Just google tikka t1x triggers, hit videos and bam.
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Just google tikka t1x triggers, hit videos and bam.
I went back out to the range this morning and shot some more groups. I'm sad to report that, while many SK varieties shoot good to excellent groups, I cannot use anything SK as match ammo. With very few exceptions, in every mag of SK the fifth round will misfeed. It appears that the round gets pushed downward while it's moving forward and the rim isn't popping up and free of the feed lips. The rim is then stuck under the forward part of the feed lips and as it is pushed forward it just continues to become more vertical until it is finally standing straight up at the front of the magazine. This has only happened with SK and it happens consistently with every variety I've tried. It's a bummer because SK shoots pretty well out of this rifle. I did find that if I reached into the receiver and pushed the front of the fifth round back down into the mag a little before bringing the bolt forward that it will feed fine, but I can't do that during a match so SK is off the list.
I also found that the new Eley Semi-auto Benchrest Precision ammo shoots very good out of my rifle and gave an average of 1097 FPS with an ES of 21 and a SD of 5 for the 25 rounds I put over the chrony. As long as I could hold my concentration it would put shots touching at 50 yards. I've found my new match ammo, I think.
I also found that the new Eley Semi-auto Benchrest Precision ammo shoots very good out of my rifle and gave an average of 1097 FPS with an ES of 21 and a SD of 5 for the 25 rounds I put over the chrony. As long as I could hold my concentration it would put shots touching at 50 yards. I've found my new match ammo, I think.
I've spent many, many hours on the Tikka and finally got it to work just right.
1. Is this with every magazine, have you tried this with a few different magazines?
2. When you feed the SK round slowly, does it properly click into the bolt? -
The machining on the Tikkas have some variances, but all of them can be tweaked.
SK ammo has a thicker rim than Eley ammo. My extractor claw had a burr on it, and that tiny burr prevented SK ammo from properly flipping into the extractor claw, thus to round was going into the chamber at a much steeper angle. I had to get a jeweler's file and file / polish out that burr. Beretta can also just send you a new one.
The magazine well, contains the ejector wire. That ejector wire is a shitty design. It can be bent in all sorts of ways, and tightened to be more or less springy. At the same time that wire, the bend, and the angle also have a major effect in feeding.
Though if you have a lot of SK Semi-Auto, running with an SD of 5... go buy as many cases you can afford of that and just shoot that
Thanks for the suggestions @littlepod. SK does the same thing with all 3 magazines I have. I looked at the extractor and can't see any burrs or anything out of the ordinary. It's weird because its it ever the fifth round. Lapua has the same rim thickness and it runs perfect. I'll have to check diameters and see if there's any variance there. Running the bolt slow does the the same thing also. I'll keep poking around and see if I can figure out how to get it to feed reliably. Unsolved mysteries like that tend to bug me until figure it out.
Right after I shot those groups with the Eley Semi-auto I went looking for more using my phone right there on the range. I had bought that first box from MidwayUSA. I found Killough Shooting Sports had all the lots surrounding the one I had but not the exact one I had. I'm gambling that MidwayUSA just bought that whole lot, and went ahead and ordered 1500 more rounds from them.
BTW, Killough lists all the lots they have so you could theoretically order several lots to try and them bulk buy the one that works best. I'll likely buy my next batch of ammo from them.
Right after I shot those groups with the Eley Semi-auto I went looking for more using my phone right there on the range. I had bought that first box from MidwayUSA. I found Killough Shooting Sports had all the lots surrounding the one I had but not the exact one I had. I'm gambling that MidwayUSA just bought that whole lot, and went ahead and ordered 1500 more rounds from them.
BTW, Killough lists all the lots they have so you could theoretically order several lots to try and them bulk buy the one that works best. I'll likely buy my next batch of ammo from them.
My infeed fails have been eliminated by using jeweler's file and 600grit wet/dry to break and smooth the edges of the barrel breach. What I saw happening was that sharp edge would actually scrape the soft lead nose of the round as it was pushed up into the breach.
I had given up on SK ammo because it seemed to be the worst for this type of FTF. I'm now back to using SK Rifle Match and Long Range ammo.
I've never had any ejection problems with mine - knock-on-wood.
PS: I also loosened the magazine well screw and positioned as far back as I could.
I had given up on SK ammo because it seemed to be the worst for this type of FTF. I'm now back to using SK Rifle Match and Long Range ammo.
I've never had any ejection problems with mine - knock-on-wood.
PS: I also loosened the magazine well screw and positioned as far back as I could.
Saturday NRL22 @ Colorado Rod and Gun?
But when are you getting a Vudoo?
I haven't gone down that rabbit hole yet. I've ordered an Oryx Chassis for the Tikka and now waiting...waiting...waiting...
My next shoot will prolly be at Boulder.
Is that a Walther barrel?
GRS stock?
Was that for a T3?
Was that for a T3?
The GRS T3 stocks fit and function perfect for the T1x. I have one for mine and love it.
Hi, not LW prefit. This is a copper firearms match grade/hand lapped blank and my own contour.gunsmith do the rest.Thank you!
not for T3 for t3x and t1x .86alaskan is right. this is really a mimic on a big power gun good trainer bec. it feels like the big power tikka t3x.Thank you!
