Tikka T3 Thread

CJC73

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I think I know this answer but want to verify.

I have a Tikka action that I'm using to build a 25SST . The action came from a 7mag, so set up for long action. I'll probably replace the bolt stop with a short action one since I won't need the length. I'm looking for stocks and wondering about the factory bottom piece; the bottom can accept either a short or long action magazine, correct? I won't need the length so I'd like to run the short.

Also, anyone use the Mtn Tactical billet mags? Do they fit a magnum size case in the short action, 25SST is based off the SAUM case. And what COAL they allow, will need about 2.92" at the most. A stock set up for a CTR is also a possibility.
 

Sokam101

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You could go to a match and see what others are using and that can give you a reference to what you may like or prefer. Or just get a KRG Bravo and add things to it like an Arca rail or spigot. You will probably need a 20 MOA rail unless you already did that.

If you can afford an MDT ACC, those are great for PRS, some like Masterpiece Arms. Lots of choices.
Perfect thank you! I'm going to ro a final. I doubt I'll see many tikkas.

How well do each of them resell?
 

patriotnation

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Perfect thank you! I'm going to ro a final. I doubt I'll see many tikkas.

How well do each of them resell?
There are many stocks and chassis that fit Tikkas, so the guns and chassis you look at do not necessarily have to be Tikka receivers. MDT or KRG, there are more, you can google them and find a whole bunch. I'm sure they are mentioned in this thread. I have an MDT ACC and it can be versatile for me by adding and taking away or moving weights. Heavy guns manage recoil the best.

There is always someone who will buy stuff.

good luck
 

Sokam101

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There are many stocks and chassis that fit Tikkas, so the guns and chassis you look at do not necessarily have to be Tikka receivers. MDT or KRG, there are more, you can google them and find a whole bunch. I'm sure they are mentioned in this thread. I have an MDT ACC and it can be versatile for me by adding and taking away or moving weights. Heavy guns manage recoil the best.

There is always someone who will buy stuff.

good luck
Thank you for the info. I'll try to find some thing used!
 

Tunnuh

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Do any chassis fit the tikka short action and the rem 700 short action?

If they do, then work has been done to the action(s) because one has a recoil lug at the face of the receiver and the other utilizes one in the stock. I would get a KRG Bravo if you like a conventional stock feel. I have a mcrees g10. It works fine. Both take the ctr mags if you specify that option. I like the spigot for the krg though. Resale is not the best on anything during normal times. It's 2020, so take that fwiw.
 

LeftyJason

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    Do any chassis fit the tikka short action and the rem 700 short action?
    They are different cuts.

    1 specific chassis that you put a Tikka in, take it out and try to put a 700 in? No.

    Having a chassis that fits a Tikka that you could also get that same chassis for a 700 (2 seperate chassis)? Yes.

    For example krg Bravo. Can be gotten for Tikka with AICS, Tikka with ctr, Remington 700 sa, 700 LA, or howa 1500. That is 5 different chassis. The 2 tikkas can take the same barreled action. Others only fit that action. Externally they are all krg Bravo.
     

    UpSideDown

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    I have a KRG Bravo with a Tikka CTR in it that I might be selling (the Bravo). The Bravo is way too good for the money. I just feel like putting this gun in a traditional stock and building a second gun in a chassis.
     

    LeftyJason

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    do you have to pay for shipping when ordering from sterk?
    its like me asking if i have to pay for shipping when ordering from outside australia
    i had to pay shipping to get mine to the next state from John :ROFLMAO:
    Yes, but it's cheaper buying from him than from the US suppliers
    Also you are supporting a fellow Hider who does beautiful work. @cannoncrossfire

    BTW why does it seem like I'm always @ ing you in?
     

    slickalaus12

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    its like me asking if i have to pay for shipping when ordering from outside australia
    i had to pay shipping to get mine to the next state from John :ROFLMAO:
    haha well some guys just raise their price a bit and bake in the shipping costs so they can offer "free" shipping. glad to support someone making some awesome products!
     

    Cclary60

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    I shot my 6.5 creed Tikka T3 build for the first time today.
    Some observations:
    - The bolt is insanely smooth.
    - The ejector HURLS brass 10 feet.
    - I am not a KRG Bravo fan.
    - I like my precision bolt guns with a blind magazine.
    - Shot about a 1.3” group at 100 yards with the cheapest ammunition I could find.

