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Tikka T1X

Pulled out the hi-tech bench then cut some bushes to get to 50 and shoot some groups. 10MPH swirling wind just tried to shoot when the conditions felt the same. Both of the Aguila ammo had super sonic rounds and it really killed the Eley primed groups.
8592FD14-9437-4DE2-B545-5B95BC782511.jpeg555471F0-86AD-472D-9038-6ACA07669580.jpeg697B7520-4363-4A7C-B158-A3D23F1D7AC1.jpeg
 
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Hi all,

I'm a pistol guy (USPSA) and completely new to longer-distance shooting. I bought a T1x yesterday (20 inch, .22) but I'm completely lost when it comes to scopes, scope rings, etc. I ordered the 30 MOA Area419 rail, since that seems to be universally liked, and I'm currently looking at a Vortex Diamondback 6-24x50. I'll probably be shooting at 50-100m for now, but I'd like to stretch out farther as I learn more. I've got a good stash of CCI SV and CMP Eley Standard to get started with.

As a photographer, I appreciate good glass and I don't want to buy something just to have to upgrade it in six months, but I don't want to go overboard either. And then when it comes to scope rings, I'm even more confused. I'm not sure what height to get, or how much to spend. Vortex seems to have rings from $30 to $150+. What's the advantage of the pricier rings in this case? For what it's worth, I picked up a Wheeler scope mounting kit with alignment and lapping bars.

Thanks for any advice!
 
slowhands said:
Hi all,

I'm a pistol guy (USPSA) and completely new to longer-distance shooting. I bought a T1x yesterday (20 inch, .22) but I'm completely lost when it comes to scopes, scope rings, etc. I ordered the 30 MOA Area419 rail, since that seems to be universally liked, and I'm currently looking at a Vortex Diamondback 6-24x50. I'll probably be shooting at 50-100m for now, but I'd like to stretch out farther as I learn more. I've got a good stash of CCI SV and CMP Eley Standard to get started with.

As a photographer, I appreciate good glass and I don't want to buy something just to have to upgrade it in six months, but I don't want to go overboard either. And then when it comes to scope rings, I'm even more confused. I'm not sure what height to get, or how much to spend. Vortex seems to have rings from $30 to $150+. What's the advantage of the pricier rings in this case? For what it's worth, I picked up a Wheeler scope mounting kit with alignment and lapping bars.

Thanks for any advice!
Click to expand...

If your budget allows, the Vortex Strike Eagle 5-25x56 FFP MRAD is a great place to start. I have one and quite like it for its features, e.g. locking turrets, zero stop, illumination, and included throw lever. Otherwise, you can jump up to the Viper PST Gen II 5-25x50 FFP MRAD if you have more money and want even better glass.

For rings, I'm using the MDT Premier scope rings as they're good quality and well priced. I'm running them on a 10/22 with the medium rings and the bottom of the scope objective with a cap on it sits about 0.4" lower than the top of the rail. So, you could call Area 419 and find out if their rail is high enough to give you enough clearance. Or, you could go with the high rings which are 0.25" higher.

You might want to consider a cheek rest solution as well given that the stock's comb likely won't be high enough. Matthew's Fabrication makes some nice adjustable kydex options.

Good luck.
 
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buy a bravo for it...immediately. the factory stock is crap.

i have a strike eagle on mine, just kept the battery out of it to avoid the illumination (i WISH that was an option these days..its 99% useless)

I run utg pro rings....the name is laughable, but the rings are SOLID for the money. Remember...its a 22..no need for baller rings.

I did a new bolt know and larger mag release and a trigger spring....really, that's all you have to do and these guns are pretty much good to go
 
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Scope in photo is Diamondback 6x24 50 I got it for $300 at B&H photo you have to call to get that price. DIP 25 MOA rail Rings are med Height .38 inches (Base to Bottom of Tube) I am happy with that scope for the price. Better scope is always nice if you have the budget.
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Well, after reading pages and pages and pages of this thread, I pulled the trigger on a Midas TAC 6-24×50 APRS2 FFP MIL HD scope with Warne medium rings, on top of the 30 MOA Area419 rail I already ordered. I'll stick with the stock chassis for now, at least until I get a chance to shoot the gun. As of now, looks like I'll have all the parts by Saturday. If all goes well, I'll sight it in on Sunday after my USPSA match. Thanks for the advice!
 