What kind of accuracy are you getting?
So far I can't tell you much as I don't shoot much always busy ,this Barrel need to be break in first atleast put some 200 rounds on it.So far the barrel has only less than 30 shots on it.For me it shot pretty darn good an am only an average guy.I only use cci standard for break in then I started testing a lot of different ammo after the breakin period.
-I always get a feeling like every time I used this gun... that this barrel make me a good shooter in the future somehow/somewhat I can hit what am aiming at yah know that kind of feelings.
-I always get a feeling like every time I used this gun... that this barrel make me a good shooter in the future somehow/somewhat I can hit what am aiming at yah know that kind of feelings.
Is anyone else having issues with bolt drag? The bolt pull in my T1x is quite gritty. This was discussed in this thread a year ago. I had Beretta fix a broken firing pin and they made sure the cross pin wasn't proud, but that hasn't really helped the feel.
Lots for dry fire, lots of lube, no lube, a little lube, I am running our of ideas. I really love the gun except this part...
Suggestions?
Lots for dry fire, lots of lube, no lube, a little lube, I am running our of ideas. I really love the gun except this part...
Suggestions?
Can you feel any "sandpaper" like areas anywhere on the bolt or inside the receiver? I have had a total of 4 T1x's and they were all smooth as silk. I'm thinking you should be able to identify the problem area and smooth it out.
Bolt drag, both directions? Or just feeding a round?
I mean the bolt isn't smooth like my T3X, but it also hasn't had any functionality issues during a match and I never notice any hiccups.
If you remove the mag well which contains the ejector wire, does bolt movement feel better?
Mag well out and it is an entirely different bolt. Who woulda thunk..? Other than @littlepod. Thank you
So now I need to figure out how to fix that without disrupting my perfectly reliable feeding (even SK's sorry).
Yeh it's a delicate ballance... too springy, too pointy = hard time feeding, but great ejection. No springyness = no ejection.
I was trying to engineer a ejector wire design with @zenbike to make something that would have good ejection and good feeding.
The top one is the original. The bottom one is an exaggeration, but what I wanted to do was when the bolt engages to just push the ejector wire out of the way, and it will bring back when the bolt is pulled back. This allowed for pretty straight feeding right into the chamber, and the ejector to only hit the spent brass when the bolt is fully pulled back.
I sold my tikka to zenbike so he's going to be doing some fun engineering efforts
Quick question for Tikka owners. Did you get a separate warranty card somewhere in the box? I have the manual, but no warranty card that I can find. Also new here, here is a picture of my new rifle for my son and I.
Cheap bipod off Amazon and a Nikon Buckmaster II 4-12X scope.
Cheap bipod off Amazon and a Nikon Buckmaster II 4-12X scope.
Hello and thanks for all the great info here. I'm new to the forum and just finished all 71 pages of this thread.
I want my t1x in chassis but to stay on budget I would prefer to put my T3x CTR .260 in one first, then move the chassis to the T1x later when I upgrade the CTR. I'm wondering if it would be easier to fit the CTR to a T1x chassis first or a T1x to a CTR chassis later. Any advice would be much appreciated. I like the Bravo, Oryx,MDT LSS-XL, and XLR Element to name some.
I want my t1x in chassis but to stay on budget I would prefer to put my T3x CTR .260 in one first, then move the chassis to the T1x later when I upgrade the CTR. I'm wondering if it would be easier to fit the CTR to a T1x chassis first or a T1x to a CTR chassis later. Any advice would be much appreciated. I like the Bravo, Oryx,MDT LSS-XL, and XLR Element to name some.
I put mine in a MDT LSS XL. I absolutely love it. I had to do some slight milling for it to fit because of the magwell bolt. Also a little milling inside the chassis magwell for the mags to work. Other than that not a big deal. I shoot my rimfire way more than my centerfire, so it was the first to go in a chassis.
That's definitely the chassis I plan for my CTR eventually.
Doing my research. I like that the Bravo and Oryx include most everything needed - with no need to buy a buttstock. I'm leaning toward one of those two to begin with on the CTR, to move to the T1x when I can afford the LSS-XL gen 2 for the CTR. I'm wondering if MDT has sales often?
Thank you very much for the feedback!
Doing my research. I like that the Bravo and Oryx include most everything needed - with no need to buy a buttstock. I'm leaning toward one of those two to begin with on the CTR, to move to the T1x when I can afford the LSS-XL gen 2 for the CTR. I'm wondering if MDT has sales often?
Thank you very much for the feedback!
They have an awesome black Friday sale. Also I would assume they are still doing it, but last year for being a nrl22 member I got 30% off a one time purchase from MDT. I bought the ACC my Tikka 6.5 varmint is in. Saved a ton of money. Keep an eye out in the for sale section here too, I got my LSSXL here at a great price.
Go thru the forum sections. It's the accessories PX
I never heard of them doing NRL22 discounts. I know they give prize awards out, but didn't know there was a NRL22 discount code. They only have 1 official sale a year, which is the Black Friday sale.
