This is what I have on my T1X with a Vortex Strike Eagle on it.Area 419 30MOA rail and be done. You can zero at 100yds and have enough elevation to shoot as far as you little heart desires.
T
This is what I have on my T1X with a Vortex Strike Eagle on it.Area 419 30MOA rail and be done. You can zero at 100yds and have enough elevation to shoot as far as you little heart desires.
T
What are you worried about with the 1.5"?I have the stock T1X with a 16”barrel I’d like to put it in the Oryx Sportsman Chassis, after contacting manufacturers i figure that I’ll have about 11/2” of barrel sticking out past the chassis, was wondering if anyone has the same setup if they would post a picture of it. I took a muzzle break off my grandson’s BuckMark just trying to make it longer, unfortunately my groups opened up
I’d like to have it out a little further,What are you worried about with the 1.5"?
The 20in barrel on my T1x sticks out about 5.25 inches from the end of the Oryx chassis.I have the stock T1X with a 16”barrel I’d like to put it in the Oryx Sportsman Chassis, after contacting manufacturers i figure that I’ll have about 11/2” of barrel sticking out past the chassis, was wondering if anyone has the same setup if they would post a picture of it. I took a muzzle break off my grandson’s BuckMark just trying to make it longer, unfortunately my groups opened up
Thank you for replyingThe 20in barrel on my T1x sticks out about 5.25 inches from the end of the Oryx chassis.
Glad to helpThank you for replying
I got mine from yodaveproductsBore guide suggestions,seems like everything is out of stock?
Bore Tech: https://www.boretech.com/products/bore-guide-bolt-action-rimfireBore guide suggestions,seems like everything is out of stock?
The Area 419 weighted rail will mount without any additional holes being drilled. It is 14.25 inches long so it will stick out past the end of the forend a few inches. It attaches easiest directly onto the factory stock without the beavertail forend, although you will have to find an extra rear action screw (the longer one) as the front action screw will now be too short). A couple small washers or a spacer then is needed to get the action screw to the proper depth. Then the front of the rail will attach using the sling stud mounting hole and one of the small bolts that comes with the rail.anyone know if there are any arca rails that mount to the factory stock preferably with (but w/o is okay too) a beavertail forend that dont require any additional holes to be drilled?
I know mountain tactical has the 9" one that should work okay, im wondering if any of the longer 10 or 12" Area 419 ones will install without any more holes needing to be drilled.
Yodave Products. https://www.yodaveproducts.com/?store-page=Tikka-T1X-22-Bore-Guide-p360404617Bore guide suggestions,seems like everything is out of stock?
I got one here:Bore guide suggestions,seems like everything is out of stock?
@Buckhead Thank you for the reply. Do you use the middle screw in the stock at all? The one between the action screw and the sling stud.
I didn't use the middle screw at all. One would have to drill a hole in the ARCA rail and I didn't want to do that.@Buckhead Thank you for the reply. Do you use the middle screw in the stock at all? The one between the action screw and the sling stud.
okay thanks for all the info. so you just take a regular length rear action/receiver bolt and used some washers? any specific washers or spacer height i should go for?I didn't use the middle screw at all. One would have to drill a hole in the ARCA rail and I didn't want to do that.
It seems to be solid like it is. I have the action screw torqued to 30 in/lbs and the sling stud screw at 20 in/lbs.
One needs to space it out far enough that it doesn't bottom out in the action but not so far that the head of the bolt sticks past the surface of the ARCA rail, then it will interfere with sliding the barricade stop on and off. Sorry, I don't take measurements for small projects like this, I just modify as I go and when it fits, it fits. I just pulled it apart and got the measurements. I just used a small piece of some stainless tubing I had kicking around, .382 OD and .295 ID. .179 thickness.okay thanks for all the info. so you just take a regular length rear action/receiver bolt and used some washers? any specific washers or spacer height i should go for?
It will drop in - ETA - There won't be a mag catch for the AICS Magazine, however so not advised.Does anyone know if a T1x KRG Bravo stock with take a T3 without modification?
I know you can't go T3 to T1 due to T1 magazine setup it never seen anything about going T1 to T3.
