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Tikka T1X

I know this is a long shot but is there a go to Smith for t1x , I am left handed and have pretty much given up hope of finding a left hand t1x in 22LR but I have found a left hand 17 hmr and was wandering if there was someone out there that could rebarrel it to 22lr
The T1x in right hand was first available in .17HMR, now the same thing is happening for the left hand T1x. I'm a lefty also waiting on the .22 T1x here in Australia - the HMR version arrived here in December but I'll have to wait 6-12 months for the .22 and given the pandemic going on the normal delays are a bit longer. Up to you if the time and cost of a smith turning a HMR into a 22 is worth it to you.
 
The up side is i could swap barrels and have a 17hmr, if I went that route I'd still be cheaper then getting a kidd 10/22 which is what my original plan was
 
Took the T1X out yesterday shooting CCI SV, and Aguilia Rifle Match at 50 yards.
CCI went .665, .665, .51, .519, .406, .385, .385.
Aguilia RM, .828, .742, .736, .631, .518, .357, .255.
I am learning to shoot this rifle better.
 
Really nice :D
What stock is that you have on it?

Eh - see you just posted the answer!

I tried swapping the CTR Bottom metal for the Plastic Trigger assembly on the T1X last night.
There is an Allen bolt that attaches the .22LR Magazine well to the action that interferes with the rear face of the CTR magazine well on the T1X.
It's gonna take a little work to mate the CTR Bottom metal with the T1X action.
It may be a simple as swapping the standard Allen bolt for a button head bolt or it may require grinding a slot in the original Allen bolt for clearance. I haven't delved that deep into the conversion yet.
 
how did you pull this off.... I have a T1X that I want to put in aT3X stock so that they are the same in feel... the bottom metal profile looks different? my T3X is in a Supper Varmint stock with adjustable cheek rest ... and I want T1X to live in an identical stock.

I tried swapping the CTR Bottom metal for the Plastic Trigger assembly on the T1X last night.
There is an Allen bolt that attaches the .22LR Magazine well to the action that interferes with the rear face of the CTR magazine well on the T1X.
It's gonna take a little work to mate the CTR Bottom metal with the T1X action.
It may be a simple as swapping the standard Allen bolt for a button head bolt or it may require grinding a slot in the original Allen bolt for clearance. I haven't delved that deep into the conversion yet.

I had to file down the aluminium CTR bottom metal, to creat a channel for the Allen bolt to clear.
 

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Good info for the change out.
Did the Tigger attaching bolt interfere with the bottom metal as well ?
I saw that you removed material there as well.

Correct. I had to file down the lip to clear the trigger attachment bolt as well. Overall it’s fairly easy to do with a file or a dremel, since it’s made out of aluminium.
 
Unfortunately the left hand .22 T1X has been on 'backorder' for a year now. Beretta USA has yet to import any into the USA, though they have been available for purchase in Europe for more than a year. Beretta sort of claims this is because of the virus. Very much doubt we will ever see them in the US.

^This. I talked to Eurooptic, they said they keep getting word they'll come eventually, but no word on specific timetable. I gave up and moved on to a Vudoo. If they ever ship a LH Tikka .22, I'll still get one.
 
Does anyone with their T1x in a Bravo use an Atlas Bipod, Arca Spigot mount, and Area 419 Arcalock clamp? I just ordered the setup and was wondering what others experiences may be.
 
I use a BRAVO stock with an ARCA rail, an ARCA clamp and a PSR ATLAS to do tactical (PRS 22) in New Caledonia. Really solid and consistent.
 
I know this is a long shot but is there a go to Smith for t1x , I am left handed and have pretty much given up hope of finding a left hand t1x in 22LR but I have found a left hand 17 hmr and was wandering if there was someone out there that could rebarrel it to 22lr
Different rim diameter might be an issue. HMR is larger in diameter than 22lr.

I've given up on the t1x, I am going rimx
 
For all the lefties out there!

My earlier posts are attached for posterity:

Here in Canada the 17 HMR LH landed a couple of months back. My suggestion, as I have done, is to grab one of those and re-barrel with a .22 LR barrel IF you had any intention of doing that at some point anyhow. Otherwise the wait will be until next summer we have been told and we surprisingly seem to get Tikka a little before you folks in the USA.