    Anyone want a New KRG Bravo chassis with enclosed forend and tons of extras for a good price?
     

    UpSideDown

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    I shot my 6.5 creed Tikka T3 build for the first time today.
    Some observations:
    - The bolt is insanely smooth.
    - The ejector HURLS brass 10 feet.
    - I am not a KRG Bravo fan.
    - I like my precision bolt guns with a blind magazine.
    - Shot about a 1.3” group at 100 yards with the cheapest ammunition I could find.

    Anyone want a New KRG Bravo chassis with enclosed forend and tons of extras for a good price?
    Yes, yes, yes, disgusting, stop being poor.

    The Bravo is like a dead Slovakian hooker. It still does what you paid it to do, it feels better than it should, but at the end of the day it has no soul and you don’t really want to show it to your friends.
     

    YotaEer

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    I’ve recently cut my CTR Barrel down to 17.5” to save some weight/length after adding a sico omega. Problem is, the “slow” tikka barrel just got slower. Only getting about 2500 FPS with 140gr factory stuff and suppressor on.

    Thus, I am looking for an upgraded barrel. Either a carbon/smaller profile barrel in 20” or an 18” barrel in roughly the same profile as the CTR.

    I’ve checked out PVA, carbon 6 and preferred. Any other options or recommendations?
     
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    Shane431

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    I’ve recently cut my CTR Barrel down to 17.5” to save some weight/length after adding a sico omega. Problem is, the “slow” tikka barrel just got slower. Only getting about 2500 FPS with 140gr factory stuff and suppressor on.

    Thus, I am looking for an upgraded barrel. Either a carbon/smaller profile barrel in 20” or an 18” barrel in roughly the same profile as the CTR.

    I’ve checked out PVA, carbon 6 and preferred. Any other options or recommendations?

    I've done a quite a bit of looking at pre-fits for Tikkas. The safe bet in my book is PVA. Although if you're looking for a barrel on a hunting rifle I'd recommend Proof. I have a Proof 22" 6.5 CM that shoots 2865 fps with some mild loads.
     
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    YotaEer

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    I've done a quite a bit of looking at pre-fits for Tikkas. The safe bet in my book is PVA. Although if you're looking for a barrel on a hunting rifle I'd recommend Proof. I have a Proof 22" 6.5 CM that shoots 2865 fps with some mild loads.

    It is a mix of hunting and target. Probably true 50/50. Hunting is groundhogs and whitetails. Shooting steel out to 700 max.

    I have reached out to Tim at Solid Accuracy/Criterion as I've heard good things about them as well. Thank you for the feedback!
     

    Colfmas97

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    Has anyone on here had their t3x long action ejection port milled for loads with COAL at or around 3.600” ...I have a 300wm that hammers the Berger 180g elite hunters but only when I put them about .010 off the lands...when I finally got them to feed reliably by modifying the feed ramp with a dremel, I realized that if I don’t fire the load I can’t eject the cartridge without pulling the bolt past the bolt stop.....not the greatest for hunting rifle.

    I’m running Atlas bottom metal with a MDT aics pattern magazine and I had to dremel the front of the trigger to get the magazine to seat...after that without modifying the feed lips of the mdt Mag the Berger’s would catch the front of the chamber of the barrel🤬and also the cartridges hit the bottom of the bolt head when shoving the magazine in with bolt all the way open. I’ve got it to feed ok but I hate ok. Has anyone else noticed any of these issues?
     

    UpSideDown

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    Has anyone on here had their t3x long action ejection port milled for loads with COAL at or around 3.600” ...I have a 300wm that hammers the Berger 180g elite hunters but only when I put them about .010 off the lands...when I finally got them to feed reliably by modifying the feed ramp with a dremel, I realized that if I don’t fire the load I can’t eject the cartridge without pulling the bolt past the bolt stop.....not the greatest for hunting rifle.

    I’m running Atlas bottom metal with a MDT aics pattern magazine and I had to dremel the front of the trigger to get the magazine to seat...after that without modifying the feed lips of the mdt Mag the Berger’s would catch the front of the chamber of the barrel🤬and also the cartridges hit the bottom of the bolt head when shoving the magazine in with bolt all the way open. I’ve got it to feed ok but I hate ok. Has anyone else noticed any of these issues?
    Just use the bolt stop and pull the bolt back until the round comes out.

    I don't know about the round hitting the bolt.
     

