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Tikka T3 Thread

Well, I sold my RRA 308 and glock pistol to pay off some bills and left enough for a lite weight deer hunting / tactical / target rifle in a tikka tx3 ctr 20" 308 for $799 bucks. I lost about 60% of the strength in my right arm and I needed something that I could shoulder easy and I think this rifle fits the bill. Added a gen2 little bastard brake to reduce the recoil. Added a SPF 4-16x44 viper more for hunting but can still dial in for target shooting. Vortex low precision rings. And got the stock pad off of amazon for $35 shipped which is identical to the triad tactical pack which I'm impressed and gives a PERFECT cheek weld. Now I just need to get some rounds down range :)

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Forgetful Coyote said:
Man the CTR seems light for a .308. Hows recoil? And would I do ok in getting one a the SWFA 10x fixed scopes? What would yall recommend for a lower priced can?
Click to expand...

I had a T3 in 308. With the brake and/or suppressor it was manageable but without either it had some snap to it (<6lbs before optic). The 24" CTR in 6.5CM is a dream to shoot but I can't speak for the 308. The scope should be great as well as the Primary Arms 4-14x44 ffp mildot as another option. I've got an Omega direct threaded to mine, not cheap but not too $$$.

Getting sub-MOA 5 shot groups with it and 2750ft/s on 140 Nosler RDF's in Lapua brass w/ 41.7gr of RL-16 & CCI 450's. First time reliably tagging the 1000 yd steel targets (8.1 mils) and slapped some small ones at 800yds.
 
Without going back through the whole thread to search for someone posting about this, can anyone tell me if their CTR's barrel isn't fully free-floated?
My CTR's stock hugs the barrel for about 2.5" moving away from the action. It's only after it contours down to it's med profile that the barrel doesn't touch the stock.
I'm only asking because on my first range trip out with my CTR I shot two 1/2" groups and two 3/4" groups at 100yds. I was very happy. Then on my second trip out, my groups were averaging 1 1/2" at 100yds with the same ammo, same lot. Scope and mount are tight. Could this change be due to the rest having changed, combined with a "non-free-floated" barrel?
 
Bakwa,

What do you mean by the rest having changed, combined with the barrel not free floating? Did you change how you were shooting positionally?

 
Bakwa said:
Without going back through the whole thread to search for someone posting about this, can anyone tell me if their CTR's barrel isn't fully free-floated?
My CTR's stock hugs the barrel for about 2.5" moving away from the action. It's only after it contours down to it's med profile that the barrel doesn't touch the stock.
I'm only asking because on my first range trip out with my CTR I shot two 1/2" groups and two 3/4" groups at 100yds. I was very happy. Then on my second trip out, my groups were averaging 1 1/2" at 100yds with the same ammo, same lot. Scope and mount are tight. Could this change be due to the rest having changed, combined with a "non-free-floated" barrel?
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My T3x 308 CTR was like this as well, although I have had no occurrences of it affecting the accuracy. However, I did take the action out and sand down the barrel channel on the stock so that it is now fully free floating all the way back to the action. Again, no affect on accuracy, but I figured it couldnt hurt. Future plans include a chassis anyway so i figured "why not."
 
Tunnuh said:
Bakwa,

What do you mean by the rest having changed, combined with the barrel not free floating? Did you change how you were shooting positionally?
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Both times were off of rag fill bags. However, just by the nature of the bag, each time you pick the bag up and toss it back down you are changing the places that may apply pressure in odd ways to your system. Or maybe I'm just overthinking the effect of inconsistent rest types on barrel harmonics.
 
If using different rests under the fore end of the stock, and not as a bag rider I suppose it's possible. What ammo are you using out of curiosity?
 
Bakwa said:
Without going back through the whole thread to search for someone posting about this, can anyone tell me if their CTR's barrel isn't fully free-floated?
My CTR's stock hugs the barrel for about 2.5" moving away from the action. It's only after it contours down to it's med profile that the barrel doesn't touch the stock.
I'm only asking because on my first range trip out with my CTR I shot two 1/2" groups and two 3/4" groups at 100yds. I was very happy. Then on my second trip out, my groups were averaging 1 1/2" at 100yds with the same ammo, same lot. Scope and mount are tight. Could this change be due to the rest having changed, combined with a "non-free-floated" barrel?
Click to expand...