You'll need the .22 LR magazines and that's it.

I went with International Barrels since they are Canadian and I've shot with the owner a number of times and I'm happy to support his business.

It will line up with the extractor on the left but my IBI barrel did have a feed ramp machined in for a right handed action. So far it feeds well enough from a mag at home but I haven't taken it to the range yet to see.

The IBI I received was in fact set up for a right handed action. I had emailed them and they said it would work left so I was a bit disappointed with it when I received it, but I want to see how it performs before I get bent out of shape. If it doesn't work I have complete faith they will make it right (well, left...).

So far, seems to feed and extract snap caps just fine, so I am hopeful there won't be any mangling of the lead bullet when I run the action. I'm just leery of doing so at home and have been avoiding some chilly weather at the range lately. This week is supposed to warm up so I expect to find out Friday if you can wait that long to find out.

Earlier in the thread @Kisssofdeath reported that the 17 HMR bolt worked fine with the 22LR but the opposite was not so much the case. There are differences between the extractors, please see my earlier post on that with the Tikka product information. I took it on faith that the 17 HMR bolt would work, and thus far with the snap caps it is performing well. I plan to head to the range tomorrow to test it out so stay tuned.

As for Tikka putting out the 17 HMR first, I also scratch my head at that. Seems awfully boneheaded to me.

@keenedge @Kisssofdeath

Well, I finally got to the range today to try my new IBI 22LR barrel with a stack of SK ammo. And then I had three fails to extract in a row and that's the end of that for the time being.

Sigh.

I was able to load and extract 22LR ammo just fine without firing it, but once fired the ammo would not extract AT ALL. Had to push it out with a rod, so after three in a row I was done for the day as I didn't want to mess around with things on the line.

I had measured the rim thickness of the SK ammo and the depth of the recess in the bolt and found them to be pretty much the same so I mounted the barrel resting against the bolt face. Perhaps this was too short a headspace? I will probably get a headspace gauge and try that, but that is a several week endeavour since it will be coming up from the US.

Attached are some images for you to ponder:

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The three rounds I fired off. So, I think I figured out the issue - the IBI barrel is upside down, so the feed ramp is on the top, which is where the firing pin is as well. I suspect, based on the saddle shape to the rim of the cartridge that the lack of support to the rim where the firing pin hits is allowing the case to deform such that the extraction is compromised.

This would explain why @Kisssofdeath had no problems with the combination and I did. I'm going to see if IBI can swap me a barrel with the correct feed ramp.

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Really hard to make out but the ammo itself that was loaded and extracted is slightly gouged but not horribly so. A feed ramp in the right spot would help with this.

I'm also going to try to lay hands on a 22LR extractor to see if that helps.

I need a beer.

I was hoping to get things working 100% before posting, but since there has been a bit of talk lately I thought I would update on my progress with an IBI left handed barrel. Originally they sent me a righty and that was a disaster as the feed ramp ended up at 12-o'clock which meant the firing pin bent the rim of the case (unsupported due to the ramp) and extraction was a no go.

After several weeks my lefty barrel arrived over the Christmas break. Weather has been too cold for me to have much chance to shoot, but I finally got out last week and the lefty fed just fine. Extraction seemed to work pretty well also, but ejection was particularly lousy with CCI SV and for the most part okay with SK. I have done the ejector mod described here.

Will have to see how that works, but for the moment it APPEARS that the lefty 17 HMR bolt will work with a 22 LR barrel, which is what @Kissofdeath experienced.

As for IBI, it may be that my lefty was a one off as I do not see them up for sale.

More to follow.
 
Anyone go a clue where to buy one of these in .22lr?

Not op on the question, but I am also shopping for one for my son. Either length, but 16.5 preferable for 22lr. Thanks
Idk about now but I bought mine from cabelas... I’ve also seen them at Sportsmans warehouse... depends on location I suppose. But if any of the box stores have it I would think they could ship it to a sister store for pick up.
 
Not sure, I’m normal handed. They do have a dedicated LH section there, worth calling and asking.
 