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Another 50 yard target. I don’t shoot the better ammo in testing until I get about 500 rounds so still shooting various ammo that I normally just play around with. One shot I was not even settled down with the Gemtech. How the hell I let that happen with a 1.5 pound trigger I don’t know. Would Have been a decent average for that ammo. Overall I think it is a nice gun and will have no problem averaging in the .3s with an ammo it likes. Bolt lift is a little heavier than I like but set it up for a base class rifle for if I ever get to shoot NRL. After hunting season I will compare it accuracy wise to the CZ457 PV.
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slowhands said:
Well, after reading pages and pages and pages of this thread, I pulled the trigger on a Midas TAC 6-24×50 APRS2 FFP MIL HD scope with Warne medium rings, on top of the 30 MOA Area419 rail I already ordered. I'll stick with the stock chassis for now, at least until I get a chance to shoot the gun. As of now, looks like I'll have all the parts by Saturday. If all goes well, I'll sight it in on Sunday after my USPSA match. Thanks for the advice!
Click to expand...
That is where I got to but with Seekins rings and a 20 MOA Contessa rail. There is a lot of good advice / info in this place.
 
Has anyone had any luck removing the "silent stock foam" from a T3x/T1x? I have a Kalix Teknik CR1 Adjustable Cheek Rest to install in my T1x stock and I want to remove that foam without damaging it or the stock if possible.
 
I used an angled pick to remove it. Just push the pick back a bit on the top. Sink the pick into the foam and pull it out. Only leaves a small hole in the foam.
 
Went ahead and shot some groups with SKRM in the 16in Tikka. Had my first FTE that ended up jamming the action pretty good even though it chambering the next round. I’m almost positive that’s where the wild shot came from because it was on that target. Excuse the target. I set up at my house and haven’t built a target frame yet. The gun tends to eject the CCI and Aguila made ammo no problem but SK it drops them on the bench by the gun.
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Last target for this gun till after season. My RimX barreled action will be in Friday so I will start messing with it. Had about 10 FTE today in the two sets of targets I shot. Guess I will have to get around to working on that. It’s nice shooting at the house with little or no wind instead of my hunting club range that’s basically a field. It nice testing the gun instead of my wind reading. Of course it would love an ammo not made any more. Old Wolf MT 52 yards
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I know someone asked about the 17hmr accuracy so here's what my 16" MTR produced today during a quick range session. First group is 10 shots, 50 yards using 17grn CCI V-MAX. Group two is 10 shots, 50 yards, Remington 17grrn accutip-v boat tail. The next two are the same ammo type, same order, 10 shots each at 100yds. All of these were shot off a bench, Harris bipod and rear bag in 3-5mph wind, 90* right to left. BA sitting in a KRG Bravo instead of the plastic abomination of a stock.
 

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@Kisssofdeath my IBI 22LR barrel arrived but the feed lip is of course upside down for my LH action. Wondering if you think it’s worth me either adding one or if you think it might feed okay without the feed lip?
 
t1x_1.jpg
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Tikka T1x MTR .22LR
KRG Bravo chassis in FDE with hook-style cover
DIP 25 MOA Picatinny rail
Anarchy Outdoors bolt handle, knob, and magazine release
Harris bipod
Leupold Mark 4 LR/T 3.5-10x40 in Nightforce Ultralite rings (yes, I borrowed this scope from another rifle of mine... because FDE)

SK Rifle Match ammo at 50 yards (all flyers were probably my fault). I was just getting sighted in on the bottom target, so the groups aren't all on the point of aim.

I have to say I really like the AO magazine release; it's the perfect width and length to fill the KRG Bravo's magazine well, which makes it super easy to operate by feel alone. I also ordered an AO trigger spring, however, after adjusting the factory trigger, I'm so pleased with it that I didn't bother changing the spring.

Eventually I'll get a new scope to devote specifically to this gun. I'm thinking maybe the Swampfox Kentucky Long.
 
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adamjma said:
@Kisssofdeath my IBI 22LR barrel arrived but the feed lip is of course upside down for my LH action. Wondering if you think it’s worth me either adding one or if you think it might feed okay without the feed lip?
Click to expand...
It might feed ok, never tell till you try. Taking the IBI on and off shouldn't be difficult at all so if you need to remove it, it won't be like the factory barrel.
 
Kisssofdeath said:
It might feed ok, never tell till you try. Taking the IBI on and off shouldn't be difficult at all so if you need to remove it, it won't be like the factory barrel.
Click to expand...

Thanks! The factory barrel trio of screws came off with a little bit of coaxing from a quality German Torx screwdriver.

Haven’t yet pulled the barrel.