I recently had a similar experience with my CTR 6.5 Creedmoor. The first time out shooting 5 shot groups, it was creating one ragged hole, I was shooting off of a cement bench using a bipod and a rear bag. I couldn't have been happier! I went out a week later and shot both prone and from a not so stable wooden bench and couldn't group anything below 1-1.25 MOA. I honestly believe it was shooter error that day as I was really having trouble getting the rifle to stabilize without it moving a lot horizontally through the scope if that makes sense. I didn't get to try the same concrete bench I had used during the first outing, and I was using the same lot of ammo as before. Again, I'm thinking shooter error, some days I'm just not on as much as others.
 
Tikka's factory stocks have a pilar around 2.5 inches in front of the action, if you want to have a free floating barrel you need to sand that portion of the barrel channel.
 
Need some opinions:
I want a long range rifle to use when we head out to the farm and really stretch it out. I currently have a shorty 308 on a custom 700 action that I could get set-up w/ a rem-age system, but I dont really want to mess w/ that rifle as it shoots 1/4 MOA when I do my part. I also have a tikka set up as a hunting 260. This seems like a better candidate for a pre-fit/switch barrel set-up.

Would you do a 260, a 6.5 CM, or a 6 CM? As far as reloading, I would reload, but the only cartridge specific components I current have is 260 lapua brass, so thats not really enough to sway a decision (and lets be honest, sometimes its nice to grab a box or 2 of match ammo and not worry about planning a reloading session so factory choices would be good). As far as distances, my 308 is my 500 and in gun, so this would be anything further.
 
What type of 260 do you have? Lite? I have the 20" CTR 260 and was banging away at 1000Y yesterday with some Prime 130's, it was a beautiful thing. I also have a custom Remington 260 done by LRI that is a laser, but honestly the CTR gets more play. Lite, easy and can do strings of shots with no issue.
 
roggom said:
What type of 260 do you have? Lite? I have the 20" CTR 260 and was banging away at 1000Y yesterday with some Prime 130's, it was a beautiful thing. I also have a custom Remington 260 done by LRI that is a laser, but honestly the CTR gets more play. Lite, easy and can do strings of shots with no issue.
Click to expand...

It's a Hunter, so a 22" sporter profile. Regardless of which caliber I go with, it will be a CTR profile at the lightest and will be 24" or 26".
 
As far as cartridge choice goes, with respect to availability of factory ammo, both FGMM and Hornady .260 match is now readily available, along with the Prime, so the factory ammo issue is less of a consideration now.

If I were in your situation, I'd be likely to go .260 again. That is unless you are tempted to wade into the 6 mm pond. I know that it is nice to have the option to buy ammo off of the shelf and I shoot .260 myself, but long range is where hand loading really starts to make a difference when you want to eke out that extra speed or tighten your poi.

Btw, I usually have a case or so of factory ammo available for mine. I don't always have time to load up 200 rounds before heading out to practice. It's nice to have options.
 
lash said:
As far as cartridge choice goes, with respect to availability of factory ammo, both FGMM and Hornady .260 match is now readily available, along with the Prime, so the factory ammo issue is less of a consideration now.

If I were in your situation, I'd be likely to go .260 again. That is unless you are tempted to wade into the 6 mm pond. I know that it is nice to have the option to buy ammo off of the shelf and I shoot .260 myself, but long range is where hand loading really starts to make a difference when you want to eke out that extra speed or tighten your poi.

Btw, I usually have a case or so of factory ammo available for mine. I don't always have time to load up 200 rounds before heading out to practice. It's nice to have options.
Click to expand...

I have always preferred 260 to 6.5cm in a bolt action, so I guess it's down to 260 vs 6cm (and bbl life has me leaning 260).
 