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Just got my action/barrel back yesterday from being shortened to 16.5". I took it out to the range today, got her sighted and shot a few targets. Lapua Center X beat out the Eley Match and RWS R50 I was shooting today. Overall I was really happy with how it shot. This was at 50yds, my first time shooting the USBR target, and was with a bipod only, so be gentle.

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I know this is a long shot but is there a go to Smith for t1x , I am left handed and have pretty much given up hope of finding a left hand t1x in 22LR but I have found a left hand 17 hmr and was wandering if there was someone out there that could rebarrel it to 22lr

Chase, my smith did a great job with my T1X. I bought a Feddersen blank and had him chamber and custom fit the barrel before prefit barrels were available. It shoots just as good as my Vudoo. His name is Dave Stancil , Badgersmith Gunworks. He is a good friend of mine. He has rebarreled a few other members rifles here as well with similar results from my understanding.

I’m actually considering doing the same thing you are. My youngest son is a lefty and we have been waiting on the lefty tikka for him as well.
 
Finally got my T1X 20" out with some CCI SV. This was shot at 50yards with 10rd groups, and I'm hoping to get out to 100yds next week to see how it does with nicer ammunition.

Bottom right target is Federal GMM.

Out of what I shot (Wolf, Aguila Match, Federal GMM, CCI SV, CCI Quiets, Eley Target) it seemed to like Eley Target the best and had a similar zero to the CCI SV.
 

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Anyone use a tuner on a t1x factory barrel?

Here’s mine using a Harrell AR15 Tuner. I initially used it primarily as a thread protector. I need more time to tweak it, but pretty satis so far. Definitely one of the least expensive options for tuners 😁
 

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Here’s mine using a Harrell AR15 Tuner. I initially used it primarily as a thread protector. I need more time to tweak it, but pretty satis so far. Definitely one of the least expensive options for tuners 😁
Impressive shooting! Possibly the best 6x5 I've seen with CCI SV. Thanks for sharing.
 
Thanks 👍🏼

Although somewhat controversial, I’ve been weighing my ammo. Seems to help sort out fliers. Tuner is set for only 1 weight, will need to find settings for the other weights 😁
 
Here’s mine using a Harrell AR15 Tuner. I initially used it primarily as a thread protector. I need more time to tweak it, but pretty satis so far. Definitely one of the least expensive options for tuners 😁

i have a regular harrell's tuner on my 10/22 build...that i've swapped to my t1x. it hasn't really shown any difference on my .92 fedderson barrel, but on the tikka..it most definitely changed things

im going to get a 24" barrel on my 10/22 and move the tuner back to it...so thinking about getting one of these 1/2x28 tuners for the tikka.
 
i have a regular harrell's tuner on my 10/22 build...that i've swapped to my t1x. it hasn't really shown any difference on my .92 fedderson barrel, but on the tikka..it most definitely changed things

im going to get a 24" barrel on my 10/22 and move the tuner back to it...so thinking about getting one of these 1/2x28 tuners for the tikka.

The Tikka’s 0.720” barrel seems to work better with a tuner 👍🏼
Tuners work better with longer smaller profile barrels. They will still work with a short thick barrel like an MTU but there will be less nodes and lesser effect because of the harmonic differences.

I intend to play with a tuner on my T1x. So far the tikka has performed very well in stock form with factory 20” barrel and stock. So much so that I use use it as a loaner at matches. That has caused at least one person to go and buy a T1x for their own use.
 
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Has anyone mounted an arca rail on the T1X factory stock?

I borrowed the KRG Rail off of my Bravo for my "T1X in a T3X CTR Stock" gun
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I had to mill a notch in the CTR bottom metal to clear the Allen Bolt that attaches the T1X Magazine Well to the action
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The Rail as Installed with the Tikka Varmint Style Forend accessory
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Interior of the barrel channel - I used Tee Nuts with epoxy and opened up the end of the stock to ensure that there would be no contact between the stock and and the barrel even if the bipod was loaded heavily.
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Area 419 ARCA Clamp and Atlas Bipod
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A 10" Area 419 ARCA Rail and Rear Barricade Stop is probably in the near future for this rife and one for the Bravo as well.
A set of Vortex Defender Scope Caps and a Magnification lever are on the Buy List this week.
 