    Colfmas97

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    Just use the bolt stop and pull the bolt back until the round comes out.

    I don't know about the round hitting the bolt.

    I believe the case hitting the bolt is because atlas bottom metal is the longest coal bottom metal for tikka t3x right now and it’s just cut out a hair to far towards the trigger. So if your case is comingup the magazine just right the case hits the bolt a bit until I give it a smack...its most likely just my personal rifle but man it’s all so tight for room. I’ll figure out something sooner or later that works better.
     

    JGR1953

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    I believe the case hitting the bolt is because atlas bottom metal is the longest coal bottom metal for tikka t3x right now and it’s just cut out a hair to far towards the trigger. So if your case is comingup the magazine just right the case hits the bolt a bit until I give it a smack...its most likely just my personal rifle but man it’s all so tight for room. I’ll figure out something sooner or later that works better.
    Have you tried trimming the bolt stop back some to see if it will give you the clearance you need ?
     

    LeftyJason

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    Finally got my Tikka! It's my first centerfire bolt gun. Bought it from Scheels on Saturday and got pictures of it today. Took me 3.5 years to get because I kept raiding my gun fund for other gun stuff (10/22, tbac22, razor 2, a better savage 22lr, atlas bipod). I even bought a case of prime 130's for it 11 months ago. Been nice to get the parts over the years cause I can now use it all together.

    Tikka jrtxb482 lefty stainless t3x lite 6.5 creed
    Vortex razor 2 4.5-27x56 7c mil in vortex precision rings (used off the hide)
    Murphy tactical 20moa titanium rail
    Caldwell sling adapter, rrs sc-lr, rrs atlas adapter spacer, atlas cal gen 2 no dye (thanks @Kasey)
    20200929140948_IMG_1169.JPG20200929135729_IMG_1160.JPG20200929140424_IMG_1165.JPG
    My dog Daisy decided to help with pictures.

    Going to keep it in the tupperware for now til I can get a good chassis.

    Haven't shot it yet but will soon.
     

    LeftyJason

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    Will also be upgrading it with a Sterk shroud at some point too. Probably a gen 2 or trg style. Haven't decided yet. Not sure what I want for bolt handle yet. Never tried anything with a swept handle or any other style of aftermarket handle.

    I might as well go with Sterk after ating in @cannoncrossfire so much over the years. His are the best looking.
     
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    keenedge

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    Q for fellow Tikka T3x Lite owners: Is it worth upgrading bottom metal to the Atlasworxs AICS? I was surprised they actually have a drop-in AICS DBM that works in the Lite versions.


    I'm curious about the fit and reliability of this DBM, esp feeding reliability. Also trying to think through whether it's even really worth adding AICS bottom metal to this rifle, given it's a light hunting rifle in the synthetic factory stock. I'll rarely if ever use 10rd AICS mags. You can already get 5rd factory mags, and they are perfectly reliable in my experience. Also the DBM will add more weight. But bottom line, the compatibility with AICS and ability to use my other mags is nice.

    What says the wisdom of the collective?
     

    UpSideDown

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    I’d run the factory mags in a factory stock. If i bought a Manners stock with a factory inlet I would buy the AICS bottom metal, if the Manners stock didn’t come with a mini chassis (which has the AICS bottom metal integrated into it).
     

    cannoncrossfire

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    @keenedge it is not a drop in part - that bottom metal says 'Inletting is required which is recommended to be done by a competent and qualified person.'
    A factory tikka CTR has a bigger bottom metal inlet that will allow for bottom metals using CTR or AICS magazine sizes.
    A factory Tikka lite/hunter/varmint/etc that uses the plastic tikka magazines will need some material removed/inletted to allow for a bottom metal using CTR or AICS magazines.
     

    Northernjets

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    @keenedge it is not a drop in part - that bottom metal says 'Inletting is required which is recommended to be done by a competent and qualified person.'
    A factory tikka CTR has a bigger bottom metal inlet that will allow for bottom metals using CTR or AICS magazine sizes.
    A factory Tikka lite/hunter/varmint/etc that uses the plastic tikka magazines will need some material removed/inletted to allow for a bottom metal using CTR or AICS magazines.

    My recent experience playing with a ctr and lite stock reflect this as well. The plastic bottom "metal" from the non-tactical Tikkas are narrower than the CTR bottom metal. It'll take more than just some Dremel/file work to properly inlet one into the factory stocks.