Has anyone dropped a T3X into the B&C stock? Was there any smithing involved? Someone told me that the trigger guard need work to fit. I contacted B&C and they said they didn't know and would look into it but I have not heard back. I would just like a better stock than the factory one without getting into the 400+ price range. This is for my treestand rifle.
 
I have dropped a T3x CTR into a medalist. Just some sandpaper / socket inletting needed in the barrel channel and you will need a magazine catch to use standard 3 round magazines. If you have the standard T3x lite then it's a direct fit.

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See the stainless tab spring on the trigger bolt. CTR does not have one, you will need one or the mags will droop.

a1d8728c309e0bb2e1dee4244b0ec56e.jpg




If you want to use CTR mags and bottom metal , you will need a smith to inlet.



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If you can wait a bit longer Grayboe should have Tikka T3 stocks within the next couple months. After listening to the Precision Rifle Media Podcast I emailed Grayboe and below is the response I got:

"Thanks for your email. We are currently working on a Tikka inlet. Hoping to have something in a couple months. Once we do, we will let everyone know via social media and website. Keep an eye on these outlets for more information."
 
Got a CTR 6.5 20" on the way. What are you guys with 20" barrels seeing with velocity using factory ammo (Prime, Hornady 140eld)?
 
Lunchbox27 said:
Got a CTR 6.5 20" on the way. What are you guys with 20" barrels seeing with velocity using factory ammo (Prime, Hornady 140eld)?
Click to expand...
I was getting 2670 with Prime 130's in my 20'' ctr. I am getting 2835 with the same ammo in my 24'' ctr, 40 fps a inch between my two ctr's.
 
HoustonB77 said:
You are getting a lot more than I am. Im getting just under 2600 with the 130 weight factory hornady.
Click to expand...

I believe that Hornady isn't so temp stable. When I went and tested the ammo, the velocities increased as the temperature went up which was a significant shift here in North tx. My ES was 65, so take that info for what it's worth.
 
New to long range shooting and just bought the new (here in NZ) TX3 CTR with longer barrel, seems 22" verses the original 20". It's in 6.5mm Creedmoor. Just mounted the Vortex Viper 6-24x50 FFP EBR-2C on Leupold PRW steel rings. I hope this girl shoots straight!

Are the rings up to task or should I seek the Vortex precision rings when they're available?

Sorry about the postage stamp sized photos. That's all I was allowed to upload :/
 

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I thought you boys might appreciate my first Tikka build (308 Win). It is very quickly becoming my favorite! Bring on MI whitetail season!

I managed to score a original CTR in stainless which saved me a bit of cash. And I since I was planning a stock upgrade anyway, no harm and no foul. The only other thing I did was upgrade the bolt shroud to aluminum.

This Boyd's At-One is amazingly light for a laminated stock. It is because the stock is heavily trimmed down to allow fitment of all the interchangeable plastic. I went ahead and skim-bedded it after installing a stainless steel recoil lug. I have never bedded a Tikka before. The recoil lug is a bit of a challenge IMO.

Anyway, enjoy my redneck version of the original Tikka Sport!

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glock24 said:
I thought you boys might appreciate my first Tikka build (308 Win). It is very quickly becoming my favorite! Bring on MI whitetail season!

I managed to score a original CTR in stainless which saved me a bit of cash. And I since I was planning a stock upgrade anyway, no harm and no foul. The only other thing I did was upgrade the bolt shroud to aluminum.

This Boyd's At-One is amazingly light for a laminated stock. It is because the stock is heavily trimmed down to allow fitment of all the interchangeable plastic. I went ahead and skim-bedded it after installing a stainless steel recoil lug. I have never bedded a Tikka before. The recoil lug is a bit of a challenge IMO.

Anway, enjoy my redneck version of the original Tikka Sport!





Click to expand...

That is very nice looking. May not qualify for red neck. I like it!
 
glock24 said:
I thought you boys might appreciate my first Tikka build (308 Win). It is very quickly becoming my favorite! Bring on MI whitetail season!

