higher end of the scale. Lee Spring charges ridiculous shipping so you don't want to screw it up. Maybe I can find my invoice order and I can let you know what size I ordered. It's been a year and a half or so.
 
I looked up my old invoice. Lee Spring part #LC 016A 02 S316. Don't go lighter than this size. You'll still have to crank the set screw as you still need some tension. It made my mrad trigger fantastic.
 
ScarlettRed said:
I looked up my old invoice. Lee Spring part #LC 016A 02 S316. Don't go lighter than this size. You'll still have to crank the set screw as you still need some tension. It made my mrad trigger fantastic.
Click to expand...
@scarlettRedd - Thank you for taking the time to do all of this. I really appreciate it. With your help i have some direction to go in other than spending the $400 for the new trigger route. I prefer to keep my original and learn to work with my rifle. I am ordering the necessary items to get a good foundation to work on this trigger. I have already looked at the Lee Springs website and will call them during this week to ask about those springs. I'll share more as I progress through this route.


Damian
 
Anyone else's have a lot of slop/play in the buttpad area? Seems to be in the vertical adjustment area. "A lot" might be a slight exaggeration, but it definitely wobbles around making a clicking sound.
 
MerkZ said:
Anyone else's have a lot of slop/play in the buttpad area? Seems to be in the vertical adjustment area. "A lot" might be a slight exaggeration, but it definitely wobbles around making a clicking sound.
Click to expand...

I have that on mine - I assume we all might. Seems to be that the tolerances there were either done that way on purpose for adverse conditions or that is just not as perfectly crafted as we might expect. But now that you pointed it out, I will always see it / hear it
 
BURZ said:
I have that on mine - I assume we all might. Seems to be that the tolerances there were either done that way on purpose for adverse conditions or that is just not as perfectly crafted as we might expect. But now that you pointed it out, I will always see it / hear it
Click to expand...
Sorry bout that 😂
 
As soon as I find some ammo, I will just shoot it without ear protection and never have to worry about it again. Minus the new ringing that now replaces it.

I might email the person at Barrett that has been more than patient with my questions for the last 3 years and see what they might say about it.


MerkZ said:
Sorry bout that 😂
Click to expand...
 
BURZ said:
That is interesting and makes me wonder how one would know this...
Click to expand...
Looks like they made it out of the factory. Its intersting think about the inspection process in the field(?). Eg, if there were some gross failures (cracks?) and then they x-rayed a bunch of them or something (?). or if there was a geometry problem that showed up, where something basically wasn't straight.
 
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ScarlettRed said:
I looked up my old invoice. Lee Spring part #LC 016A 02 S316. Don't go lighter than this size. You'll still have to crank the set screw as you still need some tension. It made my mrad trigger fantastic.
Click to expand...
Thanks Scarlett
ScarlettRed said:
I looked up my old invoice. Lee Spring part #LC 016A 02 S316. Don't go lighter than this size. You'll still have to crank the set screw as you still need some tension. It made my mrad trigger fantastic.
Click to expand...
Hey ScarlettRed - I started playing with my trigger assembly and learned the internal components. eventhough it's easy, this will be my first trigger spring change and I want to make sure I'm messing with the right parts. The blue circle has the 1st stage trigger and the red the 2nd stage correct? I measured out my 1st stage trigger pull and it's ~ 1 lb to 1.25 lb trigger pull. The total pull was 3 lbs so I presume the 2nd stage was ~1.75-2 lbs. This was tested several times with everything in place.

The product number you gave, what was that for exactly? I figure that if I want to get my overall trig pull wt down to 1.25-1.5 i have to lighten the 1st stage to 1 lb so I have a second wall correct? Which variation of springs did you buy and play with?

Really appreciate your help with this.
 

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Just want to make sure that I can get one of the barrel conversion kits and use it with the CJ designated prefix rifles and not have any problems.

And want to make sure that I am not missing out on any updated changes that may be beneficial by getting an older version.
 
Weberferguson said:
Just want to make sure that I can get one of the barrel conversion kits and use it with the CJ designated prefix rifles and not have any problems.

And want to make sure that I am not missing out on any updated changes that may be beneficial by getting an older version.
Click to expand...

Not being rude at all, but go back to page 46 and read the entire discussion about MRAD generational differences and which barrels are compatible with which prefixes.
 
Okay managed to read through those posts. I think I have it worked out.
But wasn't sure about this: moving on - the newer G3 barrels - will they be backwards compatible with the prior G2?
 
Here is what Barrett told me as I was totally confused from the info on the site: (mainly because I was thinking I could walk away with a deal)

The discounted barrels that you see on the webstore, are old stock part numbers that went with the older model MRAD rifles. In order for these barrels to be compatible in current MRAD rifles, they require the use of the large to small breech conversion kit. We are working on updating the description as there has been a good deal of confusion on when the breech conversion kit is necessary/applicable.


This answered my question and I just went with the latest models
 
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Weberferguson said:
Okay managed to read through those posts. I think I have it worked out.
But wasn't sure about this: moving on - the newer G3 barrels - will they be backwards compatible with the prior G2?
Click to expand...

Based on the design characteristics, the new barrels will be quasi compatible with the older small breech MRADs:

- Barrel will be 100% compatible with no modification
- Bolt head comes with the barrel, so no problems there
- You will need a new bolt with a captured bolt pin to run new barrels in your older MRAD.
 
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Big Worm said:
Based on the design characteristics, the new barrels will be quasi compatible with the older small breech MRADs:

- Barrel will be 100% compatible with no modification
- Bolt head comes with the barrel, so no problems there
- You will need a new bolt with a captured bolt pin to run new barrels in your older MRAD.
Click to expand...
thank you! I don’t see a bolt specifically for sale anywhere online and their customer service hasn’t been very responsive. Can I scavenge parts from the large to small breech conversion?
 
I picked up a Proof Carbon caliber conversion in 300prc for my MRAD. Is anyone else shooting this? How is it shooting?
 
I have a 300NM MRAD on the way, thanks to a hide member. Simple question that I think I know the answer to but want to confirm: the only OEM option to replace a shot-out barrel is to order the barrel conversion kit. Is that correct, or will Barrett support a barrel-only swap some other way so you don't have to also buy a new bolt and mag? Again, my understanding is you have to buy the kit or go aftermarket.
 
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cypriss32 said:
I picked up a Proof Carbon caliber conversion in 300prc for my MRAD. Is anyone else shooting this? How is it shooting?
Click to expand...

Dare I ask what that cost you in comparison to the ones from Barrett? Also I assume it is designed to work with existing bolt head that you already had?
 
I wanted to weigh in on the MRAD barrels my MRAD is CJ0019XX. Best I can tell and have been able to verify with my own extensions and one from a friend of mine. Barrett has four different barrel extensions. The original extension from the large bolt designed MRAD (friends gun .585 bolt) up until the MK22 era are all the same. You can use any bolt on any extension. I have been able to take a bolt from the AJ series .585 bolt face and put a .540 or .470 bolt in the same extension. The three pictured extensions will take all three bolt sizes. The left bolt is 308 (.470) and the right bolt is 300 WM (.540). Note that these bolts do not have acut out at the back for the cam pin retention mechanism. My rifle is a 300 PRC and you can rebarrel the rifle just like any other but will be limited what barrel blank because you have to have a long tenon section for the extension.


IMG_0006.JPG
 
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