I borrowed the KRG Rail off of my Bravo for my "T1X in a T3X CTR Stock" gun
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I had to mill a notch in the CTR bottom metal to clear the Allen Bolt that attaches the T1X Magazine Well to the action
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The Rail as Installed with the Tikka Varmint Style Forend accessory
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Interior of the barrel channel - I used Tee Nuts with epoxy and opened up the end of the stock to ensure that there would be no contact between the stock and and the barrel even if the bipod was loaded heavily.
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Area 419 ARCA Clamp and Atlas Bipod
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A 10" Area 419 ARCA Rail and Rear Barricade Stop is probably in the near future for this rife and one for the Bravo as well.
A set of Vortex Defender Scope Caps and a Magnification lever are on the Buy List this week.
Why not @Tyler Kemp scope caps and levers?
 
Anyone using a Jard Trigger? I see they make one for the T1x now at 9-11oz. I have a T3 Timney trigger in mine now, it is really nice, but I would like to go lighter than I can adjust it.
 
Any idea when the Vortex Strike Eagle 5-25×56 Scope Cap Set will be available again?
We have been so slammed I just have them all listed as on backorder. You can order and they'll ship promptly, but didn't want someone to be able to order next day caps for an obscure size. Hope that makes sense!
 
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Could someone please tell me the length of the factory Tikka T1x bolt handle .
I have a rifle on order and I'm wondering if I need an aftermarket handle.
 
Just finished getting my T1X all setup last night. Quick question for your T1X owners. Did you notice an increase in accuracy over a certain round count? Essentially just curious how many rounds I should plan to put through the rifle before moving onto match ammo. I have some Federal Automatch I planned on using for break in then when it made sense switching to SK Rifle Match.

Thanks.
For a while I was getting worried because at 50 yds I could stack them up but at 100 yds shots were all over the place. I was missing steel targets in competition and could see them flying left and right of the target. After putting about 500 rounds through my Tikka it was like someone flipped a switch. It became a tack driver. Same ammo (Wolf Match Target) so no change there and I was cleaning stages. I've got several other ammo brands to test and see which she likes best but for now I am thrilled with how tight the rifle started shooting. Hope this helps.
 
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For a while I was getting worried because at 50 yds I could stack them up but at 100 yds shots were all over the place. I was missing steel targets in competition and could see them flying left and right of the target. After putting about 500 rounds through my Tikka it was like someone flipped a switch. It became a tack driver. Same ammo (Wolf Match Target) so no change there and I was cleaning stages. I've got several other ammo brands to test and see which she likes best but for now I am thrilled with how tight the rifle started shooting. Hope this helps.

Out of curiosity, what is your cleaning regime for her ?

I'm getting close to 1000 rounds fired and haven't seen any appreciable change so far from the out of the box condition. Groups still open up noticeably at a 100m (1.2 - 1.3 MOA at best), while I'm able to consistently get tight groups at 50m (0.8 MOA or better) with the same ammo (SK magazine for the time being). I still suspect that I need to step up in ammo quality because I opened a box of Eley Sport yesterday just before dark and got very promising results with a 0.6 MOA (8 shots discounting a flyer) group at 100m. Waiting for the next trip to the range to do more testing with this stuff.

As far as cleaning goes, I'm just doing a single swipe with a bore snake after each session to remove the bulk of the junk in the barrel. Not sure if I should change something there or not.
 
For a while I was getting worried because at 50 yds I could stack them up but at 100 yds shots were all over the place. I was missing steel targets in competition and could see them flying left and right of the target. After putting about 500 rounds through my Tikka it was like someone flipped a switch. It became a tack driver. Same ammo (Wolf Match Target) so no change there and I was cleaning stages. I've got several other ammo brands to test and see which she likes best but for now I am thrilled with how tight the rifle started shooting. Hope this helps.
I think the group opening up at 100 is quite common. My gun shoots 0.3 inch at 50 but can hardly go under a inch at 100...
 
I think the group opening up at 100 is quite common. My gun shoots 0.3 inch at 50 but can hardly go under a inch at 100...
Same. I don’t have a T1X yet, but have a couple CZ’s that are the same.