I managed to score a original CTR in stainless which saved me a bit of cash. And I since I was planning a stock upgrade anyway, no harm and no foul. The only other thing I did was upgrade the bolt shroud to aluminum.

This Boyd's At-One is amazingly light for a laminated stock. It is because the stock is heavily trimmed down to allow fitment of all the interchangeable plastic. I went ahead and skim-bedded it after installing a stainless steel recoil lug. I have never bedded a Tikka before. The recoil lug is a bit of a challenge IMO.

Anyway, enjoy my redneck version of the original Tikka Sport!
Click to expand...

Dude! That looks Killer! Curious to hear how it shoots in the new stock. Seems to pack in a ton of features for <$200. Very cool.
 
Anyone have any issues fitting a KRG X-Ray with a T3x in 223? This is my first chassis and I'm at a loss. In order to get the mag to fit the screws for the for end ar about 3/8 off. If I line them up with the holes in the backbone there is no way the mag fits. Using an accurate mag so it should fit based on everything I have read.
 
Looks like it's one of these from what he said. [video]http://atonegunstocks.com[/video] done by boyds.
Sponge it kooks like they are inserts because they are interchangeable.
Looks like the stock is ~$189ish. Comes with traditional grip and fore end. Vertical grip and target fore end sold separately.
Also looks to be available left handed. :)

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Finally got my CTR put together. Man, Tikka either needs to start shipping these with 20moa rails or no rail at all. I stripped one screw with barely any force.m had to use a dremel with a cutting blade to cut down into the rail to the screw to make a slot for a flat head. Came out after that, but had to heat the rail with a torch to get it off after that. Also had to sand down the barrel channel 3" out to free float. Cannot wait for Greyboe to release their Tikka inlet, feels like im holding a broom stick compared to my other rifles. That said, smooth action, love the trigger! Cannot wait to get some rounds on her.
 
Hey Fellers,

Sorry for the delay. I've been out shooting my new Tikka!

As others have mentioned, this At-One model stock is from Boyd's Gunstocks. The forend, grip and bottom of the stock are plastic, and they screw onto the stock via cap-head screws and some T-nuts embedded into the hardwood. If you were to remove these pieces, the stock is significantly milled away to allow fitment. I think that is why the stock is so light.

The standard forend that came with stock is plastic. The target forend I purchased separately (shown in pics) is a rubber covered plastic.

The standard grip that came with the stock is plastic. The target grip panels are available in both plastic and rubber-covered plastic

The bottom piece on the stock is plastic

The cheek-piece is also a rubber covered plastic which I really like. My face stays where it should even when I'm sweating.

Let me know if I can answer anything further

 
JC98 said:
Anyone have any issues fitting a KRG X-Ray with a T3x in 223? This is my first chassis and I'm at a loss. In order to get the mag to fit the screws for the for end ar about 3/8 off. If I line them up with the holes in the backbone there is no way the mag fits. Using an accurate mag so it should fit based on everything I have read.
Click to expand...

I have a T3X Varmint 223 in the X-Ray. In order for my Accurate Mag to fit, I have to place the front lip of the magazine in first.
 
Took the Tikka to a local match over the weekend and managed second place. Rifle never had any malfunctions and is a sweet shooter! Looking forward to running it through another match this weekend! Third place also was taken with a tikka.

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snarkscarbine said:
I have purchased them anywhere between $125-175 for the whole package. Most people start around 250, and then sell it for $150 or so after 6 months of price drops.
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Any idea if those Tikka Bolt Stops are going to be back in stock anytime soon?
 
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Been a while since I've been on here mines now swapped from a sfp atacr to the razor gen 2 after seeing how big a handicap sfp and moa was at my first prs match earlier this year. This gun shoot lights out and has never had a problem. This is my first tikka and I've been so impressed I've recommended them to everyone I talk to that's not wanting to drop big money on a custom action


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Also are any of y'all on the current sterk order? I ordered a new handle almost 2 months ago and he was super nice said they'd be done in 2-3 weeks and he'd get with me for payment. Haven't heard a word back and he hasn't posted on his Facebook since march just wondering if something happened


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