I know their MDT ACC chassis for the Tikka T3 SA fits both the T1X and the T3X without any modifications. It looks like for their Oryx Chassis that they have specific options for T3 SA and T1X, so I am guessing it's not compatible.
@MDT_OFFICIAL is this true for the Oryx chassis that T3 SA and T1X are not interchangeable? Can you not buy the T3 SA and get it to fit the T1X?
I know their MDT ACC chassis for the Tikka T3 SA fits both the T1X and the T3X without any modifications. It looks like for their Oryx Chassis that they have specific options for T3 SA and T1X, so I am guessing it's not compatible.
@MDT_OFFICIAL is this true for the Oryx chassis that T3 SA and T1X are not interchangeable? Can you not buy the T3 SA and get it to fit the T1X?
Ahh, just my ole Tikka T1x set up for night shooting. Actually I'm going to have to find a new night stalker since this one now has the IBI unthreaded barrel. You can't be a night stalker and not shoot suppressed.
I don't even remember. Regardless all you have to do is go online and register for the warranty. That's what I do/did.
MDT_OFFICIAL
Official Account of Modular Driven Technologies
Supporter
Commercial Supporter
Full Member
Minuteman
Yes, on the Oryx they are two separate inlets.
I've spent many, many hours on the Tikka and finally got it to work just right.
1. Is this with every magazine, have you tried this with a few different magazines?
2. When you feed the SK round slowly, does it properly click into the bolt? -
The machining on the Tikkas have some variances, but all of them can be tweaked.
SK ammo has a thicker rim than Eley ammo. My extractor claw had a burr on it, and that tiny burr prevented SK ammo from properly flipping into the extractor claw, thus to round was going into the chamber at a much steeper angle. I had to get a jeweler's file and file / polish out that burr. Beretta can also just send you a new one.
The magazine well, contains the ejector wire. That ejector wire is a shitty design. It can be bent in all sorts of ways, and tightened to be more or less springy. At the same time that wire, the bend, and the angle also have a major effect in feeding.
Though if you have a lot of SK Semi-Auto, running with an SD of 5... go buy as many cases you can afford of that and just shoot that
This is great info, I have lots of feed issues with sk standard plus. About every other mag I get a straight up feed bullet and I have to drop the mag to fix it.
In matches I have to drop the mag and put a new one in.
I'll try and figure out how to strip the bolt and see if there is a burr on the extractor
Sterk bent bolt handles for the T1X are back in stock at Eurooptic; I just purchased my first!
Hey T1X fans, I have a T1X only shot 2 magazines through it. I have the original stock and the KRG Bravo stock. Any idea what it i could get for it?
No telling what some people might pay, but I wouldn't be too interested in used that was priced much more than 70% of what I could get it for new. Different criteria would apply to out-of-production firearms and those that are highly collectible.
Wow,, 20 rounds and you don't like it?
i read such great things and I like playing around with things but I have 2 Vudoo's and 2 CZ457's all done up and a Stiller 2500x AND THIS JUST DOESNT FIT IN
So we shot 1 22prs match last season and used CCI SV w somewhat decent results. We are doing a lot more of these matches this year and I wanted to try out some Eley Contact after reading about others having great luck with it. Well, ordered some from LAX and it showed up today ... Sort of ... They sent Edge instead.
Anyone try Edge vs Contact or could provide some other feedback on this ammo? Should I just hold onto it and use it or have them send the Contact?
Anyone try Edge vs Contact or could provide some other feedback on this ammo? Should I just hold onto it and use it or have them send the Contact?
I really like edge out of my ruger precision. I realized reading this that I haven't actually put any through my tikka. Hmmmm. I'll try to get some done to correct that oversight.
Eley Edge is good ammo to try. If they gave you that instead of Contact I'd be really happy.
@nakoa01 it can be done.
I finally got around to modifying my T3 KRG Bravo to suit the T1x.
Pictures should explain it, but it involved a short head cap screw for the magazine well, drilling/counterboring 2x holes in the top of the Chassis to suit M3 screws (will probably change them to hex drive pan head - zinc philips were all I had on hand).
Drill and Tap M3 into the trigger guard due to the existing screw no longer being used.
Remove/Drill/Mill/File material to allow for Plastic Tab on Magazine and Cap screw.
I've checked it all assembled and can still use the T1x magazine with the AICS mag lever in place. The bottom rear of the magazine presses against it, but it means I can swap a T3/T3x and T1x in the one stock. I did make the Thru-holes a little bigger so the 2x M3 screws can slide a little back and forth to get the right tension when using AICS magazines still (original screw did the same).
Next up will be a Sterk handle and shroud
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I ordered a spring for my Tikka T1X about a month ago. You don’t get a tracking number, but I believe when I checked the eBay status it just says shipped. This was my second order from them and the spring typically arrives in a week or so.
No idea. Call KRG, maybe they can help.
Putting the T1x in a W3 is exactly like putting a T1x in the Bravo not already modified for the T1x. The area where the mag well screw hangs down needs to be machined out. It’s pretty basic work that anyone should be able to do with a dremmel. If you search back through the thread you will see where other members show what has to be done.