I fired off 150 rounds of 17 grain Hornady with mixed results. The target below is a series of 5 round groupings from the prone at 50 meters. Weather was cold (just above freezing) and a bit of variable wind, I was also running through the groups at a high tempo so take them with a grain of salt.
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sniperstudent said:
Hey wolf thanks for the 100 yd nudge. I probably wouldn't have got to 100 yd testing so soon otherwise. I had some decent conditions this morning and enough time before heading out to shoot sporting clays. So I moved the bench to 100yds and had a go of it. The rifle match didn't get a fair shake because my son showed up and cancelled on the sporting clays shooting we had planned and then I was forkin pissed , it takes two people to shoot a round of sporting clays. I was still sitting at the bench and had shot the first four shots of the rifle match when he dropped by with the bad news and I just ripped off the fifth shot in disgust. The second five shot group of rifle match ended up only being four shots , I had apparently not pulled my head out of my ars yet and wasn't able to count to five , so the last five shot group of rifle match ended up being six shots. I think I had mostly calmed down for the lapua and standard +. Over all I was completely shocked with what I saw when I got up to the house and put a caliper to things. HOLY HELL!! I have "group therapy session" nearly every morning...22LR + coffee + #1 bird dog = sanity. Good Times Good Times T1X/leupold 4-12 dialed 2 mils from 50 yd zero for all three ammo's
Click to expand...
Sorry for the bit of a necro post...
Sniperstudent - fantastic groups under the conditions at 100 yards. Really appreciate you posting. It appears that the 20" T1x really shoot many types of mid to high end ammo well.

In my limited observation, the better quality ammo seem to double in group size when the distance is doubled unlike cheap ammo that seem to triple the group size when doubling the distance. Interesting to see, in this small sample size, that some 22LR ammo shoot better @ 50 yards and others better @ 100 yards and vice-a-versa.

My take aways:
Higher end 22LR ammo is capable of shooting very good groups.
The best grouping 22LR ammo at 50 yards will not necessarily be the best at 100 yards and vice-a-versa.
SK Std + is a very capable ammo for its price out of the Tikka T1x.

For my own testing, I will test both at 50 and 100 yards. Wind will play a larger role, but for NRL22 purposes, I think that testing is worthwhile especially if the vertical component is primarily assessed for the 100 yard groups.

YMMV, happy shooting.
 
I can't wait to get moved to my new property where I can shoot out to 275 - 300 yards. I have to test this thought that an ammo that is more accurate at a shorter distance is less accurate at a longer distance. This makes absolutely no sense whatsoever to me. It's like, "can/is the bullet actually curving back to the center"?? It's like an auto that has an alignment issue, you let go of the steering wheel and it goes left but at 1/8 of a mile it starts coming back to the right! LOL, just makes not sense and extremely difficult for me to grasp and understand.

If ammo "A" outshoots ammo "B" at 50 yards how on earth is it possible for ammo "B" to be more accurate and outshoot ammo "A" at 100 yards?? Can someone explain how the bullet curves back to center? It has to curve.
 
Well, KOD, for me CCI SV will group pretty nice at 50 but spreads out past 75-80. That's what gets me buy the better match ammo. Maybe that's just me...
 
Random One said:
Well, KOD, for me CCI SV will group pretty nice at 50 but spreads out past 75-80. That's what gets me buy the better match ammo. Maybe that's just me...
Click to expand...
That's not what I am referring to.

I'm talking about and I quote from above, " The best grouping 22LR ammo at 50 yards will not necessarily be the best at 100 yards and vice-a-versa. " I'm also not saying Mr. Wolf didn't experience that nor am I saying he is lying.

I don't want anyone to feel like they are being disrespected in any way. It's just the simply fact that I have a hard time wrapping my head around this. I have a really hard time understanding how the bullet changes direction in flight.
 
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Kisssofdeath said:
That's not what I am referring to.

I'm talking about and I quote from above, " The best grouping 22LR ammo at 50 yards will not necessarily be the best at 100 yards and vice-a-versa. " I'm also not saying Mr. Wolf didn't experience that nor am I saying he is lying.

I don't want anyone to feel like they are being disrespected in any way. It's just the simply fact that I have a hard time wrapping my head around this. I have a really hard time understanding how the bullet changes direction in flight.
Click to expand...
KOD,
I should have been more precise in my explanation. I think that some ammo shoot very well close up like the CCI SV. However, due to either large ES or lesser BC, they tend to fall apart in accuracy and precision after 100 yards. So in my small sample, CCI SV shoots .3 to .4 at 50 but at 100, it spreads out to 1.5+. The SK RM and SK STD+ shoots .4 from my setup but at 100 I group 1 or 1.1

I’ve read about other possibilities related to gyroscopic procession, but most think that bullets stabilize after about the length of your rifle barrel. What’s even more strange is that even in some controlled conditions, such as the indoor facility with the action bolted on to a machine sled, Center-X out of the same rifle shoot better groups at 50m vs 100m and vice-a-versa.
Here is the article by Jim Fischer on his experience at the Lapua Testing Center.

www.snipershide.com

.22lr lot testing at Lapua's indoor 100m test facility. What should you expect in gains?