I modified my T3 bravo to take a T1x and can still use it on a T3 or T1x if I want to. The T1x bravo has no magazine lever, so how would that work when you put a T3 in it?Does anyone know if a T1x KRG Bravo stock with take a T3 without modification?
I know you can't go T3 to T1 due to T1 magazine setup it never seen anything about going T1 to T3.
I didn't think about lack of mag catch that'd certainly be a problem....I modified my T3 bravo to take a T1x and can still use it on a T3 or T1x if I want to. The T1x bravo has no magazine lever, so how would that work when you put a T3 in it? View attachment 7857534
5th time posting the mods in this T1x thread lol.I didn't think about lack of mag catch that'd certainly be a problem....
Do you have any pictures of the mods you did to get it to work with both T3 and T1?
Some post suggest it's just a little bit of relief required, others show much much more work involved.
I finally got around to modifying my T3 KRG Bravo to suit the T1x.
Pictures should explain it, but it involved a short head cap screw for the magazine well, drilling/counterboring 2x holes in the top of the Chassis to suit M3 screws (will probably change them to hex drive pan head - zinc philips were all I had on hand).
Drill and Tap M3 into the trigger guard due to the existing screw no longer being used.
Remove/Drill/Mill/File material to allow for Plastic Tab on Magazine and Cap screw.
I've checked it all assembled and can still use the T1x magazine with the AICS mag lever in place. The bottom rear of the magazine presses against it, but it means I can swap a T3/T3x and T1x in the one stock. I did make the Thru-holes a little bigger so the 2x M3 screws can slide a little back and forth to get the right tension when using AICS magazines still (original screw did the same).
Next up will be a Sterk handle and shroud
View attachment 7083527View attachment 7083529View attachment 7083530View attachment 7083531
I thought you probably would've I hadn't seen it in my travels around the Bravo and T1 threads.5th time posting the mods in this T1x thread lol.
I didn't think about lack of mag catch that'd certainly be a problem....
Do you have any pictures of the mods you did to get it to work with both T3 and T1?
Some post suggest it's just a little bit of relief required, others show much much more work involved.
No more missing fox at 10 yards. EO tech on a suppressed 17hmr is a better combination that I thought.
View attachment 7859803What stock is that? That’s a good looking setup you got there.
Nice lookin rigNo more missing fox at 10 yards. EO tech on a suppressed 17hmr is a better combination that I thought.
View attachment 7859803
SureI would like to get my T1x barreled action cerakoted.
Could this be done successfully without removing the barrel from the action ?
LRI coated my t1x. Very happy with the outcome.I would like to get my T1x barreled action cerakoted.
Could this be done successfully without removing the barrel from the action ?
I have an ARCA from JP rifles that has slots running all the way that mounts to the existing holes on the factory stock.anyone know if there are any arca rails that mount to the factory stock preferably with (but w/o is okay too) a beavertail forend that dont require any additional holes to be drilled?
I know mountain tactical has the 9" one that should work okay, im wondering if any of the longer 10 or 12" Area 419 ones will install without any more holes needing to be drilled.
I use them with the spacer as a 12 rounder. They work fine and are a good "fix" for the random factory mag that will only hold 9 rounds.Has anyone tried the mk machining +4 t1x 'magazine extensions'?
Thoughts?
Interesting, not sure if it's worth spending almost $45 CAD each to get 2 extra rounds...I use them with the spacer as a 12 rounder. They work fine and are a good "fix" for the random factory mag that will only hold 9 rounds.
It helps if you get a dud or a misfeed on the clock.Interesting, not sure if it's worth spending almost $45 CAD each to get 2 extra rounds...
Does it look cool though?
I have one and it’s ok for what it is. Twice during matches I’ve had it come apart and have to go to a backup mag I keep in my pocket. It functions fine and I still use it on stages that would require a mag change but you need to be careful to not put any side pressure on it as the friction fit is just meh.Has anyone tried the mk machining +4 t1x 'magazine extensions'?
Thoughts?
Yeah, not an issue for me as i'm not competing... but good to knowIt helps if you get a dud or a misfeed on the clock.
The mag extensions work great, competing or not. I have never had one come apart, mine are on there tight. I have 2 and I will be getting 2 more.Yeah, not an issue for me as i'm not competing... but good to know