    I dropped my lite into a CTR stock and bottom metal for the larger trigger guard since I'll be wearing winter gloves. Biggest draw back is adding ~0.5lbs extra to the rifle vs the plastic mag.
     
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    keenedge

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    @keenedge it is not a drop in part - that bottom metal says 'Inletting is required which is recommended to be done by a competent and qualified person.'
    A factory tikka CTR has a bigger bottom metal inlet that will allow for bottom metals using CTR or AICS magazine sizes.
    A factory Tikka lite/hunter/varmint/etc that uses the plastic tikka magazines will need some material removed/inletted to allow for a bottom metal using CTR or AICS magazines.

    Is it worth adding the AICS to a hunting rifle just for mag compatibility? Wondering if maybe it actually enhances feed reliability and reduces 'flex', which I've noticed sometimes with the all-plastic OEM setup?

    As for weight, not that bad, total weight about 4.5oz, so net increase over factory plastic guard only around 3 to 4oz.
     

    Daherc

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    I’m apparently very late to join this Tikka T3 thread. I just got my Tikka T3x built this past Spring. And I do love this rifle. It started out as a new 6.5CM and was rebarreled with a light varmint 8.5 to 7.5 gain twist Bartlein 6.5 Creedmoor barrel. Then I dropped it into a McMillan A5 with CTR bottom metal. It shoots every kind of 140gr pill very well.

    I have since added the Area 419 Arca Rail and changed over to a muzzle brake rather than the suppressor.

    It is topped with a Gen II Razor in Vortex PMR rings and a 30 moa base.
     

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    brad.allen7

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    I’m apparently very late to join this Tikka T3 thread. I just got my Tikka T3x built this past Spring. And I do love this rifle. It started out as a new 6.5CM and was rebarreled with a light varmint 8.5 to 7.5 gain twist Bartlein 6.5 Creedmoor barrel. Then I dropped it into a McMillan A5 with CTR bottom metal. It shoots every kind of 140gr pill very well.

    I have since added the Area 419 Arca Rail and changed over to a muzzle brake rather than the suppressor.

    It is topped with a Gen II Razor in Vortex PMR rings and a 30 moa base.
    That thing is absolutely beautiful. I actually just bought a Vortex Razor Gen II today and I have a T3x CTR SS arriving on Friday. I'm super excited. Hope it's a shooter.
     
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    Triggerf16

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    I’m looking for Tikka T3x prefit barrels in 20 cal. Specifically 20 VarTarg. Anyone know of a source for chambered barrels? Preferably a shouldered prefit?

    Thanks
    Follow-up from my previous post. Preferred Barrel Blanks is now doing 20 cal barrels. They will do a prefit 20 Vartarg for a Tikka. Ordered.

    I’m going to build a magazine holder that will allow my to fit a CZ527 221 Fireball magazine into the CTR mag well. The CZ mag will hold and feed the Fireball/VarTarg case properly, and the holder will allow it to locate and lock into the CTR magwell correctly. The Tikka T3x 223 bolt face will feed and eject the case properly. I think this project will produce a nice repeater. Goal is an accurate rifle between 223 and 22LR. CFE BLK powder, Lapua 221 Fireball brass, Sierra 32 and 39gr BlitzKings, 1:11” twist 22” barrel. Pics to follow in 2 months when the barrel arrives.
     
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    Daherc

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    That thing is absolutely beautiful. I actually just bought a Vortex Razor Gen II today and I have a T3x CTR SS arriving on Friday. I'm super excited. Hope it's a shooter.
    The Razor Gen II and CTR will make a great combo. Will you be hand loading for that rifle? If so, it should really perform well.
     

    LeftyJason

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    No I do not plan on handloading. I’m hoping it’ll shoot ELD’s well or any other factory load. We’ll see. Actually picking the rifle up today.
    Having read all 168 pages of this thread, it is highly unlikely that it won't be a shooter. Your skills might not be able to run it to its full potential at this point (I know mine aren't and I haven't shot mine yet) but that doesn't mean the gun can't do it.
     
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    bgavin

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    No I do not plan on handloading. I’m hoping it’ll shoot ELD’s well or any other factory load. We’ll see. Actually picking the rifle up today.

    140 eld’s have shot great In mine and two other friends.
    Berger 130 hybrids were even better. I would give them a try plus you get lapua brass to save in case you ever start reloading.