Follow Sniper's Hide and pick up the latest information on all things precision rifle related. Sniper's Hide Training is for the serious tactical marksman.
www.snipershide.com www.snipershide.com

These rimfires are in the realm of the dark arts. I don’t have the answers, but it sure is fun trying to find out.
YMMV, happy shooting.
 
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Kisssofdeath said:
Doesn't look bad to me, especially under those conditions. What ammo did you say you were using?
Click to expand...

Thanks! I was shooting Hornady 17 HMR 17 gr V-MAX Varmint Express which I recall reading someone else (not sure who or where I read that) had good luck with.

In all honesty it was just to occupy me until my 22LR barrel arrived, which it has. Have all three screws out but that barrel is in there good and I don't want to do something foolish so I think it's off to the smith along with a 223 Rem Tikka action I've been meaning to rebarrel too.
 
If I was to make a guess, I'd suggest when you get those partial 'jams' or fumbles, take that round out and inspect for scaring of the lead bullet. T1X's have been prone to FTF issues and scarring of bullets when feeding.

Just a Random thought....
 
Random One said:
If I was to make a guess, I'd suggest when you get those partial 'jams' or fumbles, take that round out and inspect for scaring of the lead bullet. T1X's have been prone to FTF issues and scarring of bullets when feeding.

Just a Random thought....
Click to expand...

I short stroked it on the cycle where it hung up because I tried to go too fast. At this point I'm starting to think the bolt knob is too large and is difficult for me to manipulate it because of that.
 
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You can get the bolt knobs too big. I did and sent mine back to Anarchy Outdoors in exchange for the 1.5". Even then it's at the limit on my B-14R for creating an issue of getting back on the trigger quickly.
 
While on the topic of optics ... What about the Brownells Match Precision Optics. The kid just won one of the 3-18s and I'm debating selling vs keeping for a future build
 
Well my T1x is back from the gunsmith. He had to heat up the receiver rather significantly to get the barrel out, but the fit is now easy. The IBI barrel does have a little slop to it so I may also shim it with some brass stock.
 
Rattle canned my T1x the other day. Never spray painted a gun before and had to get it out of my system. Not the most professional job but I'm happy with how it turned out.
 

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I recently got a bunch of CCI SV (new lot) that is garbage. Shot some of the old stuff today for old time's sake. I am very happy with how this old lot shoots


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Has anyone experienced that the bolt is sluggish on the T1x? And if so, what is the remedy? Does it get better over time? It feels like it’s grinding against something midway trough cycling. Have less then 200 rounds on it.
 
Ditto, 2ea T1x's and no issues. Checked scope rail mounting screws, maybe one or more is too long and is making contact with the bolt body?
 
What do you guys think of the Nightforce SHV F1 for the t1x in 17hmr? I have a t1x arriving within the next few days and that scope was what I had planned for it.

Use is strictly for punching paper and ringing some steel.
 
The only time mine has had any problem at all was(is) when I neglect the cleaning and oiling of the bolt. I use it as my reminder when my mind wanders elsewhere.
 
Beardsli said:
Holy cow. They did seem like a decent deal.

I guess I need a good alternative then. Athlon?
Click to expand...
I've been happy with the SH4 gen1, but the gen2 has more magnification, a floating dot center and illumination.
The zero stop turrets are easy to set and provides a solid stop and 32 mils of elevation is excellent for long range NRL22.
If the glass and near 100% tracking carries over to the gen2, it would be a great value optic.

arkenopticsusa.com

SH4 6-24X50 GEN2 FFP MIL VPR Illuminated Reticle with Zero Stop - 34mm Tube

7-9 Week Backorder Arken SH4 GENII: 6-24x50 Lifetime Warranty Precision Tracking Guaranteed HD Glass First Focal Plane (FFP) Zero Stop Specification: Magnification: 6-24 x Objective Diameter: 50 mm Eye Relief: 3.5 inches Field of View: 20.88-5.22 ft @100 Yards Tube Size: 34 mm Turret Adjustment:…
arkenopticsusa.com arkenopticsusa.com

The only catch is, can you wait 4-6 weeks for it?

YMMV, happy shooting.
 
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I've never heard of Arken before now, but that optic looks really nice. It has pretty much every feature I'd want.

Do you know where they're made